Pikmin Amigurumi Pattern – FREE – Ami Amour

Pikmin Amigurumi Pattern – FREE – Ami Amour

If you’ve ever wanted to bring the tiny, lovable creatures from Nintendo’s beloved Pikmin series to life in yarn form, you’re in the right place. This free Pikmin amigurumi pattern from Ami Amour is your complete guide to crocheting your very own adorable Pikmin plushie, whether you’re crafting a Red Pikmin, Blue Pikmin, Yellow Pikmin, or any other color in the rainbow. Amigurumi is the Japanese art of crocheting small stuffed animals and characters, and Pikmin — with their round little bodies, stubby legs, and expressive leaf or flower stems — are absolutely perfect subjects for this craft.

Whether you’re a beginner crochet enthusiast or a seasoned amigurumi maker looking for a fun new project, this pattern is designed to be approachable, clear, and satisfying to complete. Let’s dive in.


What Is Amigurumi?

Before we get into the pattern itself, let’s take a quick moment for anyone who’s new to the craft. Amigurumi (編み包み) is a style of knitting or crocheting small, stuffed yarn figures. It originated in Japan and became enormously popular worldwide, especially among crafters who love making miniature versions of characters from video games, anime, and pop culture. The technique almost always uses single crochet stitches worked in continuous rounds, which creates the smooth, rounded shapes that make amigurumi so recognizable and irresistible.

Pikmin are an especially wonderful choice for an amigurumi project because their design is naturally suited to the format — round bodies, minimal limbs, and a distinctive stem topper that you can customize based on the type of Pikmin you’re making.


Materials You’ll Need

To make your Pikmin amigurumi, gather the following supplies before you begin. Having everything on hand before you start will make the process much smoother.

Yarn: Worsted weight yarn in your chosen Pikmin color. For a classic Red Pikmin, you’ll want a bright red. For a Blue Pikmin, a medium blue. Yellow Pikmin calls for a cheerful golden yellow. You’ll also need a small amount of green yarn for the stem and leaf, and white or cream yarn for the eyes. If you’re making a Pikmin with a flower bud or bloom on top, you may want an additional color for the petals.

Hook: A 3.5mm or 4.0mm crochet hook works well for worsted weight yarn. Use whatever size gives you a tight, even fabric without large gaps, since gaps can allow stuffing to show through.

Safety Eyes: 6mm or 8mm black safety eyes work beautifully for Pikmin. Two per Pikmin, of course.

Polyfill Stuffing: A good quality polyester fiberfill stuffing will give your Pikmin a satisfying, squishy feel.

Yarn Needle: For sewing pieces together and weaving in ends.

Stitch Marker: To keep track of the beginning of each round in continuous crochet.

Scissors: For cutting yarn.

Optional: Small pieces of felt or embroidery floss for adding details like the white eye reflections or mouth expression.


Abbreviations Used in This Pattern

This pattern uses standard US crochet terminology. Here’s a quick reference:

MR – Magic Ring
ch – Chain
sl st – Slip Stitch
sc – Single Crochet
inc – Increase (2 sc in the same stitch)
dec – Decrease (invisible decrease: insert hook into front loop of next two stitches, yarn over and pull through both front loops, yarn over and pull through both loops on hook)
st(s) – Stitch(es)
BLO – Back Loop Only
FLO – Front Loop Only
[x] – Repeat instructions inside brackets the indicated number of times


Gauge and Finished Size

Gauge is not critical for amigurumi, but for reference, working with worsted weight yarn and a 3.5mm hook, the finished Pikmin should stand approximately 5 to 6 inches tall, including the stem and leaf. If you use a smaller hook or thinner yarn, your Pikmin will come out smaller, which can be adorable for a miniature version. A larger hook and bulkier yarn will give you a bigger, chunkier Pikmin perfect for hugging.


The Pattern

Part One: The Body

The body is worked from the bottom up in continuous rounds. Use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of each round.

