Myrella Witch Fairy Crochet Doll Pattern | Enchanting Halloween Amigurumi

There is something undeniably magical about creating a handmade doll from scratch. When you pick up your crochet hook and a skein of yarn, you are not just working a craft — you are bringing a character to life, stitch by stitch. Myrella the Witch Fairy is one of those characters who practically demands to exist. She is a little enchantress with gossamer wings, a tilted pointy hat, a miniature broomstick, and a swishing layered skirt that makes her look ready to dart off across a harvest moon. Whether you are making her as a Halloween decoration, a gift for a child who loves fairy tales, or a treasured piece of amigurumi art for your own shelf, this pattern is designed to walk you through every detail so you can crochet her with confidence.

This post includes full instructions, helpful tips, yarn and hook guidance, and finishing notes. Settle in, brew something warm, and let’s conjure Myrella together.

About Myrella and the Inspiration Behind the Pattern

Amigurumi witches have been a Halloween staple in the crochet community for years, but Myrella was born from the idea of merging two beloved archetypes — the ethereal fairy and the mysterious witch. She has the delicate build and winged silhouette of a fairy but carries all the classic witch accessories: a wide-brimmed hat, a star-tipped wand, and just the right amount of dramatic flair in her outfit.

She stands approximately 28 to 32 centimeters tall when finished, making her a substantial display piece. Her wings are worked flat with a slightly stiffened finish so they hold their shape, and her hat can be left floppy for a whimsical look or lightly stuffed for a more structured silhouette. Her skirt is worked in layers with two different yarns to create texture and movement, giving her that signature fairy witch aesthetic.

Materials You Will Need

Before you begin, gather everything you need so you can work without interruption.

Yarn:
Myrella calls for a combination of yarn weights to get her textured look. For her body, head, arms, and legs, use a DK weight (size 3) yarn in your chosen skin tone. For her dress and hat, use the same DK weight in black or deep purple — or try a rich forest green for a slightly more unexpected look. For her skirt overlay and wing accents, a lightweight fingering or lace weight yarn in silver, lilac, or midnight blue adds that fairy shimmer. If you want extra magic, look for a sparkle or metallic blend yarn for her skirt and wings. About 150 to 200 grams of your main color DK yarn and 50 to 75 grams of the accent yarn should be more than enough.

Hook:
A 2.5 mm hook for the body and head gives a tight gauge that keeps the stuffing from showing through. For the skirt overlay and wings, move up to a 3.0 or 3.5 mm hook, which creates a slightly more open, airy fabric that suits those elements beautifully.

Other Supplies:
You will need polyfill stuffing, a yarn needle for seaming and weaving in ends, black safety eyes in 10 mm or 12 mm, wire or pipe cleaners for wing structure (optional but recommended), fabric stiffener or a simple cornstarch and water solution for the wings, a small amount of blush for rosy cheeks, a black embroidery floss or felt for eyebrow detail, a small dowel or wooden skewer for the broomstick, thin twine or raffia for the broom bristles, and stitch markers.

Gauge:
Working in magic ring and spiraling rounds with your 2.5 mm hook and DK yarn, aim for approximately 6 stitches and 6 rows per 2.5 centimeters in single crochet. Gauge affects the final size of Myrella, so if your tension is naturally loose or tight, adjust your hook size accordingly.

Abbreviations and Stitch Guide

This pattern uses US crochet terminology.

MR — magic ring
sc — single crochet
inc — increase (2 sc in same stitch)
dec — decrease (invisible decrease worked over 2 stitches)
dc — double crochet
hdc — half double crochet
sl st — slip stitch
ch — chain
BLO — back loop only
FLO — front loop only
st(s) — stitch(es)
rnd — round
rep — repeat
pm — place marker

Part One: The Head

Begin with your skin tone DK yarn and 2.5 mm hook.

Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc in ring. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: sc 1, inc rep around. (18 sts)
Rnd 4: sc 2, inc rep around. (24 sts)
Rnd 5: sc 3, inc rep around. (30 sts)
Rnd 6: sc 4, inc rep around. (36 sts)
Rnd 7: sc 5, inc rep around. (42 sts)
Rnds 8–16: sc around. (42 sts, 9 rounds even)

Insert your safety eyes between rounds 10 and 11, spaced about 8 stitches apart. This spacing gives Myrella her wide-eyed fairy look. If you are making her for a child under three, use embroidered eyes instead.

Rnd 17: sc 5, dec rep around. (36 sts)
Rnd 18: sc 4, dec rep around. (30 sts)
Rnd 19: sc 3, dec rep around. (24 sts)

Begin stuffing firmly at this point.

Rnd 20: sc 2, dec rep around. (18 sts)
Rnd 21: sc 1, dec rep around. (12 sts)
Rnd 22: dec around. (6 sts)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail to close the opening fully. Weave in the end.

Part Two: The Body

Switch to your black or deep purple DK yarn for the dress bodice.

Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: sc 1, inc rep. (18 sts)
Rnd 4: sc 2, inc rep. (24 sts)
Rnd 5: sc 3, inc rep. (30 sts)
Rnds 6–8: sc around. (30 sts)

Rnd 9: sc 4, inc rep. (36 sts)
Rnds 10–14: sc around. (36 sts)

Rnd 15: sc 4, dec rep. (30 sts)
Rnd 16: sc 3, dec rep. (24 sts)
Rnds 17–20: sc around. (24 sts, neck shaping)

Lightly stuff the body before closing. The body should be firm at the bottom and slightly softer at the top for natural shaping. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for attaching the head.

Part Three: The Arms

Make two with skin tone yarn.

Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st. (12 sts)
Rnds 3–5: sc around. (12 sts)
Rnd 6: sc 2, dec rep. (9 sts)

Switch to black or purple yarn for the sleeve.

Rnds 7–14: sc around. (9 sts)
Rnd 15: sc 1, inc rep, end with sc 0. (13 sts) — This creates a small flared cuff at the wrist for a witchy sleeve detail.

Sl st to close, fasten off. Do not stuff the arms heavily — a small amount of stuffing at the hand end gives shape while keeping the arms poseable.

Part Four: The Legs and Boots

Make two. Start with black yarn for the boot.

Rnd 1: ch 4, starting in 2nd ch from hook: sc 2, 3 sc in last ch, then sc along the other side: sc 1, inc. (9 sts)
Rnd 2: inc, sc 1, inc 3 times, sc 1, inc 2 times. (15 sts)
Rnds 3–5: sc around. (15 sts)
Rnd 6: sc 5, dec 3 times, sc 4. (12 sts)
Rnd 7: sc 4, dec 2 times, sc 4. (10 sts)

Switch to skin tone yarn for the leg.

Rnds 8–18: sc around. (10 sts)

Lightly stuff the boot section and leave the leg unstuffed for flexibility. Fasten off.

Part Five: The Skirt

The skirt is worked in the round, attached directly to the body at the waistline. With your 3.5 mm hook and your sparkle or lace weight accent yarn, join at any stitch around the widest round of the body.

Rnd 1 (FLO): sc around. (30 sts)
Rnd 2: sc 4, inc rep. (36 sts)
Rnd 3: sc 5, inc rep. (42 sts)
Rnd 4: dc 2 in each st rep. (84 sts) — This creates a full, ruffly base layer.
Rnds 5–6: dc around. (84 sts)
Rnd 7: ch 3, dc in each st, join with sl st. Fasten off.

For the second, shorter skirt overlay: join your main black or purple DK yarn at the same waistline but work into the BLO of round 1. Work 2 rounds of sc and then 2 rounds of dc. Fasten off and weave in ends. This double-layer skirt creates beautiful depth and movement.

Part Six: The Hat

Work in a spiral with your black or purple DK yarn and 2.5 mm hook.

