Free Crochet Placemat Pattern – Part 1 (Rounds 1–10)

If you have been looking for a beginner-friendly crochet placemat pattern that is both beautiful and practical, you have landed in exactly the right place. This is Part 1 of a complete free crochet placemat pattern series, and today we are going to walk through Rounds 1 through 10 together. By the end of this post, you will have a solid foundation for a stunning placemat that will look gorgeous on any table — whether you are dressing up your everyday dining setup or creating handmade gifts for people you love.

Grab your hook, pull out your favorite cotton yarn, and let’s get started.

Why Crochet Your Own Placemats?

Before we dive into the pattern itself, let’s talk about why crocheted placemats are such a wonderful project to take on. Store-bought placemats are fine, but there is something deeply satisfying about sitting down at a table set with items you made by hand. Crocheted placemats are durable, washable, and endlessly customizable. You get to choose your own colors, your own yarn weight, and you can adjust the size to fit any table setting you have in mind.

They also happen to be one of the most practical beginner projects out there. Unlike amigurumi or garments, you do not have to worry much about sizing or shaping. A placemat is flat, it works up relatively quickly, and it gives you a great opportunity to practice consistent tension and stitch counts — two skills that will serve you for the rest of your crochet life.

This particular pattern works up in a round, creating a circular placemat with a classic, timeless look. Circular placemats pair beautifully with round plates, and they have a certain elegance that rectangular versions sometimes lack. They are also easier to store and stack.

What You Will Need

Here is a quick supply list before we begin. Having everything within reach before you start will make the process much smoother.

Yarn: 100% cotton yarn in a worsted weight (size 4) is highly recommended for placemats. Cotton holds its shape well, is heat resistant, and can be thrown in the washing machine without much fuss. You will need approximately 150–200 yards for a finished placemat that measures around 14–15 inches in diameter. Feel free to use two contrasting colors for a striped effect, or keep it all one color for a clean, minimalist look.

Hook: A 5.0 mm (size H/8) crochet hook works beautifully with worsted weight cotton. If you tend to crochet tightly, you might want to go up to a 5.5 mm hook to keep things relaxed and even.

Scissors and a tapestry needle: You will need these for finishing. A tapestry needle with a blunt tip is easiest for weaving in your ends through cotton yarn.

Stitch markers: Optional, but very helpful for keeping track of the beginning of each round.

Blocking mat and pins: Also optional, but a light block after finishing will make your placemat lie perfectly flat and look truly professional.

Abbreviations and Stitches Used

This pattern uses standard US crochet terminology. Here is a quick reference for the stitches you will encounter in Rounds 1 through 10.

ch – chain
sl st – slip stitch
sc – single crochet
hdc – half double crochet
dc – double crochet
MR – magic ring (also called magic circle)
st – stitch
sp – space
rep – repeat
beg – beginning

If you are not yet comfortable with the magic ring, do not worry. You can substitute it with a chain-4 joined into a ring with a slip stitch. The magic ring simply gives you a tighter, cleaner center, which is especially nice for a placemat where the center is very visible, but both methods work.

Pattern Notes

Read through the full pattern notes before beginning. These small details will make your work much easier as you go.

This pattern is worked in continuous rounds. You will not join at the end of each round with a slip stitch unless specifically instructed. Using a stitch marker at the beginning of each round is strongly recommended so you always know where one round ends and the next begins.

The stitch count at the end of each round is provided in parentheses so you can check your work as you go. If your count is off, it is almost always easier to find and fix an error right away rather than after several more rounds.

Gauge is approximately 14 stitches and 16 rows = 4 inches in single crochet with worsted weight cotton and a 5.0 mm hook. For a placemat, gauge does not need to be precise, but staying close to it will give you a finished piece in the expected size range.

Let’s Begin the Pattern

Setting Up: The Magic Ring

Start by making your magic ring. If you are using the chain-4 substitute, chain 4 and join with a slip stitch to form a ring, then proceed to Round 1.

Round 1

Chain 3 (this counts as your first double crochet throughout), then work 11 more double crochets into the magic ring. Pull the tail of the magic ring to close the center hole. Join with a slip stitch to the top of the beginning chain-3.

(12 dc)

This first round establishes the center of your placemat. Pull the magic ring tail firmly but not aggressively — you want it snug but not puckered. If you peek at the back of your work and see a small raised bump at the center, that is perfectly normal and will become less noticeable as the placemat grows.

Round 2

Chain 3 (counts as dc), work 1 dc in the same stitch. Work 2 dc in each stitch around. Join with a slip stitch to the top of the beginning chain-3.

(24 dc)

This round doubles your stitch count by placing two double crochets into every single stitch from the previous round. This is the standard increase method for growing a flat circle, and you will notice your work starting to spread out and lie flat. If it is curling up at the edges, your tension may be a bit tight — try loosening up slightly as you go, or consider moving to a larger hook size.

Round 3

Chain 3 (counts as dc), work 1 dc in the next stitch. Work 2 dc in the next stitch, 1 dc in the next stitch. Repeat from to around. Join with a slip stitch to the top of the beginning chain-3.

(36 dc)

You are now working an increase pattern of one increase every two stitches. This steady, even increase is what keeps your circle lying flat rather than curling or ruffling.

Round 4

Chain 3 (counts as dc), work 1 dc in each of the next 2 stitches. Work 2 dc in the next stitch, 1 dc in each of the next 2 stitches. Repeat from to around. Join with a slip stitch to the top of the beginning chain-3.

