Coral Daisy Placemat and Napkin Ring Crochet Pattern: A Complete Guide to a Stunning Table Setting

There is something deeply satisfying about setting a table with handmade pieces. The time, care, and creativity woven into every stitch transform an ordinary meal into something worth remembering. If you have been looking for a crochet project that is both practical and breathtakingly beautiful, this coral daisy placemat and napkin ring pattern is exactly what you need. Whether you are an intermediate crocheter looking to level up your home décor game or a confident beginner eager for a rewarding challenge, this guide will walk you through everything you need to know to create a complete, coordinated table setting that looks like it belongs in a lifestyle magazine.

The coral colorway brings warmth and energy to any table. It pairs beautifully with natural wood surfaces, white ceramic dishes, linen tablecloths, and even bold jewel-toned accents. The daisy motif adds a botanical charm that works for spring brunches and summer dinners alike, but with the right yarn choice, it can feel cozy and inviting for fall and winter gatherings too. Let’s dive in.

Why You’ll Love This Pattern

Before we get into the materials and instructions, it helps to understand what makes this pattern special. The coral daisy design uses a combination of classic crochet techniques — a flat circular base, raised petal work, and joining rounds — to create a placemat that has texture, dimension, and visual interest. The napkin ring uses the same daisy motif scaled down to a small band, so your place settings feel cohesive and intentional.

This pattern is satisfying to work because you see results quickly. Each daisy motif comes together in just a few rounds, and once you have made one, you will find a rhythm that makes the rest feel effortless. The placemat typically uses a cluster of daisy motifs joined together, while the napkin ring features a single motif or a small strip of two or three daisies curved into a ring shape.

The finished pieces are also surprisingly durable. Cotton yarn, which is the recommended fiber for this project, is washable, holds its shape well, and stands up to the everyday use a placemat demands. Your hard work will last for years.

Materials You Will Need

Getting your supplies together before you start makes the crocheting process much smoother. Here is what you will need for one placemat and one matching napkin ring.

Yarn: Approximately 200 to 250 yards of worsted weight (size 4) cotton yarn in coral for the placemat, and about 30 to 40 yards for the napkin ring. You will also want a small amount of cream or white cotton yarn for the daisy centers, and optionally a small amount of yellow or golden yellow for the stamen effect in the center of each flower. 100% cotton is strongly recommended over acrylic for this project because it blocks beautifully, lies flat, and is food-safe in the sense that it does not off-gas or melt near warm plates.

Hook: A size 5mm (H/8) crochet hook works well with most worsted weight cotton yarns. If your tension tends to run tight, move up to a 5.5mm hook. If you crochet loosely, try a 4.5mm. The goal is a fabric that is firm enough to hold its shape as a placemat but not so stiff it feels like cardboard.

Notions: A yarn needle for weaving in ends, scissors, stitch markers (optional but helpful for keeping track of rounds), and a spray bottle with water and a blocking mat if you plan to wet-block your finished pieces. A ruler or measuring tape is also handy for checking your gauge and finished dimensions.

Understanding Gauge

Gauge matters more for placemats than it does for many other crochet projects because the flat, geometric nature of the piece makes any sizing inconsistency very obvious. For this pattern, you are aiming for approximately 14 single crochet stitches and 16 rows equaling 4 inches in a standard single crochet fabric with your chosen hook and yarn.

For the daisy motif specifically, each finished motif should measure approximately 4.5 inches across from petal tip to petal tip. If your motifs are coming out smaller, try going up a hook size. If they are coming out larger, drop down a hook size.

It is always worth making one test motif before committing to the full placemat, both to check your gauge and to practice the petal technique before it appears in your final piece.

Abbreviations and Stitch Guide

The following abbreviations are used throughout this pattern:

ch — chain, sl st — slip stitch, sc — single crochet, hdc — half double crochet, dc — double crochet, tr — treble crochet, sp — space, rep — repeat, sk — skip, MR — magic ring (also called magic circle), beg — beginning, st — stitch, rnd — round.

Special Stitch — Petal: The petals in this pattern are worked as follows: ch 1, sc into same stitch, hdc into next stitch, dc into next stitch, hdc into next stitch, sc into next stitch, sl st into next stitch. This creates a rounded, organic petal shape. The exact count of stitches per petal will depend on the round, so follow each petal instruction as written rather than memorizing the stitch count independently.

