
How to Stitch an Octopus Amigurumi: A Complete Step-by-Step Guide for Beginners and Beyond
If you’ve ever fallen in love with those squishy, adorable crocheted creatures that seem to be everywhere on crafting social media, you already know the magic of amigurumi. And among all the wonderful animals you can bring to life with yarn and a hook, the octopus stands out as one of the most beloved, beginner-friendly, and endlessly customizable projects you can tackle. With its round body, expressive eyes, and eight dangling tentacles, a crocheted octopus is the kind of project that looks impressive but is actually far more approachable than it seems.
In this guide, you’ll learn everything you need to know to stitch your very own octopus amigurumi from scratch — from choosing the right materials, understanding the foundational stitches, building the body and tentacles, adding personality with safety eyes and embroidery, and finally assembling a finished plushie you’ll be genuinely proud of. Whether you’re picking up a crochet hook for the first time or you’ve made a few amigurumi before and want to refine your technique, this tutorial walks you through every step clearly and with plenty of tips along the way.
What Is Amigurumi?
Before diving into tentacles and magic rings, it helps to understand what amigurumi actually is. The word comes from Japan — a combination of “ami” (crocheted or knitted) and “nuigurumi” (stuffed doll). Amigurumi is the Japanese craft of crocheting or knitting small, stuffed animals and characters, and it became a global phenomenon in the early 2000s. The style is defined by its characteristic aesthetic: oversized round heads, small bodies, simple limbs, and large, shiny eyes that give every creature an irresistible kawaii (cute) quality.
The octopus is one of the most iconic amigurumi subjects, and it’s easy to see why. The body is essentially a sphere, which is one of the first shapes you learn to make in amigurumi. The tentacles are long, repetitive tubes, which are great for building crochet muscle memory. And the whole thing comes together into something that looks complex but is really just a sequence of very learnable techniques.
Materials You’ll Need
Getting your materials together before you start saves a lot of frustration mid-project. Here’s what you’ll want to have on hand.
Yarn. For a standard amigurumi octopus, a worsted weight yarn (size 4) in your main color works beautifully. You’ll also want a small amount of a contrasting color or white yarn if you plan to add facial details. Cotton yarn gives a crisp, defined stitch definition and is great for amigurumi, but acrylic yarn is more widely available, machine washable, and comes in an enormous range of colors. Either will work well.
Crochet hook. With worsted weight yarn, a 3.5mm or 4.0mm hook is typically recommended for amigurumi, even though the yarn’s label might suggest a larger hook. Going down a hook size or two creates a tighter stitch that keeps the stuffing from showing through and helps your octopus hold its shape.
Safety eyes. These are the plastic eyes with a washer that locks them in place from the inside. For a worsted weight octopus, 10mm to 15mm safety eyes are a popular choice. If you’re making this for a child under three years old, embroider the eyes with yarn instead, since safety eyes can be a choking hazard.
Polyester fiberfill stuffing. This is what gives your amigurumi its satisfying squishiness. You don’t need a lot — a single bag will last you dozens of projects.
Yarn needle. Also called a tapestry needle or darning needle, this has a large eye for threading yarn and a blunt tip that won’t split your stitches when you sew pieces together.
Stitch markers. Amigurumi is worked in continuous rounds rather than joined rounds, so you’ll need to mark the beginning of each round to keep your count accurate. A locking stitch marker, a safety pin, or even a piece of contrasting yarn works perfectly.
Scissors. Sharp embroidery scissors or fabric scissors make clean cuts and cleaner finished work.
Essential Stitches for Octopus Amigurumi
If you’re new to crochet, you only need to master a small handful of stitches and techniques to complete this project. If you already know these, consider this a quick refresher.
Magic ring (also called magic circle or adjustable ring). This is how almost every amigurumi piece begins. It creates a tight, adjustable starting loop that closes completely so you don’t end up with a hole at the top of your octopus’s head. To make one, wrap the yarn around two fingers, insert your hook through the loop, pull up a loop of working yarn, chain one, and then work your starting stitches into the ring before pulling the tail end to tighten.
Single crochet (sc). This is the workhorse of amigurumi. Almost everything in this project is made with single crochets. Insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull through stitch, yarn over again, pull through both loops on hook. That’s it.
