Knit a Cute Bunny: Free Pattern!

There is something timeless about a hand-knitted toy. It carries warmth in a way that mass-produced plush animals simply cannot replicate — the hours spent looping yarn, the small adjustments made to get the ears just right, the moment you stuff the body and watch a flat piece of knitting transform into something that looks almost alive. A knitted bunny sits at the center of that magic. Whether you are making it for a baby shower, an Easter basket, a child’s birthday, or simply because you love to knit and bunnies are undeniably wonderful, this free pattern will walk you through every step.

This pattern is designed with beginner-friendly techniques in mind, though intermediate knitters will find plenty of room to personalize. You will work mostly in the round on double-pointed needles or a short circular needle, with a few flat seamed pieces for the ears. The finished bunny stands approximately 8 to 10 inches tall, depending on your yarn weight and tension, making it the perfect cuddle size for small hands. All you need is a bit of patience, a small amount of yarn, and an afternoon or two.

Let’s get started.

Materials You Will Need

Before you cast on, gather your supplies. Having everything within reach makes the knitting process smoother and more enjoyable.

Yarn: Approximately 100 to 150 yards of worsted weight yarn in your chosen body color, plus a small amount of a contrasting color if you want a belly panel or inner ears. Soft, washable yarn is ideal for toys since they tend to get a lot of use — look for yarns labeled “machine washable” or baby-safe if the bunny is destined for a young child. Some lovely options include merino wool blends, cotton-acrylic blends, or dedicated amigurumi-style yarns.

Needles: US size 5 (3.75mm) double-pointed needles (set of 5) or a 9-inch circular needle for magic loop. You may also want a straight or circular needle in the same size for knitting the ears flat.

Notions: Stitch markers, a tapestry needle for seaming and weaving in ends, polyester fiberfill stuffing, safety eyes (12mm) if the bunny is intended for adults or older children, or yarn embroidered eyes for babies and children under three years old, and optional embroidery thread or yarn in black or brown for the nose and mouth.

Gauge: Approximately 20 stitches and 28 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch. Gauge does not need to be exact for a toy, but a tighter gauge than usual will help prevent the stuffing from showing through the fabric. If your stitches look loose and you can see gaps, try going down a needle size.

Abbreviations and Techniques

This pattern uses standard knitting abbreviations. Here is a quick reference:

CO — cast on. BO — bind off. k — knit. p — purl. k2tog — knit two stitches together (a right-leaning decrease). ssk — slip, slip, knit (a left-leaning decrease). kfb — knit into the front and back of the same stitch (an increase). pm — place marker. sm — slip marker. m1r — make one right (a right-leaning lifted increase). m1l — make one left (a left-leaning lifted increase). St st — stockinette stitch. RS — right side. WS — wrong side. MC — main color. CC — contrasting color.

The bunny body, head, arms, and legs are all worked in the round in stockinette stitch. The ears are worked flat. If you are new to knitting in the round on double-pointed needles, there are many excellent video tutorials available online, and the technique becomes second nature very quickly.

Pattern Notes

The bunny is knitted in separate pieces and then seamed together at the end. This makes it easier to stuff each section firmly before closing, which gives the finished toy a better shape and more stability. The head is seamed to the body, the arms and legs are seamed on at the sides, and the ears are sewn to the top of the head.

If you prefer a seamless construction, it is possible to adapt some sections, but for this beginner-friendly version, the seamed approach gives the clearest structure.

Read through the entire pattern once before you begin. It always helps to understand where you are heading before you take the first stitch.

The Body

The body is worked bottom-up, starting with the base and increasing outward to form a rounded barrel shape, then decreasing toward the neck.

Cast on: Using MC and your double-pointed needles or circular needle, CO 8 stitches. Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist. Place a marker for the beginning of the round.

Round 1: Knit all stitches.
Round 2: (kfb) around. 16 stitches.
Round 3: Knit.
Round 4: (k1, kfb) around. 24 stitches.
Round 5: Knit.
Round 6: (k2, kfb) around. 32 stitches.
Round 7: Knit.
Round 8: (k3, kfb) around. 40 stitches.
Rounds 9–11: Knit.
Round 12: (k4, kfb) around. 48 stitches.
Rounds 13–28: Knit all rounds (approximately 16 rounds of plain stockinette). This is your body tube. If you want a taller bunny, add more plain rounds here.