Round 1: Start with a magic ring. Work 6 sc into the ring. Pull tight to close. (6 sts)

Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)

Round 3: [Sc 1, inc] 6 times. (18 sts)

Round 4: [Sc 2, inc] 6 times. (24 sts)

Round 5: [Sc 3, inc] 6 times. (30 sts)

Round 6: [Sc 4, inc] 6 times. (36 sts)

Rounds 7–12: Sc in each st around. (36 sts) — 6 rounds even

Before you continue, this is the time to attach your safety eyes. Position them between rounds 9 and 10, approximately 6 to 7 stitches apart from each other. If you’re giving your Pikmin a slight personality tilt, placing the eyes just a touch asymmetrically can give them that charming, curious Pikmin look. Once you’re happy with placement, secure the safety eyes from the inside.

Round 13: [Sc 4, dec] 6 times. (30 sts)

Round 14: [Sc 3, dec] 6 times. (24 sts)

Begin stuffing your Pikmin now. Add polyfill gradually as you continue decreasing, making sure to stuff firmly but not so tightly that the body becomes misshapen.

Round 15: [Sc 2, dec] 6 times. (18 sts)

Round 16: [Sc 1, dec] 6 times. (12 sts)

Round 17: Dec 6 times. (6 sts)

Finish stuffing the body, then fasten off, leaving a tail. Use your yarn needle to weave through the front loops of the remaining 6 stitches, pull tight to close, and weave in the end securely.


Part Two: The Legs (Make Two)

Pikmin have those iconic little stick legs that give them their endearing, slightly wobbly stance. These are worked as small tubes.

Round 1: Start with a magic ring. Work 6 sc into the ring. (6 sts)

Rounds 2–6: Sc in each st around. (6 sts) — 5 rounds even

Fasten off the first leg, leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not fasten off the second leg — you’ll continue by joining the legs together if desired, or simply sew both onto the body separately.

Stuff the legs lightly, just enough to give them a little structure without making them stiff. Attach the legs to the bottom of the body, positioned approximately 5 to 6 stitches apart from each other. The legs should hang down naturally and create the slight lean that gives Pikmin their personality.


Part Three: The Arms (Make Two)

Pikmin arms are even smaller than the legs — just tiny little appendages that add to their cuteness.

Round 1: Start with a magic ring. Work 5 sc into the ring. (5 sts)

Rounds 2–4: Sc in each st around. (5 sts) — 3 rounds even

Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. No stuffing is needed for the arms — they’re small enough to lay flat. Attach them to the upper sides of the body, roughly at round 10 to 11, angling them slightly downward and outward for that classic Pikmin look.


Part Four: The Stem and Leaf

This is the most iconic part of the Pikmin — the stem that sprouts from the top of its head, topped with either a leaf bud, or a flower depending on the Pikmin’s growth stage. This pattern covers the leaf version, which is the most common and recognizable. For flower-topped Pikmin, see the variation note at the end of the pattern.

Stem:

Using green yarn:

Round 1: Start with a magic ring. Work 4 sc into the ring. (4 sts)

Rounds 2–8: Sc in each st around. (4 sts) — 7 rounds even

Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Do not stuff the stem — it will hold its shape better when left empty. Set aside.

Leaf:

Using green yarn:

Row 1: Ch 2. Sc in second ch from hook. Turn. (1 st)

Row 2: Ch 1. Inc in the st. Turn. (2 sts)

Row 3: Ch 1. Inc, sc 1. Turn. (3 sts)

Row 4: Ch 1. Sc across. Turn. (3 sts)

Row 5: Ch 1. Dec, sc 1. Turn. (2 sts)

Row 6: Ch 1. Dec. Turn. (1 st)

Row 7: Sl st to finish.

Border round: Work a sc border around the entire leaf, working 2 sc into corners to keep it flat. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Make two leaves for a full, lush stem topper. Sew the leaves to the top of the stem, positioning them on opposite sides so they fan outward naturally. Then sew the completed stem assembly firmly to the very top center of the Pikmin’s head.


Part Five: Eye Details

If you’d like to add that extra spark of life to your Pikmin’s face, cut two tiny ovals from white felt and glue or stitch them onto the upper portion of each safety eye as a light reflection. This small detail makes a surprisingly big difference in bringing your Pikmin to life.

Some crafters also like to embroider a tiny curved mouth below the eyes using dark brown or black embroidery floss. A simple U-shape gives a happy expression, while a straight horizontal stitch reads as determined or focused — just like the Pikmin in the games.


