Knit Your Own Bathmat – FREE Knitting Pattern
There is something deeply satisfying about stepping out of a warm shower onto something you made yourself. A handknitted bathmat brings texture, colour, and a quiet kind of pride to one of the most overlooked spaces in your home. Better yet, it is one of those projects that looks impressively complex but is genuinely accessible to anyone who has mastered basic knitting stitches. Whether you are a beginner looking for your first functional home project or an experienced knitter searching for a quick and rewarding make, this free bathmat knitting pattern has everything you need to get started today.
In this post you will find a full free pattern, material recommendations, tips for customising the size and colour, and plenty of guidance to help you knit a mat that will last for years.
Why Knit a Bathmat?
Before we dive into the pattern itself, it is worth taking a moment to appreciate why a knitted bathmat is such a brilliant project. For one thing, cotton yarn is inexpensive and widely available. Unlike a shawl or a sweater, a bathmat does not need to fit anyone, which removes one of the most stressful elements of knitting. The fabric is worked flat, in rows, which keeps the technique simple. And the end result is genuinely useful — something that gets used every single day.
Handmade bathmats also make wonderful gifts. They are personalised, practical, and far more thoughtful than anything you could pick up at a supermarket. A bathmat in someone’s favourite colour, knitted with care, is the kind of present people keep and remember.
There is also an environmental dimension worth considering. When you knit your own bathmat from natural cotton or recycled yarn, you sidestep the synthetic microplastics shed by many commercially produced mats. Cotton knitted fabric is absorbent, washable, and biodegradable. It is a small but meaningful choice.
Materials You Will Need
Getting the materials right makes a significant difference to the final result. Here is what you will need for this pattern.
Yarn: You will need approximately 400–500 grams of worsted weight or chunky cotton yarn. Pure cotton is the ideal choice for a bathmat because it is absorbent, durable, and stands up beautifully to repeated washing. Look for 100% cotton yarn labelled as DK, worsted, or bulky. Some knitters also love to use a cotton-acrylic blend, which adds a little stretch and bounce to the fabric. Avoid wool for bathmats — it tends to felt when washed in hot water and does not dry quickly enough for bathroom use. A good colour choice for a first bathmat is something neutral like natural ecru, soft grey, or classic white, though nothing stops you from going bold.
Needles: This pattern is worked on 6mm (US size 10) knitting needles. If you are using a chunkier yarn, you may want to go up to 7mm or 8mm. Straight needles work perfectly well, but circular needles also make it easy to hold the growing weight of the mat as you work.
Other supplies: A tapestry needle for weaving in ends, a measuring tape, and scissors. That is genuinely everything you need.
Gauge: Approximately 14 stitches and 20 rows to 10cm (4 inches) in seed stitch using 6mm needles and worsted weight cotton. Gauge is less critical for a bathmat than for a garment, but if your mat is coming up much smaller or larger than expected, adjust your needle size accordingly.
Finished size: Approximately 50cm x 70cm (20 inches x 28 inches). This is a standard bath-sized mat. Instructions for adjusting the size are included later in this post.
A Note on Stitch Choice
This pattern uses seed stitch as the main fabric. Seed stitch — also called moss stitch in some traditions — is created by alternating knit and purl stitches across each row, then reversing them on the following row so that knits sit above purls and purls sit above knits. The result is a wonderfully bumpy, textured fabric that lies perfectly flat without any blocking. This is important for a bathmat, since stocking stitch would curl at the edges and create a tripping hazard.
Seed stitch also has a practical advantage: all those raised bumps create a slightly grippy surface underfoot, which adds to the mat’s safety and comfort. The texture catches the light beautifully as well, giving your finished mat a handcrafted look that no mass-produced product can replicate.
If you would prefer an entirely garter stitch (knit every row) version, that works equally well and is slightly easier for absolute beginners. The fabric will be stretchier and a little thicker, and you may need slightly more yarn.
