Amigurumi Cat with a Witch Hat – Free Crochet Pattern

There is something undeniably charming about a tiny crocheted cat perched under an oversized pointy hat. Whether you are making it for Halloween, gifting it to a fellow cat lover, or simply adding it to your growing collection of amigurumi, this pattern delivers maximum cuteness with straightforward stitches that even intermediate beginners can handle. In this post, you will find a complete, free crochet pattern for an amigurumi cat with a witch hat, including materials, stitch counts, assembly notes, and tips to help you get the best results.

Let’s dive in.

Why You’ll Love This Pattern

Amigurumi cats are one of the most popular projects in the crochet community, and it is easy to see why. They are compact, quick to finish, satisfying to stuff, and endlessly customizable. Add a witch hat into the mix and you have a project that feels seasonal and whimsical without requiring advanced skills.

This pattern uses basic amigurumi techniques — magic rings, single crochets, increases, and decreases — so if you have made a simple amigurumi before, you are well prepared. If this is one of your first amigurumi projects, do not worry. Each section is broken down clearly, and there are notes throughout to help you understand what you are doing and why.

The finished cat stands approximately 5 to 6 inches tall without the hat, and around 7 to 8 inches with the hat depending on your yarn and hook size. It makes a perfect shelf decoration, a Halloween ornament, or a thoughtful handmade gift.

Materials You Will Need

Before you cast on your magic ring, gather everything so you are not hunting through your stash mid-project.

Yarn: Worsted weight yarn (Category 4) works beautifully for this pattern. You will need a main color for the cat’s body (black is classic for a witch’s cat, but gray, orange, or cream are equally adorable), a contrasting color for the belly and face details if desired, and black or dark purple for the witch hat. You will also need a small amount of pink for the inner ears, white or cream for the muzzle area, and any accent color you like for the hat band.

Hook: A 3.5mm or 4.0mm crochet hook. Many amigurumi makers prefer a slightly smaller hook than the yarn label recommends in order to create a tighter fabric that hides the stuffing inside.

Eyes: Two 9mm or 12mm safety eyes in black or amber. If you are making this for a small child, embroidered eyes are safer.

Stuffing: Polyester fiberfill stuffing, enough to fill the head, body, and tail firmly.

Other supplies: Stitch markers, a yarn needle for sewing pieces together, scissors, and optional wire if you want poseable ears or a bendable tail.

Abbreviations

This pattern is written in US crochet terms.

MR = magic ring
sc = single crochet
inc = increase (2 sc in the same stitch)
dec = invisible decrease (insert hook through front loops of next two stitches, yarn over and pull through both, yarn over and pull through remaining loops)
sl st = slip stitch
ch = chain
BLO = back loop only
FLO = front loop only
st = stitch
rnd = round

Pattern Notes

Work in continuous rounds unless otherwise stated. Use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of each round so you do not lose your place. When you change colors, do so on the last yarn over of the stitch before the new section begins. Leave long yarn tails when fastening off so you have enough length to sew pieces together without running out of thread partway through.

Stuff as you go rather than waiting until a piece is finished. For small pieces like ears and paws, stuff lightly or leave unstuffed depending on the effect you prefer.

The Pattern

Head

The head is worked from the top down.

Round 1: MR, 6 sc into the ring. (6)
Round 2: inc in each st around. (12)
Round 3: (sc 1, inc) repeat 6 times. (18)
Round 4: (sc 2, inc) repeat 6 times. (24)
Round 5: (sc 3, inc) repeat 6 times. (30)
Round 6: (sc 4, inc) repeat 6 times. (36)
Round 7: (sc 5, inc) repeat 6 times. (42)
Rounds 8–14: sc in each st around. (42) — 7 rounds even
Round 15: (sc 5, dec) repeat 6 times. (36)

This is the round where you should insert your safety eyes, positioning them between rounds 11 and 12, approximately 8 to 9 stitches apart. Take your time with the placement because once you lock them in, they are very difficult to remove.

Round 16: (sc 4, dec) repeat 6 times. (30)
Round 17: (sc 3, dec) repeat 6 times. (24)

Begin stuffing the head firmly here. You want it round and full.

