Doily #45 by Rieko Asano: A Complete Guide to This Timeless Crochet Pattern

There is something deeply satisfying about sitting down with a fine steel hook, a ball of thread, and the quiet intention of making something beautiful from nothing but loops and knots. Crochet doilies occupy a special place in the needlework world — they are simultaneously practical and decorative, humble in material yet stunning in the finished result. Among the many beloved doily patterns that crocheters return to again and again, Doily #45 by Rieko Asano stands out as a particularly graceful example of Japanese crochet design at its finest.

Whether you are new to thread crochet or an experienced lacemaker looking for your next project, this guide will walk you through everything you need to know about this pattern — from the tools and materials you will need, to the design philosophy behind it, tips for reading Japanese crochet charts, and advice for finishing and displaying your completed doily beautifully.

Who Is Rieko Asano?

Before diving into the pattern itself, it helps to understand the creative tradition behind it. Rieko Asano is a Japanese crochet designer whose work reflects the extraordinary precision and artistry that Japanese needlework is famous for worldwide. Japanese crochet patterns — particularly those published by companies like Nihon Vogue and in magazines such as Ondori — have gained an international following among textile artists who admire their structural elegance, intricate stitch combinations, and the clarity of their symbolic chart systems.

Asano’s designs often blend geometric forms with organic, flower-inspired motifs, creating doilies that feel both mathematically satisfying and naturally beautiful. Doily #45 is a wonderful example of this balance. It features repeating motifs worked outward from a central ring, building in complexity and texture round by round until the finished piece reaches its full diameter.

What Makes Doily #45 Special?

Doily #45 is a mid-to-large format doily that showcases several hallmarks of refined Japanese crochet design. At its heart, the pattern begins with a small central motif — typically a ring formed from chain stitches — and expands outward through a series of carefully structured rounds. The pattern incorporates a mix of classic crochet stitches including chains, single crochets, double crochets, treble crochets, and picots, woven together in a way that creates depth and visual movement.

What distinguishes this particular pattern from many Western doily designs is the way negative space is used intentionally. The open lacework sections are not simply gaps between stitches — they are deliberately shaped voids that give the finished doily its airy, delicate appearance. When worked in fine white or ecru thread, these sections catch light and shadow in a way that makes the doily appear almost three-dimensional, even though it lies completely flat.

The outer edging of Doily #45 is especially noteworthy. Asano finishes the design with a series of scalloped or pointed picot arches that create a beautifully rhythmic border, giving the doily a finished, polished look that holds its shape well after blocking. This edging is often what draws crocheters to the pattern in the first place — it has the quality of handmade lace that genuinely looks difficult to achieve, even though the steps, once understood, are entirely accessible to an intermediate crocheter.

Materials and Tools You Will Need

Getting the right materials makes an enormous difference when working with thread crochet. Unlike yarn projects where a slightly different gauge can often be corrected mid-project, thread doilies benefit from careful material selection from the start.

Thread: The most traditional choice for a doily of this style is a fine cotton crochet thread. Size 10 cotton thread is the standard weight for most Japanese doily patterns of this scale, giving a finished piece with good stitch definition and a crisp, clean hand. Brands like Anchor, DMC, Coats & Clark (Aunt Lydia’s), and the Japanese brand Olympus all offer excellent size 10 cotton thread in white and ecru, which are the classic choices for a design like this. If you prefer a slightly warmer look, ecru is a beautiful option, lending the finished doily an antique, heirloom quality.

For a larger, more dramatic finished piece, you could consider size 8 thread, which will give you a doily with slightly more body and presence. For something more delicate and intricate in appearance, some advanced crocheters work this pattern in size 20 or even size 30 thread, though these finer weights require considerably more patience and excellent lighting.

Hook: You will need a steel crochet hook sized to match your thread. For size 10 thread, a US size 7 steel hook (1.65mm) is a common starting point, though you may find that a size 6 (1.80mm) or size 8 (1.50mm) gives you a better tension depending on how you naturally hold your hook and control your thread. Japanese patterns sometimes include a recommended hook size, so check the original pattern notes if available.

