Quick & Easy Crochet Project: Whale Drawstring Bag
There is something deeply satisfying about finishing a crochet project that is both functional and adorable. If you have been looking for a weekend project that does not require a mountain of yarn or a decade of experience, you have landed in exactly the right place. This whale drawstring bag is one of those rare patterns that manages to be beginner-friendly, genuinely useful, and charming enough to make people stop and ask, “Wait, did you make that yourself?” The answer, of course, will be yes — and you will be thrilled to say it.
Whether you are making this for a child to carry their small treasures, as a gift bag for a seaside-themed birthday, a project bag for your own crafting supplies, or simply because you love whales and you love crochet, this pattern delivers on every front. It works up quickly, uses basic stitches you probably already know, and produces a finished piece that looks far more impressive than the effort it actually takes.
Let’s dive in — pun absolutely intended.
Why Crochet a Whale Drawstring Bag?
Before we get into materials and stitches, it is worth pausing to appreciate why this particular project is worth your time.
First, drawstring bags are endlessly practical. They can hold anything from toys and seashells to cosmetics, snacks, small gifts, or jewelry. A handmade drawstring bag has a warmth and personality that a store-bought alternative simply cannot replicate, and when that bag is shaped like a whale, it crosses over from “practical” into “genuinely delightful.”
Second, this project is a fantastic confidence builder. If you are newer to crochet, you will practice several foundational techniques — working in the round, increasing and decreasing, single crochets, and basic embellishment — all within a single, manageable project. By the time you pull the drawstring closed on your finished whale bag, you will have a much stronger grip on the fundamentals.
Third, it is fast. Depending on your pace and yarn weight, you can complete this project in a single long sitting or spread it comfortably across two evenings. There is real pleasure in starting and finishing something in the same week, maybe even the same weekend.
Finally, the whale shape is wonderfully forgiving. Slight variations in tension or minor counting errors tend to disappear into the organic, rounded shape of the body. Unlike geometric patterns where every stitch is on display, the gentle curves of a whale body are kind to imperfect work.
Materials You Will Need
One of the best things about this project is its low materials requirement. You do not need anything exotic or expensive. Here is what to gather before you begin.
Yarn: Worsted weight yarn works beautifully for this project. You will need approximately 100 to 150 yards of your main color (the body of the whale) and a small amount — perhaps 20 yards — of a contrasting color for the underbelly if you choose to include that detail. Cotton yarn is an excellent choice because it is sturdy, holds its shape well, and is easy to wash. Acrylic worsted weight yarn is equally valid and comes in a wider range of colors. Classic whale colors like deep navy, teal, slate grey, or charcoal look striking, but honestly, a sunshine yellow whale or a lavender one is equally wonderful.
Hook: A 5.0mm crochet hook pairs nicely with standard worsted weight cotton or acrylic. If your tension runs tight, go up half a size to 5.5mm. If your tension runs loose, try a 4.5mm. The finished bag does not need to be a precise size, so a little flexibility here is fine.
Safety eyes: Two 12mm black safety eyes give your whale a sweet, expressive face. If you are making this bag for a child under three years old, skip the safety eyes entirely and embroider the eyes instead using black yarn or embroidery floss. Safety eyes are a choking hazard for very young children.
Yarn needle: For weaving in ends and sewing any separate pieces together.
Scissors: Sharp embroidery scissors make clean cuts.
Stitch markers: Helpful for marking the beginning of rounds, especially if you are new to working in the round.
Drawstring cord: You can use a length of the same yarn (braided or doubled), a coordinating ribbon, a thin rope, or twisted cord. Approximately 40 to 50 inches gives you enough length to work with comfortably.
Gauge and Sizing
With worsted weight yarn and a 5.0mm hook, you should aim for roughly 14 single crochets and 16 rows equaling 4 inches. However, because this is a bag rather than a wearable garment, gauge is not critical. What matters more is that your fabric is firm enough not to be floppy. If your finished swatch feels too loose and airy, go down a hook size. You want a fabric with a little body to it.
