Free Knitting Pattern: Heart Full of Love Pillow
There’s something uniquely satisfying about finishing a handmade pillow. You hold it up, fluff it a little, and think — yes, I made that. And when the pillow features a heart design, it carries a kind of warmth that no store-bought decor can replicate. Whether you’re knitting one for your own living room, as a wedding gift, a Valentine’s Day surprise, or simply to practice your colorwork skills, this Heart Full of Love Pillow is the kind of project that feels meaningful from the very first cast-on.
This free knitting pattern is written for intermediate knitters, though adventurous beginners who are comfortable with basic stitches and a little colorwork will find it approachable too. We’ll walk through everything — yarn, needles, gauge, pattern notes, and the full stitch-by-stitch instructions — so you can jump right in without hunting for extra information elsewhere.
Let’s get cozy and get started.
Why You’ll Love This Knitting Project
Before we dive into the pattern itself, let’s talk about why this pillow is worth your time. Pillow covers are one of the most versatile things you can knit. They’re not too large to feel overwhelming, they knit up relatively quickly, and they make your home look like it was styled by someone with very good taste and even better hobbies.
The heart motif on this pillow uses simple intarsia or stranded colorwork techniques, depending on your preference, to create a classic, centered heart against a contrasting background. The result is clean, bold, and timeless. You can make it romantic in deep red and cream, playful in blush pink and white, rustic in burgundy and oatmeal, or modern in black and dusty rose. The design adapts to your color story.
This pattern also makes an excellent stash-buster. If you’ve been accumulating partial skeins of worsted weight yarn in complementary colors, this is your perfect excuse to put them to use.
Materials You’ll Need
Gathering your materials before you cast on makes the whole experience more enjoyable. Here’s what you’ll need for a finished pillow cover measuring approximately 16 by 16 inches, which fits a standard 16-inch pillow insert.
Yarn: Approximately 200 yards of Color A (background color) and 100 yards of Color B (heart color), both in worsted weight yarn. Choose a yarn with a little structure — 100% wool, wool blends, or cotton-acrylic blends all work beautifully. Avoid very slippery yarns for your first attempt, as they can make colorwork trickier to manage.
Needles: US size 7 (4.5mm) straight or circular knitting needles. If you prefer to knit in the round to avoid seaming, use a 24-inch circular needle of the same size.
Notions: Two stitch markers, a tapestry needle for weaving in ends, scissors, and a pillow insert measuring 16 inches by 16 inches. You’ll also want a few buttons or a zipper if you’d like a closeable back, though this pattern uses an envelope closure for simplicity.
Gauge: 18 stitches and 24 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch. Always, always swatch. Gauge determines the final size of your pillow cover, and a couple of stitches off can mean the difference between a pillow that fits snugly and one that sags or stretches.
A Note on Colorwork Technique
The heart motif in this pattern is worked using a simple intarsia approach, meaning you’ll use separate lengths of yarn for the heart section rather than carrying both colors all the way across every row. This avoids long floats on the back and gives the fabric a cleaner finish.
If you prefer stranded colorwork and are comfortable managing floats, that works too — just be mindful to keep your floats loose so the fabric doesn’t pucker.
When switching colors in intarsia, always twist the old yarn around the new yarn on the wrong side to prevent holes. This little step makes all the difference in your finished fabric.
Understanding the Heart Chart
The heart motif is charted on a grid of 30 stitches wide by 26 rows tall. Each square on the chart represents one stitch. Color A is the background, and Color B is the heart.
Rather than printing a chart here (which doesn’t always translate well into blog format), the heart is worked following the written instructions row by row below. If you prefer a visual chart, you can easily plot these instructions onto knitter’s graph paper or use a free online chart tool like Stitch Fiddle.
The heart is centered on a front panel of 72 stitches, placed beginning on Row 20 from the cast-on edge, giving it a visually balanced position on the finished pillow.
The Pattern
Abbreviations
CO — cast on
BO — bind off
k — knit
p — purl
RS — right side
WS — wrong side
st(s) — stitch(es)
rep — repeat
CA — Color A
CB — Color B
pm — place marker
sm — slip marker
Front Panel
Cast on: Using CA and your preferred cast-on method (long-tail is recommended for a clean, elastic edge), CO 72 stitches.
Rows 1–4 (Garter Border): Knit every row. This creates a neat garter stitch border along the bottom edge of your pillow front.
