Free Pattern: Lil Other Brother – A Tiny Duck Amigurumi
There is something undeniably charming about a duck that fits in the palm of your hand. Maybe it’s the round little body, the stubby wings that serve absolutely no aerodynamic purpose, or the slightly smug expression that all small amigurumi seem to wear by default. Whatever it is, the Lil Other Brother duck pattern has captured the hearts of crafters who want something quick, satisfying, and impossibly cute to add to their collection — or to give away as a gift that will make someone’s whole day.
This free crochet pattern walks you through every stitch of making your very own tiny duck, from the foundation ring of the body all the way to the finishing touches that give him his personality. Whether you are a seasoned amigurumi maker looking for a fun weekend project or a newer crocheter wanting to try your first stuffed animal, this pattern is designed to be approachable without sacrificing any of that charm. Grab your hook, pull out some yarn, and let’s make a little duck.
A Little About the Lil Other Brother Duck
The name “Lil Other Brother” came from one of those spontaneous crafting moments where a second duck gets made right after the first, and suddenly you need to explain to someone why there are now two tiny ducks on your desk. The first one was The Duck. This one is the other brother. He is lil. The name stuck.
He stands at roughly 3 to 4 inches tall depending on your yarn weight and tension, making him an ideal size for sitting on a bookshelf, perching on a monitor, tucking into a pocket, or attaching to a bag as a charm. His proportions are intentionally a little wonky — a head that is slightly too large, a body that is slightly too round — because that is exactly what makes him endearing rather than simply decorative.
The pattern uses basic amigurumi techniques: magic rings, single crochets worked in the round, increases, decreases, and simple surface embellishments. If you have made any amigurumi before, you will feel right at home. If you haven’t, this is a wonderful starting point because the pieces are small and the construction is straightforward.
Materials You Will Need
Before you cast on — or rather, before you make your magic ring — here is everything you need to gather.
Yarn: Any worsted weight yarn in your chosen duck color works well for the body and head. Traditionally that means yellow, but this is your duck and he can be whatever color brings you joy. You will also want a small amount of orange or coral yarn for the beak and feet, and optionally a contrasting color for any wing detail or accessories. The quantities are small — you are likely to finish this entire project from yarn scraps if you have them.
Hook: A 3.5mm or 4.0mm crochet hook pairs well with worsted weight yarn for a tight, stuffing-friendly fabric. If you tend to crochet loosely, size down slightly. The goal is a fabric where you cannot see the stuffing peeking through the stitches.
Stuffing: Polyester fiberfill stuffing. A small amount — you would be surprised how little you need for a duck this size. Use it to give the body a satisfying plumpness and the head a nice round shape.
Safety eyes: Two 6mm black safety eyes work perfectly for this scale. If you are making this duck for a very young child, consider embroidering the eyes with black yarn instead, as safety eyes do have small backs that could pose a risk for children under three.
Yarn needle: For weaving in ends and sewing pieces together.
Stitch markers: Optional but recommended if you are new to working in continuous rounds. Place one at the beginning of each round so you always know where you are.
Scissors: You have these. You are a crafter.
Gauge and Finished Size
Gauge is not critical for amigurumi the way it would be for a garment, but working to a consistent tension helps ensure your pieces come out similar in size to what is described here.
Working in continuous rounds in single crochet with worsted weight yarn and a 3.5mm hook, approximately 5 stitches and 5 rows equal 1 inch. The finished duck stands approximately 3.5 inches tall with the head attached, and the body measures roughly 2.5 inches across at its widest point.
Abbreviations Used in This Pattern
MR — Magic ring
ch — Chain
sl st — Slip stitch
sc — Single crochet
inc — Increase (two single crochets in the same stitch)
dec — Decrease (invisible decrease: insert hook into the front loops of the next two stitches, yarn over, pull through, yarn over, pull through both loops)
BLO — Back loop only
FLO — Front loop only
st(s) — Stitch(es)
rnd — Round
rep — Repeat
The Pattern
Body
The body is worked from the bottom up in continuous rounds.
Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc into ring. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: Sc 1, inc rep around. (18 sts)
Rnd 4: Sc 2, inc rep around. (24 sts)
Rnd 5: Sc 3, inc rep around. (30 sts)
Rnds 6–10: Sc in each st around. (30 sts) — 5 rounds even
Rnd 11: Sc 3, dec rep around. (24 sts)
Rnd 12: Sc 2, dec rep around. (18 sts)
At this point, insert your safety eyes between rounds 8 and 9, spaced about 6 to 7 stitches apart. This is also the moment to begin stuffing. Add a good amount of fiberfill — the body should feel firm and hold its round shape without being stretched to the point of distortion.
Rnd 13: Sc 1, dec rep around. (12 sts)
Rnd 14: Dec around. (6 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Use the yarn needle to close the remaining 6 stitches by weaving the tail through the front loops of each stitch and pulling snug. Weave in the end.
Head
The head is worked the same way as the body but stopped one round earlier to keep it slightly smaller in proportion.
Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc into ring. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: Sc 1, inc rep around. (18 sts)
Rnd 4: Sc 2, inc rep around. (24 sts)
Rnds 5–8: Sc in each st around. (24 sts) — 4 rounds even
Rnd 9: Sc 2, dec rep around. (18 sts)
Insert your safety eyes between rounds 6 and 7, spaced about 5 stitches apart. Begin stuffing the head firmly.
Rnd 10: Sc 1, dec rep around. (12 sts)
Rnd 11: Dec around. (6 sts)
Fasten off and close as with the body. Leave a tail of about 12 inches before cutting, as you will use this to sew the head onto the body.
Beak
The beak is a small, slightly flattened oval worked in orange yarn.
Rnd 1: Ch 4. Starting in the second ch from hook: sc 2, then 3 sc in the last ch. Working back along the other side of the chain: sc 1, then 2 sc in the first ch. (8 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc, sc 1, inc 3 times, sc 1, inc. (14 sts)
Sl st to join. Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. Flatten the beak slightly before attaching — it should look like a little oval disc rather than a round puff.
Wings (Make Two)
The wings are small and simple, designed to sit flat against the body.
Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Sc 1, inc rep around. (9 sts)
Rnd 3: Sc 2, inc rep around. (12 sts)
Rnd 4: Sc in each st around. (12 sts)
Flatten the wing without stuffing it and sl st across the top edge to close, or simply fold and sew shut when attaching. Leave a long tail for sewing.
Feet (Make Two)
The feet give the duck his grounded, slightly waddling quality. They are worked in orange yarn.
Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: Sc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 4: Sc 2, dec rep around. (9 sts)
Do not stuff. Flatten and sl st across to close. Leave a tail for sewing.
Assembly
This is the part where the duck stops being a collection of small crocheted blobs and becomes an actual duck, which is a genuinely magical moment no matter how many amigurumi you have made.
Attaching the head: Position the head on top of the body, slightly toward the front. The placement matters — a head that sits too far back makes the duck look like he is gazing at the ceiling, and a head that sits too far forward makes him look like he is inspecting something very closely on the floor. Find the sweet spot, pin it in place if you like, then use the long tail and your yarn needle to sew the head firmly to the body using a whip stitch or ladder stitch around the entire base. Take your time here and check the positioning as you go.
Attaching the beak: Center the beak on the front of the head between rounds 5 and 7. Sew around the entire outer edge of the beak, tucking in the edges slightly to give it dimension. A beak that is sewn too flat can look like a sticker; sew it with a slight three-dimensional quality and it will look like it belongs to the duck’s face.
Attaching the wings: Position each wing on the sides of the body, roughly at rounds 8 through 10. The wings should angle very slightly downward and forward, the way a duck’s wings rest against its body when it is not flying (which, let’s be honest, this duck is not about to do). Sew each wing along its flat edge using whip stitch.
