Free Easy Crochet Monstera Pattern (Perfect for Coasters!)
If you’ve been scrolling through home décor inspiration lately, chances are you’ve seen the monstera leaf everywhere — on throw pillows, wall art, tote bags, and ceramic mugs. This tropical plant silhouette has become one of the most beloved design motifs of the past several years, and it shows absolutely no signs of slowing down. So today we’re bringing that iconic split-leaf shape into the crochet world with a free, beginner-friendly monstera pattern that works up beautifully as a coaster — or a set of them.
Whether you’re completely new to crochet or you’ve been hooking for years and want a satisfying afternoon project, this pattern is for you. The finished coasters are thick enough to protect your surfaces, textured enough to grip a cup, and gorgeous enough to leave out on the coffee table even when you’re not using them. They also make wonderful handmade gifts, especially when you stitch up a set of four and tuck them into a little gift bag. Let’s dive in.
Why Monstera Leaf Coasters?
Before we get to the pattern itself, let’s talk about why this particular shape works so well as a coaster. The monstera leaf — technically from the Monstera deliciosa plant, often called the Swiss cheese plant — has a bold, recognizable silhouette with those signature fenestrations, the oval cutouts along the spine of the leaf. When you work this shape in crochet, those cutouts become a built-in design feature that makes the finished piece look intricate and deliberate without requiring complicated stitches.
Coasters are one of the most practical beginner crochet projects out there. They’re small, so they work up quickly — most people can finish one in an evening. Because they’re flat and worked in the round or in rows, they’re an excellent opportunity to practice shaping. And because a coaster needs to be somewhat firm to function, cotton yarn is the perfect fiber choice, giving you a great excuse to raid your stash or pick up a skein of your favorite cotton at the craft store.
These monstera coasters are also genuinely useful in a way that not every decorative crochet project manages to be. They sit flat, they absorb condensation, and they’re machine washable (depending on your yarn choice), which means they’re not just pretty — they actually do their job.
Materials You’ll Need
One of the things that makes this pattern so approachable is how minimal the supply list is. Here’s everything you need to get started.
Yarn: Worsted weight cotton yarn in at least one shade of green. A medium sage or deep forest green looks stunning, but this is entirely up to you. You’ll need roughly 50–60 yards per coaster, which means a single 100-yard skein will give you almost two coasters. If you want to add a contrasting color for an edging round, grab a small amount of cream, mustard yellow, or even terracotta — any accent color you love.
Hook: A 4.0 mm or 4.5 mm crochet hook. Because we’re going for a firm, dense fabric to make the coaster functional, you’ll want to work a little tighter than the yarn label might suggest. If your coaster is turning out too floppy, try dropping down half a size on your hook.
Scissors and a tapestry needle for weaving in your ends.
Stitch markers (optional but helpful) to mark the beginning of rounds.
Blocking mat and pins (optional) if you want a crisp, professional finish. Blocking is not required, but it really does make a difference in how cleanly the leaf shape lays flat.
Gauge and Sizing
Gauge: Approximately 16 stitches and 18 rows = 4 inches in single crochet with worsted weight cotton and a 4.0 mm hook.
Finished size: Each coaster measures approximately 4.5 inches wide and 5.5 inches tall, which is a great size for standard mugs, glasses, and even most coffee cups. If you want larger coasters for big tumblers or mason jars, you can work one additional increase round and the size will scale up nicely.
Don’t stress too much about gauge for a coaster project. Because there’s no fitting involved, a slight variation in gauge will just mean your coasters are slightly larger or smaller than the stated measurements, and that is perfectly fine.
Abbreviations Used in This Pattern
All abbreviations follow standard US crochet terminology.
ch — chain
sl st — slip stitch
sc — single crochet
hdc — half double crochet
dc — double crochet
st(s) — stitch(es)
sp — space
blo — back loop only
inc — increase (2 sc in the same stitch)
sk — skip
MR — magic ring
A Note on Working This Pattern
This pattern is worked in a combination of rows and rounds. We start with a foundation chain at the base of the leaf stem, then build the body of the leaf in a roughly oval shape before adding the characteristic lobed edges that give the monstera its distinctive look. The fenestrations — those iconic oval cutouts — are created using chain spaces and skipped stitches, which is a technique any crocheter who has made granny squares or openwork borders will recognize immediately.
