Daylily Coaster Free Knitting Pattern

There is something quietly satisfying about making something small and useful with your own two hands. Coasters are one of those perfect beginner-to-intermediate knitting projects that reward you quickly, let you practice new techniques without a huge time commitment, and leave you with something genuinely practical at the end. This daylily coaster pattern is one of my absolute favorites to return to — it captures the open, sun-facing shape of a daylily bloom in textured knitted fabric, and it works up beautifully in almost any cotton or wool blend you have sitting in your stash.

Whether you are looking for a thoughtful handmade gift, a way to use up yarn scraps, or simply a satisfying weekend project, this free pattern has you covered. Let’s walk through everything you need to know, from materials to finishing touches.

Why Knit Your Own Coasters?

Before we dive into the pattern itself, it is worth pausing for a moment to appreciate why handknit coasters are so worth making. Store-bought coasters do the job, of course, but they rarely have personality. A handknit coaster tells a story — it shows the texture of each individual stitch, the warmth of a color you chose deliberately, and the care that went into something made by hand.

Coasters also make wonderful gifts. They are small enough to finish in an evening or two, which means you can make a whole set of four or six in a weekend. Tuck them into a gift bag with a nice candle or a set of mugs, and you have a present that feels personal and polished without requiring weeks of work.

From a skill-building perspective, coasters let you experiment with techniques that might feel intimidating on a larger project. Lace patterning, short rows, increases and decreases, working in the round — all of these translate beautifully to a small circular or square coaster format. This particular daylily pattern uses a combination of yarn overs, knit-two-togethers, and a simple petal shaping method that will give you real confidence if you plan to move on to more complex floral designs later.

Materials You Will Need

One of the great joys of this pattern is how accessible it is in terms of materials. You do not need anything fancy or expensive to get started.

Yarn: Worsted weight cotton yarn works best for coasters because it is absorbent, washable, and holds its shape well after blocking. You will need approximately 50 to 75 yards per coaster, which means a single skein of most cotton yarns will yield a full set of four coasters with yarn to spare. That said, this pattern also works beautifully in a light DK weight wool if you prefer a softer, slightly more textured result. Choose a color that makes you happy — a warm golden yellow for a true daylily look, a soft peach or coral for a sunset feel, or a crisp white if you prefer something neutral and elegant.

Needles: US Size 5 (3.75mm) double-pointed needles or a short circular needle for magic loop method. If you prefer to work flat and seam, you can use straight needles, though the coaster will look slightly different at the join.

Additional supplies: A yarn needle for weaving in ends, scissors, stitch markers (at least 6), and a bowl of water or a blocking mat if you plan to block your finished coaster (highly recommended for the best petal definition).

Gauge: Approximately 20 stitches and 28 rows to 4 inches in stockinette stitch. For a coaster, gauge does not need to be precise — a slightly larger or smaller coaster is perfectly fine. What matters more is that your fabric feels firm enough to protect surfaces without being stiff or cardboard-like.

Abbreviations and Stitch Guide

Before you begin, take a moment to familiarize yourself with the abbreviations used throughout this pattern. If you are an experienced knitter, most of these will be second nature. If you are newer to knitting, reading through the stitch guide first will make the pattern much easier to follow.

CO — Cast on
K — Knit
P — Purl
K2tog — Knit two stitches together (a right-leaning decrease)
SSK — Slip, slip, knit (a left-leaning decrease)
YO — Yarn over (creates an eyelet and increases stitch count by one)
PM — Place marker
SM — Slip marker
M1R — Make one right (a right-leaning increase)
M1L — Make one left (a left-leaning increase)
Rep — Repeat
Rnd — Round
RS — Right side
WS — Wrong side
BO — Bind off

The daylily stitch pattern is built around a combination of yarn overs paired with compensating decreases to maintain stitch count while creating the lacy, open quality of a flower petal. Once you have worked through the first petal, the rhythm becomes very intuitive.

Pattern Notes

This coaster is worked from the center outward, beginning with a small number of cast-on stitches and increasing gradually to form a flat circle. The petal shaping begins partway through and creates six defined petals arranged symmetrically around the center, mimicking the typical six-petal bloom of a daylily.

The pattern is written for one coaster approximately 4 to 4.5 inches in diameter after blocking. If you would like a larger coaster, you can work one or two additional rounds before beginning the petal section, or use a slightly heavier yarn weight with correspondingly larger needles.

