Teacake Stroll Bunny – Free Knitting Pattern

There is something quietly magical about a handknitted toy. It carries the warmth of the hands that made it, the hours of careful stitching, and a kind of personality that no mass-produced object can replicate. The Teacake Stroll Bunny is exactly that kind of project — a sweet, characterful little rabbit designed for knitters of all experience levels who want to create something genuinely special. Whether you are knitting for a new baby, a gift for a child, or simply because you love the craft, this pattern will walk you through every step from cast-on to the final tucked-in yarn end.

In this post you will find the complete free knitting pattern for the Teacake Stroll Bunny, along with tips on yarn choices, stuffing, finishing, and how to give your bunny its own unique character. Grab a cup of tea, settle in, and let’s get started.

About the Teacake Stroll Bunny

The name came easily. Teacake Stroll felt like a lazy Sunday afternoon — a walk to the bakery, crumbs on a coat, the unhurried pleasure of doing something simple very well. This bunny reflects that mood. It is not a complicated pattern. It is not trying to impress anyone. It is soft, slightly round in the middle, with long floppy ears and a little cotton-ball tail, and it has the kind of face that makes people smile the moment they see it.

The bunny stands approximately 28 cm (11 inches) tall when complete, making it a comfortable size for small hands to hold. It is worked flat in pieces and then sewn together, which means it is an ideal pattern if you are still building your confidence with shaping. No circular needles are required, no magic loop, no complex cable work. Just knit, purl, increase, decrease, and sew.

Materials You Will Need

Yarn: Approximately 150 g of DK weight yarn (light worsted / 8 ply) in your main colour. You will also need a small amount — perhaps 10–15 g — in a contrasting colour for the inner ears and belly patch if you choose to include those details. A soft, washable yarn is highly recommended, especially if the bunny is intended for a baby or young child. Merino blends, cotton-acrylic mixes, and superwash wool all work beautifully here. The sample shown uses a warm oatmeal cream for the body and a blush pink for the inner ears.

Needles: 3.5 mm (US size 4) straight needles. You can adjust needle size slightly if you want a tighter or looser fabric, but bear in mind that a looser gauge will allow the stuffing to show through.

Other supplies:

• Polyester toy stuffing (enough to firmly fill the body and head)
• Tapestry needle for seaming and embroidering the face
• Two small black safety eyes, approximately 9 mm, or black embroidery thread if making for a baby under three years
• A small amount of pink embroidery thread or yarn for the nose
• Stitch markers
• Scissors

Gauge: 22 stitches and 30 rows = 10 cm (4 inches) in stocking stitch. As always with toys, gauge is less critical than with garments, but try to keep your tension consistent to avoid gaps in the fabric.

Abbreviations Used in This Pattern

• k — knit
• p — purl
• st(s) — stitch(es)
• k2tog — knit two stitches together (right-leaning decrease)
• ssk — slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)
• kfb — knit into front and back of stitch (increase)
• CO — cast on
• BO — bind off
• RS — right side
• WS — wrong side
• rep — repeat
• rem — remaining
• approx — approximately

Pattern Notes

All pieces are worked flat in rows. The right side is the knit side of stocking stitch. When seaming, use mattress stitch for an invisible join wherever possible. Stuff firmly as you go — a bunny that is too lightly stuffed will look floppy in a less charming way than intended, and the seams will pucker. Leave long tails when casting on and binding off, as these can be used for seaming.

The pattern uses stocking stitch throughout the main body sections and garter stitch (every row knit) for the sole of the feet, which gives them a flat, stable base.

The Pattern

Body (Make 2 Pieces)

Using your main colour, CO 10 sts.

Row 1 (WS): Purl.
Row 2 (RS): Kfb, k to last st, kfb. (12 sts)
Row 3: Purl.
Row 4: Kfb, k to last st, kfb. (14 sts)
Row 5: Purl.
Row 6: Kfb, k to last st, kfb. (16 sts)
Row 7: Purl.
Row 8: Kfb, k to last st, kfb. (18 sts)
Row 9: Purl.
Row 10: Kfb, k to last st, kfb. (20 sts)

Continue in stocking stitch without shaping for 20 rows (ending on a WS row).

