Free Garter Stitch Teddy Bear Knit Flat Knitting Pattern
There is something timeless about a handmade teddy bear. Long before plastic toys and screen time, children clutched soft, hand-sewn companions through childhood adventures, afternoon naps, and scary thunderstorms. When that bear is knitted by someone who loves them, the gift carries a warmth that no store-bought toy can replicate. If you have been searching for a simple, approachable pattern to create your own stuffed friend, you have come to the right place. This free garter stitch teddy bear knitting pattern is worked flat, meaning you never have to touch a circular needle or navigate complicated short rows. Whether you are a confident beginner or an experienced knitter looking for a satisfying weekend project, this pattern will walk you through every step.
Why Garter Stitch Is Perfect for a Teddy Bear
Garter stitch is the simplest stitch in all of knitting. You knit every single row, both right side and wrong side, and the result is a squishy, ridged fabric with a wonderful amount of natural stretch and thickness. For a stuffed toy, these qualities are ideal. The dense texture means your stuffing will not poke through the fabric, the elasticity helps the bear hold its rounded shape after stuffing, and because both sides of garter stitch look exactly the same, you never have to worry about accidentally knitting a right-side row on the wrong side.
Garter stitch also has a slight horizontal pull that makes seaming pieces together much easier than stockinette, since the fabric lies flat without curling at the edges. That curl-free quality is one of the reasons many knitters prefer working toys flat rather than in the round. You can see your work clearly, count stitches without twisting, and fix any errors before moving on to the next section.
Materials You Will Need
Before you cast on a single stitch, gather everything you need so your knitting session goes smoothly from start to finish.
Yarn: Approximately 100 to 150 yards of worsted weight yarn (category 4) in your chosen bear color. A soft acrylic like Red Heart Soft, Lion Brand Pound of Love, or any washable wool blend works beautifully. For a classic look, choose a warm tan, honey, or caramel brown. For something more whimsical, a dusty pink or pale grey makes an adorable modern bear.
Contrast Yarn: A small amount of black or dark brown yarn for the face details, or you can use embroidery floss if you prefer finer lines.
Needles: US size 7 (4.5mm) straight or single-pointed needles. If your gauge runs loose, go down to a US 6. A tighter fabric is better for stuffed toys because it keeps the stuffing contained.
Stuffing: Polyester fiberfill is the standard choice and is widely available at craft stores. Use enough to fill the bear firmly without distorting the seams.
Tapestry Needle: You will need this for seaming the pieces together and for weaving in all your ends.
Stitch markers: Optional but helpful for marking the center of pieces.
Scissors
Safety eyes or buttons: Two 12mm safety eyes if the bear is for an adult or a child over three. If the bear is for a baby or very young toddler, embroider the eyes with yarn instead to eliminate any choking hazard.
Gauge
Gauge matters more than many beginners realize, even for toys where an exact size is not critical. With US 7 needles and worsted weight yarn, you should aim for approximately 18 stitches and 36 rows to 4 inches in garter stitch. A slightly tighter gauge is fine, but if your work is looser than this, you risk gaps in the fabric that allow stuffing to show through. Knit a quick swatch, measure it honestly, and adjust your needle size if needed.
At this gauge, the finished bear will measure approximately 12 to 13 inches tall when stuffed and assembled, which is a comfortable hugging size for a child.
Abbreviations Used in This Pattern
CO — Cast on
K — Knit
K2tog — Knit two stitches together (a right-leaning decrease)
SSK — Slip, slip, knit (a left-leaning decrease)
BO — Bind off
RS — Right side
WS — Wrong side
St(s) — Stitch(es)
Rep — Repeat
Pattern Notes
All pieces are worked flat in garter stitch unless otherwise stated. Every row is a knit row. The pattern is written for a single size. When beginning a new piece, leave a tail of at least 8 inches to use for seaming later. This saves you from having to cut and attach new lengths of yarn when it is time to assemble the bear.
The Pattern
Body (Make 2)
The body is worked from the bottom up, starting wide and tapering slightly toward the neck.
CO 24 sts.
Knit every row until piece measures 4 inches from cast-on edge.
Next row (decrease row): K2, K2tog, knit to last 4 sts, SSK, K2. (22 sts)
Knit 3 rows even.
Repeat the last 4 rows two more times. (18 sts)
Knit every row until piece measures 7 inches from cast-on edge.
BO all sts, leaving a long tail for seaming.
