How to Knit Wiley the Whale: A Complete Step-by-Step Guide
There is something deeply satisfying about knitting a toy that you can actually hold in your hands when it’s done. Stuffed animals and amigurumi-style knitted creatures have become some of the most beloved knitting projects for crafters of every experience level, and whales — with their smooth, rounded shapes and charming silhouettes — are among the most popular. Wiley the Whale is a cuddly, beginner-friendly knitted toy that makes a wonderful gift for babies, children, or anyone who loves the ocean. In this guide, we’ll walk through everything you need to know to knit Wiley from start to finish, including the materials, gauge, cast-on, body shaping, fins, tail flukes, seaming, and finishing touches.
Whether you are picking up needles for the first time or you’re an experienced knitter looking for a fun weekend project, this pattern will guide you clearly through every step. Let’s dive in.
What You’ll Need Before You Start
Before casting on a single stitch, gathering your materials will save you time and frustration later. Here’s what you’ll need to knit Wiley the Whale.
Yarn: Choose a worsted weight yarn (size 4) in your preferred whale color. A classic blue or grey works beautifully, but there’s no rule against a bright teal, lavender, or even a deep charcoal. You’ll need approximately 150–200 yards for the main body. Pick up a small amount of a contrasting color — white or cream — for the belly panel, which gives Wiley that authentic whale look. A tiny scrap of black yarn or embroidery floss will be used for the eyes.
Needles: You’ll want a set of US size 5 (3.75mm) double-pointed needles or a short circular needle for working in the round. You can also use straight needles if you prefer working flat and seaming, but in-the-round construction gives the body a cleaner finish for a stuffed toy.
Notions: Stitch markers, a tapestry needle for seaming and weaving in ends, polyester fiberfill stuffing, safety eyes (12mm black safety eyes are ideal) or black embroidery floss if making the toy for a child under three, scissors, and a ruler or tape measure.
Gauge: Approximately 20 stitches and 28 rows to 4 inches in stockinette stitch. Gauge is especially important for a stuffed toy because a looser gauge means the fiberfill can poke through the fabric. If your gauge is looser than this, go down a needle size until your fabric is firm and close-knit.
Skill level: Beginner to intermediate. You should be comfortable with knit and purl stitches, basic increases and decreases, and knitting in the round.
Understanding the Construction
Wiley the Whale is worked in three main sections: the body (which includes the head and torso), the tail section with flukes, and the side fins. The belly panel can be worked as a separate flat piece and seamed on, or you can use intarsia or a simple color block method if you’re comfortable with that technique.
The body is worked in the round from the nose forward to the tail end. The head begins with a small number of stitches and is increased into a round, full shape, then the torso remains fairly consistent in circumference before decreasing toward the tail. The fins are knitted flat as small oval or paddle shapes and then seamed onto the body. The tail flukes are worked as a flat piece and attached at the end.
This construction method keeps things straightforward and avoids complex techniques like short rows or complicated stitch patterns, making Wiley accessible for knitters who are still building confidence.
Abbreviations Used in This Pattern
Before beginning, familiarize yourself with these abbreviations:
CO — cast on
BO — bind off
k — knit
p — purl
k2tog — knit two stitches together (a right-leaning decrease)
ssk — slip, slip, knit (a left-leaning decrease)
kfb — knit into the front and back of the same stitch (an increase)
m1L — make one left (a left-leaning increase)
m1R — make one right (a right-leaning increase)
pm — place marker
sm — slip marker
rnd(s) — round(s)
Knitting the Body
Casting On and Shaping the Nose
Using your main color yarn and double-pointed needles, CO 6 stitches and join to work in the round, being careful not to twist. Place a stitch marker to indicate the beginning of the round.
Rnd 1: Knit all stitches. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: (kfb) around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: Knit all stitches. (12 sts)
Rnd 4: (k1, kfb) around. (18 sts)
Rnd 5: Knit all stitches. (18 sts)
Rnd 6: (k2, kfb) around. (24 sts)
Rnd 7: Knit all stitches. (24 sts)
Rnd 8: (k3, kfb) around. (30 sts)
Rnd 9: Knit all stitches. (30 sts)
Rnd 10: (k4, kfb) around. (36 sts)
At this point you have a nice rounded nose forming. If you’re adding safety eyes, this is a good time to count and mark approximately where they’ll sit — usually about 8–10 stitches back from the tip of the nose on either side of the body. You’ll insert them once the head is almost fully shaped and before closing up with stuffing.
