Amigurumi Pig Crochet Free Pattern
There is something undeniably charming about a chubby little crocheted pig. Whether you are making one for a child, a gift, or just for the joy of crafting, an amigurumi pig is one of those projects that never gets old. The round belly, the curly tail, the snout that looks like it was made for sniffing out truffles — every detail comes together into something that feels both adorable and deeply satisfying to create. Best of all, you do not need to spend money on a pattern to get started. This free amigurumi pig crochet pattern will walk you through every step, from the very first magic ring to the final embroidered smile.
Whether you are a beginner picking up a crochet hook for the first time or an experienced amigurumi maker looking for a fun weekend project, this pattern is written to be as clear and accessible as possible. You will find a full materials list, gauge information, stitch abbreviations, and detailed round-by-round instructions for every single piece of the pig. By the time you finish reading, you will have everything you need to bring your own little piggy to life.
What Is Amigurumi?
Before diving into the pattern itself, it is worth taking a moment to appreciate the art form behind it. Amigurumi is a Japanese word that combines “ami,” meaning knitted or crocheted, and “nuigurumi,” meaning stuffed doll. The result is the small, cute, stuffed animals and characters that have become beloved all over the world. What makes amigurumi so appealing — beyond the obvious cuteness — is that the technique is relatively forgiving. The tight single crochet stitches used in most amigurumi projects create a dense fabric that holds its shape beautifully and conceals minor mistakes with ease.
Pigs are one of the most popular amigurumi subjects, and it is easy to see why. Their round, simplified bodies are perfectly suited to the amigurumi style, and their characteristic features — the flat snout, the small triangular ears, the curly tail — translate into crochet wonderfully. This pattern captures all of those features while keeping the construction simple enough for anyone to follow.
Materials You Will Need
To complete this amigurumi pig, gather the following supplies before you begin.
You will need worsted weight yarn in pink. Approximately 100 to 150 grams should be more than enough for a finished pig that measures about 15 centimeters or 6 inches tall. You can also use a slightly darker pink for the snout and inner ears if you want some added dimension, though a single shade of pink works beautifully too.
For the hook, a 3.5mm crochet hook is ideal when working with standard worsted weight yarn. If you tend to crochet loosely, consider going down to a 3.0mm hook to keep your stitches tight and prevent the stuffing from showing through.
You will also need a small amount of black yarn or embroidery thread for the eyes and nostrils, polyester fiberfill stuffing, a yarn needle for sewing pieces together, and a pair of stitch markers to keep track of the beginning of each round. Some crocheters also like to use safety eyes in a size of 9mm or 12mm as an alternative to embroidered eyes, which can give the pig a slightly more polished look.
Optional but helpful: a small piece of wire or pipe cleaner for the tail, which you can wrap with yarn to create that signature curly pig tail shape.
Gauge
Gauge is not critical for amigurumi the way it is for garments, but it does affect the size of your finished pig. Working in magic rings and single crochet, your gauge should be approximately 4 stitches and 4 rows per 2.5 centimeters (1 inch) with a 3.5mm hook and worsted weight yarn. If you are significantly off from this gauge, your pig will simply be a bit larger or smaller than described.
Stitch Abbreviations
The following abbreviations are used throughout this pattern.
MR stands for magic ring. Ch means chain. Sl st means slip stitch. Sc means single crochet. Inc means increase, which is two single crochets worked into the same stitch. Dec means invisible decrease, which is a decrease worked into the front loops of two consecutive stitches. FLO means front loops only. BLO means back loops only. St means stitch. Rnd means round.
All rounds are worked in a continuous spiral unless otherwise noted. Do not join at the end of each round unless specifically instructed.
Pattern Instructions
The Body
Start with a magic ring.
Rnd 1: Work 6 sc into the MR. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: [Sc 1, inc] repeat around. (18 sts)
Rnd 4: [Sc 2, inc] repeat around. (24 sts)
Rnd 5: [Sc 3, inc] repeat around. (30 sts)
Rnd 6: [Sc 4, inc] repeat around. (36 sts)
Rnd 7: [Sc 5, inc] repeat around. (42 sts)
Rnd 8: [Sc 6, inc] repeat around. (48 sts)
Rnds 9 through 18: Sc in each st around. (48 sts) — work these 10 rounds even without any increases or decreases.
