Crochet Pattern for a Doily Rag Rug Made from Bed Sheets — Megmade with Love

There is something deeply satisfying about turning something old into something beautiful. Old bed sheets, the ones that are too worn to sleep on but too sentimental to throw away, have a second life waiting for them inside a cozy, textured rag rug. This crochet pattern transforms fabric strips cut from cotton bed sheets into a stunning doily-style rag rug that looks like it belongs in a cottage kitchen, a farmhouse bathroom, or a sunny reading nook. If you have been looking for a beginner-friendly way to use up fabric stash or give your floors a handmade touch, this is the project you have been waiting for.

This is a Megmade with Love original pattern, designed to be approachable for anyone who knows basic crochet stitches and has a pile of old sheets taking up space in the linen closet.

Why Make a Rag Rug from Bed Sheets?

Before we dive into the pattern itself, let’s talk about why bed sheets are such an ideal material for rag rugs. Cotton bed sheets, especially older ones that have been washed dozens of times, are incredibly soft and pliable. They have a beautiful drape that makes them easy to crochet with, and because they have already gone through so many wash cycles, they are pre-shrunk and colorfast. You will not get any unpleasant surprises after you finish your rug and toss it in the wash.

Bed sheets also come in large pieces, which means fewer joins when you are cutting your strips. A standard queen-size flat sheet gives you enough material to work with for a rug that is roughly 24 to 30 inches in diameter, depending on how wide you cut your strips and how tightly you crochet. For a larger rug, simply gather more sheets in coordinating colors.

There is also the sustainability angle. Making a rag rug from old textiles means those materials stay out of the landfill, and the finished product replaces something you might otherwise buy. That feels good in every direction.

What You Will Need

Fabric: Two to three queen-size flat sheets in coordinating or contrasting colors. Cotton works best. Avoid sheets with a lot of polyester content, as synthetic fabrics do not have the same softness and can feel stiff or scratchy underfoot. Flannel sheets also work beautifully for a softer, slightly thicker result.

Hook: A size N/15 (10mm) or P/16 (11.5mm) crochet hook. Because you are working with fabric strips rather than yarn, you need a large hook. Susan Bates and Boye both make hooks in these sizes, and you can also find jumbo wooden or acrylic hooks that are comfortable for extended use.

Scissors: A sharp pair of fabric scissors or a rotary cutter with a cutting mat. Sharp scissors are non-negotiable here. Dull scissors will leave you with ragged, uneven strips and frustrated hands.

Ruler or cutting guide: Optional, but helpful for keeping your strips a consistent width.

Large yarn needle: For weaving in ends and joining strips if needed.

Non-slip rug pad: Optional, but highly recommended for safety, especially on hard floors.

Preparing Your Fabric Strips

This step takes a bit of time, but it is genuinely meditative once you get into a rhythm. Put on a podcast or a comfort show and settle in.

Washing: Start by washing your sheets if they are not already clean. Dry them completely before cutting.

Cutting: Lay your sheet out flat on a large surface. Fold it lengthwise a few times until you have a manageable folded strip. Using your ruler, mark lines every inch and a half across the width of the folded fabric, then cut along those lines. When you unfold the strips, each one will be about one and a half inches wide. This is the ideal width for a fabric strip that you will fold and roll into a ball, as the strip will naturally fold in on itself as you crochet, hiding any raw edges.

If you prefer a neater finish, you can cut strips that are two inches wide and fold the raw edges to the center before rolling, essentially making a little fabric tape. This gives you a polished look with no fraying, but it does add prep time.

Joining strips: When you reach the end of one strip or need to join a new color, lay the end of your current strip and the start of your new strip perpendicular to each other, right sides together. Cut a small slit through both layers near the ends, then pass one end through the other and pull tight. This creates a flat, secure join that will not come unraveled underfoot and lies almost invisibly within the finished fabric.

Roll your prepared strips into loose balls as you go. Working from the center of the ball outward prevents tangling.

Understanding the Doily Structure

A doily-style rug works exactly like a crocheted doily, just on a much larger scale and with fabric instead of thread. The rug is worked in the round, starting with a magic ring at the center and expanding outward by adding increases at regular intervals. The result is a flat, circular piece with beautiful texture and a lacy, old-fashioned quality that looks gorgeous in any home.

The stitch pattern used in this design combines chains, single crochets, and double crochets to create a repeating pattern that mimics the open, floral quality of a traditional doily. Because you are working with thick fabric strips, the individual stitches read much more boldly than in thread crochet, and even simple stitch combinations look dramatic and intentional.

The Pattern

Gauge: Gauge is not critical for this project, but working to roughly 2 double crochets per inch on a size N or P hook will give you a rug that lies flat and has good density. Crochet too loosely and the rug will be floppy; too tightly and it will start to cup.

Abbreviations:
ch = chain
sl st = slip stitch
sc = single crochet
dc = double crochet
hdc = half double crochet
sp = space
rep = repeat
rnd = round
st = stitch

Round 1

Make a magic ring. Chain 4, then work 11 double crochets into the ring. Slip stitch to the top of the beginning chain 4 to join. Pull the tail of the magic ring tight to close the center. You will have 12 stitches total, counting the chain 4 as one double crochet.

Round 2

Chain 3, then work 1 more double crochet into the same stitch. Work 2 double crochets into each stitch around. Slip stitch to the top of the beginning chain 3 to join. You will have 24 double crochets.

Round 3

Chain 5. Skip 1 stitch, then work 1 double crochet into the next stitch. Continue around working chain 2, skip 1 stitch, 1 double crochet into the next stitch, and repeat to the end. Slip stitch to the third chain of the beginning chain 5. You will have 12 double crochets and 12 chain-2 spaces.