The Free Bathmat Knitting Pattern
Abbreviations
k — knit
p — purl
CO — cast on
BO — bind off (cast off)
RS — right side
WS — wrong side
rep — repeat
st(s) — stitch(es)
Pattern Instructions
Step 1: Cast On
Using 6mm needles and your chosen worsted weight cotton yarn, cast on 72 stitches. A long-tail cast on is recommended because it creates a neat, firm edge that holds its shape well. If you are not familiar with the long-tail cast on, a simple backward loop or knitted cast on will also work.
Step 2: Border Setup
The first and last four rows of this mat use a simple garter stitch border to create a tidy frame. This helps the mat lie flat and gives it a polished, finished appearance.
Rows 1–4: Knit every stitch across.
Step 3: Main Body in Seed Stitch
Now you will begin the seed stitch section that forms the main body of the mat.
Row 1 (RS): K4, k1, p1; rep from to last 4 sts, k4.
Row 2 (WS): K4, p1, k1; rep from to last 4 sts, k4.
Repeat rows 1 and 2 until the mat measures approximately 65cm (25.5 inches) from the cast-on edge, or until you have used most of your yarn and feel happy with the length. You want to leave enough yarn for the final four rows and the bind-off.
The four-stitch garter border (k4 at the beginning and end of every row) runs throughout the entire mat and frames the seed stitch beautifully.
Step 4: Top Border
Once your mat has reached the desired length, work four rows of garter stitch to mirror the bottom border.
Rows: Knit every stitch across for four rows.
Step 5: Bind Off
Bind off loosely in knit stitch. A loose bind-off is important here — if the top edge is too tight, it will pucker and pull the mat out of shape. If you tend to bind off tightly, try using a needle one size larger for the bind-off row.
Step 6: Finishing
Weave in all ends using your tapestry needle, making sure to secure them well so they do not come undone in the wash. Trim the tails close to the fabric. Give your mat a wash according to the yarn label instructions and lay it flat to dry. Cotton mats often benefit from a light press with a steam iron once dry, which helps set the stitches and makes the mat lie beautifully flat.
Tips for Adjusting the Size
One of the best things about a simple pattern like this is how easy it is to customise. Here is how to make the mat larger or smaller.
Width: The width of your mat is determined by the number of stitches you cast on. For this pattern, you need a stitch count that is even, plus the eight edge stitches (four on each side). So the formula is: cast on any even number of stitches plus 8. For a narrower mat, try 56 or 64 stitches. For a wider mat, 80 or 88 stitches will give you more coverage.
Length: Simply knit more or fewer rows in the seed stitch section. More rows equal a longer mat. If you want a roughly square mat — great for in front of a sink — work until your piece measures the same as its width before adding the final border.
For a runner: If you want a longer mat to run in front of a double sink or along the side of a bathtub, cast on a narrower width and work more rows. A 50-stitch cast-on worked to 120cm makes a lovely runner.
Choosing Colours and Making Stripes
This pattern works beautifully in a single colour, but it also lends itself wonderfully to stripes. Because the mat is worked flat in rows, changing colour is simple: just drop the current yarn at the end of a row, pick up the new colour, and continue. Carry the yarn up the side of the work as you go to avoid too many ends to weave in.
A few colour combinations that look particularly striking:
Navy and natural white creates a classic nautical feel that suits almost any bathroom. Terracotta and cream has a warm, earthy quality that pairs well with natural wood and stone. Sage green and soft grey feels fresh and modern. For something playful, try alternating three or four colours in two-row stripes for a bold, contemporary look.
If you are using multiple colours, try to buy the same brand and weight of yarn in each shade so that the tension remains consistent throughout.
Caring for Your Knitted Bathmat
A knitted cotton bathmat is designed to be used and washed regularly, and with a little care it will look good for many years.
Wash it on a gentle or regular cycle at 40 degrees Celsius. Cotton can handle a slightly higher temperature if needed — useful if you want to freshen it up thoroughly — but washing at 40 will preserve the colour and shape for longer. Avoid tumble drying on a high heat setting, which can cause cotton to shrink. Instead, reshape the mat while it is still damp and lay it flat to dry. If you do use a tumble dryer, keep it on a low heat.
