Knit the Juno Dog Jumper: Free Knitting Pattern
There is something undeniably wonderful about making something by hand for the creatures we love most. Dogs have a way of becoming the heartbeat of a home, and when the colder months roll in, it feels only natural to want to keep them as cosy and comfortable as possible. If you have ever wanted to knit a jumper for your dog but felt intimidated by complicated patterns or expensive yarn requirements, this is the project for you. The Juno Dog Jumper is a free knitting pattern designed to be beginner-friendly, satisfying to work through, and genuinely adorable on your furry companion.
Whether your dog is a tiny chihuahua who shivers at the first hint of autumn or a medium-sized whippet who simply refuses to step outside without being dressed for the occasion, this pattern can be adapted to suit a range of sizes. So brew yourself a cup of tea, dig out your needles, and let’s get started.
Why Knit a Dog Jumper?
Before we dive into the pattern itself, it is worth taking a moment to appreciate why hand-knitted dog jumpers are worth the effort at all. After all, there are plenty of shop-bought dog coats and jumpers available at various price points. So what makes knitting one yourself so special?
First, there is the fit. Every dog is shaped differently. A dachshund has a very different body ratio to a Labrador. A pug’s barrel chest is nothing like a greyhound’s deep, narrow torso. When you knit a jumper yourself, you can take precise measurements of your own dog and adjust the pattern accordingly, resulting in a garment that actually fits well rather than bunching around the neck or slipping off the shoulders.
Second, there is the quality of the materials. When you choose the yarn yourself, you know exactly what is going to sit against your dog’s skin. You can opt for soft, natural fibres that are gentle and non-irritating, avoiding the scratchy synthetic materials that can be found in cheaper commercial pet wear.
Third, and perhaps most importantly, there is the joy of making. There is a particular kind of pleasure that comes from watching something grow stitch by stitch under your hands, and when the finished object ends up on a wagging dog who trots around the house looking enormously pleased with themselves, the satisfaction is genuinely hard to beat.
Materials You Will Need
Getting your materials together before you start is always a good idea, and for the Juno Dog Jumper the list is refreshingly simple.
You will need approximately 100 to 200 grams of aran weight yarn, depending on the size of your dog. A yarn with some natural fibre content — such as wool, alpaca, or a wool-acrylic blend — is ideal because it provides warmth without being stiff or heavy. Avoid anything too chunky or too fine; aran weight gives you a nice, substantial fabric that holds its shape well and knits up quickly enough to keep the project feeling rewarding.
For needles, you will want a pair of 5mm straight needles or a 5mm circular needle if you prefer to knit in the round. A circular needle of 40cm or 60cm length works very well for this pattern and eliminates most of the seaming at the end.
You will also need a tapestry or darning needle for finishing, a couple of stitch markers to keep track of your rounds or rows, and a tape measure for taking your dog’s measurements and checking your gauge.
Optionally, you might want a row counter, especially if you tend to lose track of where you are in a pattern. A small amount of waste yarn in a contrasting colour can also be useful for holding stitches.
Taking Your Dog’s Measurements
This is arguably the most important step in the entire process, and it is one that many knitters skip or rush through, which is why so many hand-knitted dog jumpers end up sitting in a drawer unworn. Spend five minutes with your dog and a tape measure, and you will save yourself hours of frustration later.
The measurements you need are as follows.
The back length is the distance from the base of your dog’s neck — roughly where a collar would sit — to the base of their tail. Measure along the spine with your dog standing naturally.
The chest circumference is the measurement around the widest part of your dog’s chest, just behind the front legs. This is the most critical measurement for fit.
The neck circumference is the measurement around your dog’s neck, again at the point where the collar would sit. Add a couple of centimetres of ease here so the jumper is comfortable to put on and take off.
The leg hole depth is the distance from where the front leg meets the body down to the chest measurement line. This determines how large the armholes need to be.
Once you have these measurements written down, you can use them to select the right size from the pattern and make any necessary adjustments.
Gauge and Why It Matters
Gauge is one of those knitting concepts that beginners often overlook, but for a wearable item like a dog jumper it is genuinely important. Gauge refers to the number of stitches and rows per centimetre or inch that you achieve with a particular yarn and needle combination. If your gauge is off, even slightly, your finished jumper could end up significantly too small or too large.
