Crochet Lacy Granny Square (Style II) – Free Pattern PDF
There is something endlessly satisfying about a granny square. It sits in the palm of your hand like a small, finished world — four corners, a center, rounds that build on each other in a rhythm that your hands eventually memorize. But not all granny squares are created equal, and if you have been crocheting for a while, you may be ready to move beyond the solid, chunky version that introduced most of us to the craft. That is exactly where the Lacy Granny Square comes in — and specifically, this Style II version, which takes the openwork aesthetic one step further with elegant picot details, extended stitches, and airy chain spaces that give the finished piece a delicate, almost tatted appearance.
This free pattern is suitable for crocheters who have a solid grasp of basic stitches and are comfortable working in the round. If you know how to make a magic ring, work double crochets in chain spaces, and join rounds, you are absolutely ready for this. The result is a square that works beautifully as part of a blanket, as individual coasters, as bunting panels, or joined together into a shawl or table runner. Let’s talk through everything you need to know before we dive into the stitch-by-stitch instructions.
Why the Lacy Style II Granny Square Stands Apart
The classic granny square is built on clusters of three double crochets separated by chain-two spaces, worked in solid clusters of color. It is sturdy, it is charming, and it is the foundation of countless heirloom afghans. Style I of the lacy granny square loosens that structure, introducing more chain spaces and fewer dense clusters.
Style II goes further still. Where Style I might replace one cluster with a chain, Style II reconsiders the architecture of the square more thoroughly. The corners are more pronounced, the center medallion opens up with a flower-like quality, and the final border round introduces a picot trim that makes each side look like it has been finished with tiny decorative knots. The overall effect is romantic and vintage without being fussy, and the open structure means the finished squares are lighter in weight than their traditional counterparts — a genuine advantage if you are making a large blanket and do not want something that doubles as a weighted blanket.
The lacy quality also makes these squares especially wonderful for displaying variegated or hand-dyed yarn. Because the stitches are spread out with chain spaces between them, the color transitions show more clearly and with greater visual drama than they would in dense fabric. A single skein of self-striping yarn can produce squares that each look slightly different, almost like a curated collection rather than a repeating pattern.
Materials and Tools
Before you print out the pattern and sit down with your hooks, it helps to gather everything in advance so you are not hunting for a stitch marker mid-round.
For yarn, this pattern works best with a DK weight or light worsted weight yarn. Cotton and cotton-blend yarns are particularly lovely for this design because they have a slight stiffness that helps the open chain spaces hold their shape rather than collapsing. That said, a smooth merino or an acrylic that has good stitch definition will also produce beautiful results. Avoid anything too fuzzy or heavily textured, because the lace-like structure depends on the viewer being able to see through the chain spaces, and fluffy fibers tend to fill those spaces in.
For the hook, a 4.0 mm or 4.5 mm hook is recommended for DK weight yarn. If you are working with light worsted, a 5.0 mm hook will give you a nicely open fabric without making the square feel too loose. As with any pattern, your gauge matters, especially if you are planning to join multiple squares into a larger project. Working a swatch before you start is always a worthwhile investment of twenty minutes.
You will also need a yarn needle for weaving in ends, scissors, and optionally a set of blocking mats and rust-proof pins. Blocking is worth mentioning here because it genuinely transforms lacy crochet. Before blocking, a finished square can look slightly puckered and uncertain of itself. After a quick wet block — soaking the square, pinning it to your mats in a perfect square, and letting it dry — the chain spaces open up beautifully, the corners square off, and the picots pop into their proper positions. It takes about ten minutes of active effort and a few hours of drying time, and it makes a remarkable difference.
Gauge and Finished Size
Using DK weight yarn and a 4.0 mm hook, the finished square measures approximately 5.5 inches by 5.5 inches (14 cm by 14 cm) after blocking. Using light worsted weight and a 5.0 mm hook, expect a square closer to 6.5 inches by 6.5 inches (16.5 cm by 16.5 cm).
These measurements can vary depending on your personal tension. If your squares are coming out smaller than expected, try going up half a hook size. If they are larger than expected, go down half a hook size. The lacy nature of the pattern means a small gauge difference gets amplified across multiple squares, so checking your gauge early will save you from unpleasant surprises when you start joining.
