How to Knit a Bunny Rabbit – Free Pattern and Step by Step Tutorial
There is something quietly wonderful about knitting a toy from scratch. You start with nothing more than a ball of yarn and two needles, and somewhere in the rhythm of knit and purl, a little creature begins to take shape. A bunny rabbit is one of those projects that never goes out of style. Whether you are making it as a gift for a new baby, a keepsake for a child, or simply for the joy of the craft itself, a handknitted bunny carries a warmth and personality that no shop-bought toy can match.
This free pattern and step by step tutorial will walk you through everything you need to know to knit your very own bunny rabbit, from the yarn and needles right through to the finishing touches. The pattern is written for knitters who have mastered the basics — casting on, knitting, purling, and casting off — but it is not complicated. If you have ever completed a small project like a dishcloth or a hat, you are more than ready for this.
So put the kettle on, get comfortable, and let’s make a bunny.
What You Will Need
Before you cast on a single stitch, it helps to gather everything together. There is nothing more frustrating than discovering halfway through a project that you are missing a tapestry needle or have run out of stuffing.
Yarn: Double knitting (DK) weight yarn works beautifully for this project. You will need approximately 100g in your main colour, which is the body, and a small amount of a contrasting colour if you would like to add detail to the inner ears or cheeks. Pure wool gives the bunny a lovely soft finish, but an acrylic or wool-blend yarn is perfectly fine, especially for toys intended for young children, as these are machine washable. Classic shades like oatmeal, cream, pale grey, or dusty brown make for the most charming bunnies, but do not let that stop you choosing something more adventurous.
Needles: A pair of 3.25mm (US size 3) knitting needles is ideal for DK yarn at this gauge. Working on slightly smaller needles than the yarn recommends gives you a tighter fabric, which is exactly what you want in a stuffed toy — it prevents the stuffing from poking through and gives the finished bunny a firmer, more defined shape.
Stuffing: Toy stuffing, also called polyester fibrefill, is available from most craft shops and is inexpensive. You will need enough to fill the body, head, and limbs firmly. Do not skimp — an underfilled bunny will look floppy and a little sad rather than plump and cheerful.
Tapestry needle: You will use this to sew the pieces together and to weave in your ends.
Safety eyes: A pair of 9mm safety eyes are perfect for this size of bunny. If you are making the toy for a child under three, you may prefer to embroider the eyes in black yarn instead, as safety eyes could pose a choking hazard.
Stitch markers: Optional but helpful, especially if you are new to working in the round or tracking increases and decreases.
Scissors and a small amount of black yarn or embroidery thread for the nose and mouth.
A Note on Tension
Tension (or gauge) matters in toy knitting, even though it is not as critical as it might be in a garment where fit is everything. For this pattern, aim for approximately 22 stitches and 30 rows to 10cm (4 inches) in stocking stitch on 3.25mm needles. If your tension is slightly looser, your bunny will come out a little larger; if tighter, a little smaller. Neither is a disaster for a toy, but if your stitches are very loose, you risk a fabric through which the stuffing shows, which is worth avoiding.
Abbreviations Used in This Pattern
Before diving into the instructions, here is a quick reference for the abbreviations used throughout.
k — knit
p — purl
st(s) — stitch(es)
CO — cast on
BO — bind off (cast off)
k2tog — knit two stitches together (a right-leaning decrease)
ssk — slip, slip, knit (a left-leaning decrease)
kfb — knit into the front and back of a stitch (an increase)
RS — right side
WS — wrong side
st st — stocking stitch (knit on RS, purl on WS)
The Pattern
This bunny is knitted flat in separate pieces — body, head, two ears, two arms, and two legs — and then assembled. Knitting flat means you do not need to manage circular needles or double-pointed needles, making it accessible to anyone who knits back and forth in rows.
The Body
Cast on 10 stitches.
Row 1 (RS): Kfb in each stitch across. (20 sts)
Row 2 (WS): Purl across.
Row 3: (Kfb, k1) repeat to end. (30 sts)
Row 4: Purl across.
Row 5: (Kfb, k2) repeat to end. (40 sts)
Row 6: Purl across.
