Knotted Knit Bathroom Rug — Crafty Staci

There is something quietly satisfying about walking into a bathroom and feeling the soft, chunky texture of a handmade rug beneath your feet. It grounds the room. It tells a story. And when you made it yourself, every single knot carries a little piece of your time and creativity. That is exactly the spirit behind this Knotted Knit Bathroom Rug, a pattern that has become one of my most-loved projects here at Crafty Staci.

Whether you are a seasoned knitter looking for a weekend project that delivers big results fast, or a beginner who wants something tactile and rewarding without too many complicated techniques, this rug is for you. It combines the satisfying bulk of chunky yarn with a knotted texture that gives the finished piece a beautiful, almost sculptural quality. And because it lies flat in the bathroom, stays put underfoot, and holds up beautifully to moisture and foot traffic, it is as practical as it is pretty.

Let me walk you through everything you need to know — materials, method, care tips, and a few tricks I have picked up along the way.

Why I Love Making Handmade Bath Rugs

Before we get into the pattern itself, I want to take a moment to talk about why handmade bathroom rugs deserve more attention in the crafting world. Most of us focus our knitting energy on sweaters, blankets, hats, and socks. The bathroom rarely gets the handmade treatment. But think about it — the bathroom is a space you visit multiple times a day. A beautifully crafted rug transforms a functional room into something that feels intentional and curated.

Store-bought bath rugs, even the expensive ones, often flatten within a few months. The fibers mat down, the edges curl, and suddenly your once-plush rug looks tired and worn. When you knit your own rug using sturdy cotton or a cotton-blend yarn, the structure holds up far better over time. You also get to choose the exact color, size, and texture to match your bathroom decor in a way that no big-box store can offer.

The knotted design in this particular pattern adds an extra layer of dimension. Rather than a flat, woven surface, the knots create little bobbles and bumps across the fabric that feel luxurious underfoot and dry quickly because of the extra air circulation built into the structure. It is a clever design detail that serves a real purpose.

Materials You Will Need

Getting your materials right makes a significant difference in how your finished rug looks and feels. Here is what I recommend for this project.

Yarn: You will want a worsted to bulky weight cotton yarn, or a cotton-acrylic blend. Pure cotton is ideal for bathroom projects because it absorbs moisture, is machine washable, and does not hold onto odors. I typically use about 300 to 400 yards for a standard bath rug measuring approximately 20 by 30 inches. If you want a larger rug, plan for an extra 150 yards per additional foot of length. Some of my favorite yarn choices for this project include Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton, Paintbox Simply DK in doubled strands, or Cascade Yarns Ultra Pima. All of these wash beautifully and come in a wide range of colors.

Needles: For a knotted rug with good structure and a slight firmness underfoot, I recommend using US size 10 (6mm) needles if your yarn is on the lighter side, or US size 13 (9mm) needles for a thicker, bulkier yarn. The fabric should feel dense and sturdy, not floppy. If your gauge is running loose, go down a needle size.

Other supplies: A yarn needle for weaving in ends, scissors, and a ruler or measuring tape. If you are planning to add a non-slip backing — which I highly recommend — you will also need a piece of non-skid rug backing fabric cut to size, a tapestry needle, and some coordinating thread.

A Note on Gauge

Gauge matters more than many knitters realize when it comes to rugs. A rug that is too loose will not lie flat and may stretch unevenly over time. A rug that is too tight will be stiff and uncomfortable underfoot.

For this pattern, you are aiming for approximately 12 stitches and 16 rows over 4 inches in stockinette stitch using your chosen yarn and needles. Swatch before you begin. I know, I know — swatching feels like a detour when you just want to start the project. But spending ten minutes on a swatch will save you from knitting an entire rug that turns out two inches too narrow or five inches too short.

The Knotted Knit Bathroom Rug Pattern

Now for the main event. This pattern uses a combination of basic knit and purl stitches along with a simple slip-knot technique that creates the dimensional texture on the surface of the rug. It is worked flat on straight or circular needles.

Cast On: Using your chosen yarn and needles, cast on 54 stitches for a standard 20-inch-wide rug. For a narrower runner style, cast on 36 stitches. For a wider rug, cast on 72 stitches. Always cast on in multiples of 9 for this pattern to keep the knot placement even.

Rows 1 and 2 (Base Setup): Knit across every stitch on both rows. This creates a clean, stable edge at the base of your rug and keeps the cast-on edge from curling up.

Row 3 (Right Side — Knot Row): This is where the magic happens. K4, make knot, K5 and repeat this sequence to the end of the row. To make the knot: with yarn in front, insert your needle into the next stitch as if to purl, wrap the yarn around the needle three times and draw all loops through, then slip these loops back onto the left needle and knit them together through the back loop. You have just created one raised, textured knot on the surface of the fabric. It takes a moment to get the hang of the first few, but after that it becomes rhythmic and meditative.

Row 4 (Wrong Side): Purl across all stitches.

Rows 5 and 6: Knit across all stitches on both rows. These plain knit rows give the knots room to breathe and keep the rug from becoming too heavily textured to lie flat.

Row 7 (Right Side — Offset Knot Row): K8, make knot, K1 and repeat to end of row. By offsetting the knots on alternating knot rows, you create a staggered, all-over texture pattern that looks polished and intentional rather than grid-like.

Row 8 (Wrong Side): Purl across.

These 8 rows form your complete pattern repeat. Continue repeating rows 1 through 8 — or more precisely, repeat rows 3 through 8 after your initial setup — until your rug measures approximately 28 to 30 inches in length, ending on a wrong side purl row.

