Create a Charming Amigurumi Pig Pattern for All Ages – FREE CROCHET PATTERN

There is something undeniably heartwarming about a little crocheted pig sitting on a shelf, tucked into a gift bag, or clutched in the hands of a delighted child. Amigurumi, the Japanese art of crocheting small, stuffed yarn creatures, has taken the crafting world by storm over the past decade, and it is easy to see why. These tiny, round-bodied animals are satisfying to make, quick to finish, and absolutely irresistible to give as gifts. If you have been searching for a free amigurumi pig crochet pattern that works for beginners and experienced crafters alike, you have come to exactly the right place.

This free crochet pattern from Craftoratortor walks you through every single step of creating an adorable stuffed pig from snout to curly tail. Whether you are picking up a crochet hook for the very first time or you have a basket full of finished amigurumi already, this pattern is designed to be clear, fun, and completely achievable. By the end, you will have a sweet little pig that works equally well as a nursery decoration, a birthday present, a baby shower gift, or simply a cheerful companion for yourself.

Let’s dive in.

Why Pigs Make the Perfect Amigurumi Project

Pigs hold a special place in the world of amigurumi. Their simple, round bodies are ideal for the magic ring construction that forms the foundation of almost every amigurumi piece. Their snouts are satisfying little cylinders to attach, their ears are quick flat pieces that add enormous personality, and that signature curly tail always gets a gasp of delight from anyone who picks one up.

Beyond their structural simplicity, pigs are universally loved. From classic storybook characters like Wilbur and Piglet to Chinese zodiac symbolism and the universal association with good luck, pigs carry a warmth and cheerfulness that makes them ideal gifts for people of all ages. A tiny crocheted pig is the kind of handmade gift that people keep for years.

This pattern is also a wonderful introduction to amigurumi for anyone who has basic single crochet skills but has not yet tried making a three-dimensional stuffed figure. The techniques involved, primarily single crochet worked in continuous rounds, increases, decreases, and simple assembly, are the building blocks of nearly every amigurumi pattern you will ever want to make. Master this little pig, and you will have the confidence to tackle a whole zoo.

Materials You Will Need

Before you begin, gather everything on this list so your crafting session flows smoothly from start to finish.

Yarn: Worsted weight yarn (Category 4) in pink. You will need approximately 50–70 yards for the body and main pieces. You will also want a small amount of dark pink or dusty rose for the snout, a tiny bit of white or cream for the eyes, and black for pupils or safety eye placement.

Hook: 3.5mm or 4.0mm crochet hook. The slightly tighter gauge of a 3.5mm hook produces a firmer fabric that holds its shape well and prevents stuffing from showing through, which is ideal for amigurumi. If your tension tends to run loose, go down to a 3.0mm.

Safety eyes: 9mm or 10mm black safety eyes, two pieces. These give the most polished, professional finish. If you are making this pig for a child under three years old, embroider the eyes with black yarn instead, as safety eyes are a choking hazard.

Polyfill stuffing: A small bag of fiberfill stuffing. You will not need much for a pig this size, but having enough on hand ensures you can stuff firmly for a satisfying, well-shaped figure.

Yarn needle: A blunt tapestry needle for weaving in ends and sewing pieces together.

Stitch markers: At least two, ideally locking stitch markers. These are essential for keeping track of where your rounds begin and end when working in continuous rounds.

Scissors.

Optional: Embroidery thread or floss in pink or dark pink for the nostrils on the snout.

Skill Level and Size

This pattern is rated as beginner-friendly with one intermediate technique, the magic ring (also called a magic circle), which is easy to learn from a quick video tutorial if you have not tried it before. All other stitches are single crochet, increases (working two single crochets into one stitch), and decreases (the invisible decrease, which involves inserting your hook through the front loops of two consecutive stitches before completing the stitch).

The finished pig measures approximately 5 inches tall and 4 inches wide when made with worsted weight yarn and a 3.5mm hook. This is a lovely palm-sized figure, easy to display and comfortable to hold.

Abbreviations and Stitch Guide

Throughout this pattern, the following abbreviations are used. All stitches are worked in American crochet terminology.

