Knitting Baby Bunny Pattern — 10”/25cm: A Complete Step-by-Step Guide
There is something timeless about a hand-knitted toy. Long after shop-bought gifts have been forgotten or outgrown, a lovingly made stuffed animal tends to stick around — tucked into a keepsake box, propped on a shelf, or still clutched by a child who never quite let go. A knitted baby bunny sits at the very top of that category. It is small enough to be an achievable project for an intermediate knitter, detailed enough to feel like a genuine accomplishment, and universally adored by babies, toddlers, and the adults who make them.
This pattern creates a sitting baby bunny measuring approximately 10 inches or 25 centimetres tall when stuffed. It is a satisfying size — substantial enough to be a proper toy but compact enough to tuck into a nappy bag or a cot corner. Whether you are making it as a baby shower gift, a first Christmas present, or simply because you want to, this guide walks you through every step with clear instructions, helpful tips, and notes on how to customise the finished bunny to make it your own.
Materials You Will Need
Before casting on, gather everything on this list. Having your materials ready from the start prevents the frustration of stopping mid-project to hunt down a stitch marker or realise you are short on stuffing.
Yarn: Approximately 100–120 grams of DK weight (light worsted) yarn in your main colour. A soft, washable yarn is strongly recommended — something like a merino blend, a cotton-acrylic mix, or a baby-specific yarn. Since this bunny is intended for a baby or young child, choose a yarn that is machine washable, hypoallergenic if possible, and free of loose fibres that could shed. Classic neutrals like oat, cream, pale grey, and dusty pink are perennially popular, but there is no wrong choice here.
You will also need a small amount of a contrast colour for any details you choose to add, such as a belly panel, inner ears, or a little tail. Around 15–20 grams will be more than enough.
Needles: A set of 3.5mm (US size 4) double-pointed needles or a short circular needle if you prefer working in the round. Some knitters prefer to work flat and seam; either method works, and where it matters the pattern notes will mention both approaches.
Additional tools: Stitch markers, a tapestry needle or blunt darning needle for seaming and weaving in ends, toy stuffing (polyester fibrefill works well; choose a toy-safe brand), and small safety eyes in 9mm or 10mm if you intend to use them. Read the safety note on eyes below before deciding.
Safety note on eyes: Safety eyes are not recommended for babies under three years old or for any child who still mouths toys. For very young recipients, embroider the eyes instead using black or dark brown yarn. Embroidered eyes are softer, completely safe, and honestly give the bunny a great deal of charm.
Gauge and Sizing
Working at a gauge of approximately 22 stitches and 30 rows to 10cm / 4 inches in stocking stitch on 3.5mm needles will produce a bunny of about 25cm / 10 inches tall when stuffed. Gauge is more flexible in toy knitting than in garment knitting, since the finished measurement does not need to fit a body precisely. That said, if your tension is significantly looser than stated, your bunny will come out larger and the fabric may be too open, allowing stuffing to show through. If your tension is tighter, the bunny will be smaller and firmer. Both outcomes can be perfectly lovely — just something to be aware of.
Abbreviations Used in This Pattern
CO — cast on
BO — bind off (cast off)
k — knit
p — purl
kfb — knit into the front and back of the stitch (one stitch increased)
k2tog — knit two stitches together (one stitch decreased)
ssk — slip, slip, knit (one stitch decreased, leans left)
st(s) — stitch(es)
st st — stocking stitch (knit on RS, purl on WS)
RS — right side
WS — wrong side
PM — place marker
SM — slip marker
Rnd — round
Part One: The Body
The body is worked from the bottom upward in the round, beginning with the base and increasing to the widest point before shaping in toward the neck.
CO 8 sts and join to work in the round, being careful not to twist. PM to mark beginning of round.
Rnd 1: Knit all sts.
Rnd 2: (kfb) repeat to end — 16 sts.
Rnd 3: Knit.
Rnd 4: (kfb, k1) repeat to end — 24 sts.
Rnd 5: Knit.
Rnd 6: (kfb, k2) repeat to end — 32 sts.
Rnd 7: Knit.
Rnd 8: (kfb, k3) repeat to end — 40 sts.
Rnd 9: Knit.
Rnd 10: (kfb, k4) repeat to end — 48 sts.
Work even on these 48 sts for 20 rounds, or until the body measures approximately 9cm / 3.5 inches from the base.
