Amigurumi Monkey Crochet Pattern: Your Complete Step-by-Step Guide to a Cuddly Handmade Friend
There is something undeniably charming about a tiny crocheted monkey sitting on a shelf, tucked into a child’s arms, or hanging from a bag as a keychain charm. Amigurumi, the Japanese art of crocheting small stuffed figures, has taken the crafting world by storm, and the monkey is one of the most beloved characters in the entire amigurumi universe. With its expressive face, round belly, and curling tail, the amigurumi monkey captures a playful spirit that makes it perfect as a gift, a keepsake, or a satisfying personal project for crafters of all experience levels.
This complete amigurumi monkey crochet pattern will walk you through everything you need — from materials and abbreviations all the way to the finishing touches that bring your little primate to life. Whether you are a seasoned amigurumi maker or picking up a hook for one of your first plush projects, this guide is written to be clear, encouraging, and comprehensive.
What Is Amigurumi and Why Make a Monkey?
Amigurumi (編み包み) literally translates from Japanese as “knitted or crocheted stuffed toy.” The style is characterized by oversized round heads, small limbs, safety eyes, and tight stitches that prevent stuffing from showing through. While amigurumi can depict almost anything — from vegetables to mythical creatures — animals are the most popular subjects, and the monkey sits near the top of every crafter’s wish list.
The monkey’s anatomy translates beautifully into crochet. Its oval body, distinct muzzle, long arms, and signature tail each become satisfying individual pieces to work and then assemble. The finished toy has a lifelike character even when made with basic stitches, which makes it an ideal project for building confidence as an amigurumi maker.
Materials and Tools
Before you begin, gather everything you will need. Having all your materials ready makes the process smooth and enjoyable.
Yarn: You will need approximately 150–200 yards of worsted weight (size 4) yarn in your main body color. Brown, tan, golden yellow, and warm gray are all classic monkey choices. You will also need a small amount of a contrasting color — usually a lighter beige or cream — for the muzzle, inner ears, and belly patch. Some makers also add a tiny bit of black or dark brown for accent details.
Hook: A 3.5 mm or 4.0 mm crochet hook is ideal for worsted weight yarn when making amigurumi. Using a hook slightly smaller than the yarn label recommends creates a tighter fabric that holds its shape and hides the stuffing inside.
Safety eyes: Two black safety eyes in 9 mm or 12 mm size work beautifully. Always attach safety eyes before closing up any piece if there is any chance the toy will be given to a child under three, as they cannot be removed once set. For toys intended for very young children, embroider the eyes with black yarn instead.
Polyester fiberfill stuffing: A good-quality fiberfill gives your monkey a soft, full shape. Have a generous handful ready.
Yarn needle: A blunt tapestry needle is essential for sewing pieces together and weaving in ends.
Stitch markers: Use a stitch marker or a small piece of contrasting yarn to mark the beginning of each round. This is especially helpful when working in continuous rounds.
Scissors: A small, sharp pair of scissors for cutting yarn cleanly.
Skill Level and Gauge
This pattern is rated as beginner to intermediate. You should be comfortable with the magic ring (also called the magic circle or adjustable ring), single crochet, increasing, decreasing, and working in continuous rounds. All of these techniques are easy to learn with a quick video tutorial if they are new to you.
Gauge is not critical for amigurumi in the way it is for garments, but consistent tension matters. A tighter gauge produces a firmer, rounder figure. A loose gauge may allow stuffing to peek through. If you find your stitches too loose, simply drop down one hook size.
Abbreviations Used in This Pattern
MR — magic ring
ch — chain
sl st — slip stitch
sc — single crochet
inc — increase (2 single crochets in the same stitch)
dec — invisible decrease (insert hook through front loops of next two stitches, yarn over and pull through both, yarn over and pull through remaining 2 loops)
st(s) — stitch(es)
rnd — round
FO — fasten off
All rounds are worked in continuous spiral unless otherwise noted. Do not join rounds with a slip stitch unless the pattern specifically says to do so.
The Pattern: Amigurumi Monkey
Head
The head is worked first because the safety eyes need to be placed while the piece is still partially open.
Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc into ring. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: sc 1, inc repeat around. (18 sts)
Rnd 4: sc 2, inc repeat around. (24 sts)
Rnd 5: sc 3, inc repeat around. (30 sts)
Rnd 6: sc 4, inc repeat around. (36 sts)
Rnd 7: sc 5, inc repeat around. (42 sts)
Rnds 8–14: sc in each st around. (42 sts)
This is the point to attach your safety eyes. Place them between rounds 10 and 11, approximately 8–10 stitches apart. The wider the spacing, the more expressive your monkey will look.
Rnd 15: sc 5, dec repeat around. (36 sts)
Rnd 16: sc 4, dec repeat around. (30 sts)
Rnd 17: sc 3, dec repeat around. (24 sts)
Begin stuffing the head firmly now, continuing to add stuffing as you close.
Rnd 18: sc 2, dec repeat around. (18 sts)
Rnd 19: sc 1, dec repeat around. (12 sts)
Rnd 20: dec around. (6 sts)
FO, leaving a long tail. Use your yarn needle to weave through the remaining 6 stitches and pull tight to close. Weave in the end.
Muzzle
Using your contrasting cream or beige yarn:
Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: sc 1, inc repeat around. (18 sts)
Rnds 4–5: sc in each st around. (18 sts)
FO, leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff the muzzle. Flatten it slightly and sew it onto the front of the head, centered below the eyes. Embroider a small “Y” shape or an inverted triangle in black yarn for the nose and mouth.
Ears (make 2)
Using your main body color:
Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnds 3–4: sc in each st around. (12 sts)
Switch to contrasting color (or continue in main color if you prefer one-color ears):
Rnd 5: sc in each st around. (12 sts)
FO, leaving a long tail. Do not stuff. Flatten the ear and sew it to each side of the head, aligned with the safety eyes. The inner circle of the ear can be embroidered in contrasting yarn or you can simply leave it as is for a cleaner look.
Body
Using your main body color:
Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: sc 1, inc repeat around. (18 sts)
Rnd 4: sc 2, inc repeat around. (24 sts)
Rnd 5: sc 3, inc repeat around. (30 sts)
Rnd 6: sc 4, inc repeat around. (36 sts)
Rnds 7–10: sc in each st around. (36 sts)
Rnd 11: sc 4, dec repeat around. (30 sts)
Rnds 12–14: sc in each st around. (30 sts)
Rnd 15: sc 3, dec repeat around. (24 sts)
Rnds 16–18: sc in each st around. (24 sts)
Rnd 19: sc 2, dec repeat around. (18 sts)
Begin stuffing the body firmly.
Rnd 20: sc 1, dec repeat around. (12 sts)
FO, leaving a long tail for sewing. Finish stuffing and sew the body to the base of the head.
A belly patch in your contrasting cream yarn is optional but gives the monkey wonderful character. Simply crochet an oval (chain 4, work around both sides, increasing at each end for 2–3 rounds) and sew it to the front of the body before assembling.
Arms (make 2)
Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: sc 1, inc repeat around. (18 sts)
Rnds 4–5: sc in each st around. (18 sts)
Rnd 6: sc 1, dec repeat around. (12 sts)
Rnds 7–16: sc in each st around. (12 sts)
Stuff lightly — just enough to give the arm some shape without making it stiff. FO, leaving a long tail. Flatten the open end and sew to the upper sides of the body.
Legs (make 2)
Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: sc 1, inc repeat around. (18 sts)
Rnds 4–6: sc in each st around. (18 sts)
Rnd 7: sc 1, dec repeat around. (12 sts)
Rnds 8–16: sc in each st around. (12 sts)
Stuff firmly. FO, leaving a long tail. Sew to the lower sides of the body so the monkey can sit upright. If you place them slightly forward and angled outward, your monkey will have a natural seated posture.
Tail
The tail is one of the most distinctive features of your amigurumi monkey. You can make it straight or work in a gentle curl by varying your tension slightly and shaping it after assembly.
Rnd 1: MR, 4 sc. (4 sts)
Rnds 2–25: sc in each st around. (4 sts)
FO, leaving a long tail. You do not need to stuff the tail — it will hold its shape naturally. Sew it to the back lower section of the body. To create a curl, weave your yarn needle through the inside of the tail at an angle and pull gently to create a natural curve, then secure with a few stitches.
