Create a Beautiful Crochet Oval Violet Doily: Detailed Guide and Materials Needed
There is something deeply satisfying about creating a handmade doily. It sits on a table, drapes over a shelf, or peeks out from under a vase, and every person who notices it instinctively knows that someone made it with patience and care. Among all the shapes and color combinations available in the world of crochet, an oval violet doily holds a particularly special place. The elongated form is graceful and practical, fitting naturally under a centerpiece or along a runner, while the violet color brings warmth, elegance, and a hint of vintage charm to any space.
This guide is designed for crocheters of all skill levels. If you are picking up a hook for only the second or third time, you will find enough explanation here to feel confident moving forward. If you have been crocheting for years, you will appreciate the pattern notes, the stitch counts, and the tips for blocking a finished piece to perfection. By the time you reach the end, you will have everything you need — the materials list, the step-by-step instructions, and the finishing techniques — to create a stunning oval violet doily that you will be proud to display or gift.
Why Choose an Oval Doily?
Most beginner crocheters start with round doilies because the construction is straightforward: you begin at a center ring and work outward in circles. Oval doilies are only slightly more complex, and they reward you with a shape that has far more practical versatility. An oval fits naturally under a bread basket, a vase of flowers, a candle arrangement, or a decorative bowl. It can sit in the center of a rectangular dining table without looking lost, and it works beautifully in the middle of a coffee table or on a bedside nightstand.
The violet color choice deserves its own moment of appreciation. Violet and purple tones have long been associated with creativity, refinement, and a certain quiet sophistication. In home decor, violet acts as a neutral that leans toward the warm side, pairing beautifully with cream, white, gray, natural wood tones, and even deep greens. A violet doily in a sunlit room seems to glow with its own soft light, especially when worked in a thread with a slight sheen.
Materials Needed
Before you begin, gather all your materials. Having everything ready before you start your first chain will make the process smoother and more enjoyable.
Crochet Thread: You will need approximately 150 to 200 yards of size 10 crochet cotton thread in violet. Look for a thread labeled “size 10” or “bedspread weight.” Popular brands include Aunt Lydia’s Classic Crochet Thread Size 10, DMC Cébélia Size 10, or Lizbeth Size 10. Choose a color described as violet, medium violet, or lavender-violet depending on how deep or light you want the finished piece to be. A skein labeled “violet” tends to land in the true middle of the purple spectrum — rich enough to read as a definite color but not so dark that the lace texture gets lost.
Crochet Hook: Use a size 7 steel crochet hook, which corresponds to 1.65mm. Steel hooks are numbered in the reverse of the more familiar aluminum hooks — the higher the steel number, the smaller the hook. A size 7 steel hook is well-matched to size 10 cotton thread and will produce a fabric with the right drape and openwork character.
Stitch Markers: Keep a small supply of removable stitch markers or even simple loops of contrasting yarn. You will use these to mark the beginning of rounds and the end points of the oval base chain.
Scissors: A small, sharp pair of embroidery scissors works best for the close, precise snipping that thread work requires.
Tapestry Needle: You will need a fine tapestry needle with an eye large enough for size 10 thread. This is for weaving in your ends when the doily is complete.
Blocking Board and Pins: Blocking is what separates a crumpled, uneven doily from a museum-quality finished piece. You will need a foam blocking board or several layers of interlocking foam tiles, and a set of rustproof T-pins or blocking pins. Blocking wires are optional but helpful for keeping the outer edge smooth.
Starch or Blocking Spray: Liquid starch (diluted to about half strength with water) or a dedicated crochet blocking spray will stiffen and define the doily after it is pinned out. This step is entirely responsible for the crisp, open appearance of a finished lace piece.
Measuring Tape: Useful for checking your gauge and verifying the dimensions as you work.
Understanding the Stitch Vocabulary
This pattern uses standard crochet abbreviations common in American patterns. If you are used to UK terminology, note that what Americans call a single crochet (sc) is called a double crochet in UK patterns, and an American double crochet (dc) is a UK treble. Take a moment to review the stitches you will use before beginning.
Chain (ch): The foundation of almost all crochet work. Simply yarn over and pull through the loop on your hook.
Slip stitch (sl st): A joining stitch made by inserting the hook, yarning over, and pulling through both the loop on the work and the loop on the hook in one motion. Used to close rounds.
