How to Knit an Easy Drawstring Pouch / Bag – Simple & Practical ✨

There is something deeply satisfying about knitting a small project that you can actually use every day. A drawstring pouch sits in that sweet spot between quick and rewarding — it works up fast enough to hold your attention, yet produces something genuinely practical that you will reach for again and again. Whether you need a little bag to carry your crystals, hold a gift, protect your earbuds, or stash your knitting notions, this project has you covered. Best of all, it is perfectly suited to beginner and intermediate knitters alike.

In this tutorial, you will learn exactly how to knit a simple drawstring pouch from cast-on to finishing. We will cover the materials you need, the stitches involved, a step-by-step pattern, tips for customizing the size, and ideas for making it your own. Grab your needles and let us get started.

Why You Will Love This Project

Before we dive into the pattern itself, it is worth talking about why the drawstring pouch is such a beloved knitting project in the first place.

For beginners, it offers a gentle introduction to knitting in the round, decreasing, and creating an i-cord or twisted drawstring — all fundamental skills that will serve you well in every project that follows. For more experienced knitters, it is the kind of fast, meditative make that you can pick up between larger projects when you want to keep your hands busy without committing to something complex.

A drawstring pouch is also wonderfully gift-able. Tuck a bar of soap inside, fill it with bath salts, drop in a piece of jewelry, or use it as an eco-friendly gift wrap for a small present. People are always delighted to receive something handmade, and a knitted bag has a warmth and texture that no store-bought packaging can replicate.

Finally, the small scale of this project makes it ideal for using up leftover yarn. If you have scraps sitting in a basket from larger projects, a drawstring pouch is one of the best ways to give those odds and ends a second life.

Materials You Will Need

One of the beauties of this project is how little you need to get started. Here is a simple supply list.

Yarn: Approximately 50–100 grams of worsted weight yarn (sometimes labeled as Aran weight) works beautifully for a standard-sized pouch. This project is very forgiving about yarn choice — wool, cotton, acrylic, or a blend will all produce lovely results. If you want a more structured bag, cotton is a great choice since it holds its shape well. If you want something soft and stretchy, a wool or wool-blend yarn will feel wonderful in the hand.

Needles: US size 7 (4.5mm) double-pointed needles (DPNs) work well for worsted weight yarn. You will typically need a set of four or five DPNs. Alternatively, if you prefer to work with a short circular needle (9″ or 16″), that works equally well for knitting in the round. Magic loop is another option if you are already comfortable with that technique.

Notions: A tapestry needle for weaving in ends, a stitch marker to mark the beginning of your round, scissors, and a ruler or tape measure.

Optional: A few yards of contrasting yarn or thin cord for the drawstring itself. You can also knit an i-cord drawstring from the same yarn as the bag, which gives a very cohesive, intentional look.

Understanding the Basic Construction

This drawstring pouch is worked from the bottom up, in the round. That means you will start at the very base of the bag, work upward in a tube, create eyelets for the drawstring near the top, and then finish off with a simple bind-off. There is no seaming involved, which makes the finishing process wonderfully clean.

If you have never worked in the round before, do not worry. The concept is straightforward: instead of turning your work at the end of each row, you simply keep going in one direction, creating a seamless tube of fabric. This is what gives socks, hats, and small bags their smooth, clean look on the inside and outside.

Let us talk briefly about gauge before we dive in. For this project, gauge is not critically important — a slightly looser or tighter gauge will simply result in a slightly larger or smaller pouch. However, if you want your bag to match the dimensions described here, aim for approximately 18 stitches and 24 rows to 4 inches (10 cm) in stockinette stitch on size 7 needles. Always swatch if you want a precise size.

The Pattern: Easy Knit Drawstring Pouch

Finished Dimensions (approximate)

About 5 inches wide and 6 inches tall before the drawstring is pulled closed. This makes a versatile everyday-sized pouch. For a smaller sachet or coin purse, you can cast on fewer stitches. For a larger tote-style bag, simply increase the stitch count and work more rows.

Step One: Cast On and Set Up Your Round

Cast on 36 stitches using your preferred method. A long-tail cast on is a great choice here because it is tidy and has a little stretch built in. Divide your stitches evenly across three or four double-pointed needles — for example, 12 stitches on each of three needles, or 9 stitches on each of four needles.

Before you join to work in the round, take a moment to make sure that your cast-on edge is not twisted. Lay your needles flat on a table and check that all the stitches face the same direction, with the working yarn hanging down from the right needle. A twisted join is one of the most common beginner mistakes in circular knitting, and it is much easier to fix before you have started than several rounds in.