Assembly and Finishing
Assembly is where your individual pieces come together and your monkey truly comes to life. Take your time with this stage — careful sewing makes a significant difference to the final appearance.
Start by attaching the head to the body. Hold the two pieces together and use your yarn needle and the long tail from the body to sew them securely through corresponding stitches, going all the way around to create a firm join. Stuff any gaps as you sew.
Next, position the arms. Most makers place these between rounds 2 and 4 from the top of the body, on either side. Pin them in place before sewing to check that they look symmetrical. Use your yarn needle to sew through the arm and body several times, creating a strong attachment. Some makers prefer to create a “jointed” arm by sewing through the body and catching both arms in a single stitch — this allows the arms to pivot slightly and creates a charming moveable quality.
Attach the legs in the same careful manner, making sure they sit evenly so the monkey can balance in a seated position.
Finally, attach the muzzle and ears to the head. Use pins or stitch markers to find the perfect placement before committing with your needle. The muzzle should sit slightly below center on the head, and the ears should frame the face at the widest point of the head.
Add any embroidered details — nostrils, smile, eyebrow dots — using a length of black or dark brown yarn and your tapestry needle. These small details make an enormous difference to the expressiveness and personality of your finished monkey.
Weave in all remaining ends thoroughly.
Customization Ideas
One of the great joys of making an amigurumi monkey from scratch is the freedom to customize. Here are some ideas to make your monkey truly one of a kind.
Color variations: While brown and tan are classic, there is no rule that says your monkey must be realistic in color. A pastel lavender monkey with a white muzzle makes a dreamy nursery decoration. A deep teal monkey with a golden belly patch feels bold and modern. Rainbow yarn creates a psychedelic effect that children adore.
Accessories: A tiny crocheted banana (a simple yellow slip stitch chain curved into a crescent shape) is an iconic and quick accessory. You can also make a small hat, a bow, or a little scarf to dress your monkey for any occasion.
Size variations: Using a chunky weight yarn (size 6) and a 5.0 or 5.5 mm hook will produce a much larger monkey — great for a pillow or a toddler’s snuggle toy. Going down to a fine weight (size 1 or 2) with a 1.5 mm hook creates a tiny keychain-sized monkey that is genuinely impressive to behold.
Sleeping or open eyes: Some makers prefer a closed-eye or sleeping expression. You can create this by embroidering two small curved lines with black yarn instead of using safety eyes, giving your monkey a peaceful, restful look.
Tips for Amigurumi Success
If this is one of your earlier amigurumi projects, a few key habits will dramatically improve your results.
Always use a stitch marker at the beginning of every round. It is very easy to lose track of where one round ends and another begins in continuous spiral crochet, and getting off by even one stitch can cause your piece to twist or grow unevenly.
Keep your tension consistent. If you notice your stitches getting looser as you work (which often happens as your hands warm up or relax), take a moment to tighten your grip slightly. A consistent fabric looks cleaner and holds its shape better.
Do not overstuff or understuff. Overstuffing creates a lumpy, stretched appearance where you can see the stuffing through the stitches. Understuffing leaves the piece floppy and formless. Aim for firm but not hard — when you press on the finished piece, it should give slightly and spring back.
Invest in good safety eyes. Cheap safety eyes can have undersized washers that do not lock securely. A quality safety eye, once pressed and locked behind the washer, should be essentially impossible to pull through. Always test the lock before sewing up any piece.
Press and shape your pieces before the final assembly. Lightly dampening your crocheted pieces and reshaping them with your hands — then allowing them to dry in position — is called “blocking.” For amigurumi it is rarely necessary, but it can help round out a slightly irregular head or even out the body shape.
Caring for Your Amigurumi Monkey
If you are making your monkey as a gift, especially for a child, sharing care instructions is a thoughtful touch. Most worsted weight acrylic yarns are machine washable on a gentle cycle in a mesh laundry bag. Stuff with polyester fiberfill rather than cotton batting, since polyester dries much faster and resists clumping after washing
