How To Make A DIY Rag Rug Using Old Bedding
There is something deeply satisfying about turning something worn out and forgotten into something beautiful and useful. A rag rug is exactly that kind of project — a craft tradition that stretches back centuries, born out of practicality and kept alive by the pleasure of making something by hand. If you have a pile of old sheets, duvet covers, or pillowcases sitting in your linen cupboard that are too worn to donate but too sentimental to simply throw away, you already have everything you need to get started.
This guide will walk you through how to make a DIY rag rug using old bedding, from gathering your materials and preparing your fabric strips to braiding, looping, or weaving your way to a finished rug you will actually be proud to put on the floor. Whether you are a complete beginner or someone who has dabbled in crafting before, this project is accessible, rewarding, and genuinely good for the planet.
Why Make a Rag Rug from Old Bedding?
Before we dive into the how, it is worth spending a moment on the why — because there are quite a few good reasons to choose this particular project.
Old bedding is one of the most abundant sources of soft, workable fabric in any household. Sheets in particular are ideal for rag rug making because they tend to be large pieces of woven fabric, often made from cotton or a cotton blend, which strips beautifully and holds its shape well once worked. A single king-size duvet cover can yield dozens of long, usable strips without much waste at all.
From an environmental standpoint, textile waste is a significant problem. According to various sustainability organisations, millions of tonnes of clothing and household textiles end up in landfill every year, and bedding accounts for a surprisingly large chunk of that. By repurposing your old linens into a rug, you are diverting material from the waste stream and giving it a second life that could last for years.
There is also a financial argument. A handmade rag rug costs almost nothing if you are working with materials you already own. Even if you supplement your bedding stash with a few trips to a charity shop or car boot sale, you will spend a fraction of what a comparable rug would cost in a shop.
And then there is the creative side. Making something by hand, especially something functional, is genuinely good for your mental wellbeing. It slows you down, it gives your hands something to do, and it produces a tangible result you can point to and say, I made that.
What You Will Need
The beauty of a rag rug project is that the materials list is short and mostly free. Here is what to gather before you begin.
For the fabric: Old bedding is your primary resource. Cotton sheets, pillowcases, duvet covers, and even old T-shirts or lightweight curtains all work well. Avoid anything with a very heavy weave, thick padding, or a high synthetic content, as these are harder to work with and tend not to behave well in finished rugs. Soft, woven cotton is your friend.
For cutting: A pair of sharp fabric scissors is essential. If you have a rotary cutter and a self-healing mat, these will save you a considerable amount of time, especially when working with large sheets. A ruler or tape measure is helpful for keeping your strips consistent.
For the method you choose: Depending on which rug-making technique you go with — braiding, looping, or weaving — you may need a large blunt needle (also called a tapestry needle or rug needle), some strong thread or twine for coiling and sewing, or a loom or frame for weaving. More on this below.
Optional but useful: Rubber gloves if your hands are sensitive, a non-slip mat to work on, and clips or pegs to hold sections in place while you work.
Preparing Your Fabric Strips
This is the stage that beginners often underestimate, but good preparation makes everything else easier. Do not rush it.
Start by washing all your bedding if you have not already done so recently. Clean fabric is easier to work with, and you want your finished rug to be fresh from the start. Once washed and dried, lay each piece flat on a large surface.
Cut or tear your bedding into strips. The ideal width depends slightly on your chosen method, but as a general rule, strips between one and two inches wide work well for most rag rug techniques. Narrower strips produce a finer, denser result. Wider strips work up more quickly and give a chunkier, more textured look.
Many cotton fabrics can actually be torn rather than cut, which is faster and produces a slightly softer, frayed edge that can add lovely texture to the finished rug. To tear, make a small snip at the edge of the fabric perpendicular to the selvage, then grip both sides firmly and pull. The fabric will tear in a straight line along the grain. This method works particularly well with plain cotton sheets.
If you prefer cut strips for a cleaner edge, fold the fabric several times and cut through all the layers at once — this speeds things up considerably. A rotary cutter is excellent for this job.
Once you have your strips, you have a choice about how to join them. You can knot them end to end as you go, which is perfectly functional but leaves small bumps in the finished rug. A neater method is the loop-and-pull join: cut a small slit near the end of each strip, thread the next strip through the slit, then pull the far end of the new strip through its own slit to create a flat, secure join with no knots. This technique is worth learning because it makes the finished surface much smoother.
Wind your joined strips into loose balls or wrap them into loose skeins to keep them manageable as you work.
Choosing Your Method
There are three main approaches to making a rag rug, each with a slightly different look, feel, and skill level. Here is an overview of each so you can decide which suits you best.
The Braided Rag Rug
This is probably the most traditional method and the most beginner-friendly. Braided rugs have a characteristic coiled, oval or circular shape and a pleasingly chunky texture. They are hardwearing and look wonderful in kitchens, hallways, and beside beds.
To make a braided rug, you work with three strips at a time, plaiting them together exactly as you would plait hair. You then coil the finished braid and stitch it together as you go, using a large needle and strong thread or thin twine. The stitching goes through the edges of adjacent braids, binding them together invisibly from the underside.
Begin by securing three strips together at one end — you can pin them to a cushion or tape them to a table. Braid them steadily, keeping even tension, and add new strips using the loop-and-pull method as each one runs out. When your braid reaches about a metre in length (or longer if you want to build up a good head start), begin coiling and stitching.
