Easy Crochet Drawstring Pouch Pattern + Video Tutorial
Whether you’re a beginner looking for your first completed project or an experienced crocheter wanting a quick and satisfying make, this easy crochet drawstring pouch is exactly what you need. It’s functional, adorable, and endlessly customizable. Use it as a gift bag, a coin purse, a jewelry holder, a dice bag for game night, or a small project bag to hold your hooks and yarn. The possibilities are genuinely endless, and the best part? You can finish one in an afternoon.
In this post, you’ll find the complete written pattern, tips for customizing your pouch, yarn and hook recommendations, and a video tutorial to walk you through every step. Let’s get started.
Why You’ll Love This Pattern
Before we dive into the materials list, let’s talk about why this little pouch has become one of those go-to patterns that crocheters come back to again and again.
First, it’s genuinely beginner-friendly. If you know how to make a magic ring, single crochet, and chain stitch, you have every skill you need to complete this project. There’s no complicated stitch work, no counting nightmares, and no seaming involved. You work the bottom of the pouch in the round, then transition to working in rows (or continuing in the round, depending on the version you choose), add eyelets for your drawstring, and you’re done.
Second, it’s a stash buster. This pattern uses a relatively small amount of yarn, which makes it perfect for using up those odd skeins you’ve been holding onto. A single ball of medium weight yarn is more than enough for one pouch, and if you want to get creative, you can stripe it with two or three colors from your stash.
Third, it makes a wonderful handmade gift. Tuck a little candle, some chocolates, a gift card, or a small piece of jewelry inside, cinch the drawstring, and you have a present that feels intentional and thoughtful. People love receiving handmade things, especially when they’re as charming as this.
Materials You’ll Need
Here’s everything you’ll need to gather before you start:
Yarn: Approximately 80–120 yards of worsted weight yarn (size 4). Cotton yarn works beautifully for a structured, clean look. Acrylic is great for softness and affordability. Wool gives a lovely rustic feel. For a beginner, a smooth yarn in a light to medium color is recommended so you can easily see your stitches.
Hook: 5.0 mm (H/8) crochet hook, or the size recommended on your yarn label. If your stitches tend to be tight, go up half a size. If they tend to be loose, go down half a size.
Notions: Yarn needle for weaving in ends, scissors, two lengths of coordinating ribbon or cording for your drawstring (each about 24 inches long), and a stitch marker to mark the beginning of your rounds.
Gauge: Approximately 14 single crochets and 16 rows = 4 inches. Gauge isn’t critical for this project since it’s not a fitted item, but keeping it consistent will give you a neater finished pouch.
Finished Size
This pattern creates a pouch that measures approximately 5 inches wide and 6 inches tall (before cinching the drawstring). If you want a larger bag, simply add more stitches to your foundation round or continue adding rows to the body. For a smaller coin-purse size, start with fewer stitches and work fewer rounds. The pattern is easy to scale up or down.
Abbreviations Used
Throughout this pattern, the following standard US crochet abbreviations are used:
ch = chain
sl st = slip stitch
sc = single crochet
sc2tog = single crochet two together (decrease)
MR = magic ring (also called magic circle)
st = stitch
sp = space
rnd = round
rep = repeat
BLO = back loop only
Special Stitches
Single Crochet Two Together (sc2tog): Insert hook into the next stitch and pull up a loop (2 loops on hook). Insert hook into the following stitch and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook). Yarn over and draw through all 3 loops. This creates one stitch from two, and you’ll use it to shape the bottom of the pouch.
Working in the Back Loop Only (BLO): When a round or row calls for BLO, insert your hook under only the back loop of each stitch rather than under both loops. This creates a subtle ridge in the fabric and gives the transition from the flat bottom to the upright sides of the bag a neat, defined edge.
The Pattern
Part One: The Bottom of the Pouch
Start by making a magic ring, or if you prefer, you can chain 4 and slip stitch into the first chain to form a ring.
Round 1: Work 6 sc into the magic ring. Pull the tail to close the ring. Place a stitch marker in the last stitch to mark the end of the round. (6 stitches)
Round 2: Work 2 sc in each stitch around. (12 stitches)
Round 3: Work 2 sc in the next stitch, sc in the next stitch. Repeat from to around. (18 stitches)
Round 4: Work 2 sc in the next stitch, sc in the next 2 stitches. Repeat from to around. (24 stitches)
Round 5: Work 2 sc in the next stitch, sc in the next 3 stitches. Repeat from to around. (30 stitches)
Round 6: Work 2 sc in the next stitch, sc in the next 4 stitches. Repeat from to around. (36 stitches)
At this point you should have a flat circle with 36 stitches. If you want a larger base, continue increasing in this pattern (adding one more “sc in the next X stitches” each round) until you reach your desired diameter.
Part Two: The Sides of the Pouch
This is the round that transitions your flat circle into an upright bag. Working in the back loop only creates a visible ridge that defines the bottom edge of the pouch, giving it a clean, structured look.
Round 7 (Transition Round): Working in BLO only, sc in each stitch around. (36 stitches)
Now you’ll continue working in both loops as normal for the body of the bag.
Rounds 8–22: Sc in each stitch around. (36 stitches per round)
This gives you approximately 6 inches of height for the body of the bag. If you want a taller bag, simply continue working even rounds until you reach your desired height. Just keep in mind that you’ll need a couple of inches above your body section for the eyelet and finishing rounds.
Part Three: The Eyelet Round
The eyelet round creates the holes through which your drawstring will be threaded. This is what transforms your crocheted tube into a working drawstring bag.
