
Knit a Bunny: Free Rabbit Knitting Pattern to Love — From Britain with Love
There is something timeless about a handknitted toy. It carries warmth in a way that no factory-made thing ever quite can — the slight irregularities, the specific yarn chosen on a particular afternoon, the hours of quiet work that went into every stitch. A knitted bunny sits at the very heart of that tradition. From nursery shelves in Scottish cottages to Easter baskets in English country gardens, the knitted rabbit has been a beloved companion for generations of children and collectors alike. Today we are sharing a free rabbit knitting pattern that is simple enough for a confident beginner yet satisfying enough for an experienced knitter looking for a rewarding afternoon project. Pull up your favourite chair, put the kettle on, and let’s get started.
Why Knit a Bunny?
Before we dive into the pattern itself, it is worth taking a moment to appreciate just how wonderful a knitted bunny is as a project. It is small enough to complete in a few sittings, it uses only a modest amount of yarn, and the end result is something genuinely beautiful and useful. Handknitted toys make extraordinary gifts for new babies, for toddlers, for Easter, for Christmas, or simply because you feel like giving someone something made with love. They also make charming decorative pieces — a little bunny propped on a bookshelf or nestled in a spring flower arrangement looks utterly delightful.
There is also the deeply satisfying challenge of constructing a three-dimensional creature from flat pieces of knitting. Unlike garments, which are largely about shaping fabric to fit a human body, toy knitting is about sculpture. You are building ears and a plump little body and four stubby limbs entirely from yarn and stuffing and your own two hands. That feels rather magical every single time.
Materials You Will Need
This pattern is written for a finished bunny that measures approximately 25 cm (10 inches) tall when seated. You can scale it up or down by changing your yarn weight and needle size accordingly — a chunky yarn will give you a larger, squishier rabbit, while a fine 4-ply worked on small needles will produce a dainty heirloom piece.
Yarn: Approximately 100g of DK weight yarn in your chosen colour. A warm oatmeal, a soft grey, a classic white, or even a pretty pastel all work beautifully. You will also need a very small amount of a contrast colour for the nose, or you can use an embroidery thread. British yarn lovers might enjoy reaching for a British wool DK such as one from Jamieson’s, West Yorkshire Spinners, or BC Garn — the slight texture of wool gives a lovely finish to toy knitting and helps the stuffing hold its shape.
Needles: 3.5mm (UK size 10 / US size 4) knitting needles, or the size needed to obtain a firm, tight fabric. With toy knitting you want your gauge to be tighter than you might use for a garment; this prevents the stuffing from showing through.
Other supplies: Toy stuffing (polyester fibrefill works well, or you could use carded wool for a more natural option), a tapestry needle for sewing up, two small black safety eyes (8mm is a good size) or black embroidery thread if you are making the toy for a baby, and stitch markers if you find them helpful.
Gauge: Approximately 22 stitches and 30 rows to 10cm over stocking stitch. As noted above, a firm tension is more important here than matching gauge precisely, so do not worry too much about exact measurements.
Abbreviations Used in This Pattern
K — knit
P — purl
St(s) — stitch(es)
SS — stocking stitch (knit on right side, purl on wrong side)
K2tog — knit two stitches together (decrease)
M1 — make one stitch (increase by picking up the bar between stitches and knitting into the back of it)
Kfb — knit into the front and back of the same stitch (increase)
RS — right side
WS — wrong side
CO — cast on
BO — bind off (cast off)
Rep — repeat
Rem — remaining
The Pattern
Body
The body is worked flat and then seamed. Begin at the base.
CO 30 sts.
Row 1 (WS): Purl.
Row 2 (RS): K1, Kfb, K to last 2 sts, Kfb, K1. (32 sts)
Row 3: Purl.
Row 4: K1, Kfb, K to last 2 sts, Kfb, K1. (34 sts)
Row 5: Purl.
Row 6: K1, Kfb, K to last 2 sts, Kfb, K1. (36 sts)
Work straight in SS for 20 rows without any shaping, ending with a WS (purl) row.
Now begin shaping the top of the body.
Next row (RS): K1, K2tog, K to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. (34 sts)
Next row (WS): Purl.
Rep these two rows four more times. (26 sts rem)
Next row (RS): (K1, K2tog) rep to last 2 sts, K2. (18 sts)
Next row (WS): Purl.
