Kato Drawstring Project Bag Pattern: Sew a Modern, Functional Bag You’ll Actually Use

If you’ve been searching for a beginner-friendly bag pattern that looks polished, works hard, and uses fabric you already love, you’ve found it. The Kato Drawstring Project Bag is one of those patterns that hits all the right notes — clean lines, a satisfying construction process, and an end result that’s genuinely useful whether you’re toting knitting supplies, art materials, toiletries, or your latest hand-stitching project. This post walks you through everything you need to know to sew your own Kato bag, including a video tutorial so you can see each step in action before you cut a single piece of fabric.

Let’s get into it.

What Is the Kato Drawstring Project Bag?

The Kato Drawstring Project Bag is a fully lined, structured drawstring bag designed with crafters, stitchers, and everyday organizers in mind. Unlike floppy single-layer drawstring pouches, the Kato has a flat base and a firm opening that keeps its shape when you set it down and makes it easy to reach inside — no wrestling with a collapsing mouth trying to find your scissors at the bottom of the bag.

The name “Kato” was chosen to evoke something modern and minimal, a bag that feels intentional rather than like a quick weekend throwaway project. It’s the kind of bag you’d be genuinely proud to pull out at a craft night or tuck into your carry-on for a long flight.

The finished bag measures approximately 10 inches wide by 11 inches tall (excluding the drawstring casing), with a flat base of about 3 inches. That depth makes a meaningful difference — it gives the bag real volume and lets it stand upright on a table or shelf. You can easily scale the pattern up or down by adjusting your cutting dimensions, which we’ll cover in the tips section later in this post.

Why Sew a Lined Drawstring Bag?

You might be wondering whether lining is really worth the extra steps, especially if you’ve sewn simpler drawstring pouches before. The answer, at least for this style of bag, is a very confident yes.

A lining accomplishes several things at once. It hides all your raw seams and construction details, giving the interior a clean, intentional look. It adds a layer of body to the bag walls, so the bag holds its shape better and doesn’t go limp with use. It also protects your projects from snagging on exposed seam allowances — which matters a lot if you’re storing yarn, embroidery thread, or delicate fabric inside.

The Kato pattern uses a simple turn-and-slip method to attach the lining, which means you don’t need any special tools or tricky invisible stitching. Once you’ve sewn this bag, you’ll have a transferable skill you can apply to dozens of other lined bag projects.

Supplies and Materials

Before you sit down at your machine, gather everything on this list. Having your materials prepped in advance makes the sewing process much smoother and more enjoyable.

Fabric

For the outer shell, you want something with a little weight and structure. A medium-weight quilting cotton works beautifully, especially if you interface it. Canvas, denim, or a linen-cotton blend will give you a slightly more structured result without any interfacing at all. Avoid very lightweight fabrics for the outer layer unless you plan to apply a full interfacing to both pieces — they’ll make the bag feel flimsy.

For the lining, quilting cotton is the go-to choice. Pick something that complements your outer fabric. This is a great opportunity to use a smaller-scale print or a contrasting solid if your outer fabric is bold.

You’ll need:

• Half a yard of outer fabric (this is enough for the main body pieces and the base)
• Half a yard of lining fabric
• A fat quarter or scrap of coordinating fabric if you want a contrasting casing panel (optional but lovely)
• One yard of woven fusible interfacing such as Pellon SF101 or similar (optional but recommended for quilting cotton outers)

Hardware and Notions

• Two pieces of rope, cord, or ribbon, each cut to approximately 60 inches. Cotton rope in a 5mm or 6mm diameter is a popular choice and gives the bag that satisfying, modern-minimalist look. You can also use grosgrain ribbon, leather cord, or paracord depending on the aesthetic you’re going for.
• A large blunt needle or bodkin for threading the drawstrings
• Matching thread
• Pins or Wonder Clips
• An iron and pressing surface — pressing is not optional here; it makes a real difference to the final look
• Basic sewing tools: rotary cutter or scissors, ruler, cutting mat, marking tool

Cutting Dimensions

Cut the following pieces:

Outer body: two rectangles, each 11 inches wide by 13 inches tall
Lining body: two rectangles, each 11 inches wide by 13 inches tall
Outer base: one rectangle, 11 inches wide by 4 inches tall
Lining base: one rectangle, 11 inches wide by 4 inches tall
Casing panels: two strips, each 11 inches wide by 3.5 inches tall (cut from outer fabric or a contrast fabric)

All measurements include a half-inch seam allowance throughout.