Increase (inc). Work two single crochets into the same stitch. This makes your piece wider and is how you build the round shape of the body.
Decrease (dec). The most common method for amigurumi is the invisible decrease: insert hook into the front loop only of the next stitch, then insert hook into the front loop only of the stitch after that, yarn over, pull through both, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops. This creates a neater, less visible decrease than the standard method.
Slip stitch (sl st). Used at the end of rounds when joining, or to move your yarn to a different position without adding height.
Chain (ch). A series of interlocking loops that form the foundation for many starting techniques.
Once you’ve practiced these a few times, making an amigurumi octopus is really just about knowing when to increase, when to decrease, and when to work straight rounds in between.
Making the Octopus Body
The body of your octopus is a sphere, built by increasing outward from a magic ring, working even rounds at the widest point, and then decreasing back inward. Here’s a straightforward pattern to follow.
Start by making a magic ring and working 6 single crochets into it. Pull the ring closed. Place a stitch marker in the first stitch of each round and move it up as you go so you always know where your round begins.
Round 1 is your foundation of 6 stitches. Round 2 is an increase round where you work 2 single crochets into each stitch, giving you 12 stitches. Round 3 alternates one single crochet with one increase all the way around, giving you 18 stitches. Round 4 does the same with two single crochets between each increase, giving you 24. Continue this pattern — each round adds one plain single crochet before each increase — until you reach a diameter you’re happy with. For a medium-sized octopus, stopping at 36 stitches (which you reach after 6 rounds of increases) gives a nice, holdable body.
Work 4 to 6 even rounds on 36 stitches without any increases or decreases. This is the widest part of the body and where you’ll position the safety eyes. Insert the safety eyes now, before you start decreasing and close up the opening, because once the stuffing is in you can’t reach inside to secure the washers. Most people place the eyes between rounds 3 and 4 of the even section, about 6 to 8 stitches apart, but feel free to adjust until the expression looks right to you.
Once the eyes are set, begin the decrease rounds, which mirror the increases: one decrease for every plain single crochet between decreases. After each decrease round, stuff the body firmly. Add stuffing a little at a time rather than all at once — it’s much easier to get an even distribution this way. Continue decreasing until you have about 6 stitches left, then cut the yarn, thread it through the remaining stitches with your yarn needle, and pull tight to close. Weave in the end.
Making the Tentacles
Here’s where an octopus becomes an octopus. You’ll make 8 tentacles, each one a long tube that curls naturally as you crochet it. The curl happens because you’re working in a tight spiral and the finished tube has a slight bias — it’s one of the most satisfying accidental features of this type of pattern.
For each tentacle, chain 20 to 30 stitches (longer chains make longer tentacles), then work a single crochet back along the chain starting from the second chain from the hook. When you get back to the beginning, you’ll have a flat, slightly curled piece. For a rounder, more tube-like tentacle, instead of chaining, make a magic ring with 4 stitches and then work even rounds of 4 stitches for as many rounds as you want the tentacle to be long. This creates a cleaner look.
A popular variation that gives great results: start each tentacle with a magic ring of 6 stitches, work one even round, then begin very gradual decreases every few rounds to taper the tip, giving each tentacle a natural narrowing toward the end. Work about 12 to 16 rounds total per tentacle.
You don’t need to stuff the tentacles unless you want them to be more rigid. Left unstuffed, they hang and drape naturally, which looks wonderful. If you do want more structure, a tiny pinch of fiberfill in the base of each tentacle is enough.
Make all 8 tentacles before you start sewing. Having them all finished makes the assembly process feel smoother and more satisfying.
Adding a Face and Personality
The face is where your octopus comes alive, and there’s a lot of room for creative expression here. The safety eyes are already in place, but you can do so much more.
A simple smile embroidered with a yarn needle and black or dark brown yarn goes a long way. Using a backstitch or a straight stitch, create a small curved mouth below the eyes. If you want your octopus to look surprised, a small circle of straight stitches works well. For blush marks, use a pink or peach yarn and a few small satin stitches on each cheek — or, if you don’t want to embroider, a blush makeup brush and a little pink eyeshadow pressed gently into the yarn gives a beautiful, subtle effect that many amigurumi makers love.