Additional supplies: A blocking board or foam mat, a set of rust-proof blocking pins, a tapestry needle for weaving in ends, and a bowl of water or starch solution for finishing — these are the essential tools you will return to at the end of every thread crochet project and they make a real difference in the final appearance of your work.

Reading Japanese Crochet Charts

One of the things that sometimes gives Western crocheters pause when approaching a Rieko Asano pattern is the format. Most Japanese crochet patterns are presented as symbol charts rather than written-out row-by-row instructions in text format. At first glance these charts can look intimidating, but they are actually a beautiful and highly intuitive way of presenting crochet instructions once you learn the symbol language.

Each stitch in Japanese crochet symbology has a standardized graphic representation. A vertical oval or small oval typically represents a chain stitch. An X or + shape represents a single crochet. A T-shaped symbol with one bar through the stem represents a double crochet, while a T-shape with two bars represents a treble crochet, and so on. Picots are often shown as small loops or circles branching off the main stitch line.

Because these symbols are standardized across almost all Japanese crochet publications, once you have learned the system for one pattern, you can read virtually any Japanese crochet chart. There are excellent symbol key references available online and in books like “Japanese Crochet Stitches” which can help you build this vocabulary quickly.

The charts for Doily #45 are worked in rounds radiating outward from the center, which is shown as a small circle in the middle of the diagram. Each round is clearly delineated, and the repeat units within each round are usually indicated by brackets or by the natural visual repetition in the chart itself. Work your way outward round by round, matching each symbol to its corresponding stitch, and the pattern will unfold naturally.

One practical tip: before you begin crocheting, spend ten or fifteen minutes simply studying the chart and tracing the path of the thread with your finger or a pencil. Mentally working through two or three rounds before you actually pick up your hook and thread helps enormously, and many experienced thread crocheters swear by this preparation step.

Step-by-Step Overview of the Construction

While the specific stitch counts and round-by-round details are given in the original Rieko Asano pattern chart, it is helpful to understand the overall architecture of Doily #45 before you begin. Like most Japanese doilies, this pattern is constructed in distinct phases.

The center section establishes the foundation ring and the first several rounds that create the central motif. This is typically the most dense section of the work in terms of stitches per unit of fabric, and it sets the design’s primary geometric or floral theme. Work these early rounds slowly and carefully, as any tensions issues here will ripple outward through every subsequent round.

The middle section is where the pattern opens up and the lacework character of the design begins to emerge. Chain loops, elongated stitches, and open-work mesh sections become more prominent in this zone. This is often the most enjoyable part of the project because you can see the design expanding beautifully and the overall shape becoming clear.

The outer section builds toward the final edge, often incorporating the most visually complex or decorative elements of the design. In Doily #45, the outer rounds feature the distinctive scalloped or pointed edging that gives the piece its finished character. These rounds require careful attention to maintain the correct stitch count and to ensure that the edge lies flat rather than ruffling or pulling in — both of which indicate a tension problem that blocking alone cannot fully correct.

Tension, Gauge, and Getting a Flat Doily

One of the most common challenges in thread crochet is keeping the work flat. Unlike knit or woven fabric, crochet lace worked in the round has a natural tendency to cup, ruffle, or distort if the increases are not managed correctly. Japanese patterns like Doily #45 are engineered to lie flat when worked at the correct gauge, but achieving that gauge requires some attention.

If your doily is cupping (pulling up in the center like a bowl), your tension is too tight. Try working with a slightly larger hook, or consciously relax your grip on both the hook and the thread.

If your doily is ruffling (developing wavy or frilly edges), your tension is too loose. Try moving down one hook size, or make a conscious effort to keep your thread wrapped slightly more snugly.

Working a small gauge swatch before beginning the full project — even just the first three or four rounds — and measuring it against the finished dimensions in the pattern can save you significant frustration later.