Next row (RS): (K2tog) rep to end. (9 sts)
Break yarn, thread through rem 9 sts, draw up tightly and fasten off. This will become the top of the bunny’s head.
Make a second identical piece.
Place both pieces together with right sides facing and sew around the outer edge using mattress stitch or backstitch, leaving the cast-on (bottom) edge open for stuffing. Turn right side out. Stuff the body firmly, particularly around the tummy. Close the bottom seam neatly.
Head
The head is worked in the round if you prefer, or flat and seamed — the pattern is given here as a flat piece, worked in two halves just like the body.
CO 20 sts.
Row 1 (WS): Purl.
Row 2 (RS): K1, Kfb, K to last 2 sts, Kfb, K1. (22 sts)
Row 3: Purl.
Row 4: K1, Kfb, K to last 2 sts, Kfb, K1. (24 sts)
Row 5: Purl.
Row 6: K1, Kfb, K to last 2 sts, Kfb, K1. (26 sts)
Work straight in SS for 12 rows.
Next row (RS): K1, K2tog, K to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. (24 sts)
Next row (WS): Purl.
Rep these two rows three more times. (18 sts)
Next row (RS): (K2tog) rep to end. (9 sts)
Break yarn, thread through rem sts, draw up and fasten off. Make a second piece. Seam as for the body, leaving an opening for stuffing and for attaching to the body. Stuff firmly to give a nice round head. Before closing, position and attach safety eyes if using, placing them roughly in the centre of the face with a gap of about 2 cm between them. Embroider a small triangular nose in pink or brown just below and between the eyes, and add a tiny straight stitch for the mouth.
Ears (Make Two)
CO 8 sts.
Row 1 (WS): Purl.
Work in SS for 14 rows.
Next row (RS): K1, K2tog, K2, K2tog, K1. (6 sts)
Next row (WS): Purl.
Next row (RS): K1, K2tog, K2tog, K1. (4 sts)
Next row (WS): P2tog, P2tog. (2 sts)
K2tog and fasten off.
Fold each ear in half lengthways with right side out and use a tapestry needle and yarn to whipstitch along the long side, leaving the cast-on end open. You do not need to stuff the ears. Pinch the base of each ear slightly to give a gentle curve and sew firmly to the top of the head. Traditional rabbits have their ears set quite close together and standing upright; for a floppy-eared bunny, simply attach them so they fall to the sides of the head and do not stitch the tips upward.
Arms (Make Two)
CO 8 sts.
Work in SS for 16 rows.
Next row (RS): K1, K2tog, K2, K2tog, K1. (6 sts)
Next row (WS): Purl.
Next row (RS): K1, K2tog, K2tog, K1. (4 sts)
Next row (WS): P2tog, P2tog. (2 sts)
K2tog and fasten off.
Fold each arm piece in half, seam along the long edge and the curved end, stuff very lightly (arms that are too firmly stuffed can pull the seams at the shoulder), and sew the cast-on edges closed. Attach to the sides of the body at a slight downward angle so the arms rest naturally against the tummy.
Legs (Make Two)
CO 12 sts.
Row 1 (WS): Purl.
Row 2 (RS): K1, Kfb, K to last 2 sts, Kfb, K1. (14 sts)
Row 3: Purl.
Row 4: K1, Kfb, K to last 2 sts, Kfb, K1. (16 sts)
Work straight in SS for 18 rows. This creates the foot and the lower leg.
Next row (RS): K1, K2tog, K to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. (14 sts)
Next row (WS): Purl.
Rep these two rows twice more. (10 sts rem)
Work 4 rows straight.
BO all sts. Make a second leg piece. Fold and seam as for the arms, stuffing the foot end more firmly to give it shape and the upper leg portion more lightly. Attach to the lower body so the legs sit forward and allow the rabbit to “sit” upright.
Tail
CO 10 sts and work in SS for 6 rows. Break yarn leaving a long tail, thread through all sts, gather up into a tight little pom-pom shape, and seam into a ball. Stuff very slightly if desired. Sew to the back of the body at the base.
Making Up and Finishing
Assembly is where your bunny really comes to life. Take your time with this stage — a well-assembled toy looks far more polished than the sum of its parts, while a rushed assembly can let down the most careful knitting.