MR – Magic ring
sc – Single crochet
inc – Increase (2 sc in the same stitch)
dec – Invisible decrease (insert hook through front loops of next 2 stitches, yarn over, pull through both loops, yarn over, pull through 2 loops on hook)
sl st – Slip stitch
ch – Chain
st – Stitch
sts – Stitches
BLO – Back loop only
FLO – Front loop only
R – Round

All rounds are worked in continuous rounds unless otherwise noted. Do not join at the end of each round unless the pattern specifically instructs you to.

The Pattern

Body

The body is the largest piece and the starting point for your pig. Work this piece firmly so the shape holds well once stuffed.

R1: MR, 6 sc into ring. (6 sts)
R2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
R3: sc 1, inc repeat around. (18 sts)
R4: sc 2, inc repeat around. (24 sts)
R5: sc 3, inc repeat around. (30 sts)
R6: sc 4, inc repeat around. (36 sts)
R7: sc 5, inc repeat around. (42 sts)
R8–R15: sc in each st around. (42 sts) — This is 8 rounds of even single crochet that form the barrel of the body.
R16: sc 5, dec repeat around. (36 sts)
R17: sc 4, dec repeat around. (30 sts)
R18: sc 3, dec repeat around. (24 sts)

At this point, insert your safety eyes between rounds 10 and 11, with approximately 7–8 stitches of space between them. If you are embroidering the eyes instead, mark the placement with a pin and embroider after assembly. Begin stuffing the body firmly.

R19: sc 2, dec repeat around. (18 sts)
R20: sc 1, dec repeat around. (12 sts)
R21: dec around. (6 sts)

Fasten off, leaving a short tail. Use your yarn needle to close the remaining 6-stitch gap by weaving through the front loops of each stitch and pulling snugly. Weave in the end.

Head

The head is worked the same way as the body but slightly larger, giving your pig that endearing big-headed amigurumi proportion.

R1: MR, 6 sc into ring. (6 sts)
R2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
R3: sc 1, inc repeat around. (18 sts)
R4: sc 2, inc repeat around. (24 sts)
R5: sc 3, inc repeat around. (30 sts)
R6: sc 4, inc repeat around. (36 sts)
R7: sc 5, inc repeat around. (42 sts)
R8: sc 6, inc repeat around. (48 sts)
R9–R16: sc in each st around. (48 sts)
R17: sc 6, dec repeat around. (42 sts)
R18: sc 5, dec repeat around. (36 sts)
R19: sc 4, dec repeat around. (30 sts)

Insert safety eyes between rounds 12 and 13, approximately 10 stitches apart. Stuff the head firmly.

R20: sc 3, dec repeat around. (24 sts)
R21: sc 2, dec repeat around. (18 sts)
R22: sc 1, dec repeat around. (12 sts)
R23: dec around. (6 sts)

Fasten off and close the gap as with the body. Weave in the end.

Snout

The snout is a small, flat cylinder worked in dark pink or dusty rose yarn. It gives the pig its most recognizable feature.

R1: MR, 6 sc into ring. (6 sts)
R2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
R3: sc 1, inc repeat around. (18 sts)
R4: sc in each st around. (18 sts)
R5: sc in BLO of each st around. (18 sts) — This creates a slight ledge that makes the bottom of the snout sit flat against the face.

Sl st into the next stitch and fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff the snout. Use your yarn needle or the eraser end of a pencil to lightly shape it into a round disc. If you like, use embroidery thread to add two small oval or circular nostrils near the top of the snout before sewing it on.

Ears (Make 2)

The ears are small, flat ovals worked in pink yarn.

R1: MR, 6 sc into ring. (6 sts)
R2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
R3: sc 1, inc repeat around. (18 sts)
R4–R5: sc in each st around. (18 sts)
R6: sc 1, dec repeat around. (12 sts)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Flatten the ear gently so the two edges come together, giving it a slight cupped shape. This natural cupping is what makes amigurumi pig ears look so realistic and charming.