If you are working on double-pointed needles, divide your stitches across three or four needles and use the remaining needle to work. Keep your tension even, especially in the early rounds when you have only a small number of stitches, as the fabric can feel awkward until you have worked several rounds.

The Pattern

Casting On and Center Rounds

Begin by casting on 8 stitches using your preferred method for working in the round. The Emily Ocker circular cast-on works beautifully here and creates a nearly invisible center, but a simple loop cast-on or cable cast-on divided onto three DPNs also works well.

Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist your stitches. Place a marker to indicate the beginning of the round.

Rnd 1: Knit all stitches. (8 sts)

Rnd 2: (K1, YO) around. (16 sts)

Rnd 3: Knit all stitches. (16 sts)

Rnd 4: (K1, M1L, K1) around. (24 sts)

Rnd 5: Knit all stitches. (24 sts)

Rnd 6: (K1, YO, K2, YO) around. (32 sts)

Rnd 7: Knit all stitches. (32 sts)

Rnd 8: (K2, M1L, K2) around. (40 sts)

Rnd 9: Knit all stitches. (40 sts)

At this point you should have a small, flat circle with 40 stitches. Your work should lie completely flat. If it is cupping upward, your tension may be too tight and you can try going up half a needle size. If it is ruffling or gathering too loosely, try going down half a size.

Placing Petal Markers

Before beginning the petal section, you will divide your stitches into six equal sections to mark where each petal will grow. With 40 stitches, you cannot divide evenly into 6, so in the next round you will make a small adjustment.

Rnd 10 (setup round): K3, M1L, (K6, M1L) five times, K1. (46 sts — you may adjust to 48 sts for cleaner division as follows: K1, M1L, repeat around.)

For simplicity and clean division, work this setup round to arrive at 48 stitches total. The exact method of increasing will depend on where your stitches fall, and a small variation of one or two stitches will not affect the final look meaningfully. Once you have 48 stitches, place a stitch marker every 8 stitches to divide the round into 6 equal sections of 8 stitches each.

Petal Rounds

Now the real magic begins. Each section of 8 stitches will be shaped into a single petal using yarn overs and decreases.

Rnd 11: (K1, YO, K2, SSK, K2tog, K2, YO) repeat to marker, SM. Repeat across all 6 sections. (48 sts — stitch count maintained by paired YO and decreases)

Rnd 12: Knit all stitches. (48 sts)

Rnd 13: (K1, YO, K1, YO, K1, SSK, K2tog, K1, YO, K1) to marker, SM. Repeat across all 6 sections. (48 sts)

Rnd 14: Knit all stitches. (48 sts)

Rnd 15: (YO, K3, SSK, K2tog, K3, YO) to marker, SM. Repeat across all 6 sections. (48 sts)

Rnd 16: Knit all stitches. (48 sts)

Rnd 17 (petal tip round): (K2, YO, K1, SSK, K2tog, K1, YO, K2) to marker, SM. Repeat across all 6 sections. (48 sts)

Rnd 18: Knit all stitches. (48 sts)

Rnd 19 (outer edge round): (K1, YO, K6, YO, K1) to marker, SM. Repeat across all 6 sections. (60 sts)

Rnd 20: Purl all stitches. This creates a subtle ridgeline at the outer edge of each petal that gives the coaster beautiful definition and a finished look.

Bind Off

Bind off loosely using a stretchy bind-off method. The standard bind-off works, but the yarn-over bind-off or the suspended bind-off will give you a softer, more flexible edge that lies flatter after blocking.

To work a basic stretchy bind-off: K1, YO, K1, pass the first stitch over both the YO and the new stitch, pass the YO over the new stitch; repeat from across. This creates a very elastic edge that works beautifully for circular projects.

Cut your yarn, leaving a 6-inch tail, and draw it through the last stitch to secure.

Finishing and Weaving In Ends

Thread your yarn needle with the cast-on tail and weave it through the original cast-on stitches at the center of the coaster, then pull gently to close any gap. Weave the tail in securely on the wrong side.

Weave in the bind-off tail in the same way, working it along the purl ridge on the wrong side for security.

Trim all ends close to the fabric once they are woven in.