Rnd 1: MR, 4 sc. (4 sts)
Rnd 2: sc 1, inc rep. (6 sts)
Rnd 3: sc 2, inc rep. (8 sts)
Rnd 4: sc 3, inc rep. (10 sts)
Rnd 5: sc 4, inc rep. (12 sts)
Rnd 6: sc 5, inc rep. (14 sts)
Rnd 7: sc 6, inc rep. (16 sts)
Rnd 8: sc 7, inc rep. (18 sts)
Rnd 9: sc 8, inc rep. (20 sts)
Rnds 10–12: sc around. (20 sts)

Now work the brim:
Rnd 13: sc 1, inc rep. (30 sts)
Rnd 14: sc 2, inc rep. (40 sts)
Rnd 15: sc 3, inc rep. (50 sts)
Rnd 16: sc around. (50 sts)
Rnd 17: sc 3, inc rep. (62 sts) — This extra increase round gives the brim that characteristic wide witch hat droop.
Rnd 18: sc around in BLO. (62 sts) — Working BLO here gives a neat defined edge to the brim.
Sl st to close. Fasten off.

Lightly stuff the cone of the hat for structure, or leave it unstuffed for a droopy, whimsical effect. Decorate the band of the hat where the cone meets the brim with a length of ribbon, a small crocheted star, or a few French knot embroidery flowers.

Part Seven: The Wings

The wings are the feature that transforms Myrella from a simple witch doll into a genuine witch fairy. Work four wing panels — two large and two small — with your lightest yarn and your 3.5 mm hook.

For each large wing:
ch 12.
Row 1: starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc 1, hdc 2, dc 4, hdc 2, sc 1, turn. (11 sts)
Row 2: ch 1, inc in sc, hdc in hdc, dc in dc, 2 dc in next dc, dc in dc, 2 dc in next dc, dc in dc, hdc in hdc, inc in last sc, turn. (14 sts)
Row 3: ch 2, dc across, increasing 1 stitch at each end. (16 sts)
Row 4: ch 1, sc across, sl st to start of row 1 to close the wing panel into a slight curve.

Fasten off. Repeat for the second large wing.

For each small wing:
ch 8.
Row 1: sc 1, hdc 2, dc 2, hdc 1, sc 1, turn. (7 sts)
Row 2: inc across selectively to increase by 3 stitches, creating a rounded shape.
Row 3: sc around the entire perimeter with sl st join, creating a tidy edge.

Fasten off.

To stiffen: mix one part cornstarch with two parts water, heat until thickened, and allow to cool slightly. Dip each wing panel, shape over a curved surface (a small bowl works perfectly), and allow to dry completely. Alternatively, use a commercial fabric stiffener. Once dry, the wings will hold their spread shape beautifully.

Join the wings in pairs (one large, one small) with a few neat stitches and sew them to the center back of Myrella’s body, angling them upward and outward for a mid-flight appearance.

Part Eight: The Broomstick and Wand

Broomstick: Cut a dowel or wooden skewer to approximately 15 centimeters. Wrap the top third with brown yarn, securing with a dab of craft glue at each end. For the bristles, cut a bundle of thin twine or raffia to about 6 centimeters, fold in half, and tie around the base of the dowel. Fan the bristles out and trim to an even, slightly rounded shape. The broomstick can be tucked into Myrella’s arm or sewn to her hand with a few invisible stitches.

Wand: Cut a wooden skewer to about 10 centimeters. Wrap entirely in gold or silver yarn. For the star tip, cut a small star from gold felt or crochet a tiny flat star: ch 2, 5 sc in 2nd ch from hook. Work two or three petals off this ring by: (sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc) in each sc, joining with sl st. Hot glue or sew the star to the tip of the wand.

Assembly

Assembly is where Myrella truly comes to life.

Begin by attaching the head to the body. Position the head so it sits centered on the top opening of the body and sew around with your yarn needle, pulling firmly and evenly to avoid any gaps. Use the long tail you left when closing the head or the body to create a strong join.

Attach the legs to the bottom of the body on either side of the center point. If you want Myrella to sit, angle the legs slightly forward. If you want her to hang as an ornament or stand with a small base, keep them pointing straight down.

Attach the arms at the shoulder level of the body, one on each side. Sew them so they angle slightly forward and downward — this gives her a more dynamic, spell-casting pose.

Place the hat on her head and sew through the brim with a few anchor stitches to keep it from sliding.