Row 7: (Kfb, k3) repeat to end. (50 sts)
Rows 8–28: Work in stocking stitch (21 rows straight, beginning and ending with a purl row).
Row 29 (decrease row): (K2tog, k3) repeat to end. (40 sts)
Row 30: Purl across.
Row 31: (K2tog, k2) repeat to end. (30 sts)
Row 32: Purl across.
Row 33: (K2tog, k1) repeat to end. (20 sts)
Row 34: Purl across.
Row 35: K2tog across. (10 sts)
Cut yarn, leaving a long tail. Thread the tail through the remaining 10 stitches and draw up tightly to close the top of the body. Seam the side edges together, stuffing firmly before closing completely. The cast-on edge will form the base of the bunny and can be closed with a few stitches or left slightly open to help the bunny sit upright.
The Head
Cast on 8 stitches.
Row 1 (RS): Kfb in each stitch across. (16 sts)
Row 2 (WS): Purl across.
Row 3: (Kfb, k1) repeat to end. (24 sts)
Row 4: Purl across.
Row 5: (Kfb, k2) repeat to end. (32 sts)
Row 6: Purl across.
Row 7: (Kfb, k3) repeat to end. (40 sts)
Rows 8–22: Work in stocking stitch (15 rows, beginning with a purl row).
Row 23: (K2tog, k3) repeat to end. (32 sts)
Row 24: Purl across.
Row 25: (K2tog, k2) repeat to end. (24 sts)
Row 26: Purl across.
Row 27: (K2tog, k1) repeat to end. (16 sts)
Row 28: Purl across.
Row 29: K2tog across. (8 sts)
Cut yarn, leaving a long tail. Thread through remaining stitches, draw up tightly, and seam the sides together, stuffing the head firmly before closing. The finished head should be nicely round and plump.
The Ears (Make Two)
The ears are the feature that really makes a bunny look like a bunny, so it is worth taking care here.
Cast on 6 stitches.
Rows 1–4: Work in stocking stitch.
Row 5 (RS): Kfb, k4, kfb. (8 sts)
Rows 6–8: Work in stocking stitch.
Row 9: Kfb, k6, kfb. (10 sts)
Rows 10–20: Work in stocking stitch (11 rows straight).
Row 21: Ssk, k6, k2tog. (8 sts)
Row 22: Purl across.
Row 23: Ssk, k4, k2tog. (6 sts)
Row 24: Purl across.
Row 25: Ssk, k2, k2tog. (4 sts)
Row 26: Purl across.
Row 27: Ssk, k2tog. (2 sts)
Row 28: P2tog. (1 st)
Fasten off. If you would like to add an inner ear in a contrasting colour (a soft pink looks lovely against grey or cream), simply work a smaller version in the contrasting yarn and sew it onto the front of each ear before attaching to the head.
The Arms (Make Two)
Cast on 6 stitches.
Row 1 (RS): Kfb in each stitch. (12 sts)
Rows 2–18: Work in stocking stitch (17 rows, beginning with a purl row).
Row 19: (K2tog, k1) repeat to end. (8 sts)
Row 20: Purl across.
Row 21: K2tog across. (4 sts)
Cut yarn, thread through remaining stitches, draw up tightly, seam the sides, stuffing lightly before closing. The arms should feel a little less densely stuffed than the body, which allows them to drape naturally at the bunny’s sides.
The Legs (Make Two)
Cast on 8 stitches.
Row 1 (RS): Kfb in each stitch. (16 sts)
Rows 2–6: Work in stocking stitch (5 rows).
Row 7: K2tog, k12, k2tog. (14 sts)
Row 8: Purl across.
Row 9: K2tog, k10, k2tog. (12 sts)
Rows 10–22: Work in stocking stitch (13 rows straight).
Row 23: (K2tog, k1) repeat to end. (8 sts)
Row 24: Purl across.
Row 25: K2tog across. (4 sts)
Finish as for the arms, stuffing the foot end firmly and the leg part lightly.
Step by Step Assembly
Once all your pieces are knitted, the real magic happens during assembly. Take your time here — how the bunny is put together makes a significant difference to the finished look.
