Free No-Sew Amigurumi Pig Pattern | Easy Crochet Piggy Plushie

If you’ve been searching for the cutest, most beginner-friendly crochet project to add to your collection, you’ve found it. This free no-sew amigurumi pig pattern is exactly what it sounds like — an adorable little piggy plushie that comes together without any sewing, making it perfect for crocheters who want a finished project that looks polished without the fuss of assembling dozens of separate pieces.

Whether you’re brand new to amigurumi or you’ve made a few critters before and want something quick and satisfying, this easy crochet piggy plushie is a wonderful choice. It works up fast, uses yarn you likely already have in your stash, and the result is an irresistibly chubby little pig that makes a fantastic gift, toy, or shelf decoration.

Let’s dive in.

What Is Amigurumi and Why No-Sew?

Amigurumi is the Japanese art of crocheting or knitting small stuffed animals and characters. The word comes from the Japanese words “ami” (crocheted or knitted) and “nuigurumi” (stuffed doll). These little creations have taken the crafting world by storm because they’re endlessly customizable, relatively small in scale, and deeply satisfying to make.

Traditional amigurumi patterns involve crocheting each body part separately — the head, body, legs, ears, and tail — and then sewing them all together using a yarn needle and whipstitches or mattress stitches. For many crafters, that assembly process is actually the least enjoyable part of the whole project. Sewing pieces together neatly takes practice, and even experienced crocheters can end up with slightly lopsided heads or wobbly ears.

That’s where the no-sew technique comes in. In a no-sew amigurumi pattern, the appendages are worked directly onto the body using join-as-you-go methods, or the body and limbs are constructed in a way that eliminates separate seams entirely. The result is cleaner, sturdier, and honestly much more fun to make.

This piggy pattern uses a combination of crocheting directly into the body and a clever join method for the ears and snout that means you’ll barely touch a yarn needle the entire time — and when you do, it’s only to weave in ends, not to sew pieces together.

What You’ll Need

Before you start, gather your supplies. This pattern is designed to be accessible, so nothing on this list is unusual or hard to find.

Yarn: Worsted weight yarn (size 4) in pink. You’ll need approximately 100–150 yards depending on how tightly you crochet. A light dusty rose or peachy pink both work beautifully if you want something slightly softer than bubblegum pink. You’ll also want a very small amount of black or dark brown yarn for embroidering the eyes, and a tiny bit of white or cream if you want to add highlight dots.

Hook: A 3.5mm or 4.0mm crochet hook. The smaller hook creates a tighter fabric that holds stuffing in better and gives the plushie a firmer, more professional finish. If your gauge runs loose, go down a hook size.

Stuffing: Polyfill or polyester fiberfill stuffing. The pig should feel firmly stuffed but not so tight that the fabric distorts. A good rule of thumb is to add stuffing gradually as you close off sections.

Yarn needle: You’ll use this for weaving in ends and embroidering the eyes and nostrils. Not for sewing, as promised.

Stitch markers: Essential for keeping track of your rounds in amigurumi. Locking stitch markers work best, but a small piece of contrasting yarn works just fine too.

Optional: Safety eyes (6mm or 8mm) if you prefer not to embroider. However, because this is described as a plushie, please note that safety eyes should not be used for toys intended for children under three years old. For baby gifts or toys for very young children, embroidered eyes are always the safer choice.

Pattern Notes

This pattern is written in American crochet terms.

The following abbreviations are used throughout: MR (magic ring), ch (chain), sc (single crochet), inc (increase — two single crochets in the same stitch), dec (invisible decrease — insert hook into the front loops only of the next two stitches and single crochet them together), sl st (slip stitch), and FO (fasten off).

All rounds are worked in a continuous spiral. Do not join rounds unless the pattern specifically tells you to. Move your stitch marker to the last stitch of each round to keep your place.

The finished piggy plushie measures approximately 4 inches tall and 3 inches wide when made with worsted weight yarn and a 3.5mm hook. You can size up by using bulky yarn and a larger hook, or size down with fingering weight yarn and a 2.5mm hook.

The Pattern

Head and Body (Worked in One Piece)

The pig’s head and body are worked seamlessly from the top of the head down to the bottom. This is the core of the no-sew technique — by working the whole torso in one continuous piece, there’s no seam between head and body to worry about.

