Free Garter Stitch Teddy Bear Knit Flat Knitting Pattern

Free Garter Stitch Teddy Bear Knit Flat Knitting Pattern

There is something undeniably special about a handmade teddy bear. Whether you are knitting one as a gift for a new baby, a birthday present for a toddler, or simply because you love creating soft and cuddly toys, a knitted bear has a warmth and personality that store-bought toys simply cannot replicate. The best part? You do not need to be an advanced knitter to make one. This free garter stitch teddy bear pattern is worked entirely flat, meaning you knit back and forth on straight needles rather than in the round, making it an ideal project for beginners and anyone who finds circular knitting a bit tricky.

Garter stitch is one of the most forgiving and beginner-friendly stitch patterns in knitting. Because every row is simply knit, there is no need to switch between knit and purl stitches, keep track of complicated stitch sequences, or read complex charts. The result is a wonderfully textured fabric with a lovely ridged appearance that gives your teddy bear a cozy, rustic charm. The thickness and slight stretchiness of garter stitch fabric also makes it great for stuffed toys, as it holds its shape well and hides any small imperfections in your tension.

This pattern uses basic shaping techniques like increases and decreases that even newer knitters will find manageable. Each piece of the bear is knitted separately and then seamed together and stuffed, so you can work at your own pace, one section at a time. By the end of this project, you will have a sweet, classic teddy bear ready to be loved.

What You Will Need

Before you cast on, gather your materials. You will not need much to make this little bear, which is part of what makes it such a satisfying and economical project.

For yarn, you will want a medium weight or worsted weight yarn in your chosen bear color. This pattern uses approximately 100 grams, though the exact amount will depend on how tightly you knit. Classic teddy bear shades like honey, caramel, oatmeal, cream, or chocolate brown all look wonderful, but there is absolutely no reason why your bear cannot be mint green, dusty rose, or any other color that brings you joy. A yarn with a slight fluff or texture can give your bear a softer, more plush appearance, though smooth yarns work beautifully too and make seaming easier.

You will also need a small amount of a contrasting yarn or embroidery thread in black or dark brown for the face details — the nose, mouth, and eye outlines if you choose to embroider rather than use safety eyes.

For needles, use a size that corresponds to your yarn — typically 4mm to 4.5mm (US size 6 to 7) for worsted weight. Going down half a needle size from the yarn’s recommendation is a good idea for toy knitting because a slightly tighter fabric prevents the stuffing from showing through.

Other supplies you will need include polyester fiberfill stuffing, a yarn needle for seaming and weaving in ends, scissors, and either a pair of safety eyes (9mm to 12mm work well for this size bear) or additional black yarn or embroidery floss for embroidered eyes. If the bear is intended for a child under three years old, embroidered features are strongly recommended over any attachments that could become a choking hazard.

A few locking stitch markers will also come in handy for keeping track of your place, though they are not strictly required.

Gauge

Gauge is not critical for this project since it is a toy rather than a fitted garment, but it will affect the finished size of your bear. Knitting loosely will result in a larger bear, while tighter knitting produces a smaller one. As a general guideline, you are aiming for approximately 18 to 20 stitches and 32 to 36 rows over four inches in garter stitch with the suggested yarn and needle size. A finished bear knit to this gauge will measure approximately 10 to 12 inches tall when stuffed.

Abbreviations

Throughout this pattern, the following abbreviations are used:

CO means cast on. BO means bind off. K means knit. K2tog means knit two stitches together, which is a right-leaning decrease. Kfb means knit into the front and back of the same stitch, which is an increase. RS means right side. WS means wrong side. Rep means repeat. St or sts means stitch or stitches. Rem means remaining.

Since this is an all-garter-stitch pattern, every row is simply knit, regardless of whether it is the right side or wrong side. The RS and WS notations are only used to help you orient your work during assembly.

The Pattern

Body (Make 2 Pieces)

The body is worked from the bottom up. Cast on 20 sts.

Rows 1 through 4: Knit all stitches.

Row 5 (increase row): Kfb, knit to last stitch, kfb. You now have 22 sts.

Rows 6 through 8: Knit all stitches.

Row 9: Kfb, knit to last stitch, kfb. You now have 24 sts.

Rows 10 through 20: Knit all stitches.

Row 21 (decrease row): K2tog, knit to last 2 sts, K2tog. You now have 22 sts.

Row 22: Knit.

