Teddy Bear Knitting Pattern: Flat Knit Andy Teddy Bear
There is something timeless about a handmade teddy bear. Long before the age of mass-produced stuffed animals, knitters and sewers crafted beloved companions by hand, pouring patience and love into every stitch. Today, that tradition lives on, and the flat knit teddy bear remains one of the most satisfying projects a knitter of any skill level can take on. This guide walks you through everything you need to know about the Flat Knit Andy Teddy Bear pattern — from materials and gauge to assembly tips and finishing touches — so you can create a cuddly heirloom that will be treasured for years to come.
Why Choose a Flat Knit Teddy Bear Pattern?
If you have ever looked at a knitted toy pattern and felt intimidated by complex shaping, circular needles, or intricate stitch counts, the flat knit method is your answer. Unlike patterns that require working in the round or managing multiple live stitches at once, flat knitting works on standard straight needles, row by row, producing flat pieces that are then seamed and stuffed into three-dimensional shapes.
The Andy Teddy Bear pattern uses this approach to great effect. Each body part — the head, body, arms, legs, and ears — is knitted as a simple flat panel. Once all the pieces are complete, they are sewn together, stuffed, and embellished. The result is a charming, sturdy bear with a classic silhouette that looks like it belongs on the shelf of a vintage toy shop.
Flat knitting is also wonderfully forgiving. Mistakes are easy to spot and fix before you move on, tension is simpler to maintain on straight needles, and the pieces can be blocked individually before assembly. For beginner knitters, the Andy Bear is an excellent entry point into toy knitting. For experienced knitters, it is a relaxing weekend project that delivers a deeply satisfying finished object.
Materials You Will Need
Before you cast on a single stitch, gather everything you need so the project flows smoothly from start to finish.
Yarn: The Andy Teddy Bear works best with a DK or light worsted weight yarn. Choose something with a tight twist and good stitch definition so the bear’s panels hold their shape when stuffed. Classic wool blends, cotton blends, or acrylic yarns all work well. If the bear is intended for a baby or very young child, opt for a machine-washable yarn clearly labeled as safe for sensitive skin. A main colour for the body and a contrast colour for details like the muzzle or inner ears are the usual approach, though a solid single-colour bear is equally beautiful. You will need approximately 100 to 150 grams of main colour yarn and a small amount of contrast colour.
Needles: Use 3.5 mm (US size 4) straight knitting needles for DK weight yarn, or 4 mm (US size 6) needles if you are using light worsted. Always check your gauge before starting.
Stuffing: Polyester toy stuffing is the most practical choice. It is washable, hypoallergenic, and holds its shape over time. Use enough to make the bear firm but not rock-hard — you want it to have a little give so it feels huggable.
Eyes: Plastic safety eyes are the most common choice for toy knitting. Use 12 mm eyes for a bear of this size. If the bear is for a child under three years old, embroider the eyes with yarn instead, as safety eyes can still pose a risk if they are not fitted correctly.
Embroidery thread or yarn: You will need black or very dark brown yarn for embroidering the nose and mouth.
Tapestry needle: A blunt tapestry needle with a large eye is essential for seaming the pieces together and weaving in your ends.
Scissors and stitch markers: Standard notions that every knitter keeps on hand.
Gauge
Getting your gauge right is more important for toy knitting than people often realise. Because the pieces need to fit together neatly and the finished bear should be the right size, working to gauge saves you frustration during assembly.
For this pattern, the target gauge is 22 stitches and 30 rows over 10 cm (4 inches) in stocking stitch using 3.5 mm needles and DK weight yarn. Knit a gauge swatch before you begin, block it gently, and measure carefully. If your swatch is too tight (more stitches per 10 cm than specified), go up a needle size. If it is too loose, go down a needle size.
A tighter-than-average gauge is actually beneficial for toy knitting because it prevents the stuffing from showing through the fabric. So if you are naturally a loose knitter, consider going down a needle size even if your stitch count matches.
Understanding the Pattern Structure
The Andy Teddy Bear is made up of the following pieces:
Body: Two identical panels, front and back, shaped with gentle increases and decreases to form a rounded torso.
Head: Two identical panels shaped into a broad oval with a slightly pointed top.
