Easy Crochet Oval Placemat | Free Step-by-Step Tutorial
There is something deeply satisfying about sitting down to a meal on a handmade table setting. Crocheted placemats bring warmth, texture, and a personal touch to any dining table, and the oval shape is one of the most timeless and functional designs you can make. Whether you are a beginner looking for your first home décor project or an intermediate crocheter wanting a quick and rewarding make, this free step-by-step tutorial will walk you through everything you need to create a beautiful oval placemat from scratch.
This pattern uses basic stitches, requires minimal materials, and works up surprisingly fast. By the end of this guide, you will have a sturdy, washable placemat that fits perfectly under a dinner plate, adds charm to your kitchen table, and makes a wonderful handmade gift for anyone on your list.
Why Crochet an Oval Placemat?
Before diving into the pattern itself, it helps to understand why the oval shape is such a popular choice for placemats. A circular placemat can feel a little too small for a standard dinner plate once you add a glass and silverware, while a rectangular placemat sometimes feels stiff or formal. The oval hits a sweet spot — it mimics the natural shape of a dining place setting, gives your plate plenty of breathing room, and has a soft, organic look that suits both rustic farmhouse tables and modern minimalist dining spaces.
Oval placemats are also structurally interesting to crochet. They start from a foundation chain, and you work in rounds around both sides of that chain, which gives you a naturally elongated shape. Once you understand how that beginning works, the rest of the pattern flows very easily and becomes almost meditative.
Materials You Will Need
You do not need much to get started. Here is a complete list of everything this pattern calls for.
Yarn: 100% cotton yarn in a medium weight (size 4 / worsted weight) is highly recommended. Cotton is durable, easy to wash, and has just the right amount of stiffness to keep your placemat lying flat on the table. You will need approximately 150 to 200 yards per placemat, depending on the size you choose. Popular color choices include natural cream, sage green, dusty blue, terracotta, and white, but truly any color you love will work beautifully.
Hook: A 5.0 mm (H/8) crochet hook pairs well with worsted weight cotton. If your tension runs tight, size up to a 5.5 mm hook. If your tension runs loose, drop down to a 4.5 mm hook. The goal is a fabric that is firm enough to lay flat but not so stiff that it feels like cardboard.
Scissors: A good pair of craft scissors for snipping ends.
Yarn needle: Also called a tapestry needle or darning needle, you will use this to weave in your yarn ends at the finish.
Measuring tape: Helpful for checking your dimensions as you work.
Stitch marker (optional): Placing a stitch marker at the beginning of each round helps you keep track of your rounds, especially as the oval grows larger and the stitch count increases.
Gauge
Gauge is not critical for a placemat the way it is for a wearable garment, but it does affect your finished size. With worsted weight cotton and a 5.0 mm hook, you should get approximately 14 single crochet stitches and 16 rows per 4 inches (10 cm). If your placemat is coming out smaller than the target dimensions, try a larger hook. If it is coming out larger or feeling loose and floppy, try a smaller hook.
Finished Dimensions
This pattern produces a placemat that measures approximately 13 inches wide by 18 inches long (33 cm x 46 cm), which is a standard placemat size that comfortably fits a dinner plate, a salad plate, a glass, and silverware. If you want a smaller placemat, you can shorten your starting chain. If you want a larger one, you can lengthen it or add extra rounds at the end.
Abbreviations and Stitches Used
This pattern uses standard US crochet terminology. Here is a quick reference for every abbreviation you will encounter.
ch — chain
sl st — slip stitch
sc — single crochet
hdc — half double crochet
dc — double crochet
st — stitch
sts — stitches
sp — space
BLO — back loop only
MR — magic ring (optional starting method)
Pattern Notes
Working an oval in crochet is similar to working a flat oval in any other medium — you create length with a chain, then add increases at the short ends to allow the piece to curve around into an oval shape. Each time you work a new round, you will add increases at both curved ends to keep the oval lying flat without puckering or ruffling.