(48 dc)

By Round 4, your piece should be lying completely flat and should measure roughly 3.5 to 4 inches across. If it is starting to ruffle or wave, you have too many stitches or your tension is very loose — try going down a hook size. If it is cupping upward, you need more increases or a larger hook.

Round 5

Chain 1 (does not count as a stitch), work 1 sc in each stitch around. Join with a slip stitch to the first sc.

(48 sc)

This is a transition round. Switching to single crochet for one round creates a subtle ridge in your work, which adds visual texture and helps define the layers of your placemat pattern. The stitch count stays the same — no increases in this round. Take a moment to check your stitch count carefully here before moving on, as this is a good checkpoint.

Round 6

Chain 3 (counts as dc), work 1 dc in each of the next 3 stitches. Work 2 dc in the next stitch, 1 dc in each of the next 3 stitches. Repeat from to around. Join with a slip stitch to the top of the beginning chain-3.

(60 dc)

You are back to double crochets and continuing the even increase pattern. Notice how each round adds one more stitch between increases. This formula — increasing by the round number — is the mathematical secret behind a flat crochet circle.

Round 7

Chain 3 (counts as dc), work 1 dc in each of the next 4 stitches. Work 2 dc in the next stitch, 1 dc in each of the next 4 stitches. Repeat from to around. Join with a slip stitch to the top of the beginning chain-3.

(72 dc)

Your placemat should now be approximately 6 to 7 inches across. It is starting to look like a real placemat! This is a great time to step back and admire your work. The center motif has a clean, geometric beauty to it that will be partially visible under a plate and fully visible when the placemat is used as a decorative piece.

Round 8

Chain 1 (does not count as a stitch), work 1 hdc in each stitch around. Join with a slip stitch to the first hdc.

(72 hdc)

Another transition round, this time using half double crochet. The half double crochet sits between the height of a single and a double crochet, and it creates a slightly different texture than the rounds before it. This round adds visual interest and helps prevent the piece from feeling too uniform. Again, no increases here — you are maintaining the stitch count.

Round 9

Chain 3 (counts as dc), work 1 dc in each of the next 5 stitches. Work 2 dc in the next stitch, 1 dc in each of the next 5 stitches. Repeat from to around. Join with a slip stitch to the top of the beginning chain-3.

(84 dc)

You are continuing to grow the diameter of your placemat with beautiful consistency. At this point your piece should be lying completely flat on a table without any curling or ruffling. If you notice any waviness, do not panic — blocking will often resolve very minor issues, and cotton responds exceptionally well to a light wet block.

Round 10

Chain 3 (counts as dc), work 1 dc in each of the next 6 stitches. Work 2 dc in the next stitch, 1 dc in each of the next 6 stitches. Repeat from to around. Join with a slip stitch to the top of the beginning chain-3.

(96 dc)

Congratulations — you have completed Round 10! Your placemat base should now measure approximately 9 to 10 inches in diameter. You are well on your way to a finished piece. Fasten off here if you are pausing until Part 2, and weave in your ends temporarily using your tapestry needle. You can always pull them back out if needed, but securing them prevents your work from unraveling while it sits.

How Your Work Should Look After Round 10

After completing these first ten rounds, your placemat should be a perfect flat circle roughly 9 to 10 inches across. The texture should have a beautiful layered quality from the alternating double crochet and transition rounds, and the center should be tight and clean with no visible hole.

If you look closely, you will notice a subtle ridge pattern radiating outward from the center — this is created by the transition rounds of single and half double crochet, and it is entirely intentional. It gives the finished placemat a more complex, handcrafted appearance that looks far more intricate than the simple stitch work involved.

If your placemat is slightly smaller or larger than 9 to 10 inches, that is completely fine. Yarn weight, hook size, and personal tension all play a role in the final dimensions. The important thing is that it lies flat.

Tips for Success

Keep your tension even. Consistent tension is the single most important factor in how your placemat will look. If you notice your tension getting tighter as you tire, take a break and come back fresh.

Count your stitches at the end of every round. This takes only a moment and saves enormous frustration. Catching an error in Round 6 is much easier than catching it in Round 10.

Don’t skip the transition rounds. The single crochet and half double crochet rounds might seem like they are slowing your progress, but they are a key part of the texture and visual rhythm of this pattern. Trust the process.

Use a contrasting color for transition rounds. One of the most popular ways to customize this pattern is to switch to a contrasting color for Rounds 5 and 8. Even a single round in a pop of color completely transforms the look of the finished piece.

Block your work. Cotton yarn responds beautifully to wet blocking. Once your placemat is finished, soak it in cool water, gently squeeze out the excess (do not wring), and pin it to your blocking mat in a perfect circle. Let it dry completely. The difference in how flat and polished it looks will amaze you.

Coming Up in Part 2

In Part 2 of this free crochet placemat pattern, we will be working Rounds 11 through 20, which will bring your placemat to its full diameter and introduce a decorative border section. We will also talk through color change options and how to finish and wash your completed placemat for long-lasting use.

If you are loving this pattern so far, save this post so you can find it again easily, and check back for Part 2. Feel free to share photos of your progress in the comments below — seeing what colors and yarns you are all working with is one of the best parts of sharing a pattern like this.

Happy crocheting, and I will see you in Part 2!