Now begin decreasing for the neck:

Round 29: (k4, k2tog) around. 40 stitches.
Round 30: Knit.
Round 31: (k3, k2tog) around. 32 stitches.
Round 32: Knit.
Round 33: (k2, k2tog) around. 24 stitches.

Before you continue, stuff the body firmly with fiberfill. Use a pencil or chopstick to push stuffing into the base so it is nice and round at the bottom. Leave the top open for now.

Round 34: (k1, k2tog) around. 16 stitches.
Round 35: (k2tog) around. 8 stitches.

Cut yarn, leaving a 6-inch tail. Thread through a tapestry needle, draw through remaining stitches, pull snug, and weave in the end. Set the body aside.

The Head

The head is worked the same way as the body but slightly larger, as bunnies have adorably oversized heads relative to their bodies. This gives the finished toy that classic stuffed animal proportion.

Cast on: CO 8 stitches. Join to work in the round.

Round 1: Knit.
Round 2: (kfb) around. 16 stitches.
Round 3: Knit.
Round 4: (k1, kfb) around. 24 stitches.
Round 5: Knit.
Round 6: (k2, kfb) around. 32 stitches.
Round 7: Knit.
Round 8: (k3, kfb) around. 40 stitches.
Round 9: Knit.
Round 10: (k4, kfb) around. 48 stitches.
Rounds 11–22: Knit all rounds (12 rounds of plain stockinette).

Now begin decreasing:

Round 23: (k4, k2tog) around. 40 stitches.
Round 24: Knit.
Round 25: (k3, k2tog) around. 32 stitches.
Round 26: Knit.
Round 27: (k2, k2tog) around. 24 stitches.

If you are using safety eyes, attach them now while the head is still easy to access. Place them on the face area approximately 6 to 7 rows below the widest point, spaced about 12 stitches apart. This gives the bunny a wide-eyed, friendly expression. If you are embroidering the eyes, you will do that after everything is assembled.

Stuff the head firmly.

Round 28: (k1, k2tog) around. 16 stitches.
Round 29: (k2tog) around. 8 stitches.

Cut yarn and close as for the body. Set aside.

The Ears (Make 2)

The ears are the signature feature of any bunny, and these long floppy ears give the toy its unmistakable character. They are worked flat in two pieces for easier shaping.

Cast on: CO 8 stitches in MC.

Row 1 (WS): Purl.
Row 2 (RS): k1, m1l, k6, m1r, k1. 10 stitches.
Row 3: Purl.
Row 4: k1, m1l, k8, m1r, k1. 12 stitches.
Rows 5–25: Work in stockinette stitch without shaping (knit RS rows, purl WS rows). This creates a long ear strip. For shorter, more upright ears, work only 15 rows here.
Row 26: k1, ssk, k6, k2tog, k1. 10 stitches.
Row 27: Purl.
Row 28: k1, ssk, k4, k2tog, k1. 8 stitches.
Row 29: Purl.
Row 30: k1, ssk, k2, k2tog, k1. 6 stitches.
Row 31: Purl.
Row 32: BO all stitches.

For contrast inner ears, cut a piece of CC yarn and using a tapestry needle, duplicate stitch or straight-stitch a long oval down the center of the ear’s right side. Alternatively, you can cast on 4 stitches in CC, work a smaller version of the ear shape (skip the increase rows and work a narrower rectangle), and then seam it to the front of each ear before attaching them to the head.

Fold each ear in half lengthwise so the purl side faces inward, and use your tapestry needle to whip stitch up the sides, leaving the cast-on edge open. Do not stuff the ears — they should remain flat and a little floppy. Flatten the open end and set the ears aside.

The Arms (Make 2)

The arms are small tubes finished with a rounded hand at one end.

Cast on: CO 8 stitches. Join to work in the round.

Round 1: Knit.
Round 2: (kfb) around. 16 stitches.
Rounds 3–14: Knit all rounds (12 rounds of plain stockinette).
Round 15: (k2, k2tog) around. 12 stitches.