Read through the entire pattern once before you begin. This is always good practice, especially when you are learning a new construction method.
Step-by-Step Instructions
Foundation Chain
Begin by chaining 31. This is your starting chain, and it forms the length of your oval. If you want a longer placemat, add more chains in increments of two. If you want a shorter one, remove chains in the same way, keeping the number odd.
Round 1
Work the first round directly into the chain you just made.
Starting in the second chain from the hook, work 1 sc in each of the next 29 chains. You have now worked across the top of the chain. Here comes the pivotal part of the oval construction: at the end of the chain, work 3 sc into the very last chain. This creates the curve at one short end.
Now rotate your work and crochet back along the bottom of the same foundation chain. Work 1 sc into each of the next 29 chains along the underside. At the end (which is where you started), work 2 sc into the same stitch where you placed your very first sc. Join with a slip stitch to the first sc to close the round.
You should have 64 stitches total at the end of Round 1.
Round 2
Chain 1 (this does not count as a stitch throughout this pattern). Work 1 sc in each of the next 29 stitches across the flat side. At the curved end, work 2 sc into each of the next 3 stitches (the three increase stitches from the previous round). Work 1 sc in each of the next 29 stitches across the other flat side. At the second curved end, work 2 sc into each of the next 2 stitches. Join with a slip stitch to the first sc.
You should now have 69 stitches.
Round 3
Chain 1. Work 1 sc in each of the next 29 stitches. At the first curved end, work the following sequence: 2 sc in the next stitch, 1 sc in the next stitch, 2 sc in the next stitch, 1 sc in the next stitch, 2 sc in the next stitch, 1 sc in the next stitch. Work 1 sc in each of the next 29 stitches across the flat side. At the second curved end, work: 2 sc in the next stitch, 1 sc in the next stitch, 2 sc in the next stitch, 1 sc in the next stitch, 2 sc in the next stitch. Join with a slip stitch.
You should have approximately 75 stitches.
Rounds 4 through 8 — Body of the Placemat
The body rounds are where your placemat builds up its size and takes on a satisfying, solid feel. For these rounds, you will continue working in the same pattern, adding increases only at the curved ends to maintain the flat oval shape. The flat sides are worked even — no increases, just one stitch per stitch all the way along.
For each of these rounds, the key rule is to spread your increases evenly around the curved ends, placing them so that the stitches between increases grow by one each round. This is the same logic used in crocheting a flat circle, but applied to just the two ends of your oval.
Round 4: Work even along the flat sides (no increases). At each curved end, work increases with 2 stitches between each increase pair.
Round 5: Work even along the flat sides. At each curved end, work increases with 3 stitches between each increase pair.
Round 6: Work even along the flat sides. At each curved end, work increases with 4 stitches between each increase pair.
Round 7: Work even along the flat sides. At each curved end, work increases with 5 stitches between each increase pair.
Round 8: Work even along the flat sides. At each curved end, work increases with 6 stitches between each increase pair.
By the time you finish Round 8, your oval should measure approximately 11 inches by 16 inches, and it should be lying completely flat. If it is starting to ruffle or cup at the edges, adjust your increases accordingly — fewer increases if it ruffles, more increases if it cups.
Rounds 9 and 10 — Final Body Rounds
Continue the same increase pattern for two more rounds, spreading increases generously at the curved ends while working the flat sides without increases.
After Round 10, your placemat should be approaching the final target dimensions of 13 x 18 inches. If it is there, you are ready for the border. If you want a slightly larger placemat, add one or two more body rounds before proceeding.
Round 11 — Border Round (Optional)
A border gives your placemat a polished, finished appearance and helps the edges lie extra flat. This round is optional but highly recommended.
Chain 1 and work 1 hdc into every stitch around the entire oval, working 2 hdc into the stitches at each of the two curved ends to maintain the shape without puckering. Join with a slip stitch and fasten off, leaving a 6-inch tail for weaving in.