Arms (Make 2)

R1: MR, 6 sc into ring. (6 sts)
R2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
R3–R4: sc in each st around. (12 sts)
R5: sc 1, dec repeat around. (8 sts)
R6–R12: sc in each st around. (8 sts)

Stuff lightly, just enough to give the arms a little substance without making them stiff. Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Flatten the top of the arm slightly before sewing to the body for a neater attachment.

Legs (Make 2)

R1: MR, 6 sc into ring. (6 sts)
R2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
R3–R4: sc in each st around. (12 sts) — Use darker pink for these two rounds if you want to suggest little hooves.
R5: sc 1, dec repeat around. (8 sts)
R6–R10: sc in each st around. (8 sts)

Stuff lightly and fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Tail

The curly pig tail is one of the most delightful details of this pattern. It is simply a crocheted chain that naturally spirals when made with the right tension.

Using pink yarn, ch 12 stitches. Then work 3 sc into each chain stitch across. The extra stitches cause the chain to spiral into a natural curl. Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing.

Assembly

Assembly is where your pig truly comes to life. Take your time here, pinning pieces in place before sewing to make sure you are happy with the positioning.

Start by attaching the head to the body. Position the head so it sits slightly forward on the body rather than perfectly centered on top, which gives the pig a more character-filled, animated look. Use the long yarn tail from the head to sew around the opening with a whip stitch, pulling the yarn through corresponding stitches on the body. Add a little extra stuffing through the opening before you close it completely.

Next, center the snout on the front of the face, roughly in rounds 14–16. Sew it on with a whip stitch around the entire outer edge, making sure it lies flat and evenly attached. If you have not already embroidered the nostrils, do so now before it becomes harder to access.

Attach the ears to the top of the head, roughly between rounds 5 and 10. The ears should sit at a slight outward angle rather than straight up, which looks more natural and gives the pig a relaxed, friendly expression. The cupped shape you created will help them fold slightly forward in a charming way.

Sew the arms to the sides of the body, positioned at roughly rounds 5–6 of the body. Angle them slightly downward and forward so the pig looks like it is ready for a little hug.

Attach the legs to the bottom front of the body, one on each side, so the pig can sit upright on a flat surface. Test the positioning before you sew them permanently by setting your pig on a table and adjusting until it balances nicely.

Finally, attach the curly tail to the back of the body at roughly round 8–10. Use just a few stitches to anchor the beginning of the tail at the base, letting the spiral hang freely. This detail always gets the most enthusiastic reactions.

Weave in all remaining ends securely, and your pig is complete.

Customization Ideas

One of the best things about this free amigurumi pig pattern is how easy it is to personalize. Here are a few ideas to spark your creativity.

You can change the size entirely by simply switching yarn weights. Use a DK weight yarn with a 3.0mm hook for a tiny pocket pig, or try chunky yarn with a 6.0mm hook for a large, huggable version that would make a wonderful pillow companion. The proportions of the pattern stay the same; only the scale changes.

Consider adding a little outfit. A simple crocheted bow made from a chain of 15 stitches folded and tied works beautifully as an accessory. A tiny scarf, a hat, or even a little apron can transform your basic pig into a character with a whole personality.

Change the color scheme completely. While pink is the classic choice, a gray pig with a lighter gray snout and ears has a surprisingly sophisticated, modern look. A pale lavender pig is absolutely dreamy as a nursery decor piece. You could also go fully whimsical with a sparkly or variegated yarn for a magical piglet vibe.

If you are making a set of pig friends, try varying the expressions by changing the placement of the safety eyes slightly. Eyes placed further apart and closer to the top of the head give a wide-eyed, innocent look. Eyes placed closer together and lower on the face create a more mischievous, curious expression.

Tips for Amigurumi Success

A few practical notes that will make this project go more smoothly, especially if you are newer to amigurumi.

Work with a slightly tighter tension than you would for regular crochet. Amigurumi pieces need a firm fabric so the stuffing does not show through the stitches. If you find your work is loose and you can see the white stuffing through the gaps, try going down half a hook size.

Always use locking stitch markers rather than relying on mental counting when working in continuous rounds. It is very easy to lose track of where a round begins, especially in rounds 8 through 15 of the