How to Knit the Basket Weave Stitch: Diagonal Braided + Woven
Few knitting patterns manage to look as impressive as they are satisfying to work. The basket weave stitch is one of those timeless techniques that beginners find approachable and experienced knitters return to again and again because the result — that gorgeous interlaced, dimensional texture — never gets old. When you add a diagonal braided twist to the classic woven structure, the fabric takes on a whole new level of visual richness: it looks handwoven, complex, and artisanal, yet it knits up with a surprisingly simple repeat once you understand the logic behind it.
In this guide, you’ll learn everything you need to know about the diagonal braided and woven basket weave stitch, from understanding the foundational technique to working through the stitch pattern row by row. Whether you’re planning a cozy throw blanket, a textured cowl, a dishcloth, or a statement pillow cover, this stitch will transform your project into something that looks like it came from a high-end boutique.
Let’s get into it.
What Is the Basket Weave Stitch?
The traditional basket weave stitch mimics the over-under interlacing of wicker or woven reeds. It’s achieved through a combination of knit and purl stitches arranged in alternating blocks. The result is a reversible (or near-reversible) fabric that has raised and recessed sections, creating the illusion of vertical and horizontal strips woven through one another.
The diagonal braided variation takes this concept a step further. Instead of keeping the blocks perfectly vertical and horizontal, the pattern shifts the blocks on a diagonal, so the raised sections travel across the fabric at an angle, giving the finished piece a braided, rope-like quality that is even more tactile and dynamic than the classic version.
The woven element refers to the way the fabric feels in hand — dense, structured, and substantial, much like a woven textile rather than a typical stretchy knit. This makes the stitch ideal for items where you want the knitting to hold its shape, like home décor pieces, bags, and accessories.
Why Knitters Love This Stitch
There are many reasons this variation of the basket weave stitch has developed such a devoted following in the knitting community.
First, there’s the visual payoff. From even a small swatch, you can see how the diagonal movement of the blocks creates a sense of motion and depth that flat stockinette simply cannot match. Photographed or seen in person, it draws attention.
Second, it’s meditative to work. Once you’ve completed a few repeats and internalized the rhythm, your hands move almost automatically. The pattern has enough variation to keep you engaged, but it’s not so complicated that you need to track every stitch obsessively.
Third, the stitch is incredibly versatile in terms of yarn choice. It reads beautifully in smooth yarns where the textural definition can really shine, but it also has a wonderful softness when worked in plant fibers like cotton, which drape slightly and make the woven texture even more apparent. Wool gives it structure and warmth. Even a simple acrylic sport weight yarn can produce stunning results.
Fourth, this is a stitch that ages well. It doesn’t look dated. A basket weave blanket made today will look just as elegant in twenty years.
Materials You’ll Need
Before you cast on, gather your supplies. The beauty of this stitch is that you don’t need anything special beyond your basic knitting kit.
Yarn choice matters here more than in some other patterns. Because the stitch relies on the contrast between raised knit sections and recessed purl sections, you’ll see the most definition with a smooth, plied yarn rather than a fuzzy or highly textured one. A good merino wool, cotton, or wool blend in a worsted or bulky weight is ideal for beginners learning this pattern, since the larger stitches make the structure easy to read as you work.
For needles, use the size recommended on your yarn’s label, or go up one size if you want a slightly more relaxed, drapey result. The basket weave stitch tends to pull in slightly due to the density of the knit and purl columns, so working with needles a half or full size larger than you might normally use is a common trick.
A tapestry needle is useful for weaving in ends at the finish. Stitch markers can be helpful when you’re first learning the repeat, so you can clearly see where each block begins and ends. A row counter, whether a physical one or an app on your phone, is also a valuable tool since you’ll be tracking which row within the repeat you’re on.
Understanding the Structure: Blocks and Diagonals
Before you start knitting, it helps to understand the geometry of what you’re about to create. The basket weave stitch, at its core, is built from rectangular blocks of knit stitches set against a background of purl stitches (or vice versa). In the classic version, these blocks sit in a checkerboard-style arrangement.
In the diagonal braided version, the block arrangement shifts. After a set number of rows, the blocks don’t simply repeat in the same position — they step over by one or two stitches, so the block that was sitting on the left of a section moves to the right on the next repeat. This stepping creates the diagonal line that gives the braided effect.