Rnd 19: [Sc 6, dec] repeat around. (42 sts)
Rnd 20: [Sc 5, dec] repeat around. (36 sts)
Rnd 21: [Sc 4, dec] repeat around. (30 sts)
At this point, begin stuffing the body firmly. Continue stuffing as you work the remaining rounds.
Rnd 22: [Sc 3, dec] repeat around. (24 sts)
Rnd 23: [Sc 2, dec] repeat around. (18 sts)
Rnd 24: [Sc 1, dec] repeat around. (12 sts)
Rnd 25: Dec around. (6 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a short tail. Use your yarn needle to close the remaining hole by running the yarn through the front loops of the remaining 6 stitches and pulling tight.
The Head
Start with a magic ring.
Rnd 1: Work 6 sc into the MR. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: [Sc 1, inc] repeat around. (18 sts)
Rnd 4: [Sc 2, inc] repeat around. (24 sts)
Rnd 5: [Sc 3, inc] repeat around. (30 sts)
Rnd 6: [Sc 4, inc] repeat around. (36 sts)
Rnd 7: [Sc 5, inc] repeat around. (42 sts)
Rnds 8 through 16: Sc in each st around. (42 sts) — 9 rounds even.
Rnd 17: [Sc 5, dec] repeat around. (36 sts)
Rnd 18: [Sc 4, dec] repeat around. (30 sts)
Before continuing, attach your safety eyes or embroider the eyes between rounds 12 and 13, spacing them about 10 to 12 stitches apart. This is also the time to position the snout (instructions below) if you want to pin it in place before closing the head.
Rnd 19: [Sc 3, dec] repeat around. (24 sts)
Rnd 20: [Sc 2, dec] repeat around. (18 sts)
Begin stuffing the head firmly.
Rnd 21: [Sc 1, dec] repeat around. (12 sts)
Rnd 22: Dec around. (6 sts)
Fasten off and close the hole as with the body.
The Snout
Start with a magic ring.
Rnd 1: Work 6 sc into the MR. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: [Sc 1, inc] repeat around. (18 sts)
Rnd 4: Sc in each st around. (18 sts)
Rnd 5: Sc in each st around. (18 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Lightly stuff the snout before attaching it to the head. Using black yarn or embroidery thread, stitch two small nostrils on the front of the snout. These can be simple French knots or small straight stitches shaped into oval or round holes, whichever you prefer. Sew the snout to the center front of the head, centered around rounds 13 to 16.
The Ears (Make Two)
Start with a magic ring.
Rnd 1: Work 6 sc into the MR. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: [Sc 1, inc] repeat around. (18 sts)
Rnd 4: Sc in each st around. (18 sts)
Fold the ear flat and work 9 sc through both layers to close the bottom of the ear. This creates the characteristic flat triangular ear shape. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Sew the ears to the top of the head, positioning them on either side roughly at rounds 4 to 6 of the head.
For the inner ear detail, you can either use a slightly darker pink yarn to crochet a smaller oval and sew it onto the front of each ear, or simply use a few stitches of darker yarn to create a simple inner ear shape with embroidery. This step is optional but adds a lovely touch of realism.
The Arms (Make Two)
Start with a magic ring.
Rnd 1: Work 6 sc into the MR. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnds 3 through 4: Sc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 5: [Sc 2, dec] repeat around. (9 sts)
Rnds 6 through 12: Sc in each st around. (9 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Lightly stuff the lower portion of the arm only, leaving the top portion flat so it sews onto the body more cleanly. Sew the arms to the sides of the body at approximately rounds 20 to 22 from the bottom of the body.
The Legs (Make Two)
Start with a magic ring.
Rnd 1: Work 6 sc into the MR. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: [Sc 1, inc] repeat around. (18 sts)
Rnds 4 through 6: Sc in each st around. (18 sts)
Rnd 7: [Sc 1, dec] repeat around. (12 sts)
Rnds 8 through 14: Sc in each st around. (12 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Stuff the legs firmly. Sew them to the bottom of the body, positioning them so the pig can sit upright without tipping over. Spacing the legs about 6 to 8 stitches apart usually works well.