Make a second identical piece.
Head (Make 2)
The head is a rounded rectangle with decreases on all four corners to give it a gentle dome shape when stuffed.
CO 20 sts.
Knit every row for 10 rows.
Next row: K2, K2tog, knit to last 4 sts, SSK, K2. (18 sts)
Knit 5 rows even.
Repeat these 6 rows (one decrease row followed by 5 even rows) two more times. (14 sts)
Knit 3 rows even.
Next row: K2, K2tog, knit to last 4 sts, SSK, K2. (12 sts)
Next row: Knit.
Next row: K1, K2tog, knit to last 3 sts, SSK, K1. (10 sts)
BO all sts, leaving a long tail for seaming.
Make a second identical piece.
Muzzle (Make 1)
The muzzle is a small, nearly square piece that gives your bear that classic pushed-out nose area.
CO 10 sts.
Knit every row for 12 rows.
Next row: K1, K2tog, K4, SSK, K1. (8 sts)
Knit 3 rows even.
BO all sts, leaving a tail for seaming.
Ears (Make 4)
Two pieces per ear, four pieces total.
CO 8 sts.
Knit every row for 6 rows.
Next row: K1, K2tog, K2, SSK, K1. (6 sts)
Knit 1 row.
Next row: K1, K2tog, SSK, K1. (4 sts)
Next row: K2tog twice. (2 sts)
Cut yarn leaving a 10-inch tail. Thread tail through remaining 2 sts and pull firmly to close the top of the ear.
Arms (Make 4)
Two pieces per arm, four pieces total.
CO 10 sts.
Knit every row until piece measures 3.5 inches.
Next row: K1, K2tog, K4, SSK, K1. (8 sts)
Knit 2 rows even.
Next row: K1, K2tog, K2, SSK, K1. (6 sts)
Knit 1 row.
BO all sts, leaving a tail for seaming.
Legs (Make 4)
Two pieces per leg, four pieces total.
CO 12 sts.
Knit every row until piece measures 4 inches.
Next row: K2, K2tog, K4, SSK, K2. (10 sts)
Knit 2 rows even.
Next row: K2, K2tog, K2, SSK, K2. (8 sts)
Knit 1 row.
BO all sts, leaving a tail for seaming.
Assembly Instructions
This is the part where your individual pieces transform into a real bear, and it is more satisfying than you might expect. Take your time with the seaming because neat, consistent seaming makes the difference between a polished finished toy and one that looks a little rough around the edges. Use the whip stitch or mattress stitch, whichever you are more comfortable with. With garter stitch, a simple whip stitch worked just inside the edge looks clean and is easy to control.
Step 1: Assemble the Ears
Hold two ear pieces with wrong sides together. Using the long tail from one piece, whip stitch around the curved edges, leaving the cast-on edge open. Do not stuff the ears. Set the finished ears aside and repeat for the second ear.
Step 2: Assemble the Arms
Hold two arm pieces together, wrong sides facing. Whip stitch around all edges, leaving a small opening along one straight side. Stuff the arm lightly — you want it to have some give so it can be positioned naturally against the body, not stuffed so tightly that it sticks out rigidly. Close the opening with a few extra stitches. Repeat for the second arm.
Step 3: Assemble the Legs
Follow the same process as the arms. Hold two leg pieces together, whip stitch around the edges, leave a small opening, stuff firmly, and close. The legs can be stuffed a bit more firmly than the arms since they will support the seated position of the bear. Repeat for the second leg.
Step 4: Assemble the Body
Hold the two body pieces together, wrong sides facing. Before you seal the seam entirely, insert the legs along the bottom edge, spacing them evenly and pointing downward. Whip stitch the bottom edge closed, securing the legs as you go. Then continue whip stitching up the sides, inserting the arms at the upper sides of the body (positioned roughly where the “shoulders” would be) before closing those seams. Leave the top of the body open for stuffing.
Stuff the body firmly and evenly, pushing fiberfill into the rounded lower section first and working your way up. Close the top opening with whip stitch, leaving a gap just large enough to attach the head.
Step 5: Assemble the Head
Hold the two head pieces together and whip stitch around the edges, leaving the bottom edge open for stuffing. Stuff the head firmly so it holds its shape without being so taut that the seams strain. Close the bottom opening almost entirely, leaving just a small section open to attach to the body.