Step 1 — Attach the head to the body. Position the head centrally on top of the body, with the cast-on edge of the head facing downward. Use your tapestry needle and a length of yarn to stitch the two pieces together securely, working all the way around the join so there are no gaps.
Step 2 — Attach the ears. Fold each ear gently at the base to give it a slight curve, which will help the ears stand upright rather than flopping forward. Sew each ear to the top of the head, positioning them roughly a third of the way in from each side. The exact placement is a matter of personal taste — ears set wider apart give a more whimsical look, while ears closer together look more realistic.
Step 3 — Attach the arms. Pin the arms in place on either side of the upper body before sewing, so you can check they look balanced. Stitch each arm securely at the shoulder, making sure they are at the same height on each side.
Step 4 — Attach the legs. Position the legs at the base of the body, angling them slightly outward so the bunny will sit in a stable, natural position. Sew them on firmly.
Step 5 — Add the face. If you are using safety eyes, insert them now, pressing the backs on firmly from the inside. Position them in the centre of the face, roughly level with the midpoint, spaced about 2cm apart. For embroidered eyes, use a length of black yarn and make a small circular cluster of stitches to form each eye.
For the nose, use a small amount of pink or black yarn to embroider a small triangle shape at the centre of the face, just below the eye line. Add a straight stitch downward from the base of the nose and two small diagonal stitches from the bottom of that line to create a simple, sweet mouth.
Finishing Touches
The difference between a toy that looks homemade and one that looks lovingly handcrafted often comes down to the small details. Weave in all your ends carefully so there are no loose threads. If you spot any gaps in the seams, close them now with a few extra stitches. Run your fingers over the bunny and make sure the stuffing is evenly distributed — if it feels lumpy, you can sometimes redistribute it by gently squeezing and manipulating the toy from the outside.
If you would like to add a little tail, knit or crochet a small pompom in white yarn and stitch it to the back of the body. A pompom roughly 2cm in diameter is just right. Alternatively, cast on 4 stitches, work 6 rows in stocking stitch, and gather the edges to form a small bobble, sewing it firmly in place.
A ribbon tied in a bow around the neck adds a charming finishing touch, particularly if the bunny is intended as a gift. A pale blue or pink satin ribbon, or even a length of rustic twine, works wonderfully.
Tips for Making This Pattern Your Own
One of the joys of toy knitting is how easy it is to put your own stamp on a basic pattern. Here are a few ways to personalise your bunny.
You can change the scale entirely simply by changing your yarn weight and needle size. Work the same pattern in chunky yarn on 5mm needles and you will have a much larger, cuddlier bunny. Use a 4-ply or fingering weight yarn on 2.25mm needles and you will produce a tiny, delicate version — gorgeous as a tree decoration or keyring.
Adding a simple stripe across the body is easy to incorporate by switching colours at the start of a new row during the main stocking stitch section.
You can give the bunny a more textured look by working the body in seed stitch or moss stitch instead of stocking stitch — cast on an odd number of stitches and simply alternate knit and purl stitches across every row.
A Few Words on Knitting for Babies and Young Children
If this bunny is destined for a baby or toddler, there are a few things worth keeping in mind. As mentioned, always embroider the eyes rather than using safety eyes for children under three. Make sure all seams are very secure — give each one a firm tug to test it before handing the toy over. Choose a yarn that is machine washable and avoid anything with long fibres that could shed. Stuffing the toy firmly also makes it harder for small fingers to pull at loose bits of fabric.
If you are gifting the bunny to a newborn, consider washing it gently before giving it, which both softens it and removes any yarn residue that might irritate delicate skin.
Why Handknitted Toys Are So Special
There is a reason that handknitted toys get handed down through families, kept long after childhood is over. They carry with them the time and care and love that went into making them. Every stitch was placed by hand. The person who made it chose the colour, felt the yarn, decided on the expression. That is something a factory cannot replicate.
Knitting a bunny rabbit is also, frankly, a joy in itself. It is a manageable project that can be completed in a weekend. It is satisfying at every stage — watching the body take shape, the moment you stuff it and it becomes three-dimensional, the final stitching on of the eyes that suddenly brings the whole thing to life. It is the