The finished bag, using these materials, will be approximately 8 to 9 inches tall (including the tail) and about 7 inches wide at its widest point. This is a good size for a gift bag or a small project bag. If you want a larger bag, simply use bulky yarn with an appropriate hook, and the proportions will scale up naturally.
Understanding the Construction
Before jumping into the row-by-row pattern, it helps to understand how the whale bag is put together. The body is worked in continuous rounds starting from a magic ring, creating an oval base and then building upward into a cylindrical bag shape. The top of the bag has a drawstring channel worked into it. The tail is crocheted separately and sewn onto the back bottom of the bag. The pectoral fins (the small side fins) are crocheted as flat pieces and sewn on. The face — eyes and a simple smile — is added last.
This construction method means you can work the body all in one go without seaming, which is one of the things that makes this project so approachable and quick.
The Pattern
Abbreviations used:
MR = magic ring, sc = single crochet, inc = increase (2 sc in same stitch), dec = decrease (invisible decrease), sl st = slip stitch, ch = chain, BLO = back loop only, st = stitch, rnd = round.
Body of the Bag
Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc into ring. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: Sc 1, inc repeat around. (18 sts)
Rnd 4: Sc 2, inc repeat around. (24 sts)
Rnd 5: Sc 3, inc repeat around. (30 sts)
Rnd 6: Sc 4, inc repeat around. (36 sts)
Rnd 7: Sc 5, inc repeat around. (42 sts)
Rnd 8: Sc 6, inc repeat around. (48 sts)
At this point you have a flat circle that will form the bottom of your bag. Now work straight up the sides without increasing.
Rnds 9 through 28: Sc in each st around. (48 sts per round — work 20 rounds straight)
This creates the body of the bag. At this stage it should look like a simple tube with a closed base.
Drawstring Channel
Rnd 29: Ch 3, skip 1 st, ch 3, skip 1 st, sc in next st repeat around, ending with a sl st to join. This creates the eyelets through which your drawstring will thread.
Rnd 30: Sc in each st and ch-space around. (48 sts)
Rnds 31 and 32: Sc in each st around. (48 sts)
Fasten off and weave in your end. The top of the bag is now complete with a drawstring channel ready to use.
Whale Tail (Make 2 identical pieces)
Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: Sc 1, inc repeat around. (18 sts)
Rnd 4: Sc 2, inc repeat around. (24 sts)
Rnds 5 and 6: Sc around. (24 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Make two of these pieces. Hold them together and whipstitch around the outer edge, leaving the straight edge open. This creates one fluke of the tail. If you want a more dimensional tail, lightly stuff it before closing. Sew the finished tail to the bottom center back of the bag, positioning it so the flukes fan outward.
Pectoral Fins (Make 2)
Row 1: Ch 8, sc across. (7 sts)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, dec, sc 3, dec. (5 sts)
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, dec, sc 1, dec. (3 sts)
Row 4: Ch 1, turn, sc 3. (3 sts)
Row 5: Ch 1, turn, dec, sc 1. (2 sts)
Row 6: Ch 1, turn, dec. (1 st)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Sew the fins to the sides of the bag body, roughly in the middle of the bag’s height, angling them slightly downward and forward to give your whale a natural, swimming posture.
Underbelly (Optional)
If you want to add a lighter colored underbelly for a more realistic look, cut an oval of cream or white felt and hand-stitch it to the front of the bag. Alternatively, you can work a flat crochet oval in your contrasting color and sew it on. This is entirely optional but adds a charming detail.
Adding the Face
Insert your safety eyes on the upper front of the bag, roughly at round 24 or 25 (near the top of the bag body), spacing them about 2 inches apart. Lock the washers in place firmly on the inside of the bag. Once your safety eyes are in, use black embroidery floss or a strand of black yarn to embroider a simple curved smile beneath and between the eyes. Keep the smile gentle and upward — you want a happy whale, after all.