If you are brand new to crochet, I highly recommend practicing the magic ring, single crochet, and increasing stitches before you begin. There are wonderful video tutorials online that can walk you through those basics, and once you’re comfortable with them, this pattern will feel very manageable.
Read through the entire pattern once before you start. It’s always a good habit, and it will help you visualize the construction so nothing catches you off guard mid-project.
Free Easy Crochet Monstera Coaster Pattern
Step One: The Stem
Begin by creating a simple chain foundation that forms the stem of your monstera leaf.
Foundation: Ch 6. Starting in the second chain from the hook, work 1 sc in each of the next 4 chains, then 3 sc in the last chain to create the base of the leaf. Do not turn. You will now work along the other side of the foundation chain. Work 1 sc in each of the next 4 chains. You should have 11 stitches total.
Ch 1 and turn.
Row 1: Sc across all 11 stitches. Ch 1, turn. (11 sts)
Row 2: Inc in first st, sc across to last st, inc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (13 sts)
Row 3: Sc across. Ch 1, turn. (13 sts)
Row 4: Inc in first st, sc across to last st, inc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (15 sts)
Row 5: Sc across. Ch 1, turn. (15 sts)
Row 6: Inc in first st, sc across to last st, inc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (17 sts)
Row 7: Sc across. Ch 1, turn. (17 sts)
Row 8: Inc in first st, sc across to last st, inc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (19 sts)
Row 9: Sc across. Do not ch or turn. (19 sts)
At the end of Row 9, you’ll begin working around the perimeter of the leaf body.
Step Two: Building the Leaf Perimeter
You’re now going to join your working yarn and begin shaping the lobed, irregular edges that make a monstera look like a monstera rather than a plain oval. This is the most creative part of the pattern and where the magic really happens.
Join with a sl st to the corner of your last row to begin working in the round around the leaf shape.
Round 1 (right lobe): Ch 8, sl st back into the 4th st from the hook to create a small picot loop. This forms the tip of the first right-side lobe. Continue sc-ing down the side of your leaf body, working approximately 1 sc for every row. Work about 4 sc down the side, then ch 8, sl st into the 4th ch from hook again to form the second right-side lobe. Work 4 more sc down the side until you reach the base of the stem.
Round 1 (base): Work 3 sc across the base of the stem for stability.
Round 1 (left lobe): Mirror the right side. Work 4 sc up the left side, then ch 8 and sl st into the 4th ch from hook to form the first left-side lobe. Work 4 sc, then ch 8 and sl st back into the 4th ch to form the second left-side lobe. Continue sc-ing to the top of the leaf.
Round 1 (leaf tip): At the top of the leaf, ch 10, sl st into the 4th ch from hook to form the pointed leaf tip. Work back across the top with sc stitches.
Join with sl st to the beginning of the round.
Step Three: The Fenestrations (Leaf Cutouts)
This is the detail that will make people stop and say “Oh, is that a monstera? That’s incredible.” The fenestrations are created in the interior of the leaf using chain loops.
Fasten off your main working yarn and reattach it in the center of the leaf body (approximately 3–4 rows up from the base, in the middle of the leaf width).
Fenestration 1: Ch 12, sl st back into the stitch you started from to form a small oval loop. The loop should be roughly 1 inch wide and 0.5 inches tall. Secure with 2–3 additional sl sts to hold the shape firmly.
Fenestration 2: Skip 2–3 stitches along the center of the leaf (working slightly higher and to the side), then ch 14, sl st back into the beginning of the chain. Again, secure the loop with a couple of sl sts.
Fasten off and weave in all ends on the back of the coaster.
Step Four: The Edging Round
This step is optional but adds a beautiful polished look to the finished coaster. It also helps the piece lay flat and gives the edges a defined, crisp feel.
Reattach your yarn (or your contrasting color if you’re using one) anywhere along the outer edge of the coaster.