Single crochet (sc): Insert hook, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over again, pull through both loops.
Half double crochet (hdc): Yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through all three loops.
Double crochet (dc): Yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops.
Treble crochet (tr): Yarn over twice, insert hook, yarn over, pull up a loop, then work off two loops at a time three times.
Chain space (ch-sp): The space or arch formed by a chain within a pattern, used as a working space in subsequent rounds.
Picot: A small decorative loop, usually formed by chaining 3 or 4 and slip stitching into the first chain.
Gauge and Sizing
With size 10 thread and a 1.65mm (size 7 steel) hook, the finished doily should measure approximately 10 inches by 7 inches after blocking. Gauge in thread crochet is less rigidly enforced than in garment knitting, but if your work is coming out significantly larger, try a smaller hook. If it is pulling too tight, go up a hook size.
Step-by-Step Pattern Instructions
Foundation: Creating the Oval Base
The oval shape in crochet begins with a foundation chain rather than a magic ring or small center circle. This chain determines the length of the oval.
Round 1: Chain 18. Working into the back bump of the chain for a neater edge, single crochet in the 2nd chain from hook and in each of the next 15 chains (16 sc total along one side). In the last chain, work 3 single crochets (this curves around the end). Now work back along the opposite side of the foundation chain, working 1 single crochet into each of the remaining 15 loops across. At the opposite end, work 3 single crochets into the very first chain stitch to complete the curve. Join with a slip stitch to the first single crochet. You should have approximately 38 stitches around. Place a stitch marker in the first stitch of the round.
Round 2: Chain 3 (counts as first dc), work 1 dc in the same stitch. Work 1 dc in each of the next 15 stitches. In the three corner stitches at the end, work 2 dc in each stitch (this creates 6 dc in the curve to keep it smooth). Work 1 dc across the next 15 stitches. In the remaining three corner stitches at the other end, work 2 dc in each stitch. Join with a slip stitch to the top of the beginning chain-3. You will now have approximately 50 stitches.
Round 3: Chain 1, sc in same stitch. Chain 3, skip 2 stitches, sc in next stitch — repeat from * around, working extra sc and ch-3 arches as needed at the curves to keep the fabric lying flat. End by joining with a slip stitch to the first sc. You should have approximately 17 chain-3 arches along each long side and several at each end.
Building the Lace Pattern
Round 4: Slip stitch into the center of the first chain-3 space. Chain 3 (counts as dc), work 2 more dc into the same space (half-shell made). Chain 2, sc in next ch-3 space, chain 2, work 3 dc in the following ch-3 space — repeat from * around, ending with chain 2, sc in the last remaining space, chain 2, join with sl st to the top of beginning chain-3.
Round 5: Slip stitch to the top of the 3-dc group. Chain 4 (counts as dc + ch 1). Work 1 dc in the center dc of the 3-dc group, chain 1, 1 dc in the same stitch, chain 1 — this creates a small fan. Skip to next sc, chain 3, sc in next dc group, chain 3* — continue around. Join to 3rd chain of beginning ch-4.
Round 6: Work a round of chain-5 arches, placing 1 sc between each arch. Begin with slip stitch into the first ch-sp, chain 6, sc in next ch-sp, chain 5, sc in next ch-sp — repeat around. Join.
Round 7: Work 5 dc into each chain-5 arch (this creates full shells). Join with sl st.
Round 8: Slip stitch to center of first shell. Chain 5, sc in center of next shell — repeat around, creating a round of chain-5 arches again.
Round 9: In each chain-5 arch, work: 2 dc, chain 2, 2 dc (V-stitch). Join.
Round 10: Slip stitch to the ch-2 space of the first V-stitch. In the ch-2 sp, work: 2 dc, chain 3, 2 dc. Chain 2, sc in the space between V-stitches, chain 2 — repeat around. Join.
Round 11: Slip stitch to the ch-3 space of the first shell. Work: 3 dc, chain 3, 3 dc in each ch-3 space (larger shells). Between each shell, work: chain 3, sc, chain 3. Join.
Round 12: Slip stitch to the ch-3 space atop the shell. In ch-3 sp: 3 dc, chain 3, 3 dc. Chain 4, sc in the center of the chain-3 arch between shells, chain 4 — repeat around. Join.
