Crochet Basketweave Stitch [Free Video Tutorial & Written Pattern!]

If you’ve ever admired a beautifully textured crochet project and wondered how those stunning woven ridges were made, you were almost certainly looking at the basketweave stitch. It’s one of those stitches that looks impossibly complicated from a distance but turns out to be surprisingly approachable once you understand the logic behind it. Today I’m walking you through everything you need to know — from the basic concept and materials to the full written pattern and tips for using this stitch in your own projects. And yes, there’s a free video tutorial waiting for you below!

Whether you’re a beginner who’s just gotten comfortable with basic stitches or an intermediate crocheter looking to add something impressive to your repertoire, the basketweave stitch is a wonderful next step. Let’s get into it.

What Is the Crochet Basketweave Stitch?

The basketweave stitch is a textured crochet technique that creates a raised, woven pattern that closely mimics the look of an actual woven basket or a classic cable-knit fabric. The effect is achieved by alternating front post and back post double crochets in a specific sequence, which pushes groups of stitches either toward you or away from you to create the illusion of interlocking vertical and horizontal bands.

The result is a thick, substantial fabric with incredible visual depth. It’s one of the most popular stitches in the crochet world for good reason — it looks impressive, it feels wonderful in the hand, and the finished texture adds a professional, polished quality to any project.

The stitch has a long history in fiber arts. Similar patterns show up in knitting, weaving, and even macramé, but the crocheted version has its own unique character. Because crochet builds fabric one stitch at a time rather than holding loops on needles, the basketweave pattern comes together in a slightly different way than its knitted cousin, and many crocheters actually find it easier to manage.

What Can You Make With the Basketweave Stitch?

The short answer is: a lot. The basketweave stitch is incredibly versatile. Because it creates such a thick, structured fabric, it works especially well for home décor and cold-weather accessories. Here are some of my favorite projects to make with this stitch:

Blankets and throws are probably the most popular use. A basketweave blanket has that classic, cozy look that fits right in on a couch, a bed, or a reading chair. The texture catches the light beautifully and the reversible nature of the stitch (more on that in a moment) means both sides of your blanket look intentional and finished.

Pot holders and dishcloths are perfect beginner practice projects for this stitch. They’re small, they work up quickly, and the dense fabric is exactly what you want for something that needs to be functional as well as pretty.

Scarves and cowls are naturals for this stitch as well. The thick, structured texture is wonderful against the skin, and the woven look gives scarves a sophisticated, almost designer feel.

Pillow covers and cushions made with the basketweave stitch look like something you’d find in a high-end home goods store. The pattern works especially well in neutral tones for a modern farmhouse aesthetic or in rich jewel tones for something bold and cozy.

Baby blankets and loveys are gorgeous in soft yarns with the basketweave pattern — though I’d recommend using a baby-safe, super-soft yarn for anything intended for a little one.

Baskets and storage containers — yes, really! If you use a stiff cotton yarn or even a jute twine, the basketweave stitch makes incredible actual baskets. The irony is deeply satisfying.

Materials You’ll Need

Before we dive into the pattern itself, let’s talk about what you’ll need to get started.

Yarn: The basketweave stitch works best with smooth, plied yarns rather than fluffy or loosely spun ones. The reason is simple — the texture of the stitch is the whole point, and if your yarn is too fuzzy or textured itself, it will obscure the beautiful pattern you’re working so hard to create. I love using a medium-weight worsted yarn for my basketweave swatches and projects. Cotton and cotton-blend yarns are especially good choices because they have a slight sheen that helps the ridges pop. For your first try, pick a light or medium color — darker yarns can make it harder to see your stitches clearly while you’re learning.

Hook: For a worsted weight yarn, I typically use a 5.0mm (H/8) hook. Always check the label on your specific yarn for the recommended hook size, and remember that gauge matters more for some projects than others. For a decorative swatch or a dishcloth, gauge isn’t critical. For a fitted garment or a blanket made to specific dimensions, always swatch first.

Scissors and a yarn needle: You’ll need these to finish off your work and weave in the ends at the end. Nothing fancy required here.

Stitch markers (optional but helpful): If you’re new to post stitches, placing a stitch marker at the beginning of each row can help you keep track of where you are. Some crocheters also like to mark the turning chains so they don’t accidentally skip them.