Begin decreasing for the neck:
Row 31: K2tog, k to last 2 sts, ssk. (18 sts)
Row 32: Purl.
Row 33: K2tog, k to last 2 sts, ssk. (16 sts)
Row 34: Purl.
Row 35: K2tog, k to last 2 sts, ssk. (14 sts)
Row 36: Purl.

Now increase again for the head:
Row 37: Kfb, k to last st, kfb. (16 sts)
Row 38: Purl.
Row 39: Kfb, k to last st, kfb. (18 sts)
Row 40: Purl.
Row 41: Kfb, k to last st, kfb. (20 sts)
Row 42: Purl.
Row 43: Kfb, k to last st, kfb. (22 sts)
Row 44: Purl.
Row 45: Kfb, k to last st, kfb. (24 sts)

Continue in stocking stitch without shaping for 16 rows.

Begin decreasing for top of head:
Row 62: K2tog, k to last 2 sts, ssk. (22 sts)
Row 63: Purl.
Row 64: K2tog, k to last 2 sts, ssk. (20 sts)
Row 65: Purl.
Row 66: K2tog, k to last 2 sts, ssk. (18 sts)
Row 67: Purl.
Row 68: K2tog, k to last 2 sts, ssk. (16 sts)
Row 69: Purl.
Row 70: K2tog, k to last 2 sts, ssk. (14 sts)
Row 71: Purl.
Row 72: K2tog, k to last 2 sts, ssk. (12 sts)
Row 73: Purl.
Row 74: K2tog, k to last 2 sts, ssk. (10 sts)
Row 75: Purl.

BO all stitches. Leave a long tail for seaming.

Make a second identical piece. With right sides together (or with the right side facing outward for mattress stitch), seam the two pieces together, leaving the bottom open for stuffing. Stuff firmly, then close the bottom seam.

Ears (Make 2 in Main Colour, Make 2 in Contrast Colour)

Using main colour, CO 7 sts.

Row 1 (WS): Purl.
Row 2 (RS): Kfb, k to last st, kfb. (9 sts)
Row 3: Purl.
Row 4: Kfb, k to last st, kfb. (11 sts)
Row 5: Purl.
Row 6: Knit.
Row 7: Purl.

Repeat rows 6 and 7 ten more times (22 rows total from cast-on, ending on a WS row).

Begin decreasing:
Row 23: K2tog, k to last 2 sts, ssk. (9 sts)
Row 24: Purl.
Row 25: K2tog, k to last 2 sts, ssk. (7 sts)
Row 26: Purl.
Row 27: K2tog, k3, ssk. (5 sts)
Row 28: Purl.
Row 29: K2tog, k1, ssk. (3 sts)
Row 30: P3tog. (1 st)

Pull yarn through remaining stitch and fasten off.

Work the contrast colour inner ear pieces in exactly the same way. Place one main colour ear piece and one contrast colour ear piece with right sides together (or back sides together, so the contrast shows on the front) and whipstitch or mattress stitch around the edges, leaving the bottom open. Fold the bottom edge inward about 1 cm and sew the ear to the top of the head, pinching it slightly at the base to give it a natural curve. Position ears approximately 3 cm apart at the top of the head.

Arms (Make 2)

Using main colour, CO 8 sts.

Row 1 (WS): Purl.
Row 2 (RS): Kfb, k to last st, kfb. (10 sts)
Row 3: Purl.
Row 4: Kfb, k to last st, kfb. (12 sts)
Row 5: Purl.

Continue in stocking stitch for 18 rows without shaping.

Begin decreasing:
Row 24: K2tog, k to last 2 sts, ssk. (10 sts)
Row 25: Purl.
Row 26: K2tog, k to last 2 sts, ssk. (8 sts)
Row 27: Purl.
Row 28: K2tog, k to last 2 sts, ssk. (6 sts)
Row 29: Purl.

BO all stitches. Fold the arm piece in half lengthways and seam the long edge and one short end, leaving the top open. Stuff lightly — arms should be a little floppy and soft, not tightly packed. Close the top and attach to the body at the sides, just below the neck shaping.

Legs (Make 2)

Using main colour, CO 10 sts.

