Learn How to Crochet Herringbone Stitch with Our Step-by-Step Tutorial! 🧶📹

If you’ve been crocheting for a while and you’re looking for a stitch that will genuinely make people stop and ask, “How did you do that?” — the herringbone stitch is your answer. With its distinctive diagonal lines that mirror the classic herringbone fabric pattern, this stitch creates a dense, beautifully textured fabric that works up faster than you might expect. Whether you want to make cozy blankets, stylish scarves, trendy bags, or warm sweaters, the herringbone crochet stitch delivers a polished, professional look that never goes out of style.

In this complete tutorial, we’ll walk you through everything you need to know — from the supplies you’ll need, to understanding the technique, to troubleshooting common mistakes. By the end, you’ll have a reliable new stitch in your crochet toolkit that you’ll reach for again and again.

What Is the Herringbone Stitch in Crochet?

The herringbone stitch gets its name from the V-shaped pattern it creates, which resembles the skeleton of a herring fish — the same iconic zigzag pattern you see in herringbone tweed jackets and tile floors. In crochet, this pattern is achieved by modifying the standard half double crochet (hdc) or double crochet (dc) stitch in a way that creates a subtle diagonal texture.

There are two main versions: the herringbone half double crochet (hbhdc) and the herringbone double crochet (hbdc). The half double crochet version is the most popular because it’s slightly easier to learn and creates a beautifully compact, reversible fabric. The double crochet version works up a bit taller and has a slightly looser, more open texture.

Both versions involve pulling your yarn through loops in a different order than you would with a standard stitch. It sounds more complicated than it is — and once your hands get used to the motion, it flows naturally and quickly.

Why Learn the Herringbone Stitch?

Before we dive into the how-to, let’s talk about the why. There are dozens of beautiful crochet stitches out there, so what makes the herringbone worth learning?

The herringbone stitch is incredibly versatile. Because it creates a dense, flat fabric, it’s ideal for projects that need structure — think tote bags, placemats, and washcloths — but it’s also soft and flexible enough to make wearable items like hats, cardigans, and shawls. The diagonal lines add visual interest without requiring complex colorwork or intricate pattern reading, making it a fantastic middle-ground stitch for crafters who have outgrown basic stitches but aren’t yet ready to tackle advanced techniques.

It’s also a great stitch to know if you love modern, geometric aesthetics. The herringbone pattern is perennially on-trend in home décor and fashion, which means anything you make with this stitch will look current and intentional.

Finally, there’s the satisfying rhythm of it. Many crocheters find that once they get into the groove of the herringbone motion, it becomes almost meditative — and because the stitch works up quickly, you get the reward of watching your project grow at a gratifying pace.

Supplies You’ll Need

Getting started is simple. Here’s what to gather before you begin:

Yarn: For learning purposes, choose a smooth, light-colored worsted weight yarn (also labeled as #4 medium weight). Light colors make it much easier to see your stitches clearly. Avoid fuzzy or textured yarns until you’re comfortable with the technique.

Hook: A size 5.0 mm (H/8) or 5.5 mm (I/9) crochet hook pairs well with worsted weight yarn. Check the label of your yarn for the recommended hook size, but going up half a size can give you a slightly looser, easier-to-work tension while you’re learning.

Scissors and a yarn needle: You’ll need scissors to cut your yarn and a tapestry or yarn needle to weave in your ends when you’re done.

Stitch markers (optional): These are helpful for marking the beginning of your rows while you’re learning, so you don’t accidentally skip stitches or lose count.

Understanding Key Terms

This tutorial uses standard US crochet terms. Here’s a quick reference if you need a refresher:

Ch — chain stitch. The foundation of almost every crochet project.

Sl st — slip stitch. Used to join rounds or move yarn without adding height.

Hdc — half double crochet. Taller than a single crochet, shorter than a double crochet.

Hbhdc — herringbone half double crochet. The modified version we’re learning today.

Yo — yarn over. Wrapping the yarn over your hook from back to front.

Sp — space. The gap created between stitches.

Creating Your Foundation Chain

Every flat crochet project starts with a foundation chain, and the herringbone stitch is no different.

For practice, chain 21. This gives you 20 working stitches once you account for the turning chain. If you’re following a specific pattern, the foundation chain number will be given to you.

When you make your foundation chain, keep your tension even and consistent. Chains that are too tight will make it difficult to insert your hook, and chains that are too loose will make your edges look sloppy. If you tend to crochet tightly, try going up one hook size just for the foundation chain.

