Crochet Placemat Free Pattern – Luxury Turkish Model

There is something deeply satisfying about setting a beautiful table. Before the food arrives, before the candles are lit, before guests pull up their chairs, the table itself tells a story. A hand-crocheted placemat speaks louder than anything store-bought ever could. It says that someone slowed down, picked up a hook, and made something with care. If you have been searching for a crochet placemat free pattern that feels elevated and special — something with a rich, layered look rather than a simple granny square — then this Luxury Turkish Model is exactly what you need.

This pattern draws inspiration from traditional Turkish textile arts, where geometry, symmetry, and intricate repeating motifs have been a cornerstone of decorative craft for centuries. Turkish kilims, iznik tiles, and Ottoman embroidery all share a common visual language: bold medallion centers, radiating patterns, and a sense of disciplined elegance. This placemat captures that spirit in crochet, translating those ancient design principles into stitches that any intermediate crocheter can master.

Whether you are making a set for your own dining room or gifting a hand-crafted piece to someone who deserves something truly special, this pattern will reward your effort with a result that looks far more complex than it actually is to make.

What Makes This Pattern “Luxury”

The word luxury gets thrown around a lot, but in the context of this crochet placemat free pattern, it refers to several deliberate design choices. First, the construction uses a combination of stitches that create visual depth — the finished piece looks almost woven, with layers of texture that catch the light differently depending on the angle. Second, the overall shape is a refined oval or rectangle with a structured border that gives the mat a tailored, finished appearance rather than a casual handmade look. Third, the stitch pattern itself draws on Turkish decorative motifs, meaning the design has cultural weight and artistic heritage behind it.

You do not need expensive yarn to achieve this look. What matters more is yarn weight consistency and tension control. However, if you do choose a slightly higher quality cotton — a mercerized cotton, for instance — the sheen will absolutely elevate the finished piece and make it look like something from a boutique home goods store.

Materials You Will Need

Before you begin, gather everything so your crochet session is smooth and uninterrupted.

For yarn, you will want a worsted weight or DK weight cotton yarn in two coordinating colors. The main color will dominate the central medallion and the body of the mat, while the contrast color appears in the border and accent rows. Approximately 150 to 200 grams of main color and 50 to 80 grams of contrast color per placemat is a reasonable estimate depending on your finished size. A mercerized or combed cotton gives the cleanest stitch definition for this type of geometric pattern, but any smooth cotton will work well. Avoid fuzzy or textured yarns for this particular design, as the stitch definition is central to the Turkish motif effect.

For your hook, a 3.5mm to 4mm aluminum or ergonomic hook works well with most DK to worsted cotton. Check your tension before beginning and adjust accordingly.

You will also need a tapestry needle for weaving in ends, scissors, blocking mats and pins if you plan to block the finished piece (highly recommended for a polished result), and a measuring tape.

The finished placemat measures approximately 33 cm by 45 cm (about 13 by 18 inches), which is a standard placemat size. You can easily adjust this by adding or subtracting pattern repeats in the body section.

Abbreviations and Stitch Guide

This pattern uses standard US crochet terminology throughout.

ch means chain. sl st means slip stitch. sc means single crochet. hdc means half double crochet. dc means double crochet. tr means treble crochet. BPdc means back post double crochet. FPdc means front post double crochet. sp means space. rep means repeat. st means stitch. RS means right side. WS means wrong side.

The Turkish medallion effect is achieved primarily through alternating front post and back post double crochet stitches combined with shell clusters. If you have never worked post stitches before, take a moment to practice them on a small swatch. The principle is simple: instead of inserting your hook through the top loops of the stitch below, you insert the hook around the post (the vertical bar) of that stitch. FPdc is worked from the front, BPdc from the back. Together, they create the raised, ribbed texture that gives this pattern its textile-like quality.

A shell in this pattern consists of five double crochet stitches worked into the same stitch or space unless otherwise noted.

Pattern Notes

This placemat is worked in joined rounds from the center outward for the medallion section, then transitioned into flat rows for the rectangular body, and finished with a decorative border worked in joined rounds again. The construction may sound complex written out, but each section is intuitive once you are holding the work in your hands.

Gauge is approximately 18 stitches and 10 rows to 10 cm in double crochet using a 3.75mm hook. Since placemats are not garments, gauge does not need to be precise, but staying consistent throughout is important for even tension.