Watch the Video Tutorial

Before we walk through the written steps, take a few minutes to watch the video tutorial. Seeing the bag come together visually — especially the casing construction and the turn-and-slip lining attachment — makes the written instructions much easier to follow. The video covers every step from cutting through finishing, and includes close-up shots of the trickier moments like boxing the base corners and threading the drawstrings.

Ready to sew? Here’s the full step-by-step process.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Step 1: Interface Your Outer Pieces (Optional but Recommended)

If you’re using quilting cotton for the outer shell, apply fusible interfacing to the wrong side of both outer body rectangles and the outer base piece according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Press firmly for several seconds in each section, overlapping your iron passes slightly to ensure full adhesion. Let each piece cool before moving it. Interfacing at this stage will make every subsequent step cleaner and give your finished bag a much more structured look.

Step 2: Sew the Outer Body

Place your two outer body rectangles right sides together, aligning all edges. Pin or clip along both side edges and the bottom edge. Using a half-inch seam allowance, sew down one side, across the bottom, and up the other side, backstitch at the start and end. Leave the top edge open.

Press the seams open. This is worth the extra minute — pressed-open seams reduce bulk and give the bag a much cleaner look at the finished corners.

Step 3: Add the Outer Base

With the outer body right side out and the outer base piece right side facing in, align the long edge of the base with the bottom edge of the bag. You may need to ease the base piece around the corners slightly. Pin carefully and sew around all four sides of the base with a half-inch seam allowance, pivoting at each corner.

If this is your first time attaching a rectangular base, go slowly at the corners and don’t be afraid to stop with your needle down, lift the presser foot, pivot, and continue. Clip the corners of the seam allowance diagonally before turning, taking care not to cut through the stitching.

Press the seam allowance toward the base piece. Your outer bag shell is now complete. Set it aside.

Step 4: Sew the Lining

Repeat steps 2 and 3 using your lining pieces. The construction is identical. One important difference: leave a 4-inch opening along one side seam of the lining body. This gap is what you’ll use to turn the whole bag right side out at the end, so don’t skip it or make it smaller than 4 inches — you’ll thank yourself later.

Press the lining seams open just as you did with the outer, and press the seam allowance around the opening to the wrong side so it’s ready to slip-stitch closed at the finish.

Step 5: Make the Casing Panels

The casing is what channels the drawstring cord through the top of the bag, and making it a separate panel (rather than folding down the bag body itself) gives the Kato its distinctive, modern look.

Take each casing strip and fold it in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, so you have a long doubled strip that is 11 inches wide by about 1.75 inches tall. Press the fold. Then, open each strip and fold both raw long edges in to meet the center crease, press again, and refold along the original center crease. You now have a neatly enclosed strip with no raw edges showing. Press one final time so the strip lies perfectly flat.

These will be attached to the top of the outer bag before the lining goes in. Place each casing strip along the top raw edge of the outer bag front and back, aligning the raw bottom edge of the casing with the raw top edge of the bag. Baste in place within the seam allowance using a scant quarter-inch stitch. The folded top edge of each casing should be pointing down toward the bag base for now.

Step 6: Join the Outer and Lining

This is the most satisfying step in the whole process, because this is where the bag starts to look like itself.

Turn the outer bag shell right side out so the outer fabric is facing you. Slip the lining bag (still inside out, lining fabric facing out) down into the outer bag, so the right sides of the outer and lining are facing each other. The top raw edges of both bags should align. The casing strips are sandwiched between the outer bag and the lining.

Pin around the entire top opening, matching the side seams. Sew around the full circumference of the top with a half-inch seam allowance.

Now, reach through the opening you left in the lining side seam and slowly pull the entire bag through it. The bag will come right side out — outer fabric on the outside, lining inside, and the casing panels sitting neatly along the top. Take a moment to appreciate how well that works.

Step 7: Close the Lining and Press

Push the lining down into the bag and use your fingers to push out the seams and base corners from the inside. Press the top edge of the bag firmly, rolling the seam so the lining sits just inside the edge and doesn’t peek out from the outside.

Now slip-stitch the opening in the lining closed by hand, or sew it shut by machine close to the folded edge. Both methods work well; hand sewing is a little more invisible.

Press the top seam one more time, then topstitch around the entire top opening approximately one-eighth of an inch from the edge. This secures the lining, reinforces the seam, and gives the top edge a crisp, finished look.

Step 8: Stitch the Casing Channel

The casing panels are attached at the bottom but free at the top. Fold the casing up now so it sits above the bag opening, with the raw-basted edge tucked inside the seam you just stitched and the folded top edge of the casing facing up. Press the casing upward so it lies flat.