Key Stitches You Need to Know

The basketweave stitch relies entirely on two techniques: the front post double crochet (FPdc) and the back post double crochet (BPdc). If you’ve never worked post stitches before, don’t worry — I’ll explain them fully here, and the video tutorial below will show you exactly what each one looks like in real time.

Double Crochet (dc): The standard double crochet is the building block for everything in this pattern. If you’re comfortable with it, you’re already halfway there. If you need a refresher, yarn over, insert your hook into the stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through 2 loops (2 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through the remaining 2 loops.

Front Post Double Crochet (FPdc): Instead of inserting your hook into the top of a stitch as you normally would, you insert it around the post (the vertical bar) of the stitch below, going from front to back to front. Yarn over and complete the double crochet as normal. The stitch will sit in front of your work, creating a raised ridge.

Back Post Double Crochet (BPdc): This is the opposite — insert your hook around the post of the stitch below, but this time going from back to front to back. Complete the double crochet as normal. The stitch sits behind your work, creating an indented channel.

When you alternate groups of FPdc and BPdc in the right pattern and switch which group gets which treatment on subsequent rows, the woven basketweave effect emerges like magic.

Free Written Pattern: Crochet Basketweave Stitch Swatch

This pattern will create a small swatch that demonstrates the full basketweave pattern. Once you understand the structure, you can easily adapt it to any project size.

Gauge: Approximately 14 stitches and 8 rows = 4 inches in dc with worsted weight yarn and 5.0mm hook.

Finished size of swatch: Approximately 6 x 6 inches.

Chain a multiple of 8 stitches, plus 3 for the turning chain. For this swatch, chain 27 (24 + 3).

Row 1 (Foundation Row): Dc in 4th chain from hook and in each chain across. Turn. (24 dc)

Row 2: Ch 2 (counts as first dc throughout), turn. Work 4 FPdc around the next 4 sts, work 4 BPdc around the next 4 sts. Repeat from to across, ending with dc in the top of the turning chain. Turn.

Row 3: Ch 2, turn. Work 4 FPdc around the next 4 sts, work 4 BPdc around the next 4 sts. Repeat from to across, ending with dc in the top of the turning chain. Turn.

Row 4: Ch 2, turn. Work 4 BPdc around the next 4 sts, work 4 FPdc around the next 4 sts. Repeat from to across, ending with dc in the top of the turning chain. Turn.

Row 5: Ch 2, turn. Work 4 BPdc around the next 4 sts, work 4 FPdc around the next 4 sts. Repeat from to across, ending with dc in the top of the turning chain. Turn.

Rows 6–9: Repeat rows 2–5 once more.

Row 10: Ch 2, turn. Dc across. Fasten off and weave in ends.

The basketweave pattern is built from a simple two-row repeat within each “panel” of stitches. Rows 2 and 3 work FPdc over the first group of four and BPdc over the second group of four. Rows 4 and 5 swap them — BPdc over the first group and FPdc over the second. This swap is what creates the woven effect. After working two rows with the pattern one way, you flip it, and after two more rows, the columns that were raised become recessed and vice versa, giving you those intersecting ridges.

If you want a taller swatch or a larger project, simply continue repeating rows 2 through 5 for as many repeats as you need, then finish with a final row of plain double crochets to mirror the foundation row.

Free Video Tutorial

Watching the stitch in action is genuinely the best way to understand where to place your hook for the front post and back post stitches. In the video tutorial linked below, I walk through the entire pattern from the foundation chain to the finished swatch. I show close-up views of the hook placement for both FPdc and BPdc so you can see exactly what “around the post” means in practice. I also share some tips for keeping your tension even and avoiding common mistakes like accidentally working into the top of a post stitch rather than around the post itself.

The video is beginner-friendly and moves at a comfortable pace. I’d recommend watching it all the way through once before you start, then keeping it open to refer back to as you work through your first few rows. Once the stitch clicks — and it will click — you’ll find yourself flying through the pattern without needing to reference it at all.

Tips for Success With the Basketweave Stitch

Over the years I’ve taught this stitch to a lot of people, both in person and online, and the same few stumbling blocks come up again and again. Here’s what to watch out for.

Mind your stitch count. Because post stitches work around the post of a stitch rather than into the top, it can sometimes feel like you’ve “lost” a stitch or added an extra one. Count your stitches at the end of every row until you’ve got the pattern down. If your count is off, the panels will slowly drift and your basketweave will lose its clean grid.