If you are embroidering the eyes instead of using safety eyes, use a small amount of black yarn and a satin stitch to create filled circles. Outline them with a tiny ring of white stitches if you want to give them a bit of sparkle.
Threading the Drawstring
Cut your drawstring cord to approximately 45 to 50 inches. Attach a safety pin to one end and use it to thread the cord through the eyelet row you created in round 29. Go in and out through each eyelet all the way around the bag until both ends come out through the same eyelet or from two adjacent ones. Tie the ends together in a knot or bow. When you pull the drawstring, the bag closes like a classic pouch — neat, secure, and satisfying.
If you want a double drawstring (which closes more securely and distributes tension more evenly), cut two cords and thread them from opposite sides, so each cord enters and exits from opposite points on the bag. Tie the ends of each cord together separately. Pull both loops to close.
Finishing Touches and Customization Ideas
This pattern is a wonderful base for personalization. Here are some ideas to make your whale bag uniquely yours.
You could add a tiny spout on top of the bag by crocheting a small bundle of blue yarn and looping it through the top edge — a charming detail that really sells the whale illusion. A simple cluster of chains looped and secured works perfectly.
Embroidering small bubbles near the face using white yarn adds a sweet underwater feel. Three or four small circles of chain stitch scattered near the mouth look lovely.
If you are making this as a gift bag, tuck in tissue paper and a small gift and let the recipient pull the drawstring open. The experience of opening a whale bag is genuinely fun.
For a nautical nursery theme, make a set of three in navy, coral, and sage green. They look beautiful lined up on a shelf, and they are endlessly practical for storing small toys, art supplies, and trinkets.
You can also adjust the scale dramatically. Make a tiny version using fingering weight yarn and a 2.0mm hook for a coin purse. Make a giant version using super bulky yarn for a beach bag that can hold towels and sunscreen.
Tips for Success
A few practical notes before you start stitching.
Always close your magic ring firmly before working round 2. A loose magic ring will leave a visible hole at the bottom of your bag that is difficult to fix later.
When working the body in continuous rounds, use a stitch marker to track the start of each round. It is very easy to lose count in round sections, and a marker takes the mental load away entirely.
If you find your bag is pulling or twisting slightly as you work up the sides, make sure you are not twisting your work when you move between rounds. Keep the piece oriented the same way throughout.
Blocking your finished bag — either by wet blocking or steam blocking, depending on your yarn fiber — will help it hold its shape beautifully. Cotton yarn in particular benefits from a good block.
Do not skip weaving in your ends securely. A bag gets a lot more handling than a decorative piece, and loose ends have a way of working themselves out over time.
A Few Words on Yarn Substitution
This pattern is very forgiving of yarn substitution. The only guidance worth keeping in mind is that cotton yarns will give you a firmer, more structured bag that holds its shape well even when empty. Acrylic yarns produce a slightly softer bag that drapes a little more. Both are excellent. Avoid very fuzzy or textured yarns for this project because the stitch definition matters — you want to see those clean increases and the neat eyelet row.
If you are buying yarn specifically for this project, look for labels that say “worsted” or “size 4” and double-check the recommended hook size on the label. It should suggest something in the 4.5mm to 5.5mm range for compatibility with this pattern.
Sharing Your Make
When you finish your whale bag, we would love to see it. If you share your make on Instagram or Pinterest, use the hashtag #whaledrawstringbag or #crochetwhalebag so fellow crafters can find your version and draw inspiration from it. The crochet community is one of the warmest, most generous communities on the internet, and there is real joy in sharing your finished makes.
If something in this pattern is unclear or if you find a clever modification that improves the design, leave a comment below. Patterns improve through the collective wisdom of everyone who makes them, and your feedback genuinely helps other crafters who come after you.
Happy crocheting. May your tension be even, your yarn never tangle, and your whale bag bring a little joy to wherever it ends up.