Round 18: (sc 2, dec) repeat 6 times. (18)
Round 19: (sc 1, dec) repeat 6 times. (12)
Round 20: dec 6 times. (6)

Fasten off, leaving a tail. Use your yarn needle to close the remaining hole by weaving through the front loops of the 6 remaining stitches and pulling tight. Weave in the end.

Body

The body is worked from the bottom up.

Round 1: MR, 6 sc. (6)
Round 2: inc in each st. (12)
Round 3: (sc 1, inc) repeat 6 times. (18)
Round 4: (sc 2, inc) repeat 6 times. (24)
Round 5: (sc 3, inc) repeat 6 times. (30)
Round 6: (sc 4, inc) repeat 6 times. (36)
Rounds 7–10: sc in each st around. (36) — 4 rounds even
Round 11: (sc 4, dec) repeat 6 times. (30)
Rounds 12–13: sc in each st around. (30)
Round 14: (sc 3, dec) repeat 6 times. (24)
Rounds 15–16: sc in each st around. (24)
Round 17: (sc 2, dec) repeat 6 times. (18)
Round 18: sc in each st around. (18)

Begin stuffing the body before it becomes too narrow to reach inside comfortably. Stuff firmly so the cat holds its shape when sitting.

Round 19: (sc 1, dec) repeat 6 times. (12)
Round 20: dec 6 times. (6)

Fasten off and close the hole as you did with the head. Leave a long tail for sewing.

Ears (Make 2)

The ears are made in two layers — an outer ear in your main color and an inner ear in pink.

Outer ear:
Round 1: MR, 4 sc. (4)
Round 2: inc in each st. (8)
Round 3: (sc 1, inc) repeat 4 times. (12)
Round 4: (sc 2, inc) repeat 4 times. (16)
Round 5: sc in each st around. (16)
Fasten off.

Inner ear:
Round 1: MR, 3 sc. (3)
Round 2: inc in each st. (6)
Round 3: (sc 1, inc) repeat 3 times. (9)
Fasten off.

Place the inner ear flat against the outer ear and stitch around the edges to attach it. The result should look like a small pointed cat ear with a pink center. Pinch the base of the ear slightly before sewing it to the head to give it dimension and that authentic cat-ear shape.

Arms (Make 2)

Round 1: MR, 6 sc. (6)
Round 2: inc in each st. (12)
Round 3: sc in each st around. (12)
Round 4: (sc 2, dec) repeat 3 times. (9)
Rounds 5–10: sc in each st around. (9) — 6 rounds even

Stuff lightly. Flatten the opening and sew shut, or leave it open slightly so it has a more natural drape. Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing.

Legs (Make 2)

Round 1: MR, 6 sc. (6)
Round 2: inc in each st. (12)
Round 3: sc in each st around. (12)
Round 4: BLO sc in each st around. (12) — this creates the paw ridge
Round 5: (sc 2, dec) repeat 3 times. (9)
Rounds 6–12: sc in each st around. (9) — 7 rounds even

Stuff firmly up to about round 8, then less so toward the top. Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing.

Tail

Round 1: MR, 6 sc. (6)
Rounds 2–20: sc in each st around. (6) — 19 rounds even

You can make the tail longer or shorter depending on your preference. Stuff lightly or leave it unstuffed for a floppy, natural look. Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing.

Witch Hat

The hat is one of the most satisfying parts of this project. It is worked from the top of the point downward in continuous rounds.

Brim:
Round 1: MR, 6 sc. (6)
Round 2: inc in each st. (12)
Round 3: (sc 1, inc) repeat 6 times. (18)
Round 4: (sc 2, inc) repeat 6 times. (24)
Round 5: (sc 3, inc) repeat 6 times. (30)
Round 6: (sc 4, inc) repeat 6 times. (36)
Rounds 7–10: sc in each st around. (36) — 4 rounds even
Round 11: (sc 5, inc) repeat 6 times. (42)
Round 12: sc in each st around. (42)
Round 13: (sc 6, inc) repeat 6 times. (48)
Round 14: sc in each st around. (48)

Now you will work the brim flat to give the hat its classic pointy witch hat silhouette. Turn the work and work the brim as follows:

Round 15: ch 1, turn, (sc 7, inc) repeat 6 times. (54)
Round 16: ch 1, turn, sc in each st around. (54)
Round 17: ch 1, turn, (sc 8, inc) repeat 6 times. (60)
Round 18: ch 1, turn, sc in each st around, sl st to close. (60)

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Hat band:
Using your accent color, join yarn at any point where the brim meets the hat body and work a round of sc around, then sl st to close. This creates a clean decorative band. You can embroider a small buckle shape onto the band with a contrasting yarn to add extra detail.