If you want to add eyelashes, a few straight stitches of black yarn extending from above the safety eyes are charming. You can also glue tiny felt eyebrow pieces above the eyes for extra expressiveness.
The beauty of amigurumi is that no two pieces are ever exactly alike, and your octopus’s face will develop its own unique character as you work. Lay out the features before you commit to stitching — take a photo of how they look arranged on the body, then adjust until you love the expression.
Assembling Your Octopus
With the body finished and 8 tentacles ready, it’s time to bring everything together. This is one of the most rewarding parts of the whole process.
Arrange the tentacles evenly around the bottom of the body. Most people find it helpful to use pins to position everything before sewing, so you can step back and check that the spacing looks balanced. With 8 tentacles and a roughly circular base, you’re essentially placing them at the positions of the 8 compass points — north, south, east, west, and the four diagonal directions in between.
Thread your yarn needle with a long piece of the main color yarn (at least twice as long as you think you’ll need) and sew each tentacle to the base of the body using a whipstitch around the edges. Pull firmly but not so tight that you distort the shape of the body. After each tentacle is attached, come up through the base and weave the yarn into the body before moving to the next one to hide your ends as you go.
Once all the tentacles are attached, do a final check from all angles. Are the tentacles spaced evenly? Does the body sit at a pleasing angle? Is the face looking the right direction? If anything needs adjustment, amigurumi pieces are relatively easy to reattach — just snip the yarn, unwind the stitches, and resew.
Finishing Touches and Care
When you’re happy with the assembly, do a thorough check of all yarn ends. Every single end should be woven in and trimmed close to the body. Unweaved ends have a way of working themselves loose over time, especially with handling, so it’s worth taking the time to really secure each one with a few extra stitches in different directions before you trim.
If you used acrylic yarn, your finished octopus can go in the washing machine on a gentle cold cycle and be reshaped while damp. If you used cotton yarn, hand washing is gentler and will keep the colors brighter longer. Always air dry amigurumi rather than putting it in the dryer, which can distort the shape and melt safety eyes.
For display, amigurumi octopuses are naturally photogenic. They look wonderful on bookshelves, perched on top of stacks of books, hanging from their tentacles on a plant hook, or sitting in a small woven basket. Many people make them as gifts, and they’re a popular item at craft fairs and on handmade marketplaces.
Troubleshooting Common Problems
Even experienced makers run into small issues, and the octopus is no exception. Here are a few common situations and how to handle them.
If your sphere doesn’t look perfectly round, it may be that your tension is uneven or your increases are slightly off. The good news is that once stuffed, minor irregularities in the sphere almost always smooth out. Stuff firmly and evenly, and most slight distortions will disappear.
If your tentacles curl more than you’d like, try working with a slightly looser tension or going up half a hook size just for the tentacles. If they don’t curl enough and you want more of that natural swirl, try going down a hook size.
If you can see gaps or holes in your stitches where the stuffing peeks through, your hook is probably too large. Switch to a hook that’s one or two sizes smaller than the yarn label recommends, which is the standard amigurumi approach.
If your safety eyes seem wobbly after inserting them, double-check that the washer is fully seated and clicked flat against the back of the eye post. Sometimes giving it a firm press with a flat object like the back of a spoon helps seat it completely.
Why the Octopus Amigurumi Is Such a Perfect Project
There’s a reason this particular creature has become such a staple of the amigurumi world. The construction teaches you every major technique you’ll use in more complex projects — the magic ring, working in rounds, increasing, decreasing, sewing pieces together, and finishing cleanly. Once you’ve made an octopus, you genuinely have the skills to make almost any amigurumi animal.
Beyond the skill-building, there’s something deeply satisfying about making an octopus specifically. The repetition of the tentacles is almost meditative. The way the sphere comes together and starts to look like a real animal happens quite quickly, giving you that motivating sense of progress. And when you add the eyes and suddenly there’s a face looking back at you, it’s one of the most delightful moments in all of crafting.
Whether you’re making one as a gift for a new baby (using embroidered eyes instead of safety eyes), as a comfort object for yourself, or as the beginning of a whole underwater amigurumi collection, stitching an octopus is a project that rewards your time with something truly special. Grab your hook, pick out a beautiful color of yarn, and get started — your octopus is waiting to come to life.