Free Knitting Pattern: Vintage Easter Bunny

There is something quietly magical about a handknitted Easter bunny sitting on a shelf or tucked into a basket. It carries the kind of warmth that no plastic toy from a shop shelf ever quite manages. It smells faintly of yarn. It has the slight imperfections that prove a real person made it with their own hands. And when it is styled with a vintage aesthetic — soft muted tones, classic shaping, a little ribbon around the neck — it becomes something genuinely timeless. This free knitting pattern for a vintage Easter bunny is designed to give you exactly that: a sweet, old-fashioned stuffed bunny that you can make in an afternoon or over a quiet weekend, depending on your pace.

Whether you are knitting this as a gift for a child, a decoration for your Easter table, or simply because the urge to cast on something charming has struck you at the right moment, this pattern has everything you need. It is written for knitters with some basic experience — you should be comfortable with knit and purl stitches, simple shaping, and seaming — but it is not complicated. If you have made a simple toy or a small amigurumi-style project before, you will find this very approachable. If you are newer to knitting, take your time and read through the whole pattern before you start. It will all make sense once you can see the full picture.

Let’s talk about what makes this bunny feel genuinely vintage rather than just retro. The design draws on the classic stuffed toys of the mid-twentieth century: a simple body silhouette with elongated limbs, flat stitched facial features rather than plastic safety eyes, and ears that stand upright with a hint of inner lining. The yarn choices lean toward soft pastels or natural undyed wools — dusty rose, sage green, cream, or a warm oat color. A small satin ribbon tied at the throat and a few embroidered details complete the look. This is the kind of bunny your grandmother might have made, or one you might have found in an antique shop and immediately wanted to take home.

Materials and Tools

Before you cast on, gather everything you need so the process stays smooth and enjoyable.

Yarn: Approximately 100 grams of DK or light worsted weight yarn in your main color. You will also need a small amount of a contrasting color if you wish to line the inner ears, though this is optional. Good choices include a soft wool-blend, cotton-wool blend, or even a gentle acrylic if you are making this for a young child and need it to be machine washable. Avoid anything overly fluffy or textured, as it will obscure the stitch definition and make the shaping harder to see.

Needles: US size 4 (3.5mm) or US size 5 (3.75mm) straight or double-pointed needles. The exact size matters less than achieving a tight, firm fabric — you want the stuffing to stay inside and not peek through the stitches. Go down a needle size from what the yarn label recommends.

Stuffing: A small bag of polyester fiberfill works perfectly. For a vintage look, you could also use wool roving stuffing, which gives the toy a slightly firmer feel and a more natural hand.

Notions: A blunt tapestry needle for seaming and embroidery, small scissors, stitch markers, and a row counter if you like to use one. You will also need a short length of ribbon — about 30 centimeters of satin or grosgrain ribbon in a color that complements your yarn — and embroidery floss in black or dark brown for the facial features.

Finished Size: Approximately 28 to 32 centimeters (about 11 to 13 inches) tall when stuffed and assembled, depending on your gauge and how firmly you stuff the body.

Gauge

18 stitches and 24 rows over 4 inches (10cm) in stockinette stitch on US 4 (3.5mm) needles. Gauge is not critical for a toy like this, but it does affect the finished size. If your gauge is looser, your bunny will be larger; tighter, and it will be smaller. What matters most is that the fabric is dense enough to hold the stuffing.

Abbreviations

Throughout this pattern the following abbreviations are used:

CO = cast on, BO = bind off, k = knit, p = purl, k2tog = knit two stitches together (a right-leaning decrease), ssk = slip, slip, knit (a left-leaning decrease), m1 = make one (a lifted increase), kfb = knit into the front and back of the same stitch, st(s) = stitch(es), RS = right side, WS = wrong side, pm = place marker, sm = slip marker.

Pattern Notes

This bunny is knitted flat in pieces and then seamed together. The body, head, arms, legs, ears, and tail are all worked separately and assembled at the end. This approach gives you a lot of control over shaping and makes it easy to stuff each section as you go. If you prefer to knit in the round, you can adapt the pattern accordingly, but the flat construction is recommended for beginners and for anyone who finds in-the-round assembly fiddly.

All pieces begin with a cast on at the lower edge (the feet, the base of the body, the base of the ears) and are shaped upward. When the pattern says “leave a long tail for seaming,” cut the yarn leaving about 30cm and thread it onto your tapestry needle when you are ready to sew.