Use stitch markers generously. Mark the beginning of each round, the center stitches of any corners, and the transition points between sections. This will save you significant frustration.

The Pattern

Section One: The Central Medallion

Begin with your main color yarn.

Magic ring (or chain 4 and join with a slip stitch to form a ring).

Round 1: ch 3 (counts as first dc), work 11 dc into the ring, join with sl st to top of beginning ch-3. You will have 12 stitches.

Round 2: ch 3, dc in same stitch, 2 dc in each stitch around, join with sl st to top of ch-3. You will have 24 stitches.

Round 3: ch 3, dc in same stitch, dc in next stitch, [2 dc in next stitch, dc in next stitch] repeat around, join. You will have 36 stitches.

Round 4: ch 1, sc in same stitch, [ch 3, skip 2 stitches, sc in next stitch] repeat around, ending ch 3, skip 2, join with sl st to first sc. You will have 12 ch-3 spaces.

Round 5: sl st into first ch-3 space, ch 3, work 4 dc into same space (first shell), ch 1, [5 dc into next ch-3 space, ch 1] repeat around, join with sl st to top of ch-3. You will have 12 shells.

Round 6: sl st to center dc of first shell, ch 1, sc in same stitch, [ch 4, sc in center dc of next shell] repeat around, ch 4, join. You will have 12 ch-4 spaces.

Round 7: sl st into ch-4 space, ch 3, work 6 dc into same space, [7 dc into next ch-4 space] repeat around, join. This creates a fuller, more open medallion ring. You will have 12 groups of 7 dc.

Round 8: ch 1, sc in first stitch, FPdc around the post of the stitch in Round 6 directly below (working around the chain arch to the sc beneath), [sc in next 6 stitches, FPdc around corresponding stitch below] repeat around, join. This stitch creates the raised spoke effect that is characteristic of the Turkish medallion design.

Round 9: ch 3, dc in each stitch around, working dc in each sc and FPdc from the previous round. Join. At this point your medallion should measure approximately 10 to 12 cm across. If it is curling significantly, loosen your tension slightly or go up a hook size for the next round.

Round 10: ch 1, sc in first stitch, [ch 2, skip 1 stitch, sc in next stitch] repeat around, join. Fasten off main color.

Section Two: The Body

Join contrast color to any ch-2 space.

Round 11: ch 3, dc in same space, dc in next sc, [2 dc in ch-2 space, dc in next sc] repeat around, join. This fills in the lacework round and creates a solid fabric base for the body of the mat.

Round 12: Join main color. ch 3, [FPdc around next dc, BPdc around next dc] repeat around for the full round, ending with a join. This alternating post stitch row creates the first visible ridge of the Turkish textile pattern.

Round 13: ch 3, [BPdc around each FPdc from previous round, FPdc around each BPdc from previous round] repeat around — in other words, the ribbing reverses itself. Join. Work Rounds 12 and 13 alternately for a total of 6 post stitch rounds (Rounds 12 through 17). This section becomes the inner body of the placemat and will be shaped into a rectangle in the next section.

At this point you will transition from working in the round to working in rows to create the rectangular placemat shape. To do this, count your stitches and divide them approximately into a ratio of 2 parts length to 1 part width. For a standard placemat, mark off two groups of approximately 60 stitches for the long sides and two groups of approximately 30 stitches for the short sides, adjusting as needed to your stitch count.

Turn your work and begin working in flat rows back and forth across one of the 60-stitch sections. Continue the alternating FPdc and BPdc pattern (the rib pattern reverses on WS rows to maintain the RS look). Work approximately 10 to 12 rows across, then connect the far ends to complete the rectangular body. If this shaping feels complex, you can alternatively continue working in the round and simply use your stitch counts to maintain a rectangular form by adding two dc at each of the four corners every round (similar to a rectangular granny square construction). Both methods produce a beautiful result; the in-the-round method is slightly more beginner-friendly.

Section Three: The Accent Row

Before working the final border, join contrast color and work one round of sc evenly around the entire perimeter of the placemat, working 3 sc into each corner stitch to keep the corners flat and sharp. Join with sl st. This defines the edge of the body and creates a clean canvas for the border.