The Outer Edging
Round 13: Slip stitch to the ch-3 space atop the shell. In ch-3 sp: 2 dc, chain 3, 2 dc, chain 3, 2 dc (triple fan). Chain 3, sc in chain-4 arch, chain 3, sc in next chain-4 arch, chain 3 — repeat around. Join.
Round 14 (Picot Edging): Slip stitch to the first ch-3 space. Sc in ch-3 sp, chain 4, sl st in the first chain of the ch-4 just made (picot formed), sc in next ch-3 sp, picot — repeat around each space and each arch, working a picot in every chain space around the entire outer edge. Join and fasten off.
Finishing the Doily
When you fasten off your thread, leave a tail of about 6 inches. Thread your tapestry needle and weave this tail through the back of nearby stitches in a zigzag pattern to lock it invisibly. Weave in any other ends from yarn joins the same way.
Resist the temptation to skip blocking. A fresh doily straight off the hook looks like a bunched, uneven tangle of thread. Blocking transforms it completely.
To block, prepare a solution of liquid starch and water at roughly half strength, or dampen the doily thoroughly with plain water and use a blocking spray. Soak the doily in the solution until it is fully saturated. Gently squeeze out excess moisture without wringing. Lay the doily on your blocking board and begin pinning from the center outward, stretching it gently into its oval shape. Pin each outer picot individually to the board, pulling each one outward to open up the lace pattern. Use your measuring tape to keep the dimensions even — you are aiming for approximately 10 by 7 inches, but you can stretch it somewhat larger or smaller depending on your preference.
Allow the doily to dry completely, which usually takes 24 hours. When you unpin it, the starch will hold the lace open in its full, crisp glory.
Tips for Success
Thread crochet is worked on a much finer scale than yarn crochet, and that means tension control is everything. Try to maintain an even, consistent tension throughout. If your hands tense up after a few rounds, set the work down and rest — tightening tension mid-project creates visible differences in the fabric.
Count your stitches at the end of every round. This takes only a moment and saves enormous frustration later. A doily that loses a stitch in round 4 will compound that error across every subsequent round, resulting in puckering or ruffling that no amount of blocking will fix.
If you want a deeper violet tone, look for threads labeled “medium violet” or “dark violet.” For a softer, more lavender effect, choose a thread labeled “light violet” or “soft lilac.” Both look beautiful in lace, but they create quite different moods.
Work in good light. Fine thread work is significantly harder in dim conditions, and straining to see your stitches will lead to errors and discomfort.
Ways to Use Your Finished Doily
The most natural use is as a table accent, but do not stop there. A blocked oval doily can be framed behind glass for wall art. It can be sewn onto a pillow cover as an appliqué. Several doilies stitched together create a delicate table runner. A single doily draped over a small lamp shade creates a gorgeous filtered glow when the lamp is lit (take care that the doily does not touch the bulb). You can also gift a finished doily in a simple frame as a housewarming or wedding present — it is one of those handmade gifts that people keep for decades.
Caring for Your Violet Doily
Cotton thread doilies are reasonably durable and can be hand-washed in cool water with a mild detergent. After washing, rinse thoroughly and re-block the doily to restore its shape. If the starch washes out, simply re-starch and re-pin. Over time, the violet color may fade slightly with frequent washing and sunlight exposure — this is natural and tends to produce a beautiful, soft antique effect.
Store your doily flat or rolled in acid-free tissue paper to prevent creasing. Avoid folding, which creates persistent crease lines that are difficult to remove even with re-blocking.
A Final Word
Creating an oval violet doily is one of those projects that teaches you patience and rewards you with something genuinely beautiful. Each round builds on the last, and somewhere around the tenth round you will notice the lace beginning to take on its full character — the open arches, the shell clusters, the delicate picot edge all coming together into a cohesive whole. That moment is one of the quiet joys of crochet, available to anyone willing to pick up a hook and some thread.
Take your time, enjoy the process, and do not worry if your first attempt is not perfect. Even an imperfect doily, when blocked and laid on a table, carries the warmth of something handmade. And the next one will be better. That is the nature of any craft: every project teaches you something the last one could not.
Happy crocheting.