Begin decreases:
Next rnd: (k2tog, k4) repeat to end — 40 sts.
Knit 2 rounds.
Next rnd: (k2tog, k3) repeat to end — 32 sts.
Knit 2 rounds.
Next rnd: (k2tog, k2) repeat to end — 24 sts.
Knit 1 round.
Next rnd: (k2tog, k1) repeat to end — 16 sts.
Stuff the body firmly at this point, pushing the filling well into the base and keeping the shape rounded. Leave the 16 stitches live on your needle and set aside.
Part Two: The Head
The head is worked separately in the round, beginning at the top and worked downward, or beginning at the neck opening and worked upward to a closed top — whichever you find more intuitive. The instructions below work from the top down.
CO 8 sts and join in the round.
Rnd 1: Knit.
Rnd 2: (kfb) repeat to end — 16 sts.
Rnd 3: Knit.
Rnd 4: (kfb, k1) repeat to end — 24 sts.
Rnd 5: Knit.
Rnd 6: (kfb, k2) repeat to end — 32 sts.
Rnd 7: Knit.
Rnd 8: (kfb, k3) repeat to end — 40 sts.
Work even for 16 rounds, or until the head measures approximately 7cm / 2.75 inches from the crown.
Shape the muzzle:
The bunny’s muzzle is a subtle protrusion at the front of the head. You can create this with short rows or by adding a small separate muzzle piece and sewing it on after. The sewn-on approach is easier and very effective.
Continue on all 40 sts:
Next rnd: (k2tog, k3) repeat to end — 32 sts.
Knit 2 rounds.
Next rnd: (k2tog, k2) repeat to end — 24 sts.
Knit 1 round.
Stuff the head firmly, shaping it into a round sphere. Graft the remaining stitches closed using Kitchener stitch, or draw the yarn through all remaining sts and pull tight to close, then weave in the end securely on the inside.
Part Three: The Muzzle
CO 12 sts. Work in stocking stitch flat for 6 rows. Thread yarn through all sts and draw up to form a small oval puff. This muzzle piece will be sewn onto the lower front of the head.
Once attached and before closing completely, add a tiny pinch of stuffing inside to give it a soft, rounded look. Sew it on firmly. Using black yarn or embroidery floss, stitch a small Y-shape on the muzzle to suggest a nose and mouth.
Part Four: The Ears
The ears are worked flat and seamed. Make two in your main colour, and optionally two slightly smaller inner ear pieces in a contrast colour.
Outer ear (make 2):
CO 8 sts.
Row 1 (RS): Knit.
Row 2 (WS): Purl.
Repeat these two rows (stocking stitch) for 10 rows total.
Row 11: k1, ssk, k2, k2tog, k1 — 6 sts.
Row 12: Purl.
Row 13: k1, ssk, k2tog, k1 — 4 sts.
Row 14: Purl.
Row 15: ssk, k2tog — 2 sts.
Row 16: p2tog. Fasten off.
Inner ear (make 2, optional):
CO 6 sts and work the same pattern, starting the decreases two rows earlier. Work in your contrast colour.
Sew the inner ear to the front of the outer ear using mattress stitch or whipstitch around the edges, keeping the base open for a little pinch of structure. Fold the base of each ear slightly inward before attaching to the head, which gives them that lovely floppy, natural shape real rabbit ears have.
Position the ears toward the top and slightly back of the head, and sew them on firmly. For a more upright bunny, sew them straight. For a floppy-eared look, attach them more loosely at the base so they drape to the sides.
Part Five: The Arms and Legs
Arms (make 2):
CO 8 sts and join in the round.
Knit every round for 18 rounds, or until the arm measures approximately 6cm / 2.5 inches.
Next rnd: (k2tog) to end — 4 sts. Draw yarn through and pull tight to close. Stuff lightly before closing. Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing.
Legs (make 2):
The legs are slightly wider and shorter than the arms, giving the bunny its seated posture.
CO 10 sts and join in the round.
Knit every round for 14 rounds, or until the leg measures approximately 5cm / 2 inches.
Next rnd: (k2tog, k1) repeat, ending k1 — reduce to 7 sts. Draw yarn through remaining sts and close. Stuff lightly before closing. Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing.