Don’t skip the turning chain stitch. The turning chain at the beginning of each row acts as the first double crochet. When you work your last post stitch of the row, make sure you’re ending with a dc into the top of the turning chain from the previous row. It’s easy to skip this if you’re not paying attention, which will cause your edges to gradually slant inward.

Keep your tension consistent. Post stitches naturally have a tendency to pull tighter than regular double crochets because you’re wrapping the yarn around a slightly larger surface area — the whole post rather than just the top loop. Be conscious of this and try to keep your tension a little looser on post stitches if you notice your fabric starting to pull or pucker.

Use a smooth yarn for your first attempt. I mentioned this in the materials section, but it bears repeating. A smooth, light-colored yarn will help you see your stitches clearly and understand the structure of the pattern as it develops. Once you’re comfortable with it, you can absolutely branch out into textured yarns, but for learning purposes, simple is better.

The “wrong” side is actually beautiful. One of the most delightful things about the basketweave stitch is that the back of your work looks almost as good as the front. While the front shows raised ridges that read as vertical and horizontal bands, the back shows a subtler but equally lovely pattern of indented channels. Some crocheters intentionally display the “wrong” side for a more understated look. Don’t stress about which side is which — you really can’t go wrong.

How to Adjust the Pattern for Different Project Sizes

The basketweave stitch works in multiples of eight stitches. To calculate the chain length for any project:

Decide how wide you want your finished piece to be, then calculate how many stitches you need based on your gauge swatch. Round up or down to the nearest multiple of 8. Then add 3 for your turning chain. That’s your starting chain.

For example, if you want a blanket that’s 40 inches wide and your gauge is 14 stitches per 4 inches, you’d need approximately 140 stitches. 140 ÷ 8 = 17.5, so round to 144 stitches (18 × 8), then add 3 for a starting chain of 147.

For length, each full basketweave repeat (four rows of post stitches) takes up a certain amount of vertical space depending on your yarn and hook. Measure after a few repeats and project forward from there.

Yarn Recommendations for the Basketweave Stitch

I get asked about yarn choices constantly, so here are a few of my go-to options at different price points.

For an affordable worsted weight cotton, Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton is a longtime favorite. It’s smooth, it washes beautifully, and the stitch definition is excellent. For a soft, budget-friendly acrylic, Caron Simply Soft has a lovely drape and comes in a huge range of colors. If you want to splurge a little, Paintbox Simply DK in a doubled strand gives you a gorgeous, slightly heftier fabric with beautiful color payoff.

For chunky blankets worked with a larger hook, Bernat Blanket yarn creates a wonderfully plush fabric, though I’d suggest going up a needle size or two from the label recommendation to keep the fabric from getting too stiff — the basketweave stitch already creates a dense fabric, so giving it a little room to breathe helps.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is the basketweave stitch good for beginners?

It’s a great second-level stitch. I wouldn’t recommend it as an absolute first project, but if you’ve made a few dishcloths or a simple scarf and you’re comfortable with double crochet, you’re ready for it. The learning curve is mainly in understanding how post stitches work, and once that clicks, the rest flows naturally.

Can I use the basketweave stitch in the round?

Yes, but it requires a small adjustment. When working in rows, you naturally see both the front and back of your work, so the front and back post stitches alternate intuitively. When working in the round, you’re always looking at the front, so you have to think consciously about when to switch from FPdc to BPdc to keep the pattern correct. It’s absolutely doable, but I’d recommend mastering the flat version first.

Is the basketweave stitch reversible?

In a sense, yes. The front and back of the fabric both show textured patterns — they’re just mirror images of each other. Both sides are attractive and intentional-looking, which makes the stitch wonderful for scarves, blankets, and other items where both sides might be visible.

What if my panels are slanting or drifting?

This usually means the FPdc and BPdc groups are shifting by one stitch over time. Count your stitches and double-check that you’re working the post stitches directly above the corresponding stitches from the row below. A stitch marker on the first stitch of each group can help you stay aligned.

Final Thoughts

The crochet basketweave stitch is one of those techniques that genuinely changes how you think about what’s possible with a hook and some yarn. The moment it all comes together — when you can see those interlocking ridges developing row by row — is one of the most satisfying moments in crochet. I’ve made this stitch hundreds of times and it still makes me happy every single time.

If you give this pattern a try, I’d absolutely love to see what you make! Share your project photos with me on Instagram using the hashtag #Hoo