Section Four: The Luxury Turkish Border

The border is where this crochet placemat free pattern truly distinguishes itself. The Turkish border is a modified wave-and-shell pattern with a raised ridge that echoes the post stitch texture of the body.

Round 1 of border: Join main color. ch 1, sc evenly around, 3 sc in each corner. Join.

Round 2: ch 4 (counts as dc plus ch 1), skip 1 stitch, [dc in next stitch, ch 1, skip 1 stitch] repeat around, working (dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc) into each corner sc for the corner increase. Join to third ch of beginning ch-4.

Round 3: sl st into first ch-1 space, ch 3, 2 dc into same space (half shell start), ch 1, [3 dc into next ch-1 space, ch 1] repeat around, working 5 dc into the center corner space at each corner for a full shell. Join.

Round 4: sl st to center dc of first 3-dc group, ch 1, sc in same stitch, [ch 3, FPdc around the dc from Round 2 that sits below the ch-1 space between shells, ch 3, sc in center dc of next 3-dc group] repeat around. This is the key decorative row — the raised FPdc creates a vertical spike between each shell cluster, and the ch-3 arches on either side frame it beautifully. At corners, work sc in center dc of corner shell, ch 3, FPdc as described, ch 3, sc in same center dc, then continue.

Round 5: ch 1, sc in first sc, [3 sc in ch-3 arch, sc in FPdc spike, 3 sc in next ch-3 arch, sc in next sc] repeat around. Join.

Round 6: ch 1, sc in each stitch around, working 3 sc in each corner sc. Join. Fasten off. Weave in all ends.

Finishing and Blocking

Blocking is not optional for this pattern — it is what transforms a nice crocheted piece into a truly luxurious one. Wet blocking is ideal for cotton. Soak your finished placemat in cool water for 10 to 15 minutes until thoroughly saturated. Gently squeeze out the excess water (do not wring or twist), then lay the piece flat on your blocking mats. Use pins to shape it into a perfect rectangle, stretching the border gently to open up the shell pattern. Allow to dry completely, which may take 24 hours depending on your environment.

Once dry and unpinned, the placemat will hold its shape beautifully and the stitches will look even, defined, and genuinely impressive.

Tips for Making a Matching Set

If you want to create a full set of six matching placemats — ideal for dinner parties or as a gift — keep these tips in mind. Wind all your yarn from the same dye lot at the beginning so you do not run into color variation midway through the set. Keep a consistent hook grip and tension throughout, and consider using the same hook for all six pieces rather than switching. Block all the mats at the same time if possible so they dry to the same dimensions.

For a coordinated look, you could also make a matching table runner using the same central medallion and border but working the body section to a much greater length. The post stitch ribbing translates beautifully to a longer format and the Turkish border frames it just as elegantly.

Yarn Color Suggestions

The most striking version of this placemat uses a deep jewel tone — think rich teal, burgundy, navy, or warm terracotta — for the main color, paired with a warm cream or natural ecru for the contrast. This combination echoes authentic Turkish textile colorways and creates maximum visual contrast so the shell and post stitch detailing really pops. For a more modern, minimal look, try a pale grey main color with a white contrast. For a festive or holiday version, deep green and gold are beautiful together.

Why Crochet Placemats Are Worth Your Time

In an era of fast home décor, a hand-crocheted placemat is a genuine act of slowness and intention. It takes hours to make something that will last for years. Every meal becomes slightly more beautiful when the table is set with something handmade. Guests notice. Families notice. You notice, every single time you sit down.

This particular crochet placemat free pattern — the Luxury Turkish Model — is designed to be both practical and genuinely beautiful. It is washable, durable, flat enough to be functional, and detailed enough to be a conversation piece. It honors a rich textile tradition while being completely at home on a modern table.

If you are new to post stitches, this pattern is an excellent way to practice them in a context where slight imperfections in tension will blend into the overall texture rather than standing out. If you are an experienced crocheter looking for something worthy of your skills, the medallion center and Turkish border will keep you engaged and satisfied throughout.

Make one. Block it, lay it on your table, and step back. You made that. And it is stunning.

Feel free to share your finished placemats in crochet communities and tag your work so others can find this pattern. If you adjust the sizing, colorway, or stitch counts, leave a note about your modifications — the crochet community thrives on shared variations and creative reinterpretation. Happy hooking.