Arms: Four panels (two for each arm) that taper gently toward the paw end.
Legs: Four panels (two for each leg) that are slightly wider than the arms and have a small foot extension at the bottom.
Ears: Four small rounded panels (two per ear).
Muzzle: One small oval panel worked in contrast yarn and sewn flat onto the face.
Each piece is worked in stocking stitch (knit one row, purl one row) unless noted otherwise. The edges of each piece will curl slightly, which is completely normal — they will be seamed together, so curling does not affect the final result.
The Pattern
Abbreviations Used
CO — cast on
BO — bind off (cast off)
K — knit
P — purl
K2tog — knit two stitches together (decrease)
M1 — make one stitch (increase)
RS — right side
WS — wrong side
St(s) — stitch(es)
Body (Make 2)
CO 18 sts.
Row 1 (RS): K across.
Row 2 (WS): P across.
Row 3: K1, M1, K to last st, M1, K1. (20 sts)
Row 4: P across.
Row 5: K1, M1, K to last st, M1, K1. (22 sts)
Rows 6 to 20: Continue in stocking stitch without shaping.
Row 21: K1, K2tog, K to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. (20 sts)
Row 22: P across.
Row 23: K1, K2tog, K to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. (18 sts)
Row 24: P across.
Row 25: K1, K2tog, K to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. (16 sts)
Row 26: P across.
BO all sts.
Head (Make 2)
CO 10 sts.
Row 1 (RS): K across.
Row 2 (WS): P across.
Row 3: K1, M1, K to last st, M1, K1. (12 sts)
Row 4: P across.
Row 5: K1, M1, K to last st, M1, K1. (14 sts)
Row 6: P across.
Row 7: K1, M1, K to last st, M1, K1. (16 sts)
Rows 8 to 18: Continue in stocking stitch without shaping.
Row 19: K1, K2tog, K to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. (14 sts)
Row 20: P across.
Row 21: K1, K2tog, K to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. (12 sts)
Row 22: P across.
Row 23: K1, K2tog, K to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. (10 sts)
Row 24: P across.
BO all sts.
Arms (Make 4)
CO 8 sts.
Row 1 (RS): K across.
Row 2 (WS): P across.
Row 3: K1, M1, K to last st, M1, K1. (10 sts)
Row 4: P across.
Row 5: K1, M1, K to last st, M1, K1. (12 sts)
Rows 6 to 20: Continue in stocking stitch without shaping.
Row 21: K1, K2tog, K to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. (10 sts)
Row 22: P across.
Row 23: K1, K2tog, K to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. (8 sts)
Row 24: P across.
BO all sts.
Legs (Make 4)
CO 10 sts.
Row 1 (RS): K across.
Row 2 (WS): P across.
Row 3: K1, M1, K to last st, M1, K1. (12 sts)
Row 4: P across.
Row 5: K1, M1, K to last st, M1, K1. (14 sts)
Rows 6 to 22: Continue in stocking stitch without shaping.
Row 23: K1, K2tog, K to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. (12 sts)
Row 24: P across.
Row 25: K1, K2tog, K to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. (10 sts)
Row 26: P across.
BO all sts.
Ears (Make 4)
CO 8 sts.
Row 1 (RS): K across.
Row 2 (WS): P across.
Row 3: K1, M1, K to last st, M1, K1. (10 sts)
Rows 4 to 8: Continue in stocking stitch.
Row 9: K1, K2tog, K to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. (8 sts)
Row 10: P across.
Row 11: K1, K2tog, K to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. (6 sts)
Row 12: P across.
BO all sts.
Muzzle (Make 1, in contrast yarn)
CO 6 sts.
Row 1 (RS): K across.
Row 2 (WS): P across.
Row 3: K1, M1, K to last st, M1, K1. (8 sts)
Rows 4 to 8: Continue in stocking stitch.
Row 9: K1, K2tog, K to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. (6 sts)
Row 10: P across.
BO all sts.
Assembly Instructions
Assembly is where your flat pieces come to life as a three-dimensional bear, and taking your time at this stage makes all the difference. Lay all your pieces out on a flat surface and block them lightly with a damp cloth before you begin. This relaxes the fabric and makes seaming much easier.