Row 23: K2tog, knit to last 2 sts, K2tog. You now have 20 sts.

Row 24: Knit.

Row 25: K2tog, knit to last 2 sts, K2tog. You now have 18 sts.

Rows 26 through 28: Knit all stitches.

Bind off all stitches. Make a second identical piece. These two pieces will be seamed together to form the body.

Head (Make 2 Pieces)

The head is also worked from the bottom up and is slightly smaller than the body.

Cast on 16 sts.

Rows 1 through 4: Knit all stitches.

Row 5: Kfb, knit to last stitch, kfb. You now have 18 sts.

Rows 6 through 8: Knit all stitches.

Row 9: Kfb, knit to last stitch, kfb. You now have 20 sts.

Rows 10 through 16: Knit all stitches.

Row 17: K2tog, knit to last 2 sts, K2tog. You now have 18 sts.

Row 18: Knit.

Row 19: K2tog, knit to last 2 sts, K2tog. You now have 16 sts.

Row 20: Knit.

Row 21: K2tog, knit to last 2 sts, K2tog. You now have 14 sts.

Bind off all stitches. Make a second identical piece.

Ears (Make 4 Pieces)

The ears are small semicircular pieces. You will knit four identical pieces and join them in pairs.

Cast on 10 sts.

Rows 1 through 4: Knit all stitches.

Row 5: K2tog, knit to last 2 sts, K2tog. You now have 8 sts.

Row 6: Knit.

Row 7: K2tog, knit to last 2 sts, K2tog. You now have 6 sts.

Row 8: Knit.

Bind off all stitches. Make three more identical pieces for a total of four ear panels.

Arms (Make 4 Pieces)

Cast on 10 sts.

Rows 1 through 4: Knit all stitches.

Row 5: Kfb, knit to last stitch, kfb. You now have 12 sts.

Rows 6 through 18: Knit all stitches.

Row 19: K2tog, knit to last 2 sts, K2tog. You now have 10 sts.

Row 20: Knit.

Row 21: K2tog, knit to last 2 sts, K2tog. You now have 8 sts.

Bind off all stitches. Make three more identical pieces for a total of four arm panels.

Legs (Make 4 Pieces)

The legs are a little longer and wider than the arms.

Cast on 12 sts.

Rows 1 through 4: Knit all stitches.

Row 5: Kfb, knit to last stitch, kfb. You now have 14 sts.

Rows 6 through 22: Knit all stitches.

Row 23: K2tog, knit to last 2 sts, K2tog. You now have 12 sts.

Row 24: Knit.

Row 25: K2tog, knit to last 2 sts, K2tog. You now have 10 sts.

Bind off all stitches. Make three more identical pieces for a total of four leg panels.

Muzzle (Make 1)

The muzzle gives the bear a sweet, slightly protruding snout.

Cast on 12 sts.

Rows 1 through 6: Knit all stitches.

Row 7: K2tog, knit to last 2 sts, K2tog. You now have 10 sts.

Row 8: Knit.

Bind off all stitches.

Assembly

Once all pieces are knitted and you have woven in the ends on each one, it is time to put your bear together. This is where your creation really comes to life, and while seaming can feel a little fiddly at first, the garter stitch edge makes it relatively forgiving. Use a yarn needle threaded with a length of your main yarn and work mattress stitch or whipstitch along the edges of each piece, depending on your preference. Mattress stitch creates a nearly invisible seam, while whipstitch is quicker and adds a slight decorative edge that suits the handmade aesthetic of a knitted toy.

Start with the body. Hold the two body pieces with wrong sides together and seam around the edges, leaving a gap of about two inches at the bottom for stuffing. Once seamed on three sides and partially along the fourth, stuff the body firmly with fiberfill — you want it to feel plump and solid, not floppy. Then close the remaining gap and secure your yarn.

Do the same with the head. Seam the two head pieces together, leaving a gap, stuff firmly, and close. Then attach the head to the top of the body by stitching all the way around the base of the head, working in small, even stitches to create a secure join.

For the ears, place two ear panels together with wrong sides facing and seam around the curved edges. Do not stuff the ears — leave them flat. Fold the cast-on edge of each ear slightly inward to create a rounded shape and stitch the ears to the top of the head, positioning them symmetrically. A few inches apart, placed slightly back on the head, tends to give the most classic bear look.