Row 5 (RS): K3 (border sts), pm, k66, pm, k3 (border sts).
Row 6 (WS): K3, sm, p66, sm, k3.
Continue working in this manner — knitting the 3 border stitches on each side every row and working the center 66 stitches in stockinette — until your piece measures 4 inches from the cast-on edge, ending with a WS row.
You are now ready to begin the heart motif.
Heart Motif
The heart is centered in the 66-stitch panel. It begins 18 stitches in from the left marker and spans 30 stitches. To orient yourself: on every RS row, you’ll work 18 stitches in CA, then 30 stitches following the heart instructions, then 18 stitches in CA. On WS rows, directions are reversed.
Prepare a separate length of CB yarn for the heart section before beginning. Wind it into a small butterfly bobbin if you have one — it keeps things tidy and tangle-free.
Heart Row 1 (RS): K3 CA (border), sm, k18 CA, join CB: k1, drop CB, k29 CA, sm, k3 CA.
Heart Row 2 (WS): K3 CA, sm, p29 CA, pick up CB: p1 CB, drop CB, p17 CA, sm, k3 CA.
Heart Row 3 (RS): K3 CA, sm, k16 CA, join CB: k2, k1 CA (1 st gap), k2 CB, drop CB, k27 CA, sm, k3 CA.
Heart Row 4 (WS): K3 CA, sm, p26 CA, CB: p3, p2 CA, p2 CB, p15 CA, sm, k3 CA.
Heart Row 5 (RS): K3 CA, sm, k13 CA, CB: k5, k1 CA, k5 CB, drop CB, k24 CA, sm, k3 CA.
Heart Row 6 (WS): K3 CA, sm, p22 CA, CB: p6, p3 CA, p5 CB, p12 CA, sm, k3 CA.
Heart Row 7 (RS): K3 CA, sm, k10 CA, CB: k7, k3 CA, k7 CB, k21 CA, sm, k3 CA.
Heart Row 8 (WS): K3 CA, sm, p19 CA, CB: p8, p5 CA, p7 CB, p9 CA, sm, k3 CA.
Heart Row 9 (RS): K3 CA, sm, k8 CA, CB: k8, k5 CA, k9 CB, k18 CA, sm, k3 CA.
Heart Row 10 (WS): K3 CA, sm, p16 CA, CB: p10, p7 CA, p8 CB, p7 CA, sm, k3 CA.
Heart Row 11 (RS): K3 CA, sm, k6 CA, CB: k9, k7 CA, k10 CB, k15 CA, sm, k3 CA.
Heart Row 12 (WS): K3 CA, sm, p13 CA, CB: p11, p9 CA, p9 CB, p5 CA, sm, k3 CA.
At this point you’ve established the two rounded humps at the top of the heart. The next rows will bring the two sides together as the heart tapers downward into its point.
Heart Row 13 (RS): K3 CA, sm, k5 CA, CB: k30, k14 CA, sm, k3 CA.
Heart Row 14 (WS): K3 CA, sm, p12 CA, CB: p30, p6 CA, sm, k3 CA.
Heart Row 15 (RS): K3 CA, sm, k6 CA, CB: k28, k14 CA, sm, k3 CA.
Heart Row 16 (WS): K3 CA, sm, p13 CA, CB: p26, p7 CA, sm, k3 CA.
Heart Row 17 (RS): K3 CA, sm, k8 CA, CB: k24, k16 CA, sm, k3 CA.
Heart Row 18 (WS): K3 CA, sm, p15 CA, CB: p22, p9 CA, sm, k3 CA.
Heart Row 19 (RS): K3 CA, sm, k10 CA, CB: k20, k18 CA, sm, k3 CA.
Heart Row 20 (WS): K3 CA, sm, p17 CA, CB: p18, p11 CA, sm, k3 CA.
Heart Row 21 (RS): K3 CA, sm, k12 CA, CB: k16, k20 CA, sm, k3 CA.
Heart Row 22 (WS): K3 CA, sm, p19 CA, CB: p14, p13 CA, sm, k3 CA.
Heart Row 23 (RS): K3 CA, sm, k14 CA, CB: k12, k22 CA, sm, k3 CA.
Heart Row 24 (WS): K3 CA, sm, p21 CA, CB: p10, p15 CA, sm, k3 CA.