The Pattern

Body

The body is worked in two identical pieces that are seamed together, stuffed, and closed at the top.

CO 24 sts. Work 2 rows of garter stitch (knit every row) for a neat lower edge.

Row 1 (RS): Kfb, k to last st, kfb. (26 sts)
Row 2 (WS): Purl.
Row 3: Kfb, k to last st, kfb. (28 sts)
Row 4: Purl.

Continue in stockinette stitch (knit RS rows, purl WS rows) without any further shaping until your piece measures 10cm from the cast-on edge.

Begin upper body shaping:

Row 1 (RS): K2tog, k to last 2 sts, ssk. (26 sts)
Row 2: Purl.
Row 3: K2tog, k to last 2 sts, ssk. (24 sts)
Row 4: Purl.
Row 5: K2tog, k to last 2 sts, ssk. (22 sts)
Row 6: Purl.
Row 7: K2tog, k to last 2 sts, ssk. (20 sts)
Row 8: Purl.

BO remaining 20 sts and leave a long tail for seaming.

Make two pieces. Seam the sides and base together, leaving the top open for stuffing.

Head

CO 16 sts. Work 2 rows in garter stitch.

Row 1 (RS): Kfb across all stitches. (32 sts)
Row 2: Purl.
Row 3: (K3, kfb) repeat to end. (40 sts)
Row 4: Purl.

Work even in stockinette for 8 rows.

Begin decreases for top of head:

Row 1: (K3, k2tog) repeat to end. (32 sts)
Row 2: Purl.
Row 3: (K2, k2tog) repeat to end. (24 sts)
Row 4: Purl.
Row 5: (K1, k2tog) repeat to end. (16 sts)
Row 6: Purl.
Row 7: K2tog across. (8 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving a long tail. Thread the tail through the remaining 8 stitches, pull tight to close the top, and seam the side of the head. Leave the bottom open for stuffing. Stuff the head firmly so it holds its rounded shape, then close the bottom opening.

Ears (Make 2)

For the outer ear (in main color):

CO 8 sts. Work 2 rows garter.

Row 1 (RS): Kfb, k to last st, kfb. (10 sts)
Row 2: Purl.
Row 3: Kfb, k to last st, kfb. (12 sts)

Work 14 rows even in stockinette.

Begin decreasing:

Row 1: K2tog, k to last 2 sts, ssk. (10 sts)
Row 2: Purl.
Row 3: K2tog, k to last 2 sts, ssk. (8 sts)
Row 4: Purl.
Row 5: K2tog, k to last 2 sts, ssk. (6 sts)
Row 6: Purl.
Row 7: K2tog, k2, ssk. (4 sts)
BO.

For the inner ear lining (optional, in contrast color): Work the same pattern but make each piece 2 stitches narrower at its widest point. When blocking is done, simply stitch the lining to the purl side of the outer ear before attaching to the head.

Arms (Make 2)

CO 10 sts. Work 2 rows garter.

Work in stockinette for 20 rows.

Begin shaping the paw:

Row 1: Kfb, k to last st, kfb. (12 sts)
Row 2: Purl.
Row 3: Kfb, k to last st, kfb. (14 sts)
Work 4 rows even.
Row 8: K2tog, k to last 2 sts, ssk. (12 sts)
Row 9: Purl.
Row 10: K2tog, k to last 2 sts, ssk. (10 sts)
BO.

Fold each arm in half lengthwise with right sides facing, seam the long edge and the rounded paw end, leaving the top open. Turn right side out and stuff lightly — the arms should be flexible and soft, not stiff.

Legs (Make 2)

CO 14 sts. Work 2 rows garter.

Work in stockinette for 16 rows.

Shape the foot:

Row 1: Kfb, k to last st, kfb. (16 sts)
Row 2: Purl.
Row 3: Kfb, k to last st, kfb. (18 sts)
Work 6 rows even.
Row 10: K2tog, k to last 2 sts, ssk. (16 sts)
Row 11: Purl.
Row 12: K2tog, k to last 2 sts, ssk. (14 sts)
BO.

Seam and stuff the legs as with the arms, leaving the tops open. The feet should point forward when the bunny is assembled.

Tail

CO 8 sts.