Once you are satisfied that everything is lined up correctly, place a stitch marker on the right needle to mark the beginning of your round, and join to work in the round by knitting the first stitch of the cast-on with your working yarn. This first stitch joins the circle.

Step Two: Work the Bottom Increase Rounds (optional but recommended)

If you want a flat, rounded base for your pouch rather than a gathered one, you can work a few increase rounds at the very start. However, if you prefer a simpler approach or want a gathered bottom like a traditional sachet, you can skip this step and simply knit every round from the start.

For a gathered bottom: Simply begin knitting in stockinette stitch (every round knit, since you are working in the round) from your cast-on round. The bottom of your bag will naturally gather slightly when the drawstring is pulled at the top, and that is perfectly charming.

For a more structured base: On round 1, knit every stitch. On round 2, work a (knit 1, make 1) repeat across the round — this will bring your stitch count to 54. Then work three plain knit rounds before continuing. This creates a slightly wider base that sits more neatly when the bag is set down.

For this tutorial, we will continue with the simpler 36-stitch version and a gathered base, which is the most accessible option for knitters at all levels.

Step Three: Knit the Body of the Pouch

With your 36 stitches cast on and joined, knit every round in plain stockinette stitch. This is the most satisfying part of the project — round after round of smooth, meditative knitting that grows steadily into a little tube.

Continue knitting every round until the body of your pouch measures approximately 5 inches from the cast-on edge. You can measure by holding your work up and running a tape measure from the bottom to the needle.

Want to add texture? This is a wonderful place to experiment. Instead of plain stockinette, try working two rounds of knit and two rounds of purl alternately to create a simple striped rib texture. Or try seed stitch by alternating knit and purl stitches within each round and offsetting them on the following round. A 1×1 rib (alternating knit 1, purl 1) creates a lovely stretchy fabric that hugs whatever is inside the pouch. Any of these stitch patterns work beautifully at this stage without changing the basic construction at all.

Step Four: Create the Eyelet Round for the Drawstring

This is the step that transforms a plain tube into a drawstring bag, and it is simpler than it looks. The eyelets are small, intentional holes that your drawstring will thread through.

When your pouch body measures approximately 5 inches, work one round in the following eyelet pattern:

(Knit 2, yarn over, knit 2 together) — repeat this four-stitch sequence all the way around.

A yarn over creates a new stitch (the hole), and the knit 2 together decreases the stitch count by one, so the two actions cancel each other out and your total stitch count stays at 36. This round will create 9 evenly spaced eyelets around the top of your pouch.

After the eyelet round, work 3–4 more rounds of plain stockinette to create a small hem or cuff above the eyelets. This gives the bag a polished, finished look at the top edge and adds a little stability around the drawstring channel.

Step Five: Bind Off

When your pouch measures about 6 inches total (or slightly more if you added a cuff), it is time to bind off.

Use a standard knit bind-off: knit the first two stitches, then pass the first stitch over the second and off the needle. Knit one more stitch, pass the previous stitch over it, and continue in this way until all stitches have been bound off. Try not to bind off too tightly, as a tight bind-off can make the opening of the bag difficult to stretch open. If you tend to bind off tightly, try using a needle one size larger than your working needles for the bind-off row.

Cut the yarn, leaving a tail of about 6 inches, and pull the tail through the last loop to secure it.

Step Six: Close the Bottom of the Pouch

Thread your tapestry needle with the cast-on tail. Run the needle through each of the cast-on stitches all the way around the bottom edge of the bag, drawing them together like a gathered circle. Pull the tail gently but firmly to close the bottom, and then take a few small stitches to anchor the closure securely. Weave in the end on the wrong side.

This step closes the bottom of your pouch into a neat gathered circle that will hold the contents of the bag without anything slipping out.

Step Seven: Make and Thread the Drawstring

Now for the finishing touch — the drawstring itself.

Option one: I-cord drawstring. Using two double-pointed needles (or just two regular needles), cast on 3 stitches. Knit across, but instead of turning your work, slide the stitches to the other end of the needle. Pull the working yarn snugly across the back and knit again from the right side. Continue in this way, never turning, until your i-cord measures about 14–16 inches. Bind off and weave in the ends. The i-cord will naturally roll into a neat tube as you work. This is a lovely technique and produces a beautiful, coordinated drawstring.