Avoid using fabric softener on cotton bathmats. While it might seem counterintuitive, fabric softener actually coats cotton fibres and reduces their absorbency over time. Your mat will stay more absorbent with plain detergent.
If your mat develops any pills or fuzzing after washing, a fabric shaver will remove them easily and make it look good as new.
Adding a Non-Slip Backing
One thing to consider with any knitted mat is whether you want to add a non-slip backing. Knitted fabric on a wet bathroom floor can slide, which creates a safety risk. There are several easy ways to solve this.
You can sew a piece of non-slip rug underlay to the back of the mat using a large tapestry needle and a length of yarn. Non-slip underlay is sold in fabric and DIY shops and can be cut to size. This is the most robust solution.
Alternatively, there are non-slip rug backing sprays available that you can apply directly to the back of the mat. They create a slightly tacky texture that grips the floor. These are easy to use and tend to hold up well through several washes.
A third option is to use non-slip grip dots — small rubber or silicone dots that you can iron or sew onto the back of the mat at regular intervals. These are particularly handy if you want a quick solution that is easy to replace when the grip wears down.
Common Questions
Can I use a different yarn weight?
Yes, absolutely. If you use a bulkier yarn on larger needles, your mat will knit up more quickly and have a chunkier texture. If you use a lighter yarn, the mat will be finer and softer underfoot. Just be aware that you will need to adjust the number of stitches to get the same finished size, or simply cast on the same number and accept a different final measurement.
Can I knit this on a loom?
Yes, this pattern can be adapted for a large knitting loom. Work in seed stitch as described, moving stitches to alternate pegs to create the knit-purl combination. The result will be slightly different in texture from needle-knitted fabric but perfectly functional.
How long will this take to knit?
For an average knitter working in the evenings, expect this mat to take somewhere between five and ten hours of knitting time. Chunky yarn on larger needles will be quicker. Many knitters find it a satisfying two-weekend project.
What if I run out of yarn?
Join a new ball of yarn at the beginning of a row rather than in the middle to keep the edges tidy. Simply tie the new yarn on loosely, knit the row, then go back and weave in both the old and new tails securely.
Ideas for Using Up Yarn Scraps
Bathmats are also a wonderful stash-busting project. If you have leftover cotton yarn in lots of different colours, a scrap bathmat in mixed stripes is a brilliant way to use it all up. Work two rows in one colour, switch to another, then another, and so on. The more random and eclectic the colour sequence, the more cheerful the result. There are no rules — just use whatever you have and enjoy the process.
You can also experiment with holding two strands of thinner yarn together as though they were one. Two strands of DK cotton held together on 6mm needles will give a similar result to a single strand of chunky yarn, and this is a great technique for using up those almost-empty balls that are not quite enough for a project on their own.
Why This Pattern Makes a Great Gift
If you are knitting this for someone else, a bathmat is one of those gifts that always lands well. It is practical without being boring, handmade without requiring the recipient to own it, and personal without needing any specific measurements or fitting. A mat knitted in someone’s favourite colour, or in colours chosen to match their bathroom, shows thought and care in a way that a shop-bought gift simply cannot.
Roll it up and tie it with a ribbon for a neat presentation, or lay it flat in a box. Include a little note about how to care for it so your recipient gets the most from your hard work.
Final Thoughts
Knitting your own bathmat is one of those projects that delivers real satisfaction at every stage — from casting on that first row, to watching the fabric grow under your hands, to the moment you lay the finished mat on your bathroom floor and step onto it for the first time. It is simple enough to be meditative and useful enough to feel worthwhile, and it produces something genuinely beautiful.
The pattern above is free to use for personal knitting and for gifts. If you make this mat, share your finished project — nothing is more inspiring than seeing how other knitters interpret a pattern with their own colour choices and creativity.
Happy knitting.