The Coral Daisy Motif (Make 7 for One Placemat)

The placemat is constructed from seven daisy motifs joined together in a classic hexagonal arrangement: one center motif surrounded by six outer motifs. This gives the finished placemat a roughly oval shape that is ideal for a standard place setting.

Round 1: Using cream or white yarn, make a magic ring. Ch 2 (counts as first dc), work 11 dc into the ring, join with sl st to top of ch-2. You should have 12 dc. Pull the tail of your magic ring firmly closed.

Round 2: Ch 1, sc in same st, ch 3, skip 1 st, (sc in next st, ch 3, skip 1 st) 5 times, join with sl st to first sc. You now have 6 ch-3 spaces, which will become the base for your petals.

Round 3 (Petals): Change to coral yarn. Into the first ch-3 space, work (sl st, ch 1, hdc, dc, tr, dc, hdc, ch 1, sl st). This is one petal. Repeat into each of the remaining 5 ch-3 spaces. You will have 6 petals total. Join with sl st to first sl st at the beginning of the round. Fasten off coral yarn.

Round 4 (Behind the Petals): Rejoin cream or white yarn to the sc stitch from Round 2 that sits between two petals. Working behind the petals you have already made, ch 4, (sc in next sc from Round 2, ch 4) 5 times, join with sl st to first st. You now have 6 ch-4 spaces sitting behind the flower.

Round 5 (Outer Petals): Change to coral yarn. Into the first ch-4 space, work (sl st, ch 1, hdc, dc, tr, tr, dc, hdc, ch 1, sl st). This creates a longer outer petal. Repeat into each of the remaining 5 ch-4 spaces for a total of 6 outer petals. Join and fasten off.

Round 6 (Joining Round): Rejoin coral yarn to the tip of any outer petal (the point between the two tr stitches). Ch 5, sc into the tip of the next petal, ch 5, repeat around until you have connected all 6 petal tips with ch-5 bridges. Join with sl st to first st. Do not fasten off.

Round 7: Sc evenly around the entire outer edge of the motif, working 5 sc into each ch-5 bridge and 1 sc into each sc at the petal tips. This creates a neat, firm outer edge and sets up the joining points for when you connect your motifs together. Join with sl st to first sc. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Your finished motif should be a full, dimensional daisy with two layers of petals and a neat circular outer edge. Make 7 of these motifs total before moving on to the joining step.

Joining the Motifs

Lay your seven motifs out on a flat surface in the hexagonal arrangement before you begin joining them. Place one motif in the center and surround it with the remaining six, with the edges touching. This arrangement gives the placemat its finished shape.

The joining method used here is a flat slip stitch join, which creates a clean seam on the wrong side of the work. Hold two motifs with wrong sides facing outward (right sides facing each other) and slip stitch through both corresponding outer edge stitches along the shared side. Work along the natural flat sections between the petals, which is where the ch-5 bridges were, as this is where the motifs naturally align. You will typically join along 5 to 7 stitches per shared edge, depending on how your particular tension worked out.

Once all six outer motifs are joined to the center motif, you will have small triangular gaps at each junction where three motifs meet. These can be filled with a small decorative element if you like — a single chain stitch flower center worked into the gap is a lovely finishing touch — or you can simply work a few sc stitches across the gap when you work the border to close it up neatly.

The Placemat Border

The border pulls the whole piece together and gives it a polished, professional look. With the right side of the joined placemat facing you, rejoin coral yarn to any outer edge stitch.

Border Round 1: Sc evenly around the entire outer perimeter of the joined placemat, working increases at any outward corner points (typically 3 sc into the corner stitch) and decreases or skip stitches at any inward corner points between motifs to keep the edge flat. Join with sl st to first sc.

Border Round 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in each sc around, working (dc, ch 1, dc) at each outward corner. Join with sl st to top of ch-3.

Border Round 3: Sc in each dc around, working the picot stitch at each outward point for a decorative edge. The picot is worked as follows: sc into the stitch, ch 3, sl st back into the first of those 3 chains, sc into the next stitch. This gives each petal tip on the outer border a small pointed accent that echoes the daisy motif beautifully.

Join with sl st to first sc, fasten off, and weave in all remaining ends.

Blocking Your Placemat

Blocking is the step that takes your finished piece from “handmade” to “heirloom.” Wet your finished placemat thoroughly — either by soaking it in cool water for a few minutes or by spritzing it generously with a spray bottle. Gently squeeze out the excess water without wringing or twisting. Lay the damp placemat on your blocking mat and use pins or blocking wires to ease it into a flat, even shape. Coax each petal into its final position, making sure the daisy motifs are fully opened and the outer edge lies smooth and flat.

