How To Crochet A Cute Bear Rug — Part 2: Step-by-Step Guide | Tapis Au Crochet 🐻
Welcome back, crochet lovers! If you’ve been following along since Part 1, you already know how exciting this project is. By now, you should have your foundation rounds completed and your bear’s body taking shape. If you’re jumping in fresh, don’t worry — this guide will walk you through every stitch clearly enough that you can follow along even as a beginner with a little patience and enthusiasm.
Today in Part 2, we’re diving deeper into the construction of this adorable bear rug. We’ll be finishing the main body, adding the iconic bear ears, shaping the face details, and assembling everything into a finished rug that looks absolutely stunning on any floor. Whether you’re making this as a nursery accent, a cozy bedroom piece, or a gift for someone special, this bear rug is going to be one of the most rewarding projects you’ve ever completed.
Let’s get started!
What You’ll Need Before We Begin
Before we jump into the stitches, let’s make sure you have everything ready. Having all your materials within reach saves a lot of frustration mid-project.
For this part of the project, you’ll want to have on hand a large crochet hook, typically around 10mm to 12mm depending on your yarn weight, though some crocheters working with chunky or bulky yarn prefer going up to a 15mm hook for a looser, more plush texture. You’ll need your main color yarn, which is your bear color — a warm brown, caramel, sandy beige, or even a soft grey if you want a more contemporary look. You’ll also want a contrasting or complementary color for the face details, inner ears, and nose area.
In addition to yarn and a hook, have a yarn needle handy for weaving in ends and joining sections, scissors, stitch markers to keep track of your round beginnings, and a flat surface to lay your work out and check the shape as you go. A non-slip rug backing or grip pad is optional but highly recommended once your rug is finished — it keeps the rug in place and protects both your floors and your beautiful handiwork.
A Quick Recap From Part 1
In Part 1, we established our magic ring and worked our way through the foundational rounds of the bear’s main body. By the end of Part 1, your bear body should be a large, flat oval or rounded rectangle shape that will serve as the torso and belly of the rug. The key throughout this project is to keep your tension even and your increases placed correctly so the piece lays flat rather than curling up at the edges.
If your piece is curling slightly, try blocking it with a damp cloth and letting it dry flat, or try going up half a hook size. A little curl at the very edges can also be tamed once the border round is complete.
Part 2, Step 1 — Completing the Body Rounds
If your body piece isn’t quite the full size yet, this is where we make sure it reaches the right dimensions before we close it off. For a standard bear rug that fits nicely in a nursery or at the foot of a bed, the body should measure roughly 50 to 60 centimeters across at its widest point and about 65 to 80 centimeters in length. For a larger rug, you simply keep adding increase rounds until you reach your desired size.
Work in continuous rounds using single crochet or half double crochet depending on the look you want. Single crochet gives a tighter, denser fabric with a smooth surface, while half double crochet creates a slightly taller, softer fabric with just a touch more drape. Many crocheters working with chunky yarn prefer single crochet for rugs because it results in a sturdier piece that holds up better underfoot.
Continue working your rounds without increases for the last two or three rounds of the body. These “even” rounds help stabilize the shape and prevent flaring. When you’re satisfied with the size, fasten off but do not cut your yarn yet if you plan to add a border round directly — simply place a stitch marker in your last loop and set the body aside for a moment.
Part 2, Step 2 — Working the Head
The head is what makes this rug truly come alive. It’s worked separately and then attached, which gives you full control over placement and allows you to make the head as large or as small as you like in proportion to the body.
To begin the head, start a new magic ring with your main color yarn. Chain 2 (this does not count as a stitch), then work 6 single crochet into the ring and pull tight to close. This is your starting circle.
Round 1 is an increase round: work 2 single crochet in each stitch around. You will have 12 stitches.
Round 2: alternate between 1 single crochet in the first stitch and 2 single crochet in the second stitch all the way around. You will have 18 stitches.
Round 3: work 1 single crochet in the first two stitches, then 2 single crochet in the third stitch, repeating this pattern around. You will have 24 stitches.