Round 4

Slip stitch into the first chain-2 space. Chain 3, then work 2 more double crochets into the same space. Work 3 double crochets into each chain-2 space around. Slip stitch to the top of the beginning chain 3. You will have 36 double crochets.

Round 5

Chain 1. Work 1 single crochet into the first stitch. Chain 3, skip 2 stitches, then work 1 single crochet into the next stitch. Repeat chain 3, skip 2, single crochet to the end of the round. Slip stitch to the first single crochet. You will have 12 single crochets and 12 chain-3 loops.

Round 6

Slip stitch into the first chain-3 loop. Chain 3, then work 4 double crochets into the same loop. Work 5 double crochets into each chain-3 loop around. Slip stitch to the top of the beginning chain 3. You will have 60 double crochets.

Round 7

Chain 1. Work 1 single crochet into the first stitch, then chain 5. Skip 4 stitches, work 1 single crochet into the next stitch. Repeat chain 5, skip 4, single crochet to the end of the round. Slip stitch to the first single crochet. You will have 12 chain-5 loops.

Round 8

Slip stitch into the first chain-5 loop. Chain 3, then work 6 double crochets into the same loop. Work 7 double crochets into each chain-5 loop around. Slip stitch to the top of the beginning chain 3. You will have 84 double crochets.

Round 9

Chain 4. Work 1 double crochet into the same stitch, then chain 1. Skip 1 stitch. Work 1 double crochet, chain 1, 1 double crochet into the next stitch. Repeat chain 1, skip 1, double crochet, chain 1, double crochet in next stitch, continuing around. Slip stitch to the third chain of the beginning chain 4. This round creates an open mesh effect that gives the rug its doily quality.

Round 10

Chain 1. Work 2 single crochets into each chain-1 space around, and 1 single crochet into each double crochet. Slip stitch to the first single crochet to join. This round fills in the mesh and adds density.

Continuing the Pattern

To continue enlarging your rug, simply repeat the pattern of alternating between fan rounds, mesh rounds, and fill rounds. Each time you work a fan round, increase the number of double crochets in each fan cluster by one or two, and increase the chain length in the loops between clusters by one chain. This allows the rug to keep growing outward in a flat, even circle.

Work until your rug reaches the size you want. A 24-inch rug is lovely for in front of a sink or beside a bed. A 36-inch rug makes a beautiful focal point in an entryway or kitchen.

Final Round

For the final round, work a simple border of single crochets evenly around the entire edge of the rug. If you notice the edge pulling in or curling up, add an extra single crochet or two in each space to encourage it to lie flat. Slip stitch to the first single crochet and fasten off.

Weave in all ends securely using your large yarn needle.

Blocking Your Rug

Because fabric strips are heavier than yarn, your rug will generally lie fairly flat on its own, especially after a wash. However, if you notice any areas that are pulling or puckering, a simple wet blocking will help. Soak the finished rug in cool water, then lay it flat on a clean towel or drying rack, pinning if necessary, and allow it to dry completely. Once it dries, it will hold its shape beautifully.

You can also machine wash your finished rug on a gentle cycle with cold water and dry it on low heat or air dry it flat. Cotton rag rugs only get softer with washing, so do not be afraid to use it and launder it regularly.

Tips for Success

Keep your tension consistent. Uneven tension is the most common reason a circular rug will cup or wave. If you notice the rug starting to ruffle at the edges, your tension is too loose and you should try working more tightly or skipping an increase. If it cups upward, your tension is too tight or you need more increases.

Change colors intentionally. One of the most delightful things about a fabric rag rug is how it tells a story through its colors. You might work the center in a worn floral sheet from your grandmother’s house, then transition to a soft blue stripe, then finish with crisp white. Each color change is a tiny piece of history worked into something useful and lasting.

Don’t stress about perfection. Rag rugs are folk art. They have texture and personality and irregularity, and that is exactly what makes them beautiful. A slight wobble in one round or a join that shows a little more than you’d like is part of the charm.

Work on a flat surface periodically. Every few rounds, lay your work down on a flat surface and see how it is lying. This is the fastest way to catch tension issues before they become too large to fix easily.

Use a non-slip pad underneath. On hard floors especially, a simple non-slip rug pad underneath your finished rug will keep it in place and protect the back of the fabric from abrasion.

Variations to Try

Once you have made one of these rugs, you will probably want to make more. Here are some ideas for variations.

A monochromatic rug made from sheets in different shades of the same color — cream, ivory, and white, for example, or pale blue and navy — looks elegant and modern. A scrappy rug that uses every old sheet you can find, regardless of color or pattern, has an exuberant energy that suits a playful space like a child’s room or a mudroom. You could also experiment with combining fabric strips and thick cotton yarn, alternating rounds for a different texture.

For a rectangular rug, the same doily logic applies but worked in rows instead of rounds, or you can use an oval foundation chain at the center instead of a magic ring to create an oval rug that elongates naturally as you add rounds.

Sharing Your Make

If you make this rug using this pattern, please share it! Tag your project with #MegmadewithLove so I can see what you create. There is nothing I love more than seeing how different makers interpret the same pattern, and fabric rag rugs especially have such a personal quality — the sheets you use, the colors you choose, the size you make it — every finished rug is truly one of a kind.

Whether your rug ends up in a sunny bathroom, a cozy kitchen, or beside a child’s bed, know that you made something both beautiful and meaningful. You gave old fabric new life, you created something with your own hands, and you added a handmade touch to a corner of the world that needed one.

Happy crocheting, and as always — make it with love.

This pattern is an original design by Megmade with Love. Please feel free to sell finished items made from this pattern with credit given, but do not reproduce or redistribute the pattern itself without permission. If you have questions or need help with any step, leave a comment below and I will do my best to help you out.