Step 1 — Seam the body. Place the two body panels with right sides facing outward (not inward — you will seam from the outside using mattress stitch for a neat finish). Using your tapestry needle and a length of main colour yarn, join the panels together along the side seams and bottom, leaving the top open for stuffing. Use mattress stitch for the side seams and a simple whip stitch for the cast-on edge at the bottom. Once three sides are seamed, stuff the body firmly with polyester filling. Then seam the top edge closed.
Step 2 — Seam the head. Join the two head panels in the same way, leaving a gap at the bottom for stuffing. Stuff the head well so it holds a nice round shape, then seam the bottom closed, leaving a small opening at the centre bottom where you will attach the head to the body. Pinch the bottom edge into a slight curve as you seam to help the head sit naturally on the body.
Step 3 — Attach the head to the body. Position the head at the top of the body, centring it carefully. Use a length of yarn and your tapestry needle to stitch the head firmly in place all the way around. Go around twice for security.
Step 4 — Make the arms. Pair up the arm panels (one pair per arm). Seam each pair together, leaving the top open, stuff lightly, and close. The arms should feel soft and slightly floppy — over-stuffing makes them stiff and hard to position naturally. Attach each arm to the upper sides of the body, stitching through the seam allowance and into the body fabric for a secure join. The arms can be angled slightly forward for a reaching or hugging pose.
Step 5 — Make the legs. Seam and stuff the legs in the same manner as the arms, using slightly more stuffing to make them a little firmer so the bear can sit upright. Attach the legs to the lower sides of the body, positioning them so they point slightly forward. A bear whose legs point straight down will have trouble sitting, so angle them with intention.
Step 6 — Make the ears. Pair up the ear panels. Rather than stuffing the ears, simply place two panels together and seam around the curved edges, leaving the flat bottom edge open. Flatten each ear and pin it to the top of the head before stitching, so you can adjust the placement until you are happy. When positioned symmetrically, stitch each ear firmly in place.
Step 7 — Attach the muzzle. The muzzle panel is not stuffed either. Pin it to the lower centre of the face and stitch it down using matching contrast yarn, working tiny invisible stitches around the perimeter. Leave the edge very slightly loose rather than pulling it taut, which gives the muzzle a gentle three-dimensional lift.
Embroidering the Face
The face is the soul of any teddy bear, and a few minutes spent getting it right will make an enormous difference to the character of your finished Andy Bear.
Eyes: If using safety eyes, press the post through the fabric from the right side and secure the washer firmly on the inside before you close the head seam. Position the eyes roughly one third of the way down from the top of the head, spaced a little more than one eye-width apart. For embroidered eyes, use a satin stitch worked in a small circle using black or very dark brown yarn.
Nose: Thread your tapestry needle with dark yarn and work a small rectangular satin stitch on the upper centre of the muzzle. An Andy Bear nose is typically four to five stitches wide and three stitches tall — small and neat rather than oversized.
Mouth: From the bottom centre of the nose, bring your needle down to the muzzle and work two short diagonal lines downward and outward to form a simple inverted V shape or a gentle curved smile. This tiny detail has a surprising impact on the bear’s expression, so take the time to experiment with placement before committing.
Tips for a Beautiful Finished Bear
There are a handful of things that consistently separate a polished handmade bear from one that looks a little rough around the edges.
Consistency in stuffing is one of the biggest. Over-stuffed pieces feel hard and lumpy; under-stuffed pieces look flat and shapeless. Aim for a firmness that yields slightly when squeezed. Add stuffing a little at a time, checking the shape frequently, and use a pencil or chopstick to push filling into the extremities of the legs and arms.
Seaming from the outside using mattress stitch produces a far cleaner result than seaming inside out and turning. Toy pieces are difficult to turn neatly, and mattress stitch on a small scale is actually quite forgiving once you get comfortable with it.
Always weave in your ends thoroughly on toy projects. Children (and adults) handle their bears with enthusiasm, and loose ends work their way out over time. Weave each end in at least two directions through the interior of the fabric.
Finally, do not rush the face. Pin the eyes and embroider a test nose and mouth with pins or chalk before committing to anything permanent