Seam the arms in pairs, leaving the cast-on edge open for stuffing. Stuff each arm lightly to moderately — you want them to be soft and poseable rather than rigidly overstuffed. Close the openings and attach the arms to either side of the upper body, stitching securely through both layers so they are firmly attached but can still be positioned in different ways.

Do the same with the legs, attaching them symmetrically to the lower body. Position them so the bear can sit up when placed on a flat surface, with the legs extending slightly outward.

Now position the muzzle in the center of the face, slightly below where the eyes will go. Stitch around the edges, stuffing lightly as you go to give it a rounded, protruding appearance. This small detail makes a big difference to the expressiveness of your bear’s face.

Adding the Face

The face is where your teddy bear’s personality truly emerges. If you are using safety eyes, insert them through the head piece before you close the seam, positioning them above the muzzle and roughly symmetrical. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for securing the washers on the inside.

For embroidered eyes, thread a yarn needle with black yarn or embroidery floss and work small, tight satin stitches in a circular shape to create solid, round eyes. Alternatively, you can work a few overlapping stitches in a cross or star shape for a simpler look.

For the nose, embroider a small oval or triangular shape in black or dark brown at the top center of the muzzle using satin stitch. Then work two straight stitches downward and slightly outward from the base of the nose to create a simple mouth. This classic inverted Y shape is the signature of a beloved teddy bear face, and even the simplest version looks charming.

If you like, you can use a blush brush or a small amount of pink or peach crayon rubbed gently onto the cheeks for a rosy look.

Finishing Touches and Care

Once the face is complete, take a moment to look at your bear from all angles and adjust any areas that need attention. If a seam looks uneven, a few extra stitches from the back can smooth things out. If the bear feels a bit wobbly, adding a little more stuffing through one of the seams with the tip of a pencil or chopstick can help.

Give your bear a gentle tug all over to make sure every seam is secure before gifting it, especially if it is destined for a young child. You can also tie a simple ribbon bow around the neck for an extra decorative touch.

For washing, hand washing in cool water with a gentle detergent is the safest option for knitted toys. Squeeze out excess water gently, reshape the bear while damp, and allow to dry flat away from direct sunlight or heat. Depending on the yarn fiber content, some teddy bears may be machine washable on a delicate cycle inside a mesh laundry bag, but always check your yarn label first.

Tips for Customizing Your Teddy Bear

One of the greatest joys of making handmade toys is the freedom to personalize them. Here are a few ideas to make your bear uniquely your own.

Trying a variegated or self-striping yarn creates a wonderfully whimsical effect without any extra effort. You can also knit the body and head in one color and the muzzle, inner ears, and paw pads in a contrasting shade for a two-tone bear. Using a super bulky yarn and larger needles will give you an oversized, jumbo version that makes a wonderful nursery decoration or extra-huggable companion.

Adding a small knitted or fabric bow tie, a tiny vest, or even miniature knitted overalls can transform your basic bear into a character with real personality. A tiny sewn-on heart or a name embroidered on the foot are other sweet details that make a handmade bear feel even more special as a gift.

If you have leftover yarn from other projects, a teddy bear is a fantastic stash-busting project. Mixing textures — say, a smooth yarn for the body and a fluffy boucle for the tummy — can give your bear an interesting, tactile quality.

Why Flat Knitting Works So Well for This Pattern

Many knitted toy patterns require knitting in the round, which can be challenging for newer knitters or those who find double-pointed needles frustrating. Working this teddy bear flat on straight needles makes the project accessible to a much wider range of skill levels. There are no complex techniques required beyond basic casting on, binding off, knitting, and simple increases and decreases — all things that are easy to learn from tutorials and quick to master with a little practice.

The garter stitch fabric produced by knitting every row flat is also wonderfully stable and does not curl at the edges the way stockinette stitch does, which makes blocking unnecessary and assembly much simpler. The edges lie flat naturally, making it easier to line up pieces for seaming.

Flat knitting also makes it easy to spot and correct any mistakes as you go, since you can lay your work down on a flat surface and see exactly what is happening without having to hold it in a particular position.

A Pattern Worth Returning To Again and Again

This free garter stitch teddy bear pattern is the kind of project you will find yourself coming back to repeatedly. Once you have made one, you will find that you want to make more — in different colors, different sizes, and with different personality details. They make wonderful handmade gifts for baby showers, birthdays, holidays, and just because occasions. A basket of homemade bears in different colors makes a lovely display, and

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Last Update: October 18, 2026