To check your gauge, cast on around 20 stitches and work in the stitch pattern specified in the pattern for about 10 centimetres. Cast off loosely, lay your swatch flat without stretching it, and count the number of stitches across 10 centimetres. For the Juno Dog Jumper worked in aran weight yarn on 5mm needles, you are aiming for approximately 18 stitches and 24 rows to 10 centimetres in stocking stitch.
If you have more stitches than that, your tension is too tight and you should try going up a needle size. If you have fewer stitches, your tension is too loose and you should try going down a needle size. The yarn and needle size suggestions in any pattern are always a starting point rather than a rule, because everyone’s hands knit differently.
Pattern Sizes
The Juno Dog Jumper pattern is written in four sizes to cover a range of small to medium dogs.
Size one suits dogs with a back length of approximately 25 centimetres and a chest circumference of 30 to 35 centimetres. This fits very small dogs such as chihuahuas, toy terriers, and miniature dachshunds.
Size two suits dogs with a back length of approximately 33 centimetres and a chest circumference of 38 to 45 centimetres. This works well for small dogs such as miniature schnauzers, Jack Russell terriers, and small French bulldogs.
Size three suits dogs with a back length of approximately 40 centimetres and a chest circumference of 48 to 55 centimetres. This is appropriate for medium dogs such as cocker spaniels, whippets, border terriers, and pugs.
Size four suits dogs with a back length of approximately 50 centimetres and a chest circumference of 58 to 65 centimetres. This works for larger medium dogs such as standard schnauzers, small Labradoodles, and Staffordshire bull terriers.
Throughout the pattern, stitches for each size are given in order separated by forward slashes: size one / size two / size three / size four.
The Juno Dog Jumper Free Knitting Pattern
Abbreviations
Before beginning the pattern, familiarise yourself with the following abbreviations.
CO means cast on. K means knit. P means purl. K2tog means knit two stitches together, which creates a right-leaning decrease. Ssk means slip, slip, knit — a left-leaning decrease. M1L means make one left, a left-leaning increase. M1R means make one right, a right-leaning increase. St or sts means stitch or stitches. RS means right side. WS means wrong side. Rep means repeat. PM means place marker. SM means slip marker.
Construction Notes
The Juno Dog Jumper is worked flat in rows from the neck down. The body is worked in one piece, with the leg holes created by casting off and casting back on. The ribbed neck, leg bands, and body hem are all worked as part of the main piece, so there is minimal finishing required. You will need to seam only the short underside of the chest if you work the pattern flat.
The Neck Ribbing
Using 5mm needles, cast on 28 / 32 / 38 / 44 stitches.
Row 1 (RS): K2, P2, repeat to end.
Row 2 (WS): P2, K2, repeat to end.
Repeat these two rows until the neck ribbing measures 4 / 5 / 5 / 6 centimetres from the cast-on edge. End on a wrong side row.
Setting Up the Yoke
Next row (RS): K across, placing a marker after stitch 7 / 8 / 9 / 11 and again after stitch 21 / 24 / 29 / 33. These markers separate the side sections from the centre back section and will guide your shaping increases.
Next row (WS): P across, slipping markers as you come to them.
Yoke Increases
Row 1 (RS — increase row): K to 1 stitch before first marker, M1R, K1, SM, K1, M1L, K to 1 stitch before second marker, M1R, K1, SM, K1, M1L, K to end. (4 stitches increased)
Row 2 (WS): P across.
Repeat rows 1 and 2 a further 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 times. You should now have 52 / 60 / 70 / 80 stitches.
Body Section
Continue working in stocking stitch, knitting on right side rows and purling on wrong side rows, without any further increases, until the piece measures 14 / 18 / 22 / 27 centimetres from the base of the neck ribbing. End on a wrong side row.
Creating the Leg Holes
At this point you will divide the work to create the front leg openings.
Next row (RS): K8 / 9 / 11 / 13, cast off 6 / 7 / 8 / 9 stitches, K until 14 / 16 / 19 / 22 stitches remain after the second gap, cast off 6 / 7 / 8 / 9 stitches, K to end.
Next row (WS): P8 / 9 / 11 / 13, turn work, cast on 6 / 7 / 8 / 9 stitches using the backward loop method, turn work back, P across the centre stitches, cast on 6 / 7 / 8 / 9 stitches in the same way, P to end. Your original stitch count is restored.