Round 23: Ch 2, skip the next stitch, sc in the next stitch. Repeat from to around. At the end of the round, sl st into the top of the first stitch to join. (18 ch-2 spaces and 18 sc)
This joining slip stitch closes the round so that the eyelets sit evenly and neatly around the top of the bag.
Part Four: The Finishing Rounds
Round 24: Ch 1, sc in each stitch and 2 sc in each ch-2 space around. Sl st to join. (36 stitches)
Round 25: Ch 1, sc in each stitch around. Sl st to join. (36 stitches)
Fasten off and weave in your ends.
Part Five: Adding the Drawstring
Cut two lengths of ribbon, cord, yarn, or twine, each about 24 inches long. You’ll thread them through the eyelets in opposite directions so that when you pull both ends, the bag cinches closed evenly.
To thread the first cord, attach a safety pin to one end and use it as a needle, weaving in and out of the ch-2 eyelet spaces all the way around the top of the bag. When you come back around, both ends of that first cord will exit through the same eyelet on the same side of the bag. Tie the ends together in a knot or bow.
Now thread the second cord starting from the eyelet directly opposite where the first cord began, weaving it in and out through the same eyelets but in the opposite direction. Again, both ends will come out through the same eyelet. Tie those ends together as well.
When you pull both knotted pairs outward at the same time, the bag will cinch closed. This two-cord method ensures that the drawstring pulls evenly from both sides, which looks clean and works smoothly.
Customization Ideas
One of the most fun things about this pattern is how much you can make it your own. Here are some ideas to spark your creativity.
Striped Colorwork: Change yarn color at the beginning of any round by simply dropping your current yarn, joining the new color, and continuing. You don’t even need to cut the yarn if you’re alternating every two rounds — just carry it loosely up the side of the work. A simple two-color stripe gives the bag a fun, modern look.
Textured Stitches: Once you’re comfortable with the basic structure, try swapping out the single crochet body for a different stitch texture. Half double crochet creates a softer, more flexible fabric. The moss stitch (alternating sc and ch-1 with skipped stitches) creates a beautiful open, airy texture. Waistcoat stitch gives an incredible knit-like appearance. Any stitch that gives you a similar gauge will work.
Different Sizes: As mentioned earlier, this pattern scales easily. For a coin purse, work only through Round 4 for the base (24 stitches) and reduce the body to about 8 rounds. For a large gift bag, increase the base to 48 stitches and work 20 or more rounds for the body. The math stays the same for the eyelet round — you’ll just have more or fewer eyelets depending on your stitch count.
Decorative Drawstrings: Instead of plain ribbon or cord, try braided yarn in a contrasting color, leather cord for a rustic look, satin ribbon for something more elegant, jute twine for a farmhouse aesthetic, or a simple twisted cord you make yourself from your leftover yarn. The drawstring is a small detail, but it has a big impact on the finished look of the bag.
Embellishments: Once the pouch is finished, you can add all kinds of extra touches. Crochet a small flower or leaf and sew it onto the front. Embroider a simple design with a yarn needle and contrasting thread. Add buttons, beads, or fringe. Crochet a little heart or star separately and attach it. The base pattern is simple enough that embellishments really shine.
Tips for Success
Use a stitch marker. When working in the round without joining each round, it’s very easy to lose track of where your rounds begin and end. Place a stitch marker in the last stitch of each round (or the first stitch, depending on your preference) and move it up as you go. This keeps your stitch count accurate and your seam line straight.
Count your stitches. After every increase round (Rounds 2–6), pause and count. An extra stitch or a missed increase can throw off the shape of your base and cause it to cup or ruffle. Catching a mistake early is so much easier than frogging multiple rounds later.
Pull your magic ring tight. When you close the magic ring, give that yarn tail a firm pull to close the center hole completely. A gap in the center of the base is the most common beginner mistake with this kind of project, and it’s easy to prevent.
Weave in ends as you go. If you’re changing colors or working with a project that requires multiple yarn joins, it’s so much easier to weave in each end right after you complete it rather than saving them all for the end. Your yarn needle can weave the tail invisibly through the back of several stitches in different directions to secure it firmly.
Block if needed. If you’re using cotton yarn and your finished bag looks a little stiff or uneven, a quick wet block can work wonders. Simply wet the bag with cool water, squeeze out the excess (don’t wring it), shape it with your hands, and allow it to dry flat. Cotton especially responds beautifully to wet blocking and will come out looking smooth and professional.
Video Tutorial
If you’re a visual learner, the video tutorial linked above walks you through every single step of this pattern in real time. You’ll see exactly how to start the magic ring, how to work the increases for the base, how the BLO transition round looks in practice, how to create the eyelets, and how to thread the drawstring correctly. Even if you consider yourself an intermediate or advanced crocheter, watching someone else’s hands work through the steps can clarify small details that written instructions sometimes miss.
The video also includes a couple of bonus tips that aren’t in the written pattern, including a trick for keeping your tension consistent when working in the round and an easy way to make a twisted cord drawstring from your leftover yarn.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use a different yarn weight? Absolutely. You can use fingering weight yarn with a 2.5 or 3.0 mm hook for a tiny, delicate pouch, or bulky yarn with a 6.0 or 6.5 mm hook for a chunkier bag. Just be aware that your finished size will be different and you may need to adjust your stitch count for the base.
What if I don’t know how to make a magic ring? You can start with a chain instead. Chain 4 and slip stitch into the first chain to form a small ring, then work your Round 1 stitches into that ring. It’s slightly more visible than a magic ring but works just as well structurally.
Can I use this as a reusable gift bag? Yes, and it’s wonderful for that purpose! Cotton yarn is especially great for a gift bag because it’s durable, washable, and has a clean, finished appearance. Recipients often love having the bag itself as part of the gift.
How do