How to Crochet the Herringbone Half Double Crochet (hbhdc)

This is the star of the show. Follow these steps carefully for your first row, and don’t be discouraged if it takes a few tries — the motion becomes intuitive quickly.

Step 1: Set Up Your Row

After completing your foundation chain of 21, you’ll begin your first row. Chain 2 to turn. Note: some patterns treat this turning chain as the first stitch; others don’t. For this tutorial, the turning chain does NOT count as a stitch.

Step 2: Yarn Over and Insert Your Hook

Yarn over (wrap the yarn over your hook from back to front), then insert your hook into the third chain from the hook. You should now have three loops on your hook: the original loop that was already there, plus the yarn over, plus the loop from inserting into the chain.

Step 3: Pull Through the Chain

Pull your yarn through the chain stitch only. You now have three loops on your hook.

Step 4: The Key Difference — Pull Through the Back Loop

Here’s where the herringbone magic happens. Instead of yarning over and pulling through all three loops at once (which is what you’d do for a standard hdc), you’re going to yarn over, then pull through only the back loop of the three loops on your hook.

To identify the back loop: when you look at the three loops on your hook, the one farthest from you is the back loop. Bring your yarn over the hook, then guide the hook through just that back loop, pulling the yarn through it. You now have two loops on your hook.

Step 5: Complete the Stitch

Yarn over one more time, and pull through both remaining loops on your hook. Your herringbone half double crochet is complete!

That one stitch might have felt a little awkward, but here’s the secret: the more you do it, the faster and smoother it gets. Work one hbhdc into each chain across your foundation. At the end of your row, you should have 20 stitches.

Working Subsequent Rows

Once you finish the first row, it’s time to turn your work and start building your fabric.

Chain 2 to turn (remember, this does not count as a stitch). Then work one hbhdc into each stitch across the row, making sure to work into both loops of the top of each stitch from the previous row unless your pattern specifies otherwise. At the end of the row, you should again have 20 stitches.

Repeat this process for as many rows as your project requires. As you work, you’ll begin to see the beautiful diagonal lines of the herringbone pattern emerging. The lines slant in one direction across each row, and because rows alternate direction (since you’re turning your work), the overall effect creates that classic herringbone zigzag.

After about four or five rows, pause and look at your swatch. The pattern should be clearly visible. If something looks off, don’t panic — we’ll troubleshoot common issues below.

How to Crochet the Herringbone Double Crochet (hbdc)

If you’d like to try the double crochet version, the concept is similar but uses an extra yarn over at the beginning.

Step 1: Chain 3 to turn (this does not count as a stitch in this tutorial).

Step 2: Yarn over, insert your hook into the first stitch.

Step 3: Yarn over again and pull through the stitch only. You should have four loops on your hook.

Step 4: Yarn over and pull through the back two loops only (not all four). You now have three loops on your hook.

Step 5: Yarn over and pull through the back two loops again. You now have two loops on your hook.

Step 6: Yarn over and pull through both remaining loops to complete the stitch.

The herringbone double crochet creates a slightly taller fabric with a more open texture, which is lovely for garments and decorative pieces.

Counting Your Stitches

One of the most common stumbling blocks for crocheters learning a new stitch is losing count of stitches. With the herringbone stitch, the top of each stitch can look a bit different than what you’re used to, especially as a beginner.

Here’s a tip: at the end of every row, count your stitches before moving on. The top of a herringbone half double crochet has two loops you can identify — the same V-shape as any other hdc. Count each V as one stitch. If you end up with more or fewer stitches than you started with, check whether you accidentally worked into the turning chain or skipped the last stitch of the row. Both are common beginner mistakes and easy to fix once you know to look for them.

Tension Tips for a Beautiful Fabric

Tension — how tightly or loosely you hold your yarn and pull your stitches — makes a significant difference in the finished look of your herringbone fabric. Too tight, and the fabric will be stiff, hard to work, and may pucker. Too loose, and it will look floppy and uneven.

To find your ideal tension, practice on a swatch and measure it against the gauge given in your pattern. If you’re just experimenting without a pattern, aim for a fabric that feels firm but still has a little drape — it should fold easily without feeling like cardboard, but also not flop over with no body.

If you’re crocheting too tightly, try consciously relaxing your grip on the yarn or go up half a hook size. If you’re crocheting too loosely, try holding the yarn with a slightly firmer grip or drop down half a hook size.