Do not stuff the hat. It should sit flat.

Assembly

This is where your amigurumi truly comes to life. Work slowly and pin pieces in place before sewing to make sure everything is symmetrical and positioned exactly where you want it.

Head to body: Sew the head firmly onto the body, placing it slightly forward rather than centered on top. This gives the cat a looking-forward posture that feels alive and inquisitive. Use a whip stitch and go around the join at least twice for a secure connection.

Ears: Position the ears on top of the head about 5 stitches apart, tilted slightly outward. Sew through several layers of the ear base and the head for a secure hold.

Arms: Attach the arms on either side of the body, roughly at round 15 or 16 from the bottom. They should sit slightly forward and can be angled downward or slightly outward depending on the pose you prefer.

Legs: Sew the legs to the bottom front of the body, spacing them symmetrically. If you want your cat to sit upright on its own, make sure the legs are even and flush with the bottom of the body.

Tail: Attach the tail to the back of the body near the base. You can curve it around to the side for a more dynamic look.

Hat: The hat can be sewn permanently onto the head between the ears, or you can leave it unattached so it is removable. If sewing it on, stitch around the inside brim at several points to secure it without puckering the hat.

Face Embroidery

The face is what gives your cat its personality, so take your time here. Using black yarn or embroidery floss, stitch a small nose — a simple inverted triangle with a stitch point downward works perfectly — just below and between the safety eyes. From the base of the nose, bring two small curving lines outward and downward for the mouth. Add thin diagonal lines above each eye for eyebrows if you want an extra expressive look, or leave them plain for a serene, calm expression.

If you want whiskers, use stiff embroidery thread or a thin nylon thread. Insert the needle through one cheek, across the muzzle, and out the other side, leaving a small loop that you then cut to give two whiskers on each side. Fray the ends slightly for a natural look.

Customization Ideas

One of the best things about amigurumi is how easy they are to personalize. Here are a few ideas to make your witch cat uniquely yours.

You could make a calico cat by using a variegated orange, white, and black yarn for a naturally patchy look. A gray tabby cat with darker gray stripes embroidered on the body and head reads as instantly recognizable. If you want a more whimsical vibe, try making the cat in an unexpected color like lavender or dusty blue and pair it with a midnight blue hat.

For the hat, consider adding small crochet details like a tiny crocheted moon or star sewn to the brim, a small spiderweb embroidered onto the hat body, or a miniature crocheted spider hanging from the tip. These small details take very little extra time but elevate the finished piece considerably.

You can also add a small crocheted cape around the cat’s shoulders using a simple semicircle worked in rows, finished with a chain tie at the neck. A purple or black cape makes the whole thing feel like a complete little witch costume.

Tips for Beginners

If you are new to amigurumi, here are a few things that make a real difference in your results.

Always use a stitch marker. It is tempting to skip this step when rounds are small, but it is incredibly easy to lose count and not realize it until a piece is too small or too large to fix easily.

Tension matters a lot in amigurumi. If your tension is too loose, the stuffing will show through the stitches. If it feels loose, try going down half a hook size.

Invisible decreases genuinely make a difference to the finished surface. Regular decreases leave visible bumps; invisible decreases blend almost seamlessly into the fabric. It is worth practicing a few before you start.

When sewing pieces together, use the same yarn as your main color and a blunt-tipped yarn needle. Take your time, and do not rush the assembly — it is the step that determines how professional the finished piece looks.

Finishing and Care

Once your cat is complete, you can gently block it by lightly misting it with water and reshaping by hand. This helps even out any uneven tension and softens the finished fabric slightly.

If the cat is a display piece, it needs no special care. If it is a gift for someone who may want to wash it, choose a machine-washable worsted weight yarn from the start, as many acrylic yarns handle gentle machine washing well. Hand washing in cool water is safest for preserving the shape.

Share Your Makes

If you make this amigurumi cat with a witch hat, please share a photo — there is nothing more rewarding than seeing these little creatures come to life in different colors and yarn weights. Every maker puts their own spin on a pattern, and the variety is always wonderful to see. Tag your project and leave a comment below if