Step 6: Attach the Muzzle
Place the muzzle piece in the center-lower portion of the front head piece. Using a tapestry needle and your yarn tail, sew around the edges of the muzzle using small, even stitches. You can stuff a tiny amount of fiberfill behind the muzzle before closing the last few stitches to give it a slight three-dimensional projection, which creates that classic teddy bear snout look.
Step 7: Add the Face Details
If you are using safety eyes, insert them now, positioning them above the muzzle and roughly in line with the widest part of the head. Refer to the safety eye instructions to secure the backing washer on the inside of the head piece before stuffing is too dense to reach through easily — this step is best done before the final stuffing.
For embroidered eyes, use a doubled length of black yarn or embroidery floss. Bring your needle up from the back of the head at your chosen eye position, make a small oval or round shape by working several stitches close together, and secure on the inside with a knot.
For the nose, embroider a small triangle or oval at the very center of the muzzle using black yarn or floss. Work a vertical straight stitch downward from the base of the nose to create the classic bear nose and mouth shape, then add two diagonal stitches fanning outward at the bottom like a simple smile.
Step 8: Attach the Ears
Position the ears on the top of the head, spacing them symmetrically and angling them slightly outward for that friendly bear expression. Sew down the open cast-on edge of each ear firmly to the head using your yarn tail.
Step 9: Attach the Head to the Body
This final assembly step makes everything come together. Position the head on top of the body, centering it carefully. Using a long length of yarn and your tapestry needle, sew through the bottom edge of the head and the top opening of the body repeatedly, working in a circular pattern to create a strong, even join. Pull the yarn firmly as you go to close any gaps. Once the join feels secure, weave in all your ends thoroughly.
Finishing Touches and Customization Ideas
Your basic bear is complete, but there is so much room to personalize. A small knitted or crocheted scarf in a contrasting color loops easily around the neck and gives the bear a charming, finished look without adding much knitting time. You could knit a tiny pair of overalls or a simple rectangle vest in a bright color. Some knitters sew a small bow from ribbon just below one ear for a traditionally feminine touch.
If you want to give the bear a bit more character, try brushing the finished fabric lightly with a pet slicker brush. This raises the surface fibers slightly and gives the bear a softer, almost fuzzy texture that is irresistible to touch.
For a more rustic or heirloom feel, choose a natural wool yarn in an undyed or lightly speckled colorway. Wool gives garter stitch a beautiful texture and the slight lanolin content even in many commercial wools gives the finished toy a wonderful hand feel.
If you are knitting this bear as a gift and want to add a label, print a small tag on cardstock with the words “Hand Knitted With Love” and tie it through the bear’s wrist area with a small length of ribbon. These small details transform a handmade object into something that feels considered and complete.
Care Instructions for Your Finished Bear
If you used a machine-washable acrylic or superwash wool yarn, this bear can be washed in cold water on a gentle cycle and tumbled dry on low heat. Shape it back into its rounded form while it is still slightly damp and let it finish air drying.
If you used a non-superwash wool, hand washing in cool water with a gentle wool wash is recommended. Press out excess water in a towel and reshape before laying flat to dry.
Always check for any loose seams or embroidery threads before giving the bear to a young child, and inspect periodically over time to make sure everything remains securely attached.
A Few Tips for Success
If you are newer to knitting, the most important thing you can do is keep your tension even. Garter stitch can look slightly uneven when tension varies, especially in a contrasting color where every ridge is visible. Slow down on your first few rows of each piece, find a comfortable rhythm, and trust that your tension will regulate as you get into the flow.
Count your stitches after every decrease row. It only takes a second and saves you from discovering an error six rows later when you have to rip back all that work.
Do not underestimate the power of blocking, even for a toy. A light steam or a quick damp blocking before assembly smooths out any uneven spots and makes seaming much neater.
Finally, this pattern is intentionally forgiving. Small variations in your finished piece are part of what makes a handmade bear unique. No two bears knitted from this pattern will look exactly alike, and that is entirely the point. The small imperfections are the signature of the hands that made it.
Whether you are knitting this bear for a newborn, a toddler who refuses to sleep without a stuffed friend, or someone older who simply deserves something beautiful and handmade, this pattern gives you everything you need to create a lasting, cherished gift. Garter stitch never goes out of style, flat knitting keeps the process accessible to all skill levels, and the simple construction means you can finish this project in a weekend and have something genuinely lovely to show for your time. Cast on, knit every row, and enjoy every stitch.