Stuff the arm lightly.

Round 16: (k1, k2tog) around. 8 stitches.
Round 17: (k2tog) around. 4 stitches.

Cut yarn and close. Make two.

The Legs (Make 2)

The legs are worked the same way as the arms but slightly longer and with a larger foot.

Cast on: CO 8 stitches. Join to work in the round.

Round 1: Knit.
Round 2: (kfb) around. 16 stitches.
Round 3: Knit.
Round 4: (k1, kfb) around. 24 stitches.
Rounds 5–8: Knit all rounds. This wider section forms the foot.
Round 9: (k1, k2tog) around. 16 stitches.
Rounds 10–22: Knit all rounds (13 rounds of plain stockinette). This is the leg tube.

Stuff the leg firmly, especially the foot area.

Round 23: (k2tog) around. 8 stitches.

Cut yarn and close. Make two.

The Tail

A fluffy little tail is the finishing touch that makes this bunny unmistakable.

Cast on: CO 8 stitches. Join to work in the round.

Round 1: Knit.
Round 2: (kfb) around. 16 stitches.
Rounds 3–5: Knit.
Round 6: (k2tog) around. 8 stitches.

Stuff lightly.

Round 7: (k2tog) around. 4 stitches.

Close and leave a long tail for sewing. The finished tail will be a small, plump pompom-like sphere.

Assembling the Bunny

Assembly is where all the separate pieces come together into a bunny, and while it requires a bit of careful sewing, the result is deeply satisfying.

Begin by seaming the head to the body. Use the long tail left at the neck opening of the body and the closed bottom of the head to position them against each other. The head should sit centered on top of the body, slightly forward so the bunny’s face is angled slightly downward in a natural posture. Pin in place if it helps, then use a mattress stitch or whip stitch to join the two pieces securely all the way around the neck edge. Pull firmly so the seam is tight and the head will not wobble.

Next, attach the ears. Position them on top of the head, spacing them about 8 to 10 stitches apart. The cast-on edge of each ear sits flat against the head. Sew each ear down using a whip stitch around the entire base so that it is firmly attached and sits upright or flops forward naturally depending on your preference.

Attach the arms on either side of the body, approximately 3 to 4 rows below the neck seam. The top of each arm should be level with the shoulder area. Sew through the arm and into the body several times in a circular motion to create a sturdy joint. Some knitters like to give the arms a slight forward angle so they look like the bunny is reaching out for a hug.

Position the legs at the bottom of the body, angled slightly outward so the bunny can sit up on its own. The foot of each leg should protrude forward. Sew them down firmly using the same circular sewing technique.

Finally, attach the tail to the back of the body, centered and about 3 to 4 rows above the bottom base. Sew it on securely so it is round and perky.

If you are embroidering the eyes, use black or dark brown yarn and a tapestry needle to create two small circles or French knots in the eye position. For the nose, make a small upside-down V or Y shape in the center of the face with black or pink embroidery thread. A few straight stitches below the nose can suggest a little smile. These small facial details have an enormous impact on the bunny’s personality, so take your time and try a few placements before committing.

Weave in all remaining ends thoroughly. Turn the bunny this way and that, checking that all seams are secure. Give it a gentle tug at each attachment point — arms, legs, ears, and head — to make sure nothing will come loose.

Tips for a Beautiful Finished Bunny

A few small habits make a big difference in the quality of the finished toy. Always use a smaller needle size than the yarn label suggests when knitting toys. A tighter fabric hides the stuffing better and gives the toy a more professional appearance. When stuffing, fill gradually and check the shape from a distance. It is easy to over-stuff (which creates an oddly stiff toy) or under-stuff (which makes it floppy and shapeless). Aim for a firm but slightly squeezable result — the way a good stuffed animal should feel.

If you are using safety eyes, always attach them before the head is fully closed and stuffed. Once the knitting is stuffed and closed it becomes much harder to work with the eye posts from the inside. Safety eyes are not appropriate for children under three years old due to choking hazards, so for young children, always embroider the features instead.

Blocking is not typically necessary for a stuffed toy, but if your yarn is