Part Six: The Tail
The tail is a small pompom or a simple gathered circle. For a knitted tail, CO 16 sts, join in the round, knit 6 rounds, then (k2tog) around to 8 sts, then draw yarn through all sts and stuff before closing. The result is a perfect round bobble.
Attach the tail to the centre back of the body near the base.
Assembling the Bunny
Assembly is where everything comes together, and it is worth taking your time here. A well-assembled bunny will be sturdy, symmetrical, and pleasing to look at.
Begin by attaching the head to the body. Position the head so it sits slightly forward — this gives the bunny a more natural, attentive expression. Using a double strand of your main colour yarn and a tapestry needle, sew around the neck opening several times, going through both the head base and the top of the body. Pull firmly and check the alignment before fastening off.
Next, attach the legs. Position them symmetrically on either side of the body base, angled slightly outward so that the bunny sits stably. Sew through from one side to the other if you like — pulling the needle through the body interior creates a sunken, soft-toy joint effect that looks very professional.
Attach the arms in the same way, positioning them roughly at shoulder height on the sides of the body.
Add the muzzle, then embroider or attach the eyes. If embroidering, a simple set of horizontal stitches or small ovals in dark yarn work beautifully. If you are using safety eyes, insert them and fix the washers before the head is fully closed.
Finally, add any finishing embellishments — a small ribbon bow tied around the neck is a beloved classic, a tiny crocheted flower tucked behind one ear, or even a little knitted scarf if you want to go all out.
Tips for a Beautiful Finish
Stuffing makes an enormous difference to the final result. Underfill and your bunny will be floppy and shapeless; overfill and it will feel hard and the fabric will stretch to show the stuffing underneath. Aim for a firm but yielding feel — squeeze it and it should spring back gently.
Blocking is not strictly necessary for a stuffed toy, but if your finished pieces look a bit uneven before seaming, a light steam or a gentle damp block will even things out considerably.
If you are giving the bunny as a gift, adding a small tag with washing instructions is a thoughtful touch. Most DK weight acrylic or merino blends can be hand washed in cool water and laid flat to dry — always check the specific yarn label.
Customising Your Knitted Baby Bunny
One of the great joys of knitting your own toys is the freedom to customise. A few ideas to spark your imagination: swap the contrast inner ears for a pop of unexpected colour — a pale bunny with terracotta inner ears looks very stylish. Try working the body in a subtle stripe pattern using two shades of the same colour family. Knit a tiny carrot from orange yarn for your bunny to hold. Add a small felt heart to the bunny’s chest for a Valentine’s variation. Use a variegated or self-striping yarn for the body to create an organic, watercolour effect without any extra work.
The 10-inch size also lends itself beautifully to being made as a set — a mama bunny and a smaller 6-inch baby bunny make an unforgettable gift, and the smaller version simply uses the same pattern with fewer increase rounds.
A Word on Yarn Choices
If you are making this bunny for a newborn, it is worth investing in the softest yarn you can find. Babies have sensitive skin, and while acrylic is perfectly safe, a merino or merino-blend will feel noticeably softer against delicate cheeks. Brands like Paintbox Simply DK, Drops Baby Merino, Stylecraft Bambino, and Cascade 220 Superwash are all popular choices in the toy-making community, each offering a good balance of softness, durability, and washability.
For a bunny that will be displayed rather than played with, cotton yarn gives a beautiful crisp stitch definition and a lovely matte finish. It is less stretchy than wool, which actually makes assembly easier in some respects.
Frequently Asked Questions
How long does this pattern take to knit? Most knitters working at a relaxed pace complete this bunny over two to three evenings, or across a weekend. If you are newer to toy knitting, allow a little extra time for the assembly stage.
Can I use chunky yarn instead? Yes, though the finished bunny will be larger and the fabric will be stretchier. If you go up to chunky weight, consider going down a needle size to keep the fabric tight enough that stuffing does not show through.
Is this pattern suitable for a beginner? It is an excellent second or third project. If you are comfortable with knitting in the round, basic increases and decreases, and simple seaming, you will manage this pattern comfortably.
Can I sell toys made from this pattern? This is a free pattern shared for personal and small-scale craft use. If you plan to sell the finished toys commercially, please use your own judgement around the relevant regulations for toy safety in your country, as handmade toys sold commercially are subject to specific standards depending on your location.
There is a particular kind of satisfaction that comes from finishing a