Round 1: Start with a magic ring. Work 6 sc into the ring. Pull the ring closed. (6 stitches)

Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 stitches)

Round 3: [Sc 1, inc] repeat 6 times. (18 stitches)

Round 4: [Sc 2, inc] repeat 6 times. (24 stitches)

Round 5: [Sc 3, inc] repeat 6 times. (30 stitches)

Round 6: [Sc 4, inc] repeat 6 times. (36 stitches)

Rounds 7–11: Sc in each st around. (36 stitches, worked for 5 rounds)

This forms the rounded top of the head. If you’d like a slightly larger head, add one or two additional straight rounds here.

Round 12: [Sc 4, dec] repeat 6 times. (30 stitches)

Round 13: [Sc 3, dec] repeat 6 times. (24 stitches)

Round 14: Sc in each st around. (24 stitches)

At this point, you’ve completed the head portion and you’re transitioning into the neck and body. Stuff the head firmly before you close it off too much more — it’s much easier to add stuffing now than when the opening is smaller.

Round 15: [Sc 2, inc] repeat 6 times. (30 stitches)

Round 16: [Sc 3, inc] repeat 6 times. (36 stitches)

Round 17: [Sc 4, inc] repeat 6 times. (42 stitches)

Rounds 18–24: Sc in each st around. (42 stitches, worked for 7 rounds)

Round 25: [Sc 4, dec] repeat 6 times. (36 stitches)

Round 26: [Sc 4, dec] repeat 6 times. (30 stitches)

Add more stuffing here. Make sure the body is well-stuffed and has a nice round, chubby shape.

Round 27: [Sc 3, dec] repeat 6 times. (24 stitches)

Round 28: [Sc 2, dec] repeat 6 times. (18 stitches)

Round 29: [Sc 1, dec] repeat 6 times. (12 stitches)

Add a final bit of stuffing to fill out the bottom nicely.

Round 30: Dec 6 times. (6 stitches)

Fasten off, leaving a short tail. Use your yarn needle to weave through the remaining 6 stitches and pull tight to close. Weave in the end securely.

Snout (Joined Directly to Head)

The snout is worked flat, then joined to the head without sewing. You’ll work the snout to its finished size, then attach it using a slip stitch join around the outer edge — no sewing needle required.

Round 1: MR, work 6 sc into the ring. (6 stitches)

Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 stitches)

Round 3: [Sc 1, inc] repeat 6 times. (18 stitches)

Round 4: Sc in each st around. (18 stitches)

Do not fasten off. Hold the snout against the front center of the head, positioning it where the pig’s face will be — roughly centered between the start of the head (top) and the neck decrease. Using your working yarn and hook, slip stitch through both the snout’s edge and the corresponding stitches on the head surface, working around the entire circumference of the snout. This joins the snout directly to the head in one go.

Fasten off and weave in the end. Now, using your yarn needle and black yarn, embroider two small nostril ovals onto the center of the snout. Simple satin stitch ovals work beautifully here. Two or three stitches per nostril is plenty.

Ears (Worked and Joined Directly to Head)

The ears are worked flat in rows and joined directly to the head at the end of the last row. This means you never have to sew an ear on — you just work right into the head as the final step of each ear.

For each ear:

Row 1: Ch 7, sc across (6 stitches), ch 1, turn.

Row 2: Inc in first st, sc 4, inc in last st (8 stitches), ch 1, turn.

Row 3: Sc across. (8 stitches), ch 1, turn.

Row 4: Dec, sc 4, dec. (6 stitches), ch 1, turn.

Row 5: Do not turn. Work a slip stitch border around the outer three sides of the ear for a neat finish, then at the bottom edge, instead of fastening off, insert your hook directly into the head at the ear placement point and slip stitch the two bottom corners of the ear onto the head. This secures the ear without any separate sewing.

Placement tip: Position the ears roughly on rounds 3–5 of the head, placing them on either side with about 8–10 stitches between them. The ears can sit slightly forward for a more cartoon-like look, or more to the side for a realistic piggy profile. Both are adorable.

Fasten off and weave in the end.

Legs (Four Legs, Worked and Attached Directly)

The legs use the same join-as-you-go philosophy. Each leg is started separately and joined at its open end directly into the body using a slip stitch attachment.

For each leg (make 4):

Round 1: MR, 6 sc into ring. (6 stitches)

Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 stitches)

Rounds 3–5: Sc in each st around. (12 stitches, 3 rounds)

To attach, pinch the open end of the leg flat and position it against the lower body. Insert your hook through both layers of the leg opening and through the corresponding stitches on the body surface, then slip stitch across to join. This creates a secure, flat attachment that looks clean from the outside.