Shaping the Head and Torso
Continue working even (knit every round) for approximately 14 rounds, or until the head section measures about 2.5 inches from the cast-on.
Adding the Belly Color: If you want to add a white or cream belly panel, this is where you’ll begin your color change. The belly runs along the underside of Wiley’s body and should cover approximately the bottom third of the circumference. You can work this with a simple intarsia method (twisting the yarn at each color change to avoid holes) or with a duplicate stitch technique once the body is complete if you prefer not to knit colorwork in the round.
Continue working in the round for the torso section for another 20 rounds (approximately 3 inches), keeping the body width consistent at 36 stitches. This is the largest, fullest part of Wiley’s body.
Shaping the Tail
Once your torso is complete, you’ll begin decreasing to taper toward the tail.
Rnd 1: (k4, k2tog) around. (30 sts)
Rnd 2: Knit all stitches. (30 sts)
Rnd 3: (k3, k2tog) around. (24 sts)
Rnd 4: Knit all stitches. (24 sts)
Rnd 5: (k2, k2tog) around. (18 sts)
Rnd 6: Knit all stitches. (18 sts)
Before continuing with the final decreases, stuff Wiley’s body firmly with polyester fiberfill. Make sure the stuffing fills the nose and head evenly without creating lumps, and pack the torso so it feels plump and smooth when held. This is also the moment to insert your safety eyes if you haven’t done so already. Position them symmetrically on either side of the head, press the safety washers firmly onto the back posts until they click into place, and make sure they’re secure before the opening becomes too small to reach inside.
Rnd 7: (k1, k2tog) around. (12 sts)
Rnd 8: Knit all stitches. (12 sts)
Rnd 9: (k2tog) around. (6 sts)
Cut yarn leaving a 6-inch tail. Thread the tail onto your tapestry needle and draw it through the remaining 6 stitches, pulling tight to close. Weave in the end on the inside of the body.
Knitting the Tail Flukes
Wiley’s tail flukes are one of the most recognizable features of any whale toy, and they’re easier to knit than they look. They’re worked as a flat piece in two wings that are then seamed or left connected.
Using your main color yarn and straight or double-pointed needles, CO 4 stitches.
Row 1 (RS): Knit across.
Row 2 (WS): Purl across.
Row 3: kfb, k2, kfb. (6 sts)
Row 4: Purl across.
Row 5: kfb, k4, kfb. (8 sts)
Row 6: Purl across.
Row 7: kfb, k6, kfb. (10 sts)
Row 8: Purl across.
Row 9: kfb, k8, kfb. (12 sts)
Row 10: Purl across.
Row 11: Knit across.
Row 12: Purl across.
Now you’ll divide for the two fluke tips.
Left fluke:
Row 13: k6, turn, leaving remaining 6 stitches on hold.
Row 14: Purl across. (6 sts)
Row 15: k2tog, k2, k2tog. (4 sts)
Row 16: Purl across.
Row 17: k2tog, k2tog. (2 sts)
Row 18: p2tog. (1 st)
Cut yarn and pull through remaining stitch.
Right fluke: Rejoin yarn at the center and work the remaining 6 stitches in the same way as the left fluke.
Once both flukes are complete, fold the piece in half lengthwise with right sides facing outward and seam lightly along the short bottom edge, or leave as a single flat layer for a simpler construction. Attach the flat straight edge of the flukes to the tail end of the body using your tapestry needle and yarn. Take care to center it so the flukes sit horizontally and evenly on either side.
Knitting the Side Fins
Wiley has two small pectoral fins that sit roughly midway along the body on each side. These are worked flat as simple oval shapes.
CO 3 stitches.
Row 1 (RS): Knit across.
Row 2 (WS): Purl across.
Row 3: kfb, k1, kfb. (5 sts)
Row 4: Purl across.
Row 5: kfb, k3, kfb. (7 sts)
Row 6–10: Work in stockinette (knit RS, purl WS).