Blocking Your Daylily Coaster

Blocking is what takes this coaster from nice to truly beautiful. Because of the lace-like yarn overs that form the petal shapes, the design really opens up and blooms when wet-blocked, and the petals become much more clearly defined.

To block your coaster, soak it in cool or lukewarm water for about 10 to 15 minutes until it is completely saturated. Gently squeeze out excess water — do not wring or twist — and then roll it in a clean towel to remove more moisture.

Lay the damp coaster on a blocking mat or a folded towel on a flat surface. Using your fingers, gently ease each petal outward into a symmetrical shape. You can pin the outer tip of each petal with a blocking pin or a regular straight pin to hold the shape while it dries. Aim for six evenly-spaced petals that radiate cleanly from the center.

Allow it to dry completely before removing the pins. This usually takes several hours or overnight depending on your environment. Once dry, the coaster will hold its shape beautifully even through washing.

Tips for Making a Matching Set

If you plan to make a set of coasters as a gift or for your own home, a few small decisions made upfront will help the set look polished and cohesive.

Wind all your yarn from the same skein before you begin, so that your color is completely consistent across all coasters. Some cotton yarns have slight dye variations within a skein that can make one coaster look noticeably different from another if you do not pre-wind.

Keep one coaster as your reference as you work the others. After blocking the first one, you will have a clear sense of how large it should be and how the petals should be shaped. Use it as your guide when blocking the remaining coasters so that they all finish at a similar size.

Store your finished, blocked coasters flat or rolled loosely. Stacking them tightly for a long period can occasionally leave temporary crease marks, though these will generally relax with use.

Yarn Suggestions and Color Ideas

The beauty of a small project like this is that you can be adventurous with color in a way that feels low-stakes. Here are a few directions to consider.

A true daylily yellow — warm, golden, and vibrant — is the classic choice and looks stunning on a wooden or natural linen surface. Paintbox Simply DK in Banana Cream or Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton in Goldenrod are both excellent budget-friendly options.

For a more subtle, sophisticated look, try a dusty mauve or antique rose. These shades give the coaster a slightly vintage quality that works beautifully in neutral or Scandinavian-inspired interiors.

Multicolor or gradient yarns can be hit or miss with patterned coasters. If the color changes are very gradual, they can enhance the petal shapes beautifully. If they change quickly (every few yards), they may obscure the stitch pattern. Test a small swatch if you are unsure.

A crisp, bright white or off-white cotton coaster has a clean, timeless look and photographs beautifully if you use your finished objects for social media or craft fairs.

Customizing the Pattern

This pattern is wonderfully adaptable once you understand the basic logic of it. A few easy customizations are worth exploring.

You can add a center embellishment by working the first few rounds in a contrasting color to create a small colorwork center that peeks through the middle of the finished coaster. Simply carry both yarns and change at the beginning of a round.

If you would like a slightly stiffer coaster that holds its shape even without blocking, add a thin round of crochet single stitch around the outside edge after finishing and before blocking. This is a popular technique among coaster knitters who prefer a crisper, more defined shape.

For a thicker, more padded coaster, double your yarn and work with a correspondingly larger needle. This creates a coaster with more substance under a hot mug, though it will be slightly less delicate in appearance.

Caring for Your Knitted Coasters

Cotton coasters are wonderfully practical because they are machine washable in most cases, especially if you have used a 100% cotton yarn. Wash on a gentle cycle in cool water and reshape while damp if needed. Avoid hot water or a hot dryer, as cotton can shrink significantly.

Wool or wool-blend coasters should be hand washed in cool water with a gentle wool wash and laid flat to dry. They are not suitable for machine washing unless the yarn is specifically labeled as superwash.

With good care, a well-knit cotton coaster will last for years and only get better with washing, as the fibers soften slightly and the fabric becomes more flexible and absorbent over time.

Final Thoughts

The daylily coaster is one of those patterns that balances satisfying technique with a genuinely beautiful result. It is accessible enough that a confident beginner with some experience working in the round can complete it successfully, and interesting enough that experienced knitters will enjoy the petal shaping and lace details. It works up quickly, uses minimal yarn, and produces something both lovely and useful.

Make one for yourself, make a set as a gift, or make a whole basket of them in different colors to brighten up your home this season. However you use this pattern, I hope it brings you the particular quiet joy that comes from making something beautiful with your own hands.

Happy knitting.