Sage Petal Lattice Crochet Table Runner — Free Crochet Pattern
There is something quietly transformative about a handmade table runner. It turns an ordinary dining table into something intentional, something that says a real person lives here and cares about the small details. The Sage Petal Lattice Crochet Table Runner is exactly that kind of project — elegant without being fussy, satisfying to make, and stunning when laid out beneath a vase of fresh flowers or a cluster of pillar candles. If you have been searching for a free crochet pattern that works up beautifully in a sage green yarn and features an open, lacy lattice design with soft petal-like motifs, you have landed in exactly the right place.
This pattern is written for intermediate crochet skill levels, meaning you should be comfortable with basic stitches — chain, single crochet, double crochet, slip stitch — and have a little experience reading written crochet patterns. That said, every step is explained clearly, and a patient beginner who is willing to work slowly and check their stitch counts will absolutely be able to complete this runner. The finished piece measures approximately 14 inches wide by 54 inches long, making it ideal for a standard rectangular dining table, a farmhouse bench, a buffet sideboard, or even a long coffee table.
The lattice structure creates beautiful negative space throughout the runner, letting the natural wood grain of your table peek through while the petal motifs add a soft botanical feel that suits every season. In sage green, the whole piece reads as organic and grounding — the kind of color that works equally well with rustic farmhouse décor, minimalist Scandinavian interiors, and warm bohemian tablescapes.
Let us get into everything you need to know before you pick up your hook.
Materials You Will Need
Before beginning any crochet project, gathering your materials first saves time and frustration. Here is what you will need to make the Sage Petal Lattice Table Runner.
Yarn: Approximately 350 to 400 yards of worsted weight yarn (Category 4) in sage green. A cotton or cotton-blend yarn is strongly recommended for table runners because cotton is durable, washable, and has a beautiful drape that shows off lace stitches and open lattice work particularly well. Good choices include Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton, Paintbox Simply DK Cotton, or Paintbox Simply Worsted. If you prefer a softer feel, a cotton-acrylic blend like Lion Brand Comfy Cotton Blend or Paintbox Simply DK will work nicely.
Hook: Size US H-8 / 5.0mm crochet hook. If your tension runs tight, go up to a 5.5mm or 6.0mm hook to achieve the correct gauge.
Notions: Scissors, yarn needle for weaving in ends, measuring tape, and a set of locking stitch markers to mark row beginnings.
Optional: Blocking mat, T-pins, and a spray bottle filled with water. Blocking is not strictly required, but it makes an enormous difference with lacy open-work patterns. Even a light blocking will open up the lattice beautifully and give the petal motifs their full, rounded shape.
Gauge
Gauge matters more for table runners than you might think, because the finished dimensions need to be practical enough to fit your table without hanging too far over the edges or looking too narrow.
Gauge: 14 stitches and 8 rows = 4 inches in double crochet, using a size H-8 / 5.0mm hook and your chosen worsted weight yarn.
Take the time to make a small gauge swatch before starting. Crochet a foundation chain of 20 stitches and work 10 rows of double crochet, then measure. If your swatch is larger than gauge, switch to a smaller hook. If it is smaller, go up a hook size. This quick step will save you from completing the entire runner and discovering it is several inches off the intended dimensions.
Abbreviations and Stitch Guide
This pattern uses standard US crochet terminology.
ch — chain
sl st — slip stitch
sc — single crochet
dc — double crochet
hdc — half double crochet
ch-sp — chain space
sk — skip
rep — repeat
st(s) — stitch(es)
RS — right side
WS — wrong side
Petal Stitch (used in this pattern): Work 5 double crochet stitches into the same stitch or space. This creates a small fan or petal shape that forms the central design element of the runner. When petals are worked in alternating rows within the lattice, they create the botanical, floral rhythm that gives this pattern its name.
Lattice Chain Space: Throughout this pattern, sections of ch-3 or ch-5 spaces are worked between petal clusters and anchor single crochet stitches. These chain arches form the diagonal grid that defines the lattice structure.
Pattern Notes
Read all pattern notes before beginning.
This runner is worked lengthwise in rows from one short end to the other. The foundation chain is long, and the row count is relatively short, which means the runner works up faster than it might appear.
The right side of the work faces you on odd-numbered rows. On even-numbered rows, you are working on the wrong side. The finished runner looks the same on both sides, so flipping is not necessary once complete.