Row 1: Kfb in each stitch. (16 sts)
Work 4 rows even in stockinette.
Row 6: K2tog across. (8 sts)
Row 7: K2tog across. (4 sts)

Thread yarn through remaining stitches, gather tightly, and seam the edges together to form a small round pom-pom shape. Stuff very lightly before fully closing.

Assembly

Once all your pieces are knitted, the assembly is the most satisfying part. Lay everything out in front of you so you can visualize the finished bunny before you begin attaching anything.

Start by attaching the head to the body. The base of the head should sit centered on the top opening of the body. Use the mattress stitch or a simple overcast stitch to secure the head firmly all the way around. The join should be snug enough that the head does not flop to one side.

Next, position the ears on the top of the head. The ears sit about one centimeter apart at the center of the crown, angling very slightly outward. Pin them in place before sewing to make sure you are happy with the look. Sew each ear down firmly through the base, reinforcing the stitches a few times for stability.

The arms attach just below the neck on either side of the body, angling slightly downward and forward. Sew them in place with a strong overcast stitch, going through the body fabric and back through the arm several times for a secure join that allows a small range of movement.

The legs sit at the lower front of the body, spaced evenly apart so the bunny can sit upright when placed on a flat surface. Before you sew them permanently, sit the bunny up and check that the legs angle forward enough to provide balance. Adjust and pin until it looks natural, then sew firmly in place.

Finally, sew the tail to the center back of the body at approximately the midpoint — not too high, not too low.

Adding the Face

The facial features are what give your vintage bunny its character, so take your time here. Using a length of dark embroidery floss and a fine needle, embroider two small oval eyes in a simple satin stitch. Position them on the front of the face, slightly below the center and spaced about 2 centimeters apart. Keep them small — large eyes will look modern and cartoonish, while small stitched eyes give that quintessential vintage look.

For the nose, work a small inverted triangle in satin stitch using the same floss or a slightly lighter shade of pink or rose. Just below the nose, embroider a simple upward-curving line to create a subtle smile. A few whisker lines radiating out from either side of the nose can be added with a single strand of floss or even a length of light-colored thread.

If you want to add blush to the cheeks — a lovely vintage touch — a very small amount of chalk pastel or children’s blush pressed into the fabric with your fingertip creates soft rosy circles on either side of the nose.

Finishing and Blocking

If you have used a wool or wool-blend yarn, a gentle block will help the pieces lie flat and smooth. Wet the finished bunny very lightly, pat it into shape, and leave it to dry on a flat surface out of direct sunlight. This will even out any uneven tension and give the fabric a lovely softness.

Tie the ribbon around the neck in a simple bow. For an extra vintage effect, choose an ivory or dusty rose ribbon rather than a bright white or vivid color. You might even antique a white ribbon by soaking it briefly in weak tea and allowing it to dry before tying it on.

Yarn Color Ideas for a Vintage Look

The yarn color you choose does as much work as the pattern itself when it comes to achieving a vintage aesthetic. Some combinations worth considering: a pale oat or undyed natural wool for the body with a soft rose inner ear and ribbon, a sage green body with cream lining and a warm gold ribbon, a dusty lavender with pale grey accents, or a classic creamy white with dusty pink details throughout.

If you enjoy hand-dyeing yarn or have access to naturally dyed skeins, this is a wonderful project to use them on. The gentle variation in tone that comes with natural or small-batch dyeing adds depth to the fabric and enhances the antique quality of the finished toy.

Caring for Your Knitted Bunny

If you have used a superwash wool or a machine-washable yarn, the bunny can be gently machine washed on a cold, delicate cycle and air-dried. If you have used a non-superwash wool, hand-wash it gently in cool water with a small amount of wool wash and reshape while wet. Never wring or twist a knitted toy, as it will distort the seams and stuffing. Most acrylic yarns can be machine washed without any concern.

For a bunny intended purely as a decorative item, spot-cleaning is usually sufficient and will keep it looking its best for years.

A Few Words About Gifting This Bunny

A handknitted vintage Easter bunny makes an extraordinarily personal gift. If you are making it for a baby or toddler, be sure to use only securely stitched embroidered features rather than buttons or plastic eyes, and choose a hypoallergenic stuffing. Check all seams carefully and reinforce anything that feels loose before giving it. For older children or adults, you have much more freedom to add embell