Topstitch along the top folded edge of each casing panel to secure it in place. Then stitch a second parallel line approximately one inch below the first, all the way around the front and back of the bag. This second line of stitching creates the channel that the drawstring cord will pass through.

Before you close the channel ends, use a seam ripper to carefully open a small hole at each side seam of the casing — these are the entry and exit points for your drawstrings.

Step 9: Thread the Drawstrings

Attach each cord to your bodkin or thread it through a large safety pin. Thread one cord through the entire casing channel, entering from the left side seam opening, going all the way around the bag, and exiting at the same left side opening. Tie the cord ends together in an overhand knot or a reef knot.

Thread the second cord in the same way, but start and end at the right side seam opening.

When you pull both cords in opposite directions, the bag closes evenly on both sides — this is the classic two-cord drawstring closure method, and it’s much more satisfying to use than a single-cord closure.

Tips for the Best Results

A few things learned from making multiple versions of this bag that are worth passing on.

Press at every single step, not just at the end. The difference between a bag that looks homemade and one that looks handmade is almost entirely in the pressing. Use a hot iron and a bit of steam, and press every seam the moment you sew it.

Cut carefully. Accurate cutting means accurate seams, which means a bag that lies flat, closes evenly, and has a square base. Take the extra two minutes to measure twice and cut once.

Choose your cord thoughtfully. Five-millimeter cotton rope is the most popular choice for this bag because it’s soft, knots beautifully, and looks clean against almost any fabric. But waxed linen cord gives a more rustic feel, satin ribbon gives an elegant touch, and leather cord gives a structured, modern result. The bag looks completely different depending on what cord you use, so pick something that reflects the aesthetic you’re going for.

Don’t skip the topstitching. It isn’t just decorative — it holds the lining in place and keeps the bag looking crisp after washing.

Prewash your fabric. If you’re making a bag that might need washing (project bags get used hard), prewash your fabric before cutting so it’s already done its shrinking.

Ways to Customize the Kato Bag

This pattern is a genuinely wonderful canvas for customization. Some ideas to get you thinking:

Make a set in graduating sizes — a small Kato for thread and notions, a standard Kato for project supplies, and an oversized version for larger items. Use the same fabric across all three for a coordinated look.

Add a small exterior pocket to one of the outer body pieces before assembling the shell. A simple patch pocket with a button closure is an easy addition that significantly increases the bag’s usefulness.

Use a feature fabric panel in the center of each outer body piece, flanked by solid panels on either side, for a medallion effect. This is a great way to showcase a beloved print without needing a large quantity of it.

Swap the cotton rope for long leather handles to make a tote-style version. Simply skip the casing construction, finish the top edge cleanly, and attach handles instead of threading a drawstring.

Make a holiday version with festive fabric and velvet ribbon drawstrings. These make wonderful handmade gifts that people actually use — far more practical and personal than a gift bag.

The Kato Bag as a Gift

Speaking of gifts: if you’ve been looking for a handmade gift that’s genuinely useful and doesn’t take weeks to make, the Kato is one of the best options in your repertoire. One bag can be sewn in an afternoon once you’re comfortable with the construction. Fill it with coordinating craft supplies, a favorite hand cream, or a few specialty teas for a thoughtful, personalized gift. The bag itself does a lot of the talking — it communicates care and intentionality in a way that a store-bought tote simply can’t.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use a fat quarter for the outer fabric? A fat quarter (18 inches by 22 inches) is just barely enough for the standard size if you’re very strategic with your cutting layout. It’s easier to work with half a yard and have the flexibility to recut if needed.

What’s the best interfacing for this pattern? Pellon SF101 Shape-Flex is a popular choice because it adds structure without making the fabric stiff. If you want a firmer bag, Pellon Décor Bond or Thermolam is a good step up.

Can I sew this entirely by hand? The construction is machine-friendly by design, but yes — a patient hand sewer using a backstitch could absolutely construct this bag without a machine. The casing topstitching and the lining closure are the easiest parts to do by hand.

How do I wash the finished bag? Machine wash on a gentle cycle in cold water and reshape while damp. Avoid the dryer if you’ve used canvas or rope cord, as both can shrink or distort with high heat.

Can I sell bags made from this pattern? Please check the pattern’s individual licensing terms, which will be clearly noted with the pattern download.

Final Thoughts

The Kato Drawstring Project Bag earns its place in your pattern collection because it’s genuinely more than the sum of its parts. The construction is logical and builds good skills. The finished bag is versatile enough to use in a dozen different contexts. And the process itself — cutting beautiful fabric, pressing clean seams, watching a lined bag come together from flat pieces — is exactly the