Color Variations for Different Pikmin Types

One of the most delightful things about making Pikmin amigurumi is that once you have the base pattern down, you can quickly produce an entire squad just by changing colors and making small adjustments. Here’s a quick guide to the main Pikmin types.

Red Pikmin are the most recognizable — work the body in bright red yarn and give them a pointy nose if you want to be accurate. You can embroider a small triangle of slightly darker red or pink at the center-front of the face.

Yellow Pikmin call for golden yellow yarn and their distinctive oversized ears. Make two oval or rounded triangular ear shapes and attach them to the sides of the head before adding the stem. Yellow Pikmin also traditionally carry items, so you could add a tiny crocheted bomb rock or other accessory.

Blue Pikmin are worked in a bright medium blue. Their unique feature is their mouth, which you can suggest with a slightly wider embroidered smile to reference their aquatic traits.

Purple Pikmin are stockier and rounder than other Pikmin types. To replicate this, add an extra increase round to the body and make the legs slightly shorter and wider — perhaps starting with 8 stitches in the magic ring for the legs instead of 6.

White Pikmin are worked in white or off-white yarn with striking red embroidered eyes or red safety eyes instead of black. They’re lean and wiry, so consider omitting one even round from the body to make them a touch slimmer.

Rock Pikmin, introduced in Pikmin 3, have a wonderfully chunky, faceted appearance. Work the body in grey or dark charcoal yarn and consider adding slight angular texture by working in the back loops only for a round or two to suggest a rocky surface.

Winged Pikmin are pink and require the addition of small crocheted wings, which you can create using the same basic leaf construction from the stem but worked in a pale pink or white yarn and shaped into two gentle wing forms attached to the upper back.


Tips for the Best Results

Tension is everything in amigurumi. A tighter tension gives you cleaner shapes and prevents stuffing from peeking through the fabric. If you find your stitches are too loose, drop down half a hook size.

When stuffing, less is more for the arms and legs, but the body benefits from being stuffed fairly firmly so it holds its round shape proudly. If your finished Pikmin seems a little floppy, carefully open a few stitches at the top, add more stuffing, and close it back up.

When sewing parts onto the body — legs, arms, and stem — take your time and use mattress stitch or whip stitch for a secure attachment. Going through the body once isn’t enough; reinforce each attachment point with multiple passes of yarn to make sure your Pikmin can withstand enthusiastic handling.

Use a thread lock or a tiny dab of crafter’s glue on safety eye washers if this Pikmin will be given to a child under three years old, or simply substitute the safety eyes with embroidered eyes to make the toy fully child-safe.

Blocking is optional but can make a big difference in the finished look, particularly for the leaf. Lightly mist the leaf with water, shape it with your fingers, and let it dry flat.


Displaying and Gifting Your Pikmin

Crocheted Pikmin make wonderful gifts for any Nintendo fan. They’re universally beloved, recognizable to anyone who’s played the games, and charming even to people who haven’t. A set of all five original Pikmin colors arranged together makes a stunning display, and a full Pikmin 4 squad with the newer additions takes the project to a whole other level of dedication.

If you’re selling your finished Pikmin amigurumi, please note that this pattern is free for personal use. Items made from the pattern may be sold in small quantities as handmade goods, but please credit Ami Amour as the pattern designer. The pattern itself may not be resold or redistributed.


A Final Note from Ami Amour

Designing this Pikmin amigurumi pattern was a pure joy from start to finish. There’s something so deeply satisfying about translating a beloved video game character into something soft and tangible that you can hold in your hands. Pikmin, with their bravery, their loyalty, and their little leaf hats, deserve to exist in yarn form, and we hope this pattern brings a little bit of that Nintendo magic into your craft space.

If you make a Pikmin using this pattern, we would absolutely love to see it. Share your finished project on Instagram or Pinterest and tag Ami Amour so we can admire your work. Every Pikmin made from this pattern is unique — your color choices, your tension, your eye placement — and that’s what makes handmade crafts so special.

Happy crocheting, and may your Pikmin always find their way back to the ship before sunset.


Pattern by Ami Amour. Free for personal use. Please do not redistribute without credit.

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Toys,

Last Update: August 16, 2026

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