Option two: Twisted cord. Cut several strands of yarn about three times the desired finished length of your drawstring. Fold them in half, attach one end to a fixed point (a door handle works well), twist the folded yarn in one direction until it is very tightly twisted, then fold the twisted length in half and let it twist back on itself to form a thicker, two-ply cord. Knot the ends. This is fast, requires no extra knitting, and looks wonderfully handcrafted.

Option three: Use a pre-made ribbon, cord, or leather lace. There is absolutely nothing wrong with this approach, and it can add a beautiful contrast to your knitted fabric.

Once your drawstring is ready, thread it through the eyelets using a tapestry needle or a safety pin. Start at the same eyelet where you will finish, so both ends of the drawstring emerge from the same hole and can be pulled together to close the bag. Knot the ends of the drawstring together, or make two separate end knots to prevent fraying.

Step Eight: Weave in All Ends

Take a few minutes to weave in any remaining yarn tails using your tapestry needle. Weave each tail in different directions on the wrong side of the fabric to prevent them from working loose over time. Trim close to the fabric. Give your pouch a gentle block if desired — a quick wet block will even out your stitches and open up the eyelets beautifully.

Customizing Your Drawstring Pouch

One of the best things about this pattern is how infinitely adaptable it is. Here are a few ideas to make the project your own.

Change the size. Cast on more stitches for a larger bag, or fewer for a tiny sachet or coin purse. Just make sure your stitch count is divisible by four so the eyelet round works out evenly.

Try different yarn weights. A fingering weight yarn on smaller needles will create a delicate, refined pouch perfect for jewelry. A chunky yarn on larger needles will produce a quick, substantial bag in almost no time.

Add stripes. Change colors every few rounds to create a striped body. Carry the unused color loosely up the inside of the bag between color changes, or simply cut and weave in ends as you go.

Embellish the finished bag. Embroider a small motif on the front, add a few beads or buttons, or attach a tassel to the ends of the drawstring for a boho flair.

Try a different stitch pattern. A lace panel, a cable running up the center front, or a textured all-over pattern like seed stitch will all elevate the basic design into something truly special.

Tips for Success

A few small things can make a big difference when knitting this project.

Keep your tension consistent, especially when transitioning between needles on DPNs. Loose stitches at needle junctions are common for beginners, but they even out with practice. A trick is to knit the first two stitches of a new needle slightly more firmly than usual.

Don’t rush the eyelet round. Read through it once before you begin, and count your stitches at the end of the round to make sure you still have 36. If your count is off, it is usually because a yarn over was accidentally dropped.

Block your finished pouch. Even a quick steam block makes a remarkable difference to the look of the finished fabric, opening up the stitches and giving the whole project a professional quality.

A Few Words About Yarn Choice

Cotton is the hands-down favorite for knitted bags because it is sturdy, washable, and holds its shape beautifully. Look for a smooth, plied cotton rather than a single-ply version, which can be splitty and frustrating to work with. Paintbox Yarns Cotton Aran, Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton, and Paintbox Simply DK are all lovely, affordable options that come in a huge range of colors.

Wool and wool-blend yarns create a softer, cozier pouch with a beautiful drape. They work especially well for gift pouches or jewelry bags where a little give and softness is desirable. If you want the bag to be washable, choose a superwash wool.

Acrylic yarns are budget-friendly and come in an enormous range of colors. They produce a sturdy, easy-care fabric that is ideal if the bag will be used hard and washed frequently.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I knit this pouch flat instead of in the round? Yes, absolutely. Cast on your stitches and work flat in stockinette stitch, alternating knit and purl rows. When you finish, seam the side and bottom with a mattress stitch. The construction is slightly different but the result is the same.

How do I fix a dropped stitch in the round? Use a crochet hook to pick up the dropped stitch from below, pulling each ladder of yarn through in turn until the stitch is back on your needle. It is easier than it sounds and gets more natural with practice.

What if I cannot find DPNs? You can use a short 9-inch circular needle, or work magic loop on a longer circular needle. Both are perfectly valid alternatives.

How do I make the pouch larger? Simply cast on a multiple of four stitches — try 48 or 60 for a bigger bag — and work more rounds before the eyelet row.

Final Thoughts

Knitting a drawstring pouch is one of those projects that reminds you why you fell in love with knitting in the first place. It is fast enough to be satisfying, useful enough to be meaningful, and simple enough to be genuinely relaxing. Whether you make one for yourself or as a heartfelt