Leg Band Ribbing
Work 4 rows of K2, P2 rib across all stitches to create a tidy edging around the leg openings.
After working the leg band ribbing, return to stocking stitch and continue until the body measures 22 / 28 / 35 / 43 centimetres from the base of the neck ribbing. End on a wrong side row.
Shaping the Chest
Row 1 (RS): K1, ssk, K to last 3 stitches, K2tog, K1. (2 stitches decreased)
Row 2 (WS): P across.
Repeat these two rows a further 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 times. You should now have 44 / 50 / 58 / 66 stitches.
Hem Ribbing
Work 6 rows of K2, P2 rib across all remaining stitches.
Cast off loosely in rib pattern.
Finishing
Weave in all ends carefully using your tapestry needle. If you worked the piece flat, seam the short cast-on edges of the neck ribbing together using mattress stitch to close the neck tube. Block the jumper gently by spritzing with water, laying it flat to the correct measurements, and leaving it to dry fully before putting it on your dog.
Tips for a Perfect Fit
A few small adjustments can make a big difference to the finished result. If your dog has a particularly deep chest, you can add extra rows in the body section before creating the leg holes. If the neck seems loose when you try the jumper on your dog, you can pick up stitches around the neck edge and work a few additional rows of ribbing before casting off.
For dogs who are sensitive about having things put over their heads, you can add a short button band opening at the back neck. Simply work the first and last few stitches of the neck ribbing in a contrasting colour or leave a small gap that can be fastened with a button or two.
If you want to add a decorative element, stripes are the easiest way to make the Juno Dog Jumper feel personalised. Simply change colour at the start of a new right side row and carry the yarn not in use loosely up the side of the work. A narrow two-row stripe in a contrasting colour looks beautiful and adds very little extra time to the project.
Washing and Care
Hand-knitted items need a little more care than machine-made ones, but it need not be complicated. Most aran weight yarns with some wool content can be hand-washed in cool water with a small amount of wool wash or gentle detergent. Press out the excess water gently — never wring — and lay the jumper flat to dry away from direct heat or sunlight.
If you have chosen a superwash wool or a wool-acrylic blend, you may find that a cool machine wash on a delicate cycle is perfectly safe. Always check the ball band of your specific yarn for the manufacturer’s washing instructions.
Dog jumpers pick up smells, hair, and the occasional roll in something unmentionable, so it is worth making the washing process as easy as possible from the outset by choosing a practical, easy-care yarn.
Making It Your Own
One of the greatest pleasures of a free pattern is the freedom it gives you to experiment. The Juno Dog Jumper is written in plain stocking stitch, which makes it an ideal canvas for additions and modifications. You might try working the body in a simple 2×2 rib for extra stretch and a slightly different look. You might introduce a cable panel down the centre back for a classic, elegant feel. You might even try working the whole thing in a seed stitch or moss stitch texture for something a little more tactile and rustic.
Colour work is another option for the more adventurous knitter. A simple Fair Isle band around the chest section would look extraordinary, and because the dog jumper is a small project, even a complicated colourwork chart works up relatively quickly and without the wrist fatigue that can come with larger colourwork garments.
Sharing Your Make
Once your Juno Dog Jumper is finished and on your dog, do share it with the wider knitting community. There is a wonderful, warm-hearted community of knitters online who genuinely love to see finished objects, especially when those finished objects involve a very pleased-looking dog. Tag your photos on social media with a relevant hashtag so other knitters can find your version and be inspired to make their own.
If you have made any modifications to the pattern, leave a note about what you changed and why. This kind of practical, real-world information is invaluable to other knitters who might have a dog of a similar shape or size to yours and are wondering whether the same adjustments might work for them.
The Juno Dog Jumper is one of those patterns that rewards the time you put into it many times over. It is quick enough to finish in an evening or two, simple enough for a confident beginner, and the end result is something genuinely useful and genuinely lovely. Your dog may take a moment to adjust to the idea of wearing it — some dogs are immediately delighted, others regard knitwear with an air of dignified suspicion — but once the jumper is on and the warmth sets in, most dogs settle into it happily.
Happy knitting, and give your dog a pat from us.