Attaching the feet: The feet go on the bottom of the body, positioned so the duck sits stably without tipping. Experiment with placement before sewing — some ducks sit with their feet close together and some with them slightly spread. Sew through the top flat edge of each foot and into the base of the body.
Finishing Details
The difference between a finished amigurumi and a truly great amigurumi is usually in the details, and the Lil Other Brother duck is no exception.
Cheeks: Using pink yarn or embroidery floss, make two small circles of satin stitch or a few small stitches in an oval on either side of the beak, below the eyes. This gives the duck a rosy, slightly flustered expression that is entirely consistent with being a small duck who has just been crocheted into existence.
Tail feather: Some makers add a small puff at the back of the body for a tail. To do this, cut six to eight short lengths of your body-color yarn, fold them in half, and use a crochet hook to pull the loops through a stitch at the back of the body. Pull the ends through the loops and trim to a neat little puff. This detail is optional but adds an extra point of personality.
Tidying ends: Weave all yarn ends in carefully, threading them back through several stitches in multiple directions so they cannot work their way loose. For a duck that will be handled frequently or given to someone as a gift, secure your ends extra well.
Tips for Success
If your amigurumi pieces are coming out looser than you’d like and you can see the stuffing through the stitches, try going down half a size on your hook. The body of amigurumi work should be a dense, almost firm fabric.
If you are struggling with the magic ring, an alternative starting method is to chain 2 and work your starting stitches into the second chain from the hook, then pull the tail to tighten the opening. It is slightly less tidy than a magic ring but perfectly functional.
Working in continuous rounds rather than joined rounds — meaning you do not slip stitch to close each round, you simply continue into the next — is the standard for amigurumi and produces a neater result. Use a stitch marker to track the beginning of each round.
Invisible decreases, where you insert your hook through the front loops of two stitches rather than under both loops of one stitch, produce a significantly smoother decrease than the standard method. They require slightly more effort but are well worth learning for amigurumi work.
Ideas for Customization
The Lil Other Brother duck is a wonderful blank canvas for customization. A tiny crocheted hat, made from just a few rounds of a contrasting color, can turn him into a duck in a party hat or a duck with a beret, depending on your brim preferences. A small scarf, which is simply a long single crochet rectangle in any color, wraps around his neck and tucks under a wing.
You can change his color entirely for seasonal versions — a lavender or mint duck for spring, a warm brown duck who could arguably be a different bird entirely, or a pure white duck if you want something a little more elegant. His expression can shift based on how you position the safety eyes (farther apart for an innocent look, slightly closer for an intense one) and whether you embroider a mouth.
Made in multiples, a family of Lil Other Brother ducks in different sizes (adjust by going up in yarn weight for a bigger duck or down for a smaller one) can line a shelf with the kind of quiet absurdist comedy that only a row of handmade ducks can provide.
A Note on Sharing Your Makes
If you use this pattern, please share your finished duck — makers genuinely love seeing their patterns brought to life by other people’s hands, and the variation in yarn color, eye placement, and finishing details means that no two Lil Other Brother ducks ever look quite the same. Tag your projects, share them in crochet communities, or simply photograph your duck in front of something that makes the size scale funny, like next to a full coffee mug or on top of a laptop keyboard.
This pattern is free for personal use and for making items to give as gifts. If you sell finished items made from this pattern, please credit the pattern source. The pattern itself is not for resale.
Happy Crocheting
The Lil Other Brother duck is small, quick, and endlessly satisfying to make. He takes up almost no yarn, requires no advanced techniques, and produces a finished object that reliably makes people smile when they see it. Whether you make one or twelve, he is the kind of project that reminds you why crocheting small things by hand, stitch by stitch, is worth every moment.
Go make your duck. He’s waiting.