Begin by attaching the head to the body. Position the head so it sits slightly forward, tilted just a degree or two toward the front — this gives the bunny an inquisitive, alert expression that is characteristic of a rabbit. Pin it in place before sewing to check you are happy with the angle. Use a double thickness of yarn and sew all the way around the neck join twice for security, especially if the toy is for a young child.
Attach the arms next, at roughly shoulder height on either side of the body. Then the legs, which should sit at the very base of the body so the bunny can be posed in a seated position. The tail goes at the back, at the midpoint between the base of the back and where the body begins to narrow toward the neck.
Finally, go over all your seams and make sure there are no loose ends or gaps. Weave in all yarn ends very securely — at least twice through the body of the knitting, in different directions, before trimming.
Tips for Toy Knitting Success
A few things will make your knitted bunny look its very best. First, always use a tight gauge. Toy stuffing is merciless at revealing loose knitting; those tiny gaps between stitches that look perfectly fine in a swatch will show white stuffing through them the moment you fill the toy. If you find your gauge is too loose, go down a needle size.
Second, stuff as you go where possible rather than trying to force stuffing in at the end through a small gap. Getting stuffing into the tips of ears, paws, and the nose of a toy is fiddly work, and doing it incrementally is far easier.
Third, do not skimp on the stuffing. A well-stuffed toy holds its shape over years of play and love; an under-stuffed one goes floppy and sad very quickly. Fill each piece until it feels pleasantly firm but not tight enough to distort the knitting.
Fourth, if you are making this bunny for a baby or a very young child, please do not use safety eyes — they can be pulled out and present a choking hazard. Instead, embroider the eyes using black embroidery thread or yarn, using a small, tightly worked satin stitch to create a solid oval or circle. These are just as charming and completely safe.
Variations and Customisation
One of the greatest joys of a free rabbit knitting pattern like this one is how easy it is to make each bunny entirely your own.
Colour is the most obvious starting point. A natural undyed British wool in creamy white or warm brown gives a beautifully rustic feel. A pale grey with a blush pink nose looks wonderfully soft and modern. For Easter, try a butter yellow or a lavender. You can also work the inner ears in a contrast colour for extra charm — simply knit the ear pieces in your contrast shade and then oversew or line them.
For a more dressed bunny, you might add a simple knitted waistcoat or a tiny garter stitch scarf. A little ribbon bow tied around the neck transforms even a plain bunny into something gift-ready. Miniature knitted carrots make wonderful accessories — simply work a small orange cone shape with a few green garter-stitch loops at the top.
You can also adjust the proportions to change the character of your bunny. Longer ears give a more realistic look; shorter, rounder ears make a more stylised or cartoonish character. A rounder, larger head relative to the body looks babyish and sweet. A more elongated body and limbs creates something more elegant and heirloom-looking.
A Note on British Knitting Traditions
Britain has one of the richest handknitting traditions in the world. From the intricate Fair Isle patterns of Shetland to the sturdy ganseys of the Yorkshire fishing communities, from the lacy shawls of the Orkneys to the simple, timeless charm of a toy knitted from a leaflet tucked into a sewing basket, British knitting is woven through with history and love. Toy knitting in particular has a very special place in that tradition. Many of us remember a beloved knitted toy from childhood — a rabbit perhaps, or a bear — that was made by a grandmother or an aunt and has survived decades of handling because it was made with real care and proper British wool.
There is something deeply satisfying about participating in that tradition yourself. When you knit a bunny from this free rabbit knitting pattern, you are joining a long line of makers who chose to give not just a gift but an act of love made tangible. Your bunny might end up being just such a treasure for someone you love.
Sharing Your Makes
We would absolutely love to see the bunnies you knit from this pattern. If you share your finished rabbit on social media, do tag us and use the hashtag #FromBritainWithLove so we can find your beautiful makes. Whether you follow the pattern exactly or make it entirely your own with different colours, yarns, and embellishments, every finished bunny tells a slightly different story, and we find that endlessly wonderful.
If you have questions about any stage of the pattern, leave them in the comments below and we will do our best to help. And if you find any part of the pattern confusing, please do say so — we want this to be a pattern that knitters of all levels can enjoy with confidence.
Happy knitting. May your yarn never tangle, your tension always hold, and your finished bunny find its way to someone who needs a little handmade love in their life.