Bind Off: On the next right side row, knit across and bind off loosely using a standard bind off or a stretchy bind off method. You want the bound-off edge to match the flexibility of your cast-on edge. If your bind off tends to run tight, try binding off on a needle one or two sizes larger than the one you used for the body of the rug.

Finishing Your Rug

Finishing is where your rug goes from “almost done” to truly beautiful. Do not skip this step.

Weave in your ends carefully and securely. For a bathroom rug that will be washed frequently, I recommend weaving each end in at least two different directions and giving a little tug to make sure nothing will unravel in the wash.

Block your rug by soaking it in cool water for about 15 minutes, gently pressing out the excess water without wringing or twisting, and then laying it flat on a clean towel or blocking mat in the shape you want. Smooth out any uneven edges, coax the corners to be crisp, and let it dry completely before use. Cotton rugs take about 24 hours to dry fully, sometimes longer depending on the thickness of your yarn. Blocking makes a dramatic difference — your rug will lie beautifully flat and the knot texture will bloom and become more defined.

Non-slip backing: This is my strongest recommendation for any handmade rug used in a wet area. A knitted fabric, no matter how tightly constructed, will slide on tile or wood floors when damp. Cut a piece of non-skid rug backing to match the dimensions of your finished rug, then use a tapestry needle and coordinating thread to whipstitch the backing in place around all four edges. Some crafters use iron-on rug backing, but I prefer the stitched method because it holds more securely through repeated washing. You can find non-skid rug backing at most fabric stores or online for just a few dollars per yard.

Customizing Your Knotted Knit Rug

One of the best things about this pattern is how easily it adapts to your personal style and your bathroom’s color palette.

Color: I have made this rug in everything from crisp white to deep navy to warm terracotta. A single solid color lets the texture of the knots take center stage, which is stunning in its simplicity. Two-color versions, worked by changing yarn every few rows, create a striped or gradient effect that adds another layer of visual interest. If you want to try colorwork, keep it subtle — a tonal palette where both colors are in the same color family tends to work better for rugs than high-contrast combinations, which can sometimes make a small bathroom feel visually busy.

Size: As mentioned above, this pattern scales easily. A small accent rug in front of a pedestal sink might be 14 by 20 inches. A full bath mat needs to be at least 20 by 30 inches. A runner for a long, narrow bathroom could be 18 by 48 inches or longer. Just adjust your cast-on stitch count in multiples of 9 and continue repeating the pattern until you reach your desired length.

Yarn weight: If you prefer a thinner, more refined rug, use a lighter-weight cotton yarn and smaller needles. The rug will take longer to complete and will have a more delicate texture. If you want maximum plushness, double your yarn — hold two strands together as one — and go up to a size 15 or 17 needle. This creates an extremely chunky, ultra-cushioned surface that feels like a cloud underfoot.

Caring for Your Handmade Rug

Proper care will keep your knotted knit rug looking beautiful for years. The good news is that cotton yarn is wonderfully low maintenance.

Machine wash your rug in cold or warm water on a gentle cycle. Use a mild detergent and avoid bleach, which can break down cotton fibers over time and cause yellowing. Wash your rug alone or with similar colors the first few times in case of any minor color bleeding.

For drying, a low-heat tumble dry works well for cotton rugs and can actually help fluff up the knot texture. If you have concerns about shrinkage, lay it flat to dry instead. Reshaping it while damp, as you did during the initial blocking, will keep it looking neat and flat.

Shake your rug outdoors periodically to remove any loose debris, and rotate it occasionally if it sits in front of a high-traffic area like a shower or bathtub. With basic care, a cotton knit rug can last for many years.

Troubleshooting Common Issues

My rug is curling at the edges. This is usually a gauge issue — your fabric may be too loose. Try going down a needle size, or add a border of garter stitch (knitting every row) along the sides and edges of the rug, which naturally resists curling.

My knots are not standing up. Make sure you are wrapping the yarn three full times when creating the knot and drawing all loops through before slipping them back to the left needle. If your yarn is very smooth and slippery, the knots may need a gentle tug after knitting to pop them to the right side of the fabric.

The rug feels too stiff. If you went down too many needle sizes in pursuit of firmness, your rug can end up board-like rather than pleasantly dense. Wash and block it — this softens the fabric considerably. If it is still too stiff after washing, it may simply need a few weeks of regular use to break in.

My rug stretched in the wash. Cotton does not typically stretch dramatically in the wash, but it can if it was knitted at a very loose gauge. Washing in cold water and laying flat to dry — rather than hanging the rug, which can pull it out of shape — prevents most stretching issues.

Final Thoughts from Crafty Staci

Making your own bathroom rug is one of those small acts of craft that delivers outsized reward. The project is achievable in a weekend, the materials are affordable, and the result is something you will use every single day. When someone visits your home and compliments the rug, you get to say, “I made that.” There is nothing quite like that moment.

The knotted texture in this design is what sets it apart from a basic garter stitch rug or a simple seed stitch mat. That extra dimension — those little raised knots scattered across the surface — elevates it from functional to artful. It is also endlessly customizable, so you can make a version for every bathroom in your home, in every color that speaks to you.

If you make this rug, I would absolutely love to see it. Tag me on Instagram or share your finished photo in our community group. Seeing your makes is genuinely one of the best parts of running this blog, and the rug community here never fails to inspire me with the color choices and creative variations you bring to each pattern.

Happy knitting, and happy crafting. May your bathroom floors always be soft, your yarn always be on sale, and your knots always stand up proud.

Have questions about the pattern? Drop them in the comments below and I will do my best to answer. You can also find more free patterns, tutorials, and crafting inspiration right here at Crafty Staci.