Continue in this pattern, adding one additional single crochet between your increase stitches each round. Depending on your yarn weight and hook size, you may need anywhere from 6 to 9 rounds of increases to get a head that is proportional to your body piece. Lay the head piece on top of the body frequently to compare sizes — the head should be roughly half the width of the body or slightly smaller for a natural-looking bear shape.
Once you’ve reached the right circumference, work two even rounds without any increases to stabilize the head shape, then fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing.
Part 2, Step 3 — Creating the Ears
The ears are small but they make the biggest visual impact. They’re what instantly turns this from “a brown rug” to “oh my goodness, it’s a bear!”
For each ear, you’ll make two pieces — an outer ear in your main color and an inner ear in a lighter or contrasting color. You’ll then join them together before attaching them to the head.
For the outer ear, make a magic ring and work 6 single crochet into it. Work one increase round to bring your stitch count to 12, then work one even round, then one more increase round to reach 18 stitches. Fasten off with a long tail.
For the inner ear, repeat the same process but work only two rounds — your initial 6 stitches and one increase round to reach 12. Fasten off.
Place the inner ear piece on top of the outer ear piece, right sides facing out, and whip stitch around the outer edge to join them together. The inner ear will sit slightly inside the outer ear, creating a beautiful layered effect. Make two sets.
Once both ears are assembled, fold the bottom edge of each ear slightly inward to create a gentle curve — this gives the ears a rounder, more three-dimensional look when they’re attached to the head. Pin them in place on the upper portion of the head piece before sewing to make sure you’re happy with the positioning. Generally, the ears look best when placed at roughly the 10 o’clock and 2 o’clock positions on the head circle.
Using your yarn needle and main color yarn, sew each ear securely to the head, stitching through all layers several times to ensure they’re firmly attached and won’t come loose with handling.
Part 2, Step 4 — The Muzzle and Face Details
No bear rug is complete without that sweet little muzzle and face. The muzzle is a small oval piece worked in a slightly lighter shade of your main color or in cream, beige, or tan.
To make the muzzle, chain 4. Single crochet in the second chain from the hook and in the next chain, then work 3 single crochet in the last chain to turn the corner. Working along the opposite side of the foundation chain, single crochet in the next stitch, then work 2 single crochet in the last stitch. Join with a slip stitch to the first stitch to close the oval. Work one more round of single crochet around the entire oval, adding increases at each end to keep it flat. Fasten off with a long tail for sewing.
Position the muzzle on the lower half of the head piece and pin it in place. Using your yarn needle and matching yarn, sew around the entire edge to attach the muzzle, leaving a small opening to stuff lightly with a little fiberfill or yarn scraps if you want a slightly raised, dimensional effect. Close the opening completely before fastening off.
For the nose, use a dark brown or black yarn and your yarn needle to embroider a small triangle or oval shape at the top center of the muzzle. Work several satin stitches side by side to fill in the shape and give it definition. You can also use safety eyes or plastic craft eyes for a different look, though embroidered features are generally preferred for rugs since they’re safer underfoot and more durable with washing.
For the eyes, embroider two small oval or circular shapes above the muzzle using dark yarn, or use felt circles cut to size and stitched in place. If your rug is for a nursery or will be used around young children, always opt for embroidered or fabric-based eyes rather than hard plastic ones.
Part 2, Step 5 — Working the Paws and Limbs
Depending on the style of bear rug you’re making, you might include front paws that extend slightly from the sides of the body, back paws at the bottom, or simply work paw details directly onto the body piece as surface crochet embellishments.
For a full-silhouette bear rug with extended paws, each front paw is made similarly to a small flat oval. Make a magic ring, work 6 stitches, work one increase round to 12 stitches, then work one or two even rounds. Fasten off. These small round pieces get attached at the upper sides of the body at an angle, as though the bear is lying outstretched with its paws forward.
The back paws are slightly larger. Work the same process but continue your increase rounds until you have 18 to 24 stitches before working your even rounds. Attach these at the lower corners of the body, angled outward to mimic the natural sprawl of a bear lying flat.