The Tail
The tail is one of the most delightful details on a crocheted pig. For a simple curly tail, cut a length of yarn about 20 centimeters long. Thread it onto your yarn needle and loop it through a stitch at the back of the body where you want the tail to sit. If you want a more dramatic curl, wrap the yarn around a pencil or knitting needle while it is slightly damp and allow it to dry in place before attaching it. Alternatively, wrap a small pipe cleaner with pink yarn, twist it into a spiral, and sew it to the back of the body for a tail with a bit more structural integrity.
Assembling Your Amigurumi Pig
Assembly is where your pig really comes to life. Begin by sewing the head to the body, making sure it is centered and sitting at a slight forward tilt, which gives amigurumi figures their characteristic charming look. Use a generous number of stitches all the way around the neck join and weave your yarn through the join several times for extra security.
Next, attach the snout if you have not already done so, then the ears. Take your time positioning the ears before committing to sewing them down — small changes in placement can make a big difference in the pig’s overall expression. Sew the arms to the sides of the body and the legs to the bottom. Finally, attach the tail to the back.
Once all pieces are attached, go back and add the facial details if you have not already. The eyes should sit above the snout, far enough apart to give the face an open, friendly expression. If you are embroidering the eyes, a simple satin stitch circle in black looks clean and polished. A tiny highlight stitch in white yarn adds a lovely sparkle. Embroider a small smile below the snout using a few simple stitches.
Tips for a Perfect Amigurumi Pig
There are a handful of techniques and habits that can take your amigurumi from good to great. First, always use a stitch marker to track the beginning of each round. Because amigurumi is worked in continuous spirals, it is surprisingly easy to lose your place, especially on the longer rounds.
Second, stuff firmly but not rigidly. You want the finished pig to have a pleasing softness when squeezed while still holding its shape well. Under-stuffed amigurumi tend to look a bit deflated; over-stuffed ones can pucker and distort the stitches.
Third, when sewing pieces together, use the same yarn you crocheted with. This ensures the joining seams blend invisibly into the fabric. If you are sewing the head onto the body, take the time to pin it in position from multiple angles before you begin sewing. A head that sits slightly off-center or tilts at an unintended angle can be corrected easily at the pinning stage but is frustrating to fix after sewing.
Fourth, weave in your ends thoroughly. Amigurumi toys often end up in the hands of children who will squeeze and tug them without mercy. A few extra passes of your yarn needle through the interior stuffing will keep all those ends secure for years.
Finally, do not worry too much about perfection. Amigurumi has an inherently handmade charm, and tiny imperfections are part of what makes each piece unique. If one ear sits slightly higher than the other or the smile tilts just a little to one side, that is not a flaw — that is character.
Customizing Your Pig
One of the best things about free crochet patterns is that they serve as a starting point rather than a rigid blueprint. Once you have made the basic pig, there are so many ways to customize it. Try making a mother pig and a family of smaller piglets by scaling down the pattern. You can use a size 2.5mm hook with the same yarn to create a smaller version, or switch to fingering weight yarn for a truly tiny piglet.
You can also dress your pig. A small crocheted apron, a bow tied around the neck, or even a tiny hat can transform a plain pink pig into a character with a whole story behind it. If you are making the pig as a gift, personalizing it in this way turns a lovely handmade toy into something truly special.
Different shades of pink can completely change the mood of the finished pig. A pale blush pink reads as soft and delicate; a bright bubblegum pink is cheerful and playful; a deeper dusty rose feels vintage and cozy. You can even make a brown or black pig for a heritage breed look.
Why Make Amigurumi?
Beyond the obvious result of having an adorable stuffed animal on your shelf or in your hands, there are many reasons why amigurumi has become such a beloved craft worldwide. The projects are relatively small and portable, making them perfect for crocheting on the go. Each piece can be completed in a single sitting if you have a few hours, which gives beginners a quick sense of accomplishment and keeps experienced crafters engaged.
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