Imagine laying strips of wicker at a slight angle rather than perfectly perpendicular. That’s the visual effect this shift produces. Each column of raised stitches moves diagonally across the fabric as the work grows, and the columns interlock visually just as if they were braided together.
The woven quality comes from the ratio and proportion of the blocks. When the knit blocks and purl blocks are roughly equal in size — say, four stitches wide and four rows tall — the fabric achieves that perfect balance of give and structure that mimics woven cloth.
The Stitch Pattern: Step by Step
The following pattern is written for a multiple of 8 stitches plus 4. This means your cast-on number should be 12, 20, 28, 36, 44, and so on. For a practice swatch, casting on 20 stitches is a great starting point.
A standard 4-stitch by 4-row block is used here, and the diagonal shift happens every 4 rows, moving the pattern 2 stitches to the right with each repeat. This produces a clear, clean diagonal braid across the surface of the fabric.
Abbreviations:
K = knit
P = purl
RS = right side
WS = wrong side
Cast on a multiple of 8 stitches plus 4. For your swatch, cast on 20 stitches.
Row 1 (RS): K4, P4, K4; repeat from to end.
Row 2 (WS): P4, K4, P4; repeat from to end.
Row 3 (RS): Repeat Row 1.
Row 4 (WS): Repeat Row 2.
These first four rows establish your first set of blocks. At this point, you have worked one full block repeat in height and the fabric should already show a hint of the raised and recessed structure.
Now the diagonal shift begins.
Row 5 (RS): K2, P4, K4; repeat from to last 2 stitches, P2.
Row 6 (WS): K2, P4, K4; repeat from to last 2 stitches, P2.
Row 7 (RS): Repeat Row 5.
Row 8 (WS): Repeat Row 6.
Notice how the blocks have shifted by 2 stitches compared to Rows 1 through 4. This is the diagonal movement happening in real time.
Row 9 (RS): P4, K4, P4; repeat from to end.
Row 10 (WS): K4, P4, K4; repeat from to end.
Row 11 (RS): Repeat Row 9.
Row 12 (WS): Repeat Row 10.
The blocks have now shifted again. If you look at the right side of your work, you should be able to see the diagonal path the raised columns are taking across the fabric.
Row 13 (RS): P2, K4, P4; repeat from to last 2 stitches, K2.
Row 14 (WS): P2, K4, P4; repeat from to last 2 stitches, K2.
Row 15 (RS): Repeat Row 13.
Row 16 (WS): Repeat Row 14.
This completes one full 16-row repeat of the diagonal braided basket weave pattern. To continue, simply repeat Rows 1 through 16 until your piece reaches the desired length, then bind off in pattern.
Tips for Working This Stitch Successfully
The most common point of confusion for knitters new to this pattern is keeping track of which row within the repeat they’re on. The blocks shift every four rows, so if you lose your place, the diagonal line can get interrupted and the braid effect breaks down. Using a row counter and placing a stitch marker after every 8th stitch on your needle when you cast on are both habits that will save you frustration.
When working the wrong side rows, remember that what you’re doing is the opposite of what you see. If you’re looking at a raised (knit) column on the right side, the wrong side of that column is purl. Always read your knitting as you go — the stitches themselves will tell you what to do if you’ve learned to recognize knit stitches (with their smooth V shape) and purl stitches (with the bump at the base).
Tension is particularly important in this stitch. Because you’re switching back and forth between knit and purl frequently, there’s a tendency for some knitters to pull the yarn too tightly at the transition points, which can make those edges look uneven. Consciously relax your grip as you switch from one stitch type to the other. If unevenness persists, try holding the yarn slightly looser overall or going up a needle size.
Blocking makes a dramatic difference with this stitch. Before you block, the fabric may look a little compact and the diagonal braid might not pop as clearly as you’d like. After a wet block — soaking the piece in cool water, gently pressing out the excess moisture in a towel, and laying it flat to dry — the stitches even out, the fabric relaxes, and the full texture of the diagonal pattern becomes beautifully visible. For cotton or plant fiber yarns, blocking is especially transformative.