For the claws, use a dark yarn to embroider three small straight stitches at the rounded edge of each paw. Keep them simple — just three short lines fanning out from the lower edge of the paw. This tiny detail adds so much character and realism to the finished piece.
Part 2, Step 6 — Assembling the Rug
Now comes the most satisfying moment: putting it all together. Lay your body piece flat on a clean surface. Place the head at the top, slightly overlapping the body, and pin it securely in multiple places. Step back and look at the overall proportions from a distance before you commit to sewing.
Once you’re happy with the positioning, use your yarn needle and a generous length of main color yarn to sew the head to the body. Work around the entire overlapping area, stitching through both layers with a whip stitch or a mattress stitch. The mattress stitch creates a nearly invisible seam and is worth the extra time if you want a clean, polished finish.
Attach the paws next, checking that they’re symmetrical on both sides. A trick for achieving symmetry is to fold your rug in half vertically to find the center line, then measure each paw’s position from that center line rather than eyeballing it from the edge.
Part 2, Step 7 — The Border Round
The border round is the finishing touch that ties the entire rug together and gives it a clean, professional look. With your main color yarn and the same hook you’ve been using, join your yarn anywhere along the outer edge of the assembled rug and work a round of single crochet evenly around the entire perimeter, including around the head and paws if they’re attached.
When you reach corners or areas where the head meets the body, work 3 single crochet into the corner stitch to allow the border to turn neatly without puckering. Keep your tension even throughout.
For a decorative touch, after your single crochet border round, work a second round of reverse single crochet — sometimes called the crab stitch — which creates a beautiful twisted rope effect along the edge. To work the reverse single crochet, do not turn your work. Instead, working from left to right (the opposite direction of your normal crochet), insert your hook into the stitch to the right, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over and draw through both loops on your hook. Continue in this direction all the way around. It takes a moment to get used to, but the finished look is absolutely worth it.
Fasten off and weave in all your ends carefully using your yarn needle, tucking them deep into the fabric so they won’t come loose over time.
Finishing Touches and Care Tips
Once your bear rug is fully assembled and your ends are woven in, give the whole piece a gentle blocking. Lay it flat on a towel, mist it lightly with water, shape it to the correct dimensions, and allow it to air dry completely. This step relaxes the fibers and helps the rug lay perfectly flat.
If you’re adding a rug backing — which is highly recommended for safety and durability — cut a piece of non-slip rug backing to roughly match the shape of your bear and hand stitch it to the back of the rug with a few rows of large stitches. This prevents any slipping on smooth floors.
For ongoing care, spot clean your bear rug by hand with a mild soap and cool water. If a full wash is needed, hand wash gently and lay flat to dry. Avoid the dryer, as high heat can distort the shape and felt certain wool yarns unexpectedly.
Frequently Asked Questions
One question that comes up often is about yarn quantity. For a full bear rug of medium size, expect to use roughly 500 to 800 grams of your main color chunky yarn, with smaller amounts of your contrast colors for the ears, muzzle, and face details. It’s always better to buy a little extra and return unused skeins than to run out mid-project.
Another common question is about gauge. Because this is a rug rather than a garment, gauge is flexible — what matters most is that your fabric is dense enough to hold up underfoot and lay flat without excessive curling. If you’re unsure, work a small test swatch and check how it feels. It should be firm but not stiff.
You Did It — Your Bear Rug Is Complete!
Step back and admire what you’ve created. A handmade bear rug is not a small undertaking — it requires patience, attention to detail, and a genuine love for the craft. Whether this took you a long weekend or a few weeks of evening sessions, the result is something truly unique that you made with your own hands.
This project makes an incredible baby shower gift, a cozy addition to a child’s bedroom, or a playful accent piece in any living space. Share your finished rug using crochet hashtags online and don’t forget to tag your work — the crochet community absolutely loves seeing finished bear rugs, and yours deserves to be celebrated.
If you found this guide helpful, bookmark it, share it with a fellow crocheter, and stay tuned because more step-by-step crochet projects — including accessories and matching pieces to go with this bear rug — are coming soon. Happy crocheting! 🐻