Chain 3 at the beginning of each double crochet row counts as the first double crochet throughout this pattern.
When working into chain spaces from the previous row, insert your hook into the ch-sp itself (the arch), not into individual chain stitches.
Stitch counts are provided at the end of select rows as a checkpoint. If your count is off, it is easier to correct immediately than after several additional rows.
The Pattern
Foundation Chain
Using your sage green yarn and size H-8 hook, chain 193.
This gives you a foundation chain that, once worked, will measure approximately 54 inches in length. If you want a shorter runner — say, 48 inches for a smaller table — chain 169 instead. If you want a longer runner at 60 inches, chain 217. All three lengths use a multiple of 24 plus 1 extra chain, which keeps the lattice repeat intact.
Row 1 (RS)
Dc in the 4th chain from hook (the skipped ch-3 counts as first dc). Dc in each chain across. Turn.
You should have 191 dc across Row 1.
This is a simple foundation row that establishes a clean base for the lattice pattern to build on.
Row 2 (WS)
Ch 1, turn. Sc in first st. Ch 5, sk 5 sts, sc in next st. Repeat from to across to the final stitch. Sc in last st. Turn.
You should have a series of ch-5 arches across Row 2, with sc anchoring each end of every arch.
Row 3 (RS)
Ch 1, turn. Sc in first sc. Into the next ch-5 space, work (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) — this is a V-stitch. Sc in next sc. Repeat from to across. Turn.
Row 3 introduces the V-stitch that forms the skeleton of the lattice. Each V-stitch sits inside a ch-5 arch from Row 2, creating the diagonal lines that will develop into a full lattice as the pattern progresses.
Row 4 (WS)
Ch 5 (counts as dc + ch 2), turn. Sc in the ch-2 space of next V-stitch. Ch 5. Repeat from to across, ending with ch 2, dc in last sc. Turn.
Row 4 is the shift row. The ch-5 arches now sit between the V-stitches rather than within them, creating the alternating rhythm of the lattice.
Row 5 (RS)
Ch 1, turn. Sc in first dc. Into next ch-5 space work (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc). Sc in next sc. Repeat from to across, working final sc into the 3rd chain of the turning ch-5. Turn.
Row 5 is a repeat of Row 3, with the V-stitches now sitting in the arches created by Row 4. At this point, if you look at your work, you should see the beginning of a clear diagonal lattice pattern forming. This is one of those lovely crochet moments when the structure suddenly reveals itself.
Rows 6 through 14
Continue alternating Row 4 and Row 5 until you have completed 7 total sets of the lattice repeat. By the end of Row 14, you will have a well-established open lattice running the full length of your runner.
Row 15 — Petal Accent Row (RS)
Ch 3, turn. Dc in first st. Sc in next sc. Into next ch-2 space of V-stitch, work 5 dc (petal stitch). Sc in next sc. Ch 3. Repeat from to across, ending with 2 dc in last st. Turn.
Row 15 is where the pattern earns its name. The petal stitches burst into the lattice structure, creating those soft, rounded petal shapes that give the whole runner its botanical personality. Work this row slowly to be sure each 5-dc petal is worked entirely into the ch-2 space and not split between stitches.
Row 16 (WS)
Ch 1, turn. Sc in first dc. Ch 5, sc in top of petal (center 3rd dc of the 5-dc group), ch 5, sc in ch-3 space. Repeat from to across, ending with sc in top of turning chain. Turn.
Row 16 reconfigures the lattice arches to work around the petals, pulling them into the overall lattice geometry. The ch-5 arches on either side of each petal will frame the petals beautifully once the work is complete.
Rows 17 through 26
Return to alternating the lattice rows (repeat Rows 4 and 5) for 10 more rows, which creates the second panel of open lattice before the next petal accent row.
Row 27 — Second Petal Accent Row (RS)
Repeat Row 15.
Row 28
Repeat Row 16.
Rows 29 through 34
Work 6 more rows of the basic lattice repeat.
Row 35 — Final Petal Accent Row (RS)
Repeat Row 15 one final time to create a third and final petal accent band across the runner.
Row 36
Repeat Row 16.
Rows 37 through 42
Work 6 more rows of basic lattice to close out the body of the runner symmetrically, mirroring the opening rows.
Row 43 — Closing Foundation Row
Ch 3, turn. Dc in each stitch and into each chain space across the row, filling in the lattice completely to create a solid closing row that mirrors Row 1.
