Free Ballerina Dishcloth or Afghan Square Knitting Pattern — Daisy and Storm
There is something quietly magical about a knitting pattern that manages to be both delicate and bold at the same time. The Ballerina Dishcloth pattern in the Daisy and Storm colorway does exactly that. Whether you are a seasoned knitter who has worked through hundreds of squares or someone just beginning to explore the world of textured knitting, this pattern has a way of drawing you in and keeping your needles moving until the very last stitch. Today I am sharing the complete free pattern for this beautiful piece, along with some helpful tips, yarn recommendations, and inspiration for how to use it in your home or as part of a larger afghan project.
What Is the Ballerina Pattern?
The Ballerina pattern is a classic motif in knitting that blends gentle curves with structured geometry. It evokes the poise and elegance of a dancer mid-movement — all soft lines and graceful negative space working together in rhythm. When translated into a dishcloth or afghan square, the design creates a beautiful textured tile that looks far more complicated than it actually is to knit. That is one of the great joys of this pattern: it looks impressive but is entirely achievable by a knitter who has mastered basic knit and purl stitches.
The Daisy and Storm colorway is a personal favorite for this particular design. Daisy — a soft, warm yellow with just a hint of cream — brings to mind wildflower meadows and sunny mornings. Storm — a deep, moody blue-grey that shifts depending on the light — provides the kind of contrast that makes every stitch definition pop. Together, these two colors create something with genuine visual drama. You can use them in a single colorway project like a lap blanket or dishcloth set, or you can incorporate the Ballerina square into a larger sampler afghan where different squares are worked in a variety of palettes.
Materials You Will Need
Before you cast on, gather everything so your knitting session can flow without interruption. Here is what you will need for one square:
For a Dishcloth:
Worsted weight cotton yarn in two colors — approximately 40 grams in your main color (Daisy) and 20 grams in your contrast color (Storm). Cotton is the ideal choice for dishcloths because it is absorbent, durable, and holds up well to repeated washing. Look for a smooth, tightly plied cotton so that stitch definition comes through clearly.
For an Afghan Square:
Worsted weight wool or wool blend yarn in two colors — approximately 45 grams in your main color and 25 grams in your contrast color. Wool has excellent elasticity and drape, which gives the finished square a beautiful, lofty quality when blocked. For a cohesive afghan, choose a yarn you love working with at scale, since you will likely be making many of these.
Needles:
US size 7 (4.5mm) straight or circular needles. If you tend to knit tightly, size up to a US 8. If your swatches consistently run large and loose, try a US 6.
Other Supplies:
A tapestry needle for weaving in ends, scissors, stitch markers if desired, and a blocking mat and pins if you plan to wet block your finished square.
Gauge:
Approximately 18 stitches and 24 rows to 4 inches in stockinette stitch. For a dishcloth or afghan square, gauge does not need to be precise, but do check that your finished square measures approximately 8 inches by 8 inches after blocking to keep things consistent if you are working these as part of a set.
A Note on Blocking
Blocking is the step that transforms a slightly uneven knitted square into something that looks professionally made. For cotton dishcloths, a good wet block works beautifully — soak the finished piece in cool water for about ten minutes, squeeze gently without wringing, then lay it flat on a blocking mat, pin it to the correct dimensions, and allow it to dry completely. For wool afghan squares, the same process applies, though wool may take a full day or more to dry depending on the thickness of the yarn and the humidity in your space. The effort is absolutely worth it. Blocked knitting looks completely different from unblocked knitting, and you will immediately see the stitch definition in the Ballerina pattern come to life.
Understanding the Pattern Construction
The Ballerina square is worked flat, back and forth in rows, which makes it accessible for any level of knitter. It uses a combination of knit and purl stitches to create the textured motif — no cables, no complex colorwork, no yarn-overs required (unless you are working a lace version, which is an optional adaptation I will mention later). The two-color element is introduced through simple intarsia or stranded knitting depending on how large the color sections are in a given row.
If you have not worked with two colors before, do not be intimidated. The Daisy and Storm colorway is forgiving because the contrast is strong enough that any minor tension inconsistencies between the colors are less noticeable than they would be in a subtler palette. Just remember to twist your yarns when you change colors to avoid holes, and keep the tension of the carried yarn slightly relaxed to prevent puckering.
The pattern is written row by row and is fully charted, so you can work from whichever format suits your style. A written pattern is helpful for those who like to read as they knit, while a chart gives you a visual map of the finished design and can make it easier to see how the motif is developing as you go.
The Free Pattern
Abbreviations:
CO = cast on, K = knit, P = purl, RS = right side, WS = wrong side, MC = main color (Daisy), CC = contrast color (Storm), sl = slip stitch, wyif = with yarn in front, wyib = with yarn in back
Cast On:
Using MC, CO 40 stitches.
Border Setup (worked in MC):
Row 1 (RS): K across.
Row 2 (WS): K3, P to last 3 sts, K3.
Rows 3–4: Repeat rows 1–2.
These four rows establish the garter border at the top edge. You will work the same border at the bottom once the body is complete.
Body Rows:
The body of the square is 80 rows, establishing the Ballerina motif. Here is how the pattern reads across the key sequence. For ease of clarity, I am giving you the written instructions for the central motif section. The complete row-by-row repeat runs as follows, with the Ballerina figure centered on the square:
Row 5 (RS): K3 (border), K16 MC, join CC and K8 CC, K16 MC, K3 (border).
Row 6 (WS): K3, P16 MC, P8 CC, P16 MC, K3.