Edging Round: Work 1 sc into every stitch and space around the entire perimeter of the coaster, including around the outside of each lobe. At each lobe tip, work 3 sc into the same stitch to create a clean point. At any inside corners where two lobes meet the body, work a sl st instead of a sc to draw the corner inward and keep it tidy.
When you reach the base of the stem, work 3 sc across the flat bottom edge.
Join with sl st to the first sc. Fasten off and weave in all remaining ends.
Finishing Touches
Once your monstera coaster is complete, give it a gentle hand wash in cool water with a small amount of mild dish soap or wool wash. Press it flat between two clean towels and let it air dry completely. If you’d like extra crispness, lightly spritz with water and pin it to a blocking mat in the leaf shape, stretching the lobes out gently before letting it dry overnight.
The difference blocking makes is subtle but real — it gives the leaf a flatter, more professional finish and helps those lobes hold their shape beautifully.
Tips for Making a Perfect Set of Four
If you’re making a matching set of coasters as a gift or for your own home, here are a few tips to keep things consistent across all four pieces.
Use yarn from the same dye lot whenever possible. Cotton yarn in particular can vary slightly between lots, and while the difference might not be obvious looking at a single skein, placing two coasters side by side can sometimes reveal slight tonal differences.
Count your stitches at the end of every row, especially during the increase section. It’s much easier to catch a missed increase in Row 3 than to discover the problem when your fourth coaster is noticeably narrower than the first three.
Keep your tension as consistent as you can. If you tend to crochet more tightly when you’re tired or distracted, try to work all four coasters in similar conditions — same time of day, same level of focus, same Netflix background noise if that’s your thing.
Write down any small adjustments you make to the pattern so you can replicate them. If you decided to work an extra increase round, or if you moved the fenestrations slightly, jot that down before you forget.
Yarn Alternatives and Color Ideas
While cotton is the practical first choice for coasters, you have more options than you might think. A cotton-acrylic blend gives you softness along with the durability and washability of acrylic, and it tends to be a bit more forgiving in terms of tension. Pure acrylic worsted weight will also work, especially if the coasters are more for decoration than heavy daily use.
For color, the obvious and beautiful choice is green — and there are so many greens to choose from. A warm medium green evokes a healthy, sun-drenched monstera. A muted sage or dusty green reads as more modern and bohemian. Deep emerald is dramatic and elegant. Variegated green-and-yellow yarn can give a lovely dappled, light-through-leaves effect.
But don’t feel constrained by realism. Terracotta monstera coasters look stunning on a neutral table. A dusty pink or mauve version reads as whimsical and romantic. If you’re making these as a gift for someone with a bold maximalist aesthetic, a set in four different jewel tones — deep teal, rich burgundy, burnt orange, and mustard yellow — would be absolutely gorgeous.
Other Ways to Use This Pattern
A coaster is just the beginning. Once you’ve mastered this monstera shape, the same basic construction scales in really interesting directions.
Scale it up significantly — working with bulky yarn and a 6 mm hook — and you’ve got a trivet for hot pots and pans. Scale it up even further and you have a placemat. Work two together and seam around the edges with right sides facing out to make a simple monstera-shaped pillow cover, stuffed with polyfill for a quirky, tropical decorative pillow.
The monstera shape also makes lovely gift tags — worked in fingering weight cotton with a 2.5 mm hook, they come out tiny and detailed, and you can attach them to packages with a length of twine through the stem.
If you enjoy appliqué, a small monstera motif worked in lightweight yarn can be stitched onto tote bags, denim jackets, the front pocket of a sweater, or the corner of a market bag for a sweet tropical accent.
Share Your Makes!
If you stitch up a set of these monstera coasters, I would absolutely love to see them. The number of creative takes people come up with — the unexpected color choices, the clever yarn substitutions, the beautiful blocking jobs — is genuinely one of the most joyful parts of sharing a free pattern.
Tag your photos on Instagram or Pinterest so the crochet community can find them. Patterns live and grow through the projects people make, and every single version someone creates adds something to the collective inspiration.
If you have questions about any step in the pattern, drop them in the comments below. I do my best to respond to every question, and often someone else in the community will jump in with a helpful answer before I even get the chance.
Happy hooking, and may your monstera coasters be as lush and lovely as the real thing.