Blocking: The Step That Transforms Everything

Experienced thread crocheters know that blocking is not optional — it is the step that takes a doily from looking merely finished to looking truly magnificent. Before blocking, even a beautifully worked doily can look slightly rumpled, the stitches uneven, the lacework sections compressed and indistinct. After blocking, those same stitches open up, align themselves, and the full geometric beauty of the pattern becomes visible.

To block Doily #45, begin by soaking it completely in cool water for about fifteen to twenty minutes. Some crocheters add a small amount of liquid starch to the soaking water for extra crispness in the final result, which is particularly lovely for a display piece. Gently squeeze (never wring) the excess water from the doily, then roll it briefly in a clean dry towel to absorb more moisture.

Place the damp doily on your blocking board and pin it out to its finished dimensions, starting by pinning the center and then working outward, pinning each scallop or picot point of the outer edge carefully. The goal is a smooth, flat surface with the design perfectly symmetrical. This pinning process takes patience, but it is genuinely meditative work, and the result is absolutely worth the effort.

Allow the doily to dry completely before removing the pins — this may take twelve to twenty-four hours depending on the weight of the thread and the humidity of your environment. When you remove the pins, you will have a crisp, beautiful piece of lacework that holds its shape beautifully.

Display and Care Ideas

A finished Doily #45 is a genuinely heirloom-quality object that deserves to be shown off. The most traditional use is as a table centerpiece, placed under a vase, candle holder, or floral arrangement where the lacework can be seen from all sides. The circular form and radiating design make it naturally suited to this purpose.

Other wonderful display ideas include framing the doily under glass as wall art, which is a particularly beautiful option for a piece worked in ecru thread. Vintage oval or round frames work beautifully for this purpose. You can also use the doily as a dresser topper, a tray liner, or a pillow accent.

For care, cotton thread doilies should be hand-washed gently in cool water with a mild soap, rinsed thoroughly, and blocked again if necessary after washing. Avoid machine washing, which can distort the structure of the lacework. Store doilies rolled in acid-free tissue paper rather than folded, which prevents permanent crease lines from forming in the thread.

Tips for Success from Experienced Thread Crocheters

Good lighting is essential. Thread crochet worked in poor light leads to missed stitches and eye strain. A bright, focused lamp — ideally daylight-spectrum — positioned over your work makes a significant difference in both accuracy and comfort.

Use a thread holder or thread bowl to keep your ball of thread from rolling around and tangling as you work. A small ceramic bowl works perfectly for this, allowing the thread to unwind smoothly without twisting.

Mark your rounds. Placing a small stitch marker at the beginning of each round, or using a pencil to mark off completed rounds on a printed copy of the chart, helps you keep track of your progress and makes it easy to find your place if you set the work down between sessions.

Take breaks. Thread crochet involves sustained fine motor control and concentration. Working for extended periods without breaks can lead to hand and eye fatigue. Short regular breaks help you maintain both the quality of your work and your own comfort.

Why Thread Crochet Is Worth Learning

There is an intimacy to thread crochet that larger yarn projects rarely achieve. The fineness of the material, the precision required, and the slowness of the process invite a kind of focused attention that becomes genuinely restful once you surrender to it. Making a doily like Doily #45 is not a quick project — depending on your experience level and the size of the finished piece, it might take anywhere from several evenings to several weeks. But that time investment is part of what makes the finished object meaningful.

Rieko Asano’s Doily #45 is the kind of pattern that repays careful attention. It is complex enough to hold your interest from beginning to end, but structured enough that the logic of the design carries you forward. Every round you complete reveals a little more of the overall picture, and the moment you pull the last stitch closed, weave in that final end, and block the piece out for the first time, you will understand exactly why crochet artists have been making lace by hand for centuries.

This is a pattern worth making. It is worth the learning curve if Japanese crochet charts are new to you, worth the careful gauge work, worth the patience of blocking and pinning and waiting. The finished doily will be something you are genuinely proud of — a small, beautiful, handmade thing that could last for generations.