Adorable Pig Amigurumi Pattern | Hook Vibes

There is something undeniably charming about a chubby little crocheted pig sitting on a shelf, peeking out from a gift bag, or being squeezed in the hands of a child who refuses to put it down. Amigurumi pigs are among the most beloved projects in the crochet world, and once you make one, you will completely understand why. This pig amigurumi pattern from Hook Vibes walks you through every step of creating your own rosy, round, snout-nosed friend from scratch, whether you are a seasoned crafter or someone picking up a crochet hook for only the second or third time.

In this post, you will find the complete pattern, a full materials list, helpful tips for getting clean and even stitches, and guidance on assembly and finishing. Grab your favorite yarn and your most comfortable chair, because once you start this little pig, you are not going to want to put it down.

Why You Will Love This Pig Amigurumi Pattern

Before diving into the how-to, let’s talk about why this particular pattern works so well. Pigs are one of the most forgiving shapes in amigurumi because their body is essentially a round ball, and their features are simple enough that even small inconsistencies in stitching look adorable rather than wrong. The snout is a flattened oval, the ears are tiny curved triangles, and the curly tail is just a little spiral of chain stitches. There are no complicated color changes, no fussy embroidery techniques, and no need for advanced shaping.

This pattern is written in American crochet terminology and uses single crochet almost exclusively, which means it is accessible to beginners while still producing a finished toy that looks polished and professional. The finished pig stands approximately four to five inches tall, making it a perfect size for display, gifting, or use as a soft toy for older children.

Materials You Will Need

Getting your materials together before you begin saves a lot of frustration mid-project. Here is everything you need to make one pig:

Yarn: Worsted weight yarn in light pink or dusty rose for the body, ears, snout, and limbs. You will also need a small amount of a slightly darker pink for the inner ears and nostrils, and a tiny bit of any color you like for a bow or accessory if you want to add one. Approximately 80 to 100 yards of the main pink should be more than enough for the whole project.

Hook: A 3.5 mm crochet hook is ideal for worsted weight yarn when making amigurumi. Using a hook that is one or two sizes smaller than the yarn label recommends creates a tighter fabric with fewer gaps, which prevents the polyfill stuffing from showing through.

Stuffing: Polyester fiberfill, sometimes called polyfill, is the standard choice. Use enough to make the body and head feel firm without distorting the shape of your stitches.

Eyes: Two black safety eyes in 9 mm or 12 mm size work beautifully for this pig. If you are making the toy for a child under three years old, skip the safety eyes and embroider the eyes in black yarn instead.

Yarn needle: A blunt tapestry needle with a large eye for weaving in ends and sewing pieces together.

Stitch markers: Two or three locking stitch markers help you keep track of the beginning of each round, which is especially helpful when you are working in a spiral.

Scissors: A small, sharp pair for trimming yarn ends cleanly.

Optional but nice to have: a piece of cardboard or a stitch counter app on your phone to track your rounds.

Pattern Notes

This pattern is worked in continuous rounds, meaning you do not join at the end of each round with a slip stitch. Instead, you simply continue working in a spiral and use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of each round. This technique produces a seamless look that is the hallmark of amigurumi.

All increases are made by working two single crochets into the same stitch. All decreases are invisible decreases, made by inserting your hook under the front loop only of the first stitch, then under the front loop only of the second stitch, and drawing up a loop through both before completing the decrease. This method keeps your decreases tidy and barely visible.

Abbreviations used throughout this pattern:

• MR — magic ring
• sc — single crochet
• inc — increase (two sc in one stitch)
• dec — invisible decrease
• ch — chain
• sl st — slip stitch
• BLO — back loop only
• st(s) — stitch(es)

The Pattern

Head and Body (made in one piece, starting from the top of the head)

Round 1: Start with a magic ring. Work 6 sc into the ring. Pull tight. (6 sts)

Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)

Round 3: (Sc 1, inc) repeat around. (18 sts)

Round 4: (Sc 2, inc) repeat around. (24 sts)

Round 5: (Sc 3, inc) repeat around. (30 sts)

Round 6: (Sc 4, inc) repeat around. (36 sts)

Round 7: (Sc 5, inc) repeat around. (42 sts)

Rounds 8 through 14: Sc in each st around. (42 sts for 7 rounds)

This is the point where you will insert the safety eyes, if you are using them. Position them between rounds 10 and 11, approximately 6 to 8 stitches apart, and press the washers firmly onto the posts from the inside of the head. Once the washers are on, the eyes cannot be removed safely, so take a moment to make sure you are happy with their placement before securing them.

Round 15: (Sc 5, dec) repeat around. (36 sts)

Round 16: (Sc 4, dec) repeat around. (30 sts)

Round 17: (Sc 3, dec) repeat around. (24 sts)

Begin stuffing the head firmly at this point. Continue adding small amounts of stuffing as you close the opening.

Round 18: (Sc 2, dec) repeat around. (18 sts)

Round 19: Sc in each st around. (18 sts)

Round 20: (Sc 2, inc) repeat around. (24 sts)

Round 21: (Sc 3, inc) repeat around. (30 sts)

Round 22: (Sc 4, inc) repeat around. (36 sts)

Round 23: (Sc 5, inc) repeat around. (42 sts)

Round 24: (Sc 6, inc) repeat around. (48 sts)

Rounds 25 through 30: Sc in each st around. (48 sts for 6 rounds)

Round 31: (Sc 6, dec) repeat around. (42 sts)

Round 32: (Sc 5, dec) repeat around. (36 sts)

Round 33: (Sc 4, dec) repeat around. (30 sts)

Round 34: (Sc 3, dec) repeat around. (24 sts)

Stuff the body firmly now. Leave no hollow spots near the base.