Row 1 (WS): Purl.
Row 2 (RS): Kfb, k to last st, kfb. (12 sts)
Row 3: Purl.
Row 4: Kfb, k to last st, kfb. (14 sts)
Row 5: Purl.
Row 6: Kfb, k to last st, kfb. (16 sts)

Continue in stocking stitch for 22 rows without shaping.

Begin decreasing:
Row 29: K2tog, k to last 2 sts, ssk. (14 sts)
Row 30: Purl.
Row 31: K2tog, k to last 2 sts, ssk. (12 sts)
Row 32: Purl.

BO all stitches.

For the foot sole, using main colour, CO 12 sts. Work 10 rows in garter stitch (every row knit). BO all stitches. Fold the leg piece and seam the long edge. Attach the foot sole to the bottom of the leg with whipstitch, stuffing the leg firmly before closing. Attach the finished legs to the lower body with the feet pointing forward.

Tail

Using main colour (or white, if you prefer a classic white cotton-ball look), CO 8 sts.

Row 1: Kfb across all sts. (16 sts)
Row 2: Purl.
Row 3: Kfb across all sts. (32 sts)
Row 4: Purl.
Row 5: K2tog across all sts. (16 sts)
Row 6: Purl.
Row 7: K2tog across all sts. (8 sts)

Break yarn, thread through remaining sts, pull tight and secure. Seam the tail into a small ball shape, stuff lightly, and sew to the back of the bunny at the lower centre of the body.

Finishing and the Face

The face is where your bunny truly comes to life, and it is the most personal part of the whole pattern. There is no single right way to do it.

For safety eyes, push them through the fabric before stuffing the head fully, so you can position them accurately. They should sit about a third of the way down the head section, spaced approximately 3–4 cm apart. Once clicked into place, the backing disc prevents removal — but remember, safety eyes are still not safe for children under three, and embroidered eyes are always the better choice for babies.

To embroider eyes, use a length of black yarn or six strands of black embroidery thread and work several satin stitches closely together to form a small oval or round shape. Keep them small — even 4–5 stitches is enough to convey a bright, sweet expression.

For the nose, work a small triangle or Y-shape in pink embroidery thread just below the centre of the face. You can add a tiny straight stitch below the nose for a simple mouth if you like, or leave it at just the nose for a cleaner look.

Tips for Making Your Bunny Unique

One of the best things about a pattern like this is how much room it leaves for your own interpretation. Here are a few ways knitters have personalised their Teacake Stroll Bunnies:

Colour combinations make an enormous difference. A grey bunny with white inner ears is quietly sophisticated. An all-white bunny with pale lemon inner ears feels fresh and spring-like. A warm toffee brown bunny with cream inner ears looks good enough to eat. You can also knit the belly patch in your contrast colour by adding a small oval of contrast colour yarn as a duplicate stitch or embroidered detail on the front of the body before seaming.

Adding a scarf or collar is a charming touch that takes very little extra yarn. Cast on about 80 stitches in a contrast yarn and work 6 rows in garter stitch, then bind off and tie loosely around the bunny’s neck.

Yarn texture changes the whole personality. A boucle or slightly fluffy yarn gives the bunny a softer, more tactile quality. A smooth mercerised cotton gives crisp stitch definition. A hand-dyed or variegated yarn can give the impression of dappled colouring.

Weighted feet — if you want your bunny to sit independently without toppling, you can place a small bag of dried rice or plastic pellets inside the legs before closing them. This is not suitable if the bunny is for a child, but works wonderfully for a shelf decoration or display piece.

Caring for Your Finished Bunny

If you have used a superwash or machine-washable yarn, the bunny can generally be washed on a gentle cool cycle and reshaped while damp. Avoid high heat, which can cause the stuffing to clump and the yarn to felt if it has any natural fibre content. If the yarn is not washable, hand washing in cool water with a gentle wool wash is the safest option. Pat into shape and allow to dry flat or over a rounded form.

A Note on Gifting Handknitted Toys

There is a long tradition of handknitted toys as gifts, and the Teacake Stroll Bunny fits naturally into that tradition. It is the sort of thing that gets kept. It ends up in old photographs, tucked under a child’s arm on a journey, placed on a shelf long after childhood