Row 7 (RS): K3, K14 MC, K12 CC, K14 MC, K3.
Row 8 (WS): K3, P14 MC, P12 CC, P14 MC, K3.
Row 9 (RS): K3, K12 MC, K16 CC, K12 MC, K3.
Row 10 (WS): K3, P12 MC, P16 CC, P12 MC, K3.
Continue expanding the CC section by 2 stitches on each side for every RS row until you reach the center panel of 24 CC stitches, then mirror the decrease. Within the CC section, work the Ballerina figure as a knit-and-purl texture pattern as described below.
Ballerina Figure Texture (worked over the CC stitches on right side rows):
The figure is worked in relief using a simple knit-on-RS/purl-on-WS for the body of the dancer and purl-on-RS/knit-on-WS for the negative space around her. The silhouette spans approximately 20 rows at the center of the square. Work 4 rows plain stockinette in CC to set the stage, then work the figure motif as follows over 20 rows:
Rows 1–2 of figure (RS/WS): Work 8 CC, then over center 8 sts: K1, P6, K1, then K8 CC.
Rows 3–4: K7 CC, K2, P4, K2, K7 CC.
Rows 5–6: K6 CC, K3, P2, K3, K6 CC.
Rows 7–8 (waist): K5 CC, P1, K8, P1, K5 CC — this slight pinch creates the waist of the figure.
Rows 9–10 (skirt begins): K4 CC, P1, K10, P1, K4 CC.
Rows 11–12: K3 CC, P1, K12, P1, K3 CC.
Rows 13–14: K4 CC, P1, K10, P1, K4 CC — the skirt narrows at the hem.
Rows 15–16: K5 CC, P1, K8, P1, K5 CC.
Rows 17–18 (legs): K8 CC, P8 CC, K8 CC — use purl stitches to suggest the legs and feet.
Rows 19–20: K8 CC, P2, K4, P2, K8 CC.
Work 4 more rows plain stockinette in CC to close out the figure, then begin decreasing the CC section back down symmetrically as you did when expanding it.
Closing Border:
Once all 80 body rows are complete, work 4 rows in MC matching the setup border:
Row 81 (RS): K across.
Row 82 (WS): K3, P to last 3 sts, K3.
Rows 83–84: Repeat rows 81–82.
Bind off all 40 stitches loosely in K on the RS. Break yarn and weave in all ends.
Tips for Success
One thing that makes a real difference in the finished appearance of this square is consistent tension. If you are new to working with two colors, practice the color change on a small swatch before beginning the actual project. When you switch from MC to CC, always pick up the new color from underneath the old color. This simple habit prevents tangling and keeps your fabric smooth on the wrong side.
Counting your stitches at the end of every wrong side row is also a great habit. It takes only a few seconds and saves you from discovering a dropped stitch or accidental increase twenty rows later. Place a stitch marker at the center of the row if it helps you keep your place within the motif.
If you find yourself wanting to work this square entirely in one color for a simpler project, it is absolutely lovely as a monochromatic piece. A single skein of a heathered grey or deep teal will still show off the Ballerina figure beautifully because the texture is doing all the visual work. Daisy and Storm just happens to be an especially striking way to present the design.
Using This Square in an Afghan
One of the most rewarding ways to use the Ballerina square is as part of a larger sampler or theme afghan. If you are planning a ballet-inspired throw, imagine blocks of this design alternating with simpler garter or seed stitch squares in coordinating colors. A lap blanket made of 12 squares — four across and three down — would measure approximately 32 inches by 24 inches, which is a lovely size for draping over your legs on the sofa or giving as a gift.
For a full-sized throw, 35 to 40 squares arranged in a seven-by-five or eight-by-five layout would measure close to 56 to 64 inches in width and about 40 inches in length. That is a satisfying project to work through over several months, especially if you are knitting a square or two each week.
When seaming squares together, the mattress stitch gives the cleanest join. Work with the right sides facing you, and match your color changes carefully at the seam lines so the design flows naturally from one square to the next. If you are mixing the Ballerina square with other designs in the same project, keeping the border stitches consistent across all squares — all using the same garter stitch border in the same main color — will tie the whole piece together visually.
Caring for Your Finished Piece
Cotton dishcloths can go straight into the washing machine on a gentle or normal cycle in cold or warm water. Tumble dry on low, or lay flat to dry if you want to preserve the shape perfectly. Avoid high heat, which can shrink cotton significantly.
Wool or wool-blend afghan squares should be hand washed or machine washed on a wool/delicate cycle with a gentle detergent. Lay flat to dry away from direct sunlight or heat. Wool is more forgiving than people sometimes assume, and a well-blocked wool square will hold its shape through many washes over many years.
Why Free Patterns Matter to the Knitting Community
There is a wonderful generosity at the heart of the knitting world. Designers, teachers, and hobbyists share their work freely all the time, knowing that a pattern given away today often brings someone new into the craft tomorrow. A free pattern like this one is an invitation. It says: come try this, see if you love it, discover what you are capable of creating with two sticks and some string.
The Ballerina pattern in Daisy and Storm is one of those designs that tends to surprise people. They start it thinking it will be a small, simple project and find themselves at the bind-off row wishing they could cast on immediately and do it again in a different colorway. That feeling — that eagerness to repeat a pattern and explore its variations — is one of the best signs that a design has really worked.
If you make this square or dishcloth, please share it. Post a photo, tag your project online, leave a comment with the yarn you used and what you thought of the construction. The community that grows up around patterns like this one is part of what makes knitting such a rich and continuing tradition.
Happy knitting.