Round 35: (Sc 2, dec) repeat around. (18 sts)

Round 36: (Sc 1, dec) repeat around. (12 sts)

Round 37: (Dec) repeat around. (6 sts)

Fasten off, leaving a short tail. Use your yarn needle to close the remaining six stitches by weaving through their front loops and pulling tight. Weave in the end.

Snout

Round 1: Start with a magic ring. Work 6 sc into the ring. (6 sts)

Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)

Round 3: (Sc 1, inc) repeat around. (18 sts)

Rounds 4 and 5: Sc in each st around. (18 sts)

Fasten off and leave a long yarn tail for sewing. Stuff the snout lightly before attaching it to the face.

To add nostrils, thread a length of darker pink yarn onto your yarn needle and make two small oval stitches on the flat front of the snout, positioned slightly apart from center.

Ears (make two)

Round 1: Start with a magic ring. Work 6 sc into the ring. (6 sts)

Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)

Round 3: (Sc 1, inc) repeat around. (18 sts)

Round 4: Sc in each st around. (18 sts)

Fasten off and leave a long tail. Do not stuff the ears. Fold each ear gently in half with the front sides facing outward and use a few stitches through the base to hold the fold before attaching them to the head.

If you want to add a pink inner ear, simply cut a small oval from craft felt in a slightly darker pink and glue or stitch it to the front of each ear before attaching them to the head.

Legs (make four)

Round 1: Start with a magic ring. Work 6 sc into the ring. (6 sts)

Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)

Round 3: Working in BLO, sc in each st around. (12 sts) This creates a slight ledge at the base of the leg that gives the hoof a neat, defined look.

Rounds 4 through 8: Sc in each st around. (12 sts for 5 rounds)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Stuff lightly. The front two legs should be left slightly less stuffed so they drape softly when attached; the back two legs can be slightly firmer to give the pig more stability when sitting.

Tail

Chain 10, then work 3 sc into the 2nd chain from the hook and into every chain across. This extra fullness causes the tail to curl naturally. Fasten off with a long tail for sewing.

Assembly

Assembly is where your pig truly comes to life, and taking your time here makes a noticeable difference in the final result.

Start by positioning the snout on the lower half of the face, centered between the eyes. Use pins or stitch markers to hold it in place while you check the placement from multiple angles. Once you are happy with its position, sew it down using the yarn tail and a tapestry needle, working small whipstitches all the way around the edge of the snout. The stitches should be nearly invisible when done on the right side of the fabric.

Attach the ears to either side of the top of the head. The base of each ear should sit somewhere between rounds 3 and 6, tilted very slightly forward. Again, use pins first and check the symmetry before committing to the stitches. Asymmetrical ears can add a quirky charm, but if you want them even, a ruler or counting stitches between attachment points helps.

For the legs, decide whether you want your pig to sit or lie down, as this will determine where you attach them. For a sitting pig, attach the back legs low on the body at roughly the four and eight o’clock positions, angled outward slightly so the pig balances. Attach the front legs higher up on the body at roughly the two and ten o’clock positions, so they splay forward a little. The pig should be able to sit flat on a surface without tipping once the legs are in place.

Finally, attach the curly tail at the back of the body, just above center. A few secure stitches through the base of the chain are all you need, and the natural curl will do the rest.

Finishing Touches

Once all pieces are attached, go through the toy and weave in any remaining yarn ends until they are fully hidden. Give your pig a gentle squeeze and check for any soft spots in the stuffing, adding a bit more fiberfill through the small yarn tail openings if needed before you close them completely.

If you want to give your pig a little personality, consider adding a small bow tied from a contrasting color of yarn or ribbon, stitched between the ears. A tiny flower, a mini knitted scarf, or even a little hat made from a folded piece of felt can completely change the character of the finished toy. Pigs in accessories are famously irresistible.

Tips for Best Results

Tension is everything in amigurumi. If your stitches are too loose, the polyfill will push through the fabric and give your pig an uneven, lumpy surface. If they are too tight, your hands and wrists will tire out quickly and the piece will become stiff and hard. Practice holding your yarn with a consistent wrap tension and try a small swatch before beginning the body if you are unsure.

Counting your stitches at the end of each round is a habit that will save you from having to frog (unravel) your work later. One missed increase or decrease can throw off your stitch count for every round that follows, and it is much easier to catch and fix an error immediately than to discover it five rounds later.

Working in good light is genuinely important when you are using dark or very saturated yarn colors, as it is easy to miss stitches against a deep background. If you find yourself struggling to see your stitches, try using a bright lamp or working near a window during daylight hours.

Who Is This Pattern Great For?

This pig amigurumi pattern is wonderful for beginners who have mastered the magic ring and basic single crochet rounds and are ready for their first complete character project. It is equally satisfying for intermediate and experienced crocheters who want a quick, enjoyable make that produces impressive results without requiring hours of advanced technique.

It makes a perfect handmade baby shower gift, Easter basket filler, birthday present for a pig-loving friend, or simply a sweet addition to a shelf full of crocheted creatures. Pigs are universally beloved, and a handmade one carries a warmth and individuality that no store-bought toy can replicate.

Sharing Your Finished Pig

When you finish your pig, share it with the Hook Vibes community! Tag your photos with #HookVibes and #PigAmigurumi so that other crafters can find your version for inspiration. Seeing how different yarn colors, hook sizes, and finishing choices transform the same pattern into dozens of unique little characters is one of the most joyful parts of being part of an amigurumi community.

If you have questions, run into a tricky step, or want to share a modification you made, drop a comment below. This pattern is meant to be a starting point, and some of the most creative pigs come from crafters who decide to swap in unexpected yarn colors, add embroidered glasses, or give their pig a miniature pair of overalls.

However your pig turns out, it will be made with your hands and your time, which means it is already something special. Happy hooking.