Stuff the legs lightly before attaching, or leave them unstuffed for a softer, floppy feel — both are charming.

Place the two front legs on either side of the body around rounds 16–17, and the two back legs lower, around rounds 22–23.

Tail (The Best Part)

Every pig needs a curly tail. This one is created with a simple crochet chain and curl technique.

Using your hook and pink yarn, attach yarn to the back of the body at the center, just above the base. Chain 12. Now single crochet 3 times into each chain stitch back along the chain. This causes the tail to naturally curl and spiral as you go. Fasten off and weave in the end. Give the tail a gentle tug and twist to encourage the curl.

Face and Finishing Details

Now comes the part that truly brings your piggy to life. Using black yarn and a yarn needle, embroider two small eyes onto the head, placing them just above the snout and on either side. You can make simple French knots for a minimal, modern look, or small flat oval shapes with satin stitch for bigger, more expressive eyes. For shiny eyes with a little personality, add a single white satin stitch highlight dot in the upper corner of each eye.

Take a moment to look at the face from different angles. Sometimes moving the eyes even one stitch closer together or farther apart completely changes the expression. Don’t be afraid to adjust — just snip the embroidery and redo it if you’re not happy with the result. Getting the face right is worth the extra few minutes.

Weave in any remaining ends, give your piggy a gentle squeeze to distribute the stuffing evenly, and you’re done.

Tips for Getting the Best Results

Working into a magic ring tightly is the key to avoiding a hole at the top of your pig’s head. After completing round 1, pull the tail of the magic ring firmly and then give it another tug after round 2 to close any gap completely.

If your pig ends up looking more oval than round, you may have stuffed it unevenly. Squeeze it firmly between your palms in different directions while the yarn still has a little give, and it should round out beautifully.

For a more dimensional snout, you can lightly stuff it with a tiny pinch of fiberfill before joining it to the face. Just tuck a small amount inside before you complete the slip stitch join.

If you want to make a pink pig with a lighter belly, work rounds 15–24 of the body in a lighter pink or peach yarn. The color change happens exactly at the right place to mimic a piggy belly, and it adds a sweet detail that makes the plushie look more professionally finished.

Ways to Customize Your Piggy Plushie

One of the most joyful things about amigurumi is how endlessly customizable they are. Once you’ve made the basic pattern, try some of these variations to make each pig unique.

You can make a mama pig and a tiny baby pig by using different yarn weights. A bulky yarn pig beside a fingering weight pig is an incredibly sweet pair. Try making a whole family.

Changing the color of the yarn is the simplest way to reinvent the pattern entirely. A grey pig becomes an elephant with larger ears. A brown version starts to look like a little bear. A white pig with pink-tipped ears becomes an adorable arctic variation. Let your yarn stash guide you.

Adding accessories transforms a simple pig into a character. A tiny crocheted bow between the ears, a small hat, or a simple crocheted flower clipped to one ear are all quick additions that make wonderful gifts feel extra special and personalized.

For seasonal versions, consider holiday colorways. A red and white pig for Christmas, an orange pig with black embroidered patches for Halloween, or a pastel rainbow pig for Easter are all quick projects once you have the base pattern memorized.

Making This Piggy as a Gift

This amigurumi pig is genuinely one of the best handmade gifts you can give. It’s appropriate for all ages when made with embroidered eyes, it takes only a few hours from cast-on to finished, and it has that special handmade quality that mass-produced toys simply can’t replicate.

For baby gifts, always use embroidered safety features — no buttons, no plastic eyes, nothing that could detach. Choose a washable yarn so parents can throw the pig in the laundry without worry. A super soft chunky chenille or velvet yarn creates an unbelievably cozy version that’s irresistible to tiny hands.

For older children or adults, you have more freedom with materials. You can incorporate more detailed embroidery, add a small squeaker inside before closing the body, or even add a loop of ribbon at the top to turn the pig into a hanging ornament.

If you’re selling your finished plushies, this pattern is free for personal and small business use. Just make sure to credit the pattern when listing your items in your shop, and photograph them in good natural light — this little piggy looks especially good in soft morning light against a neutral linen background.

Final Thoughts

There is something deeply satisfying about finishing an amigurumi project. You start with