Abbreviations and Stitch Guide
All stitches in this pattern use US crochet terminology.
ch — chain
sl st — slip stitch
sc — single crochet
dc — double crochet
tr — treble crochet
ch-sp — chain space (the space created by a chain in a previous round)
picot — chain 3, slip stitch into the first chain of that chain-3 to form a small loop
magic ring — an adjustable loop used to begin working in the round; can be substituted with a ch-4 joined with a slip stitch if preferred
sk — skip
sp — space
The Free Pattern: Crochet Lacy Granny Square Style II
This pattern is written for a single square worked in one color, but notes are included throughout for working in multiple colors if you prefer.
Round 1 (Center): Make a magic ring. Ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1), [dc into the ring, ch 1] 11 times, join with a sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch-4. You will have 12 dc and 12 ch-1 spaces. Pull the magic ring closed. (12 dc, 12 ch-1 sp)
If you are working in two colors, fasten off the first color here and join the second color with a sl st into any ch-1 sp.
Round 2: Sl st into the first ch-1 sp, ch 1, [sc in ch-1 sp, ch 3] 12 times, join with a sl st to the first sc. (12 sc, 12 ch-3 loops)
Round 3: Sl st into the first ch-3 sp, ch 3 (counts as dc), 2 dc in same sp, ch 2, [3 dc in next ch-3 sp, ch 2] 11 times, join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch-3. (12 groups of 3 dc, 12 ch-2 sp)
Round 4: Sl st into the next 2 dc and into the ch-2 sp, ch 1, sc in same sp, ch 5, [sc in next ch-2 sp, ch 5] 11 times, join with a sl st to the first sc. (12 sc, 12 ch-5 loops)
This round is where the square begins to take on its lacy character. The ch-5 loops create generous arches that will form the foundation for the corner structure in the next round.
Round 5: Sl st into the first ch-5 sp, ch 3 (counts as dc), 4 dc in same sp, ch 2, 5 dc in next ch-5 sp, ch 2; repeat from around, join with sl st to top of beginning ch-3. (12 groups of 5 dc, 12 ch-2 sp)
At this stage the circle should be starting to show slight squared-off tendencies. The five-dc fans are the building blocks for the corners.
Round 6: Ch 1, sc in first dc, ch 3, sk 3 dc, sc in next dc, ch 5, sc in first dc of next group, ch 3, sk 3 dc, sc in last dc of same group; repeat from around, ending ch 5, join with sl st to first sc. (12 ch-3 sp, 12 ch-5 sp alternating)
Round 7 (Corner Round): This is the round that establishes the four corners of the square. You will be dividing the 12 fans into groups.
Sl st into first ch-3 sp, ch 4 (counts as tr), 2 tr in same sp, ch 2, sc in ch-5 sp, ch 2, [3 tr, ch 3, 3 tr] in next ch-3 sp (corner made), ch 2, sc in ch-5 sp, ch 2, 3 tr in next ch-3 sp; repeat from 3 more times, ending the last repeat with a join sl st to top of beginning ch-4. (4 corners, 4 side groups of 3 tr, 8 sc)
Take a moment here to look at your work. You should be able to clearly see four corners with ch-3 spaces at each point, and straight sides developing between them.
Round 8: Sl st to the next 2 tr and into the ch-2 sp, sl st across sc and into the next ch-2 sp, ch 3, [2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc] in corner ch-3 sp, ch 2, sk next ch-2 sp, sc in sc, ch 2, sk next ch-2 sp, 3 dc in next ch-2 sp (before corner), ch 2, [3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc] in corner ch-3 sp; repeat from 3 times, ch 2, sc in last sc, ch 2, join with sl st to top of beginning ch-3. (4 corners established, sides developing)
Round 9: Ch 1, sc in each dc across to corner sp, [sc, ch 3, sc] in corner ch-3 sp, sc in each ch-2 sp and dc across the side; repeat from 4 times total, join with sl st to first sc.
This round firms up the structure and creates a clean edge to build the final border from.
Round 10 (Picot Border): Sl st into the corner ch-3 sp, ch 1, [sc, picot, sc] in corner sp, ch 2, sk 2 sc, sc in next sc, picot, [ch 2, sk 2 sc, sc in next sc, picot] across to next corner, ch 2, [sc, picot, sc] in corner ch-3 sp; repeat from 3 more times, ch 2, join with sl st to first sc.