Troubleshooting Common Mistakes

The herringbone pattern isn’t showing up clearly. This usually means you’re either not pulling through the back loop correctly in step 4, or you’re accidentally doing a standard hdc. Slow down and watch your hook placement very carefully. It helps to work under good lighting so you can clearly see which loop you’re inserting into.

My stitch count keeps changing. Double-check that you’re not working into the turning chain, and make sure you’re working a stitch into every stitch at the end of the row — it’s easy to miss the last stitch because it sits right up against the turning chain.

The edges of my fabric are uneven or wavy. This is usually a tension issue. Try to keep your tension consistent across the entire row, paying special attention to the first and last stitches.

The stitches feel very tight and hard to work. This is extremely common when learning. Make sure your foundation chain isn’t too tight, and consider going up a hook size temporarily until the motion becomes more comfortable.

Project Ideas Using the Herringbone Stitch

Now that you know the stitch, let’s talk about what to make with it!

A classic first project is a small dishcloth or washcloth. Work it in cotton yarn for a practical, beautiful kitchen or bathroom addition. The dense fabric of the hbhdc is perfect for this, and a small square lets you practice the stitch without a huge time commitment.

From there, consider a cozy infinity scarf. Cast on enough stitches to give you the width you want, work in herringbone until you have a long rectangle, then seam the ends together. In a chunky yarn with a warm color, this makes a stunning winter accessory.

Tote bags are another fantastic application. The structured fabric holds its shape beautifully, and the geometric pattern gives the bag a designer look. Line it with fabric for added durability.

For the more adventurous, herringbone stitch baby blankets are incredibly popular on crafting platforms like Ravelry and Pinterest. The pattern is visually appealing, the fabric is soft and cozy when worked in appropriate yarn, and the blanket works up quickly enough to finish before a baby shower. Just make sure to choose a yarn that’s machine washable for any baby items!

If you’d like to challenge yourself with a wearable, try a herringbone beanie or slouchy hat. The stitch creates a stretchy, form-fitting fabric when worked in the round that suits headwear perfectly.

Working the Herringbone Stitch in the Round

Many projects — hats, baskets, bags — are worked in the round rather than in flat rows. The good news is that the herringbone stitch adapts beautifully to working in the round.

When working in the round, you won’t turn your work at the end of each round, which means the diagonal lines of the herringbone will consistently slant in the same direction all the way around. This creates a subtle spiral effect that many crocheters find even more beautiful than the flat version.

To work in the round, start with a magic ring or a foundation chain joined into a ring with a slip stitch. Work your hbhdc stitches around the ring, join with a slip stitch at the end of the round, and continue building up your rounds. You may need to increase stitches in early rounds (as with a hat crown) — your pattern will guide you through the specifics.

Caring for Herringbone Stitch Projects

Because the herringbone stitch creates such a dense fabric, it holds its shape very well over time and with repeated washing. To keep your finished projects looking their best, always check the care instructions on your yarn label. Most acrylic yarns are machine washable, while natural fibers like wool may require hand washing or dry cleaning.

When blocking a herringbone stitch project — particularly a garment or shawl — wet blocking works beautifully to even out the stitches and open up the fabric slightly. Soak your item in cool water, gently squeeze out excess moisture (don’t wring), then lay it flat on a blocking mat and pin it to the desired dimensions. Allow it to dry completely before unpinning.

Final Thoughts: Keep Practicing and Have Fun

Learning a new crochet stitch always comes with a bit of a learning curve, and the herringbone stitch is no exception. But here’s what thousands of crocheters who have learned it before you will tell you: the moment it clicks, it really clicks. Suddenly the motion flows from your hands without thinking, the pattern emerges almost like magic, and you wonder why you ever hesitated to try it.

Give yourself the gift of patience during the learning process. Work slowly. Look at your hook placement at each step. Count your stitches at the end of every row. And when something goes wrong — because it will, and that’s completely normal — just pull back a few stitches, identify what went sideways, and try again.

The herringbone stitch is one of those techniques that pays you back generously for every bit of effort you put in. The finished fabric is genuinely gorgeous, the projects you can make with it are endlessly varied, and the sense of accomplishment when you finish your first herringbone project is deeply satisfying.

So pull out your yarn, grab your hook, and get started. You’ve got everything you need to create something beautiful. Happy crocheting! 🧶