You should end with 191 dc. If you are a few stitches off due to the lattice transitions, this is acceptable — distribute any extra stitches evenly across the row.
Border
A clean, simple border makes all the difference on a table runner. The following border is worked in one round around the entire perimeter of the runner, working across both short ends and both long sides.
Round 1: Join yarn with a sl st to any corner stitch. Ch 1. Work 3 sc into the corner (this creates a neat right angle). Sc evenly across the long edge, working approximately 2 sc for every row end along the sides. Work 3 sc into each corner. Sc across the opposite long edge. Sl st to join the round. Do not fasten off.
Round 2: Ch 1. Sc in each st around, working 3 sc into each corner sc (the center sc of the 3-sc corner group from Round 1). Sl st to join.
Round 3: Sl st to corner. Ch 1. Work a picot border as follows: Sc in first st, ch 3, sl st in first chain of the ch-3 just made (this is your picot), sc in next 3 sts. Repeat from to around, working a picot at each corner. Sl st to join. Fasten off and weave in end.
The picot border adds delicate, scalloped detail to the edges without overpowering the lattice and petal work of the body. It echoes the organic, botanical feel of the petal stitches beautifully.
Finishing
Weave in all yarn ends securely using your yarn needle, working the tail in multiple directions through the backs of nearby stitches to prevent any unraveling during washing.
Once all ends are woven in, wet block the runner if possible. Soak it in cool water for about 15 minutes, then gently press out the excess water in a clean towel without wringing. Lay the runner flat on a blocking mat, pin it to the correct dimensions — 14 inches wide and 54 inches long — and allow it to dry completely. This step opens the lattice, flattens any uneven tension, and gives the petal motifs a full, rounded appearance. The difference between an unblocked and blocked version of this runner is genuinely remarkable.
Care Instructions
Because table runners live on surfaces where they encounter spills, candle wax drips, and general use, washability is important. If you made your runner with 100% cotton yarn, it is machine washable on a gentle cycle in cool water. Lay flat to dry. Avoid putting cotton crochet items in a high-heat dryer, which can cause shrinkage.
If you used a cotton-acrylic blend, the same guidelines apply — cool water, gentle cycle, flat to dry.
Styling Ideas for Your Sage Petal Lattice Runner
One of the most enjoyable parts of finishing a handmade piece is styling it in your home. Here are some ideas to get you started.
For a natural, organic tablescape, pair the sage runner with linen napkins in cream or oatmeal tones, wooden candlestick holders, and a simple ceramic vase filled with eucalyptus or dried pampas grass. The sage color will feel completely at home in this setting.
For a seasonal autumn table, layer the sage runner over a natural linen tablecloth and add terracotta candles, small pumpkins or gourds, and dark brown or amber glassware. The sage green grounds the warmth of the autumn palette beautifully.
For a fresh spring brunch table, pair the runner with white dishes, pink ranunculus in a glass vase, and pastel napkins. The openwork lattice lets the table surface show through, which keeps the overall look light and airy even with multiple styling elements on top.
For a minimalist modern look, use the runner alone on a dark walnut dining table with simple white taper candles and nothing else. The contrast between the delicate sage lace and the deep wood is striking.
Customization Options
This pattern is easy to adapt. To change the width of the runner, add or subtract multiples of 24 stitches to the foundation chain, keeping in mind that every 24-stitch repeat adds or removes approximately 7 inches of width at this gauge.
To change the color, this pattern works beautifully in dusty rose, cream, terracotta, dusty blue, or soft white. A natural ecru cotton makes the pattern look heirloom and vintage. A deep forest green gives it a more dramatic, jewel-toned feel for the winter holiday season.
For a more textured version, try working the body of the runner in a linen-look cotton yarn, which adds a subtle texture that gives the open lattice additional visual interest.
A Note on Working with Cotton Yarn
If this is your first time working with cotton yarn, a few things are worth knowing. Cotton has no stretch, unlike acrylic or wool, which means your tension may feel different at first and your hands may tire a little more quickly. Take breaks if your hands feel fatigued, and try to relax your grip on the hook. Cotton also shows stitch definition beautifully, which means any inconsistencies in tension are more visible — but it also means the beautiful geometry of this lattice pattern will really pop.
Cotton yarn softens with every wash, so if your finished runner feels a little stiff at first, know that it will become softer and more draped after a few wash cycles.