Fasten off and weave in all ends.
Blocking Your Finished Square
Once the square is complete, dampen it thoroughly in cool water and gently press out the excess moisture with a towel. Do not wring. Place it face up on your blocking mats and use your fingers to coax the corners into right angles and the sides into straight lines. Pin the four corners first, measuring the diagonal to make sure they are equal, then pin along the sides, gently stretching the ch-5 arches and picot loops open. Leave to dry completely, which typically takes several hours or overnight.
The difference blocking makes to this particular pattern is dramatic. The picot border becomes crisp and three-dimensional. The lace holes open up to their full size. The square looks completely finished and professional in a way it simply does not when crumpled off the hook.
Tips for Joining Multiple Squares
If you are making a blanket, throw, or table runner from these squares, there are a few joining methods that work especially well with lacy patterns.
The join-as-you-go method, where you connect the final round of each new square to the previous ones as you work, is clean and efficient. Work Round 10 on your new square, and when you reach the picot points along the edge that will connect to a finished square, replace each picot with a sl st into the corresponding picot on the finished square.
Alternatively, a single crochet flat join — where you hold two squares right sides together and sc through both edges — creates a slightly raised seam that some people find adds beautiful texture to the finished piece. A flat whip stitch through the back loops works for a nearly invisible join if you prefer the squares to flow seamlessly into each other.
Whichever method you choose, lay all your blocked squares out on a flat surface and decide on the arrangement before you begin joining. Take a photograph of the layout so you can reference it as you work.
Project Ideas Using This Square
A blanket made of 35 to 40 of these squares arranged in a seven-by-five grid creates a generous lap blanket that drapes beautifully. Because each square is lightweight and airy, the finished blanket has excellent drape and is comfortable in warmer weather, making it a nice departure from heavier crochet blankets.
A table runner made of six to eight squares joined in a single row is an elegant and practical project. The lacy open structure lets the table color or texture show through in a way that adds visual interest without overwhelming a table setting.
Individual squares mounted in embroidery hoops and hung on a wall create a striking display, especially if you work each one in a different colorway using the same pattern. The consistency of structure with variation in color is visually cohesive and makes a beautiful gallery wall piece.
Squares joined into a triangular shawl — working from a single corner square and adding squares diagonally — is a more advanced project but results in something genuinely beautiful. Add a picot-trimmed ch-5 border around the entire outer edge for a finished look that ties back to the border round of the individual squares.
Caring for Your Finished Project
Cotton and cotton-blend finished pieces can generally be machine washed on a gentle cycle in a mesh laundry bag and laid flat to dry. Merino and wool pieces should be hand washed in cool water with a wool-safe detergent and laid flat to dry. Acrylic pieces are often fully machine washable and dryer safe, though air drying will extend the life of the blocked shape.
Avoid hanging lacy crochet items on hooks or hangers for long periods of storage, as the weight of the fabric can stretch the open chain spaces unevenly. Store folded flat or rolled loosely with acid-free tissue paper if you are putting them away for an extended time.
A Note on Making This Pattern Your Own
Patterns are starting points. The Lacy Granny Square Style II as written produces a lovely finished square, but there is enormous room to personalize it. You can add an extra round of dc fans before the corner round to make a larger square. You can replace the picot border with a simple sc border if you prefer a cleaner finish. You can work the center medallion in one color, the fan rounds in a second, and the border in a third for a bold tricolor effect. You can use thread-weight yarn and a 1.75 mm hook to create miniature versions that would work as ornaments or appliqués.
The structure of the pattern — center medallion, expanding fan rounds, corner establishment, border — is stable enough that modifications tend to work well as long as you keep the stitch counts consistent at the corners. Experimentation is encouraged, and if you make a version you love, writing down what you changed is the best thing you can do for your future self.
Crochet has always been a craft that passes between people — grandmother to grandchild, neighbor to neighbor, community to community — and free patterns are part of that long tradition of sharing. Take this pattern, make it yours, share the finished squares with people you love, and if you photograph your finished work, consider sharing it with the online crochet community. Seeing the same pattern interpreted in dozens of different yarn colors and weights is one of the great joys of a connected crafting community, and your version might be exactly the inspiration someone else needs to pick up their hook and try something new.
Happy crocheting.