For an even more decorative edge, you can replace this final round with a simple shell border or a row of reverse single crochet (also called crab stitch), which creates a lovely twisted rope effect along the edge.
Finishing
Cut your yarn, leaving a 6-inch tail. Pull the tail through the last loop to secure it. Thread your yarn needle with the tail and weave it carefully back and forth through several stitches on the wrong side of the placemat, then in the opposite direction for extra security. Trim the end close to the fabric. Repeat for your starting tail.
Block your finished placemat by wetting it thoroughly, gently squeezing out excess water (do not wring it), and laying it flat on a clean towel. Shape it to the correct dimensions with your hands, pin the edges if needed, and allow it to dry completely. Blocking is especially important for cotton, as it relaxes the fibers, evens out the stitches, and helps the placemat lie perfectly flat on your table.
Tips for Beginners
If this is your first oval crochet project, a few extra notes might make the process smoother.
Keep your tension consistent throughout. The most common issue with flat oval projects is uneven tension, which can cause bumps, curling, or an asymmetrical shape. Try to pull your yarn to the same tightness on every stitch, and pause every round or two to lay your work flat and check that it is not pulling up.
Count your stitches at the end of every round. It takes only a few seconds and saves significant frustration. If your stitch count is off, it is much easier to fix early than after several rounds have been added.
Use a stitch marker. Place one at the start of each round and move it up as you go. This is especially helpful in the later rounds when the oval is large and all the stitches start to blur together.
Do not be discouraged if your first oval is not perfect. Ovals are trickier to keep flat than circles or squares, and even experienced crocheters sometimes need to frog (rip out) and redo a round or two. Every attempt teaches your hands something new.
Color and Yarn Ideas
One of the best things about making your own placemats is the freedom to customize them completely. Here are a few color and yarn ideas to inspire you.
A set of four placemats in a single neutral color like undyed natural cotton creates a clean, organic table setting that suits almost any home. A set in a gradient of colors — from light cream to deep terracotta, for example — adds visual warmth to the table without clashing with your dishes. Variegated or self-striping cotton yarn does the color work for you and creates a beautiful effect with zero extra effort. For a festive table, try deep red or forest green for holiday gatherings, or a bright sunny yellow for summer outdoor dining.
If you want to add a stripe, simply switch yarn colors at the beginning of any round by joining the new color with your slip stitch when you close the previous round.
Care Instructions
Placemats take a lot of use and need to be washed regularly. Cotton is wonderfully easy to care for: machine wash on a gentle cycle with cold or warm water, and either lay flat to dry or tumble dry on low. Avoid high heat, which can shrink cotton significantly. If your placemat loses its flat shape after washing, simply dampen it again and block it back into shape with your hands.
Making a Matching Set
Once you finish your first oval placemat, you will almost certainly want to make more. A set of four is the classic choice for a family table. If you start a new placemat right away while the pattern is fresh in your hands, the process goes even faster — most crocheters find that each subsequent placemat in a set works up more quickly than the one before it as their hands settle into the rhythm.
You can also use this same oval construction to make other coordinating pieces, like a matching table runner, a bread basket liner, or a mug rug in a smaller version of the same oval shape.
Final Thoughts
Crocheting an oval placemat is one of those projects that manages to be both practical and genuinely enjoyable. It is portable enough to take on a road trip or work on while watching a film, and it is simple enough that you can have a conversation or listen to a podcast while your hands stay busy. But at the end, you have something real and useful: a handmade piece that will sit on your table every single day, bringing a little handmade beauty into even the most ordinary meal.
Whether you make one for yourself, a full set for your dining table, or a stack as heartfelt gifts, this pattern gives you a solid foundation you can return to again and again. Try different colors, experiment with different border styles, play with the length of your starting chain to get different proportions — and most of all, enjoy the process.
Happy crocheting!