Lay the braid flat on a surface and begin coiling it from the centre outward for a circular rug, or fold the first section back on itself to begin an oval shape. Stitch through the edges of the braid on each side using a whip stitch or a simple overhand stitch, pulling the thread firmly so the coils lie flat and neat. Continue braiding and adding to the coil until the rug reaches your desired size. Finish by tapering the final braid down to a point by gradually narrowing your strips, then stitch the end down securely and hide it under the edge of the rug.
The Looped or Prodded Rag Rug
This method produces a shaggier, more textured surface that is soft underfoot and looks wonderfully cosy. It is particularly popular in the north of England, where it is known as proggy or proddy rug making, and it has a long folk tradition behind it.
You will need a base — traditionally hessian (burlap), but an open-weave canvas or even a piece of strong netting works well. You will also need a prodding tool, which can be a purpose-made rug hook available from craft suppliers, or something improvised like a thick blunt needle, a wooden skewer with a slightly rounded tip, or even an old-fashioned clothes peg.
Cut your strips shorter for this method — about three to four inches long works well. Hold the base fabric flat (a frame or embroidery hoop can help keep it taut) and use your tool to push each strip through from the back, pulling both ends through to the front so they form a U shape, with both ends poking up on the same side. Pack the loops or ends close together, working in rows across the hessian, and the finished surface will be dense, soft, and incredibly durable.
You can work random colours for a traditional rag rug look, or plan your design carefully to create patterns, stripes, or even pictures.
When the base is fully covered, finish the edges by folding the excess hessian over and stitching it down, or binding it with a strip of your fabric.
The Woven Rag Rug
Weaving produces the flattest, smoothest rug, and it is also the most structured method in terms of setup. You will need either a simple frame loom (which you can make yourself from four pieces of wood and some nails) or a purchased peg loom or rigid heddle loom.
Set up your loom with a strong warp — this is the vertical thread that your strips will weave through. Cotton twine or jute string works well as a warp. Then weave your fabric strips over and under the warp threads in alternating rows, packing each one down firmly with your fingers or a comb. For a reversible rug, keep the weaving even on both sides. For more texture, you can fold your strips so the raw edges are hidden, or leave them loose for a frayed effect.
Woven rugs have a lovely neat, flat finish and can be made very precisely in terms of size and colour placement. They do require a bit more setup and planning than braided or prodded rugs, but the result is a rug that looks almost indistinguishable from a professionally made piece.
Colour Planning and Design
One of the pleasures of making a rag rug from old bedding is that you often have a mix of colours and patterns to work with, and the design largely takes care of itself. That said, a little thought about colour can take your rug from pretty to stunning.
If you are making a braided rug, try sorting your strips into warm tones, cool tones, or neutrals, and mixing within each braid so the colour transitions are gradual and harmonious. A random mix of colours in each braid gives a traditional, homespun look. A more considered arrangement — say, braids that shift from cream to blush to terracotta — gives a more contemporary feel.
For prodded or looped rugs, you have the most control, since you are placing each piece individually. Simple stripe patterns are easy and effective. Geometric designs can be sketched lightly onto the hessian with a fabric marker before you begin. Even a simple border in a contrasting colour makes a big difference.
For woven rugs, stripes are the natural default, and they look wonderful. Vary the width of your colour bands to create rhythm and interest.
Do not feel you need to overthink it. Some of the most beautiful rag rugs are the ones where the maker simply used what they had, in whatever order it came to hand, and trusted the process.
Finishing Your Rug
However you have made your rug, finishing it properly will make it last much longer and look more polished.
For braided rugs, ensure all the ends are securely stitched and tucked away. Run your hand over the underside to find any loose threads and secure them.
For prodded rugs, check that all the strips are firmly anchored and none are pulling loose. If any spots feel thin, add extra strips until the surface is dense enough that you cannot see the hessian base beneath.
For all rugs, consider adding a non-slip backing. You can sew or glue a piece of non-slip rug mesh to the underside — this is available from most hardware or home stores and makes a significant difference, especially on smooth floors. Alternatively, a non-slip rug pad placed underneath works just as well.
Give the finished rug a gentle wash — most cotton rag rugs can go in the washing machine on a cool, gentle cycle. Let it dry flat to help it keep its shape.
Caring for Your Rag Rug
A well-made rag rug is surprisingly hardwearing, but a little care will keep it looking good for years.
Shake it out regularly to remove dust and debris. Vacuum it gently using a low suction setting, or simply take it outside and beat it the old-fashioned way. For spills, blot immediately rather than rubbing, and spot-clean with a mild soap if needed.
Washing the whole rug every few months in a cool machine wash will refresh it and keep the colours bright. Always dry it flat if possible, as hanging can distort the shape while it is wet and heavy.
Rotate the rug occasionally if it is in a high-traffic area, so wear is distributed evenly across the surface.
A Few Final Thoughts
Making a rag rug from old bedding is one of those projects that seems modest at first glance but ends up feeling genuinely meaningful. You are working with something familiar — fabric that has been on the beds where your family slept, perhaps for years — and transforming it into something new that will last for years more.
The process is meditative in the best possible way. Once you get into the rhythm of braiding or prodding or weaving, your hands know what to do and your mind is free to wander. It is the kind of craft that people describe as addictive, and it is easy to understand why.
Start small if you are nervous — a small doormat-sized rug is perfectly achievable in a single weekend and will give you all the skills you need to tackle something larger. Once you have made one, you will almost certainly want to make another, and the supply of old bedding in most households is more than generous enough to keep you busy.
So pull out those old sheets, grab your scissors, and start cutting. Your floor — and the planet — will thank you.