Allow the placemat to dry completely before removing the pins. This usually takes 12 to 24 hours depending on your humidity levels. Once dry, the placemat will hold its shape beautifully through washing and everyday use.

The Coral Daisy Napkin Ring

The napkin ring uses a single daisy motif worked slightly more compactly, or a small strip of two motifs joined side by side, curved into a ring and seamed at the ends. The instructions below are for a single-motif napkin ring that fits a standard rolled cloth napkin.

Work Rounds 1 through 5 of the daisy motif exactly as written above. Rather than working Round 6 and 7 as a full round, you will instead work a short band.

After completing Round 5, rejoin cream or white yarn to the base of the motif (at the back, between petals). Ch 8. Turn and work sc back across the 8 chains. Continue in rows of sc until your band measures approximately 4 to 4.5 inches in length — this is the section that wraps around and joins at the back to form the ring shape. The exact length may need to be adjusted depending on how thick your napkins are; test the fit as you work.

Once the band is long enough, fold it into a ring shape with the daisy motif sitting on the front. Seam the short ends of the band together using a yarn needle and a whip stitch or mattress stitch, being careful to keep the seam tight and tidy. Fasten off and weave in all ends.

The finished napkin ring has the daisy sitting prominently on the front, with the simple band creating a clean, understated look on the back. If you want to make the napkin ring slightly more decorative, you can add a small border of sc and picot stitches around the outer edge of the band, matching the border on your placemat.

Tips for Success

Working with cotton yarn for the first time can feel different from working with wool or acrylic. Cotton has almost no stretch, which means your tension needs to be deliberately consistent throughout the project. Take breaks if your hand starts to feel tense, and avoid gripping the yarn too tightly. Many crocheters find that cotton gets easier after the first motif or two, once they have adjusted their grip and rhythm.

Keep your ends short when fastening off — about 4 to 5 inches is enough to weave in securely without adding unnecessary bulk to the piece. Use a sharp-tipped yarn needle and weave the tails back and forth through several stitches in different directions to ensure they won’t work loose over time.

If you want to make a full set of placemats and napkin rings for a table of four or six, working assembly-line style (making all your motifs first before joining any of them) is the most efficient approach. It also ensures your motifs are consistent in size and tension since they are all made in the same session.

Caring for Your Finished Pieces

These placemats and napkin rings are fully machine washable, which is one of the great practical advantages of using cotton yarn. Turn them inside out or place them in a mesh laundry bag and wash on a gentle cycle with cool or lukewarm water. Lay flat to dry — this helps them maintain their shape much better than tumble drying, which can cause cotton to shrink slightly or distort the motif shapes.

If your pieces lose a little of their crispness after several washes, a light spritz of water and a gentle reshaping by hand while damp will restore them beautifully.

Variations and Personalization Ideas

One of the most enjoyable things about this pattern is how easy it is to customize. Swapping the coral for a different color opens up entirely new table setting palettes — dusty sage with cream centers feels fresh and botanical, dusty rose with golden centers is romantic and vintage-inspired, and a deep navy with white centers creates a striking, graphic look perfect for a modern table.

You can also play with the yarn fiber for different occasions. A linen-cotton blend adds subtle texture and a slightly more formal look. A bamboo cotton blend has a beautiful drape and sheen that catches the light. For a holiday table, using a yarn with a very subtle metallic thread woven through it gives the daisy motifs a festive shimmer without looking overdone.

If you want to add a monogram or initial to your napkin rings, a small piece of embroidery on the band section — worked in a contrasting color of thread after the crochet is complete — is a charming and personalized touch that also makes these a wonderful handmade gift.

Final Thoughts

This coral daisy placemat and napkin ring crochet pattern is the kind of project that reminds you why you fell in love with crochet in the first place. It is creative, practical, and filled with small moments of satisfaction as each motif blooms into shape under your hook. The finished table setting has a handcrafted warmth that no store-bought alternative can replicate, and every time you set the table with these pieces, you will feel a quiet pride in what your hands have made.

Whether you are making a set for your own home, gifting it to a new homeowner, or creating a collection for a summer gathering or holiday celebration, these coral daisy placemats and napkin rings are sure to bring beauty and joy to the table. Happy crocheting.