Gauge and Sizing Considerations
Because the basket weave stitch draws in horizontally (the knit and purl columns contract the width), your gauge swatch will likely measure narrower than you’d expect for the same needle and yarn combination worked in stockinette. Always knit a swatch in the basket weave pattern itself rather than in stockinette when you’re planning a project with specific size requirements.
For a throw blanket, a cast-on of around 100 to 120 stitches in a bulky yarn on 9 or 10mm needles will give you a generous width. For a dishcloth or washcloth, 28 to 36 stitches on 4mm or 4.5mm needles in cotton is a nice working range. For a scarf or cowl, 28 to 44 stitches depending on the width you want is ideal — the diagonal braid looks especially striking on narrow accessories because the eye can follow the full diagonal movement from edge to edge.
Project Ideas for the Diagonal Braided Basket Weave Stitch
Once you’ve practiced the stitch on a swatch and feel comfortable with the repeat, the applications are nearly limitless.
A textured throw blanket worked in a chunky merino or wool blend is probably the most popular use for this stitch, and for good reason. The diagonal braid creates a fabric that looks like it was woven on a loom, and the weight and drape of a heavy yarn make the texture even more pronounced. Working in a neutral like cream, oatmeal, or charcoal gives the texture room to shine without competition from color variation.
Pillow covers are another wonderful project. Because the stitch creates a fairly dense, structured fabric, it holds up beautifully to the wear and compression that a frequently used cushion experiences. A 40 to 50 stitch cast-on in DK or worsted weight will give you the front panel; you can work the back in simple garter or stockinette for contrast, or use a second panel of basket weave.
Market bags and tote bags in cotton take on a beautiful rigid structure with this stitch, making them practical as well as good-looking. The woven quality of the fabric means the bag holds its shape even when full, and cotton’s durability means it will last for years.
Dishcloths and washcloths are ideal beginner projects for this stitch because they’re small, inexpensive to make, and genuinely useful. Working one or two dishcloths is a low-stakes way to get the pattern into your muscle memory before you commit to a larger project.
Scarves and cowls let the diagonal braid do something particularly elegant: because the accessory wraps around the neck, the diagonal movement of the stitch creates a spiral effect that looks almost architectural. A 44-stitch scarf or a 56-stitch cowl, worked until long enough to seam into a loop, makes a stunning handmade gift.
Variations to Try Once You’re Comfortable
After you’ve worked several repeats and feel confident with the basic diagonal braided pattern, there are a few variations worth exploring.
Changing the block size is the simplest adjustment. Instead of a 4-stitch by 4-row block, try a 6-stitch by 6-row block for a bolder, chunkier effect, or a 2-stitch by 2-row block for a finer, more subtle diagonal weave. Each change in block proportion produces a distinctly different visual rhythm.
Combining two colors is a beautiful option for more advanced knitters. By working the knit blocks in one color and the purl blocks in another through a form of intarsia or by simply carrying the second color loosely behind the work, you can create a fabric that looks literally woven from two separate strands. The diagonal shift then makes those two colors appear to braid around each other.
Adding a twisted stitch at the column edges gives the braid an even more defined outline. To do this, work the first stitch of each knit column as a knit-through-the-back-loop (k-tbl) stitch. This creates a slightly twisted, rope-like edge to each raised section that makes the braid look even more intentional and precise.
Final Thoughts
The diagonal braided and woven basket weave stitch is one of those patterns that rewards patience and attention with a result far more impressive than the effort it requires. The 16-row repeat looks intimidating written out, but once your hands learn the rhythm of the 4-row blocks shifting across the fabric, it becomes genuinely enjoyable to work — the kind of knitting you reach for at the end of a long day because it’s engaging without being stressful.
Whether you’re a knitter who’s been at it for decades or someone still working through their first few projects, this stitch offers something meaningful: a tangible sense of craft. The fabric you produce with this technique doesn’t look mass-produced. It looks made, deliberately and with skill, by a person who cares about what they create.
Cast on a small swatch today, work through the 16 rows, and hold it up to the light. You’ll immediately see the diagonal braid traveling across the fabric, the blocks interlocking just like wicker, the surface rising and falling in that rhythmic woven pattern. At that point, the only challenge will be deciding what to make first.
Happy knitting.