Row 11: ssk, k3, k2tog. (5 sts)
Row 12: Purl across.
Row 13: ssk, k1, k2tog. (3 sts)
Row 14: Purl across.
Row 15: SK2P (slip 1, k2tog, pass slipped stitch over). (1 st)
Cut yarn and pull through remaining stitch. Make a second fin identical to the first.
Pin the fins to the sides of the body, positioning them about a third of the way back from the nose. They should angle slightly downward and forward, which gives Wiley a natural, swimming posture. Use your tapestry needle and matching yarn to seam each fin neatly to the body with a few secure whipstitches around the base.
Adding the Dorsal Fin (Optional)
Some knitters like to add a small dorsal fin to the top of Wiley’s body for extra character. This is entirely optional, and Wiley looks perfectly complete without it, but if you’d like to add one, here’s how.
CO 2 stitches.
Row 1: kfb, kfb. (4 sts)
Row 2: Purl across.
Row 3: kfb, k2, kfb. (6 sts)
Row 4–6: Work in stockinette.
Row 7: ssk, k2, k2tog. (4 sts)
Row 8: Purl across.
Row 9: ssk, k2tog. (2 sts)
Row 10: p2tog. (1 st)
Pull through and cut yarn. Attach the dorsal fin at the center top of the body, roughly halfway between the nose and the tail.
Finishing Wiley the Whale
With all the pieces attached, it’s time for the finishing details that bring Wiley to life.
Eyes: If you used safety eyes, they should already be in place. If you’re making Wiley for a child under three or simply prefer embroidered features, use black yarn or embroidery floss to create small, round eye shapes with a few satin stitches. A tiny white highlight stitch in the upper corner of each eye gives Wiley an endearing, lively expression.
Mouth: A curved smile can be embroidered just below and slightly forward of the eyes using a few simple stitches. Use black or very dark navy yarn or floss and draw the needle up from inside the body to create a gentle crescent shape. This small detail adds enormous personality.
Blowhole: Some knitters add a tiny circle of stitches or a French knot at the very top of the head to suggest a blowhole. A small cluster of blue-grey embroidery or a single tight French knot in contrasting yarn does the job beautifully.
Belly Panel: If you chose to work the belly with duplicate stitch rather than intarsia, now is the time to add it. Thread a tapestry needle with your contrast color yarn and, working on the underside of the body, duplicate stitch over the stockinette stitches in a long oval shape from roughly below the eyes down to just before the tail taper begins.
Weaving In Ends: Weave in all remaining yarn ends securely using your tapestry needle, threading through several stitches in different directions to ensure nothing works loose during play or washing.
Caring for Your Finished Whale
Wiley the Whale makes a wonderful toy, but like all knitted items, he benefits from a little care. Hand washing in cool water with a gentle soap is the safest option. Press out excess water gently without wringing, reshape the toy while damp, and lay flat to dry. If you used acrylic yarn, many brands are machine washable on a gentle cycle in a mesh laundry bag, but always check your yarn’s care label first. The fiberfill stuffing holds its shape well through careful washing.
If Wiley is destined to be a toy for a very young child, double-check that all fins and the tail are securely attached, that there are no loose ends that could unravel, and that embroidered eyes are used rather than safety eyes, which can become a choking hazard if they somehow worked free.
Tips for Customizing Wiley
Once you’ve made your first Wiley, you’ll probably want to make another — and that’s where the real fun begins. Here are a few ideas for making each whale unique.
Changing the color palette is the simplest customization. A deep navy with a white belly mimics a real blue whale. A black and white version becomes an orca. Soft grey with minimal contrast makes a humpback. Bright turquoise or coral gives you a fantastical deep-sea creature straight out of a children’s illustration.
You can also experiment with yarn texture. A soft baby yarn creates a Wiley that feels wonderfully gentle for infant gifts. A slightly heavier bulky yarn will produce a larger, squishier whale that knits up very quickly. Adding a strand of sparkle or metallic thread held alongside your main yarn creates a glittery, magical finish that children especially adore.
For a slightly more advanced version, try adding a simple stripe pattern along the torso in a coordinating color. Two or three rows of contrast color worked into the torso section before continuing in the main color creates a subtle, stylish detail.