Heart Row 25 (RS): K3 CA, sm, k17 CA, CB: k6, k25 CA, sm, k3 CA.
Heart Row 26 (WS): K3 CA, sm, p24 CA, CB: p4, p18 CA, sm, k3 CA.
The heart point is almost complete. The next two rows close it to a single stitch and then finish it off entirely.
Heart Row 27 (RS): K3 CA, sm, k20 CA, CB: k2, k28 CA, sm, k3 CA.
Heart Row 28 (WS): K3 CA, sm, p27 CA, CB: p1, p21 CA, sm, k3 CA.
Heart Row 29 (RS): K3 CA, sm, k66 CA, sm, k3 CA. (Heart complete — cut CB, leaving a 6-inch tail to weave in.)
Continuing the Front Panel
After completing the heart motif, continue working in stockinette (knit RS, purl WS, maintaining 3-stitch garter borders on each side) until the front panel measures 15.5 inches from the cast-on edge, ending with a WS row.
Final Garter Border: Knit 4 rows. BO all stitches loosely knitwise.
Set the front panel aside and weave in all ends using your tapestry needle before seaming.
Back Panel (Envelope Closure)
The envelope closure is a practical and elegant finishing technique that allows you to remove and wash the pillow cover easily. You’ll knit two back panels that overlap in the center.
Back Panel A: CO 72 stitches with CA. Work in garter stitch (knit every row) for 6 rows, then continue in stockinette with 3-stitch garter borders (same as front) until this panel measures 10.5 inches from the cast-on edge. End with a WS row and BO loosely.
Back Panel B: CO 72 stitches with CA. Work in garter stitch for 6 rows, then continue in stockinette with 3-stitch garter borders until this panel measures 10.5 inches from the cast-on edge. End with a WS row and BO loosely.
The two back panels will overlap by approximately 5 inches at the center when seamed.
Finishing and Seaming
Block all three pieces before seaming. Wet blocking works especially well for this project — soak your pieces in cool water, gently squeeze out excess (don’t wring), and lay flat to dry, pinning to measurements if needed. Blocking evens out any tension inconsistencies and gives your colorwork a beautifully professional finish.
Once dry, lay your front panel right-side up. Place Back Panel A on top, right-side down, aligning the top and side edges. Place Back Panel B on top of that, right-side down, aligning the bottom and side edges. The panels will overlap at the center back.
Using a tapestry needle and a length of CA yarn, seam all four sides using mattress stitch or whip stitch, working through all layers where the back panels overlap. Turn the cover right-side out through the envelope opening, ease in your pillow insert, and enjoy.
Customizing Your Heart Full of Love Pillow
One of the best things about a simple, well-structured pattern like this is how easily it adapts to different visions. Here are a few ideas for making this pillow uniquely yours.
If you want a more textured heart, try working the heart section in reverse stockinette (purl on RS, knit on WS) against a stockinette background using the same color. The subtle dimensional difference creates a tonal heart that catches the light beautifully — quiet, sophisticated, and unexpectedly stunning.
For a more dramatic look, switch the colorwork so your background is the bold, saturated color and your heart is worked in cream, white, or a light neutral. This creates a pop-of-color pillow that anchors a sofa or reading chair with real personality.
You can also personalize the border treatment. The simple garter stitch border here is clean and unfussy, but you could easily substitute a seed stitch border (k1, p1 alternating) or even a narrow ribbed border for a different texture around the edge of the pillow face.
If you’re making this as a gift, consider embroidering a small initial or date in duplicate stitch above or below the heart after you’ve finished knitting. Duplicate stitch is a beautiful way to add a personal detail without having to manage extra bobbins of yarn mid-project.
Tips for Knitting Success
A few practical notes to help your project go smoothly from start to finish.
Swatch before you start. We mentioned it once, and we’ll mention it again, because gauge really does matter when you’re making a cover that needs to fit a specific insert. A 16-inch pillow cover knit at the wrong gauge might end up 13 inches or 19 inches, and neither of those is what you want.
Keep your intarsia bobbins or yarn lengths organized. Tangle management is one of the trickier parts of intarsia colorwork. Winding your CB yarn into a small bobbin or butterfly before you begin will save you significant frustration.
Don’t pull your floats too tight. If you’re using stranded colorwork instead of intarsia, make sure your yarn floats on the back remain loose enough to allow the fabric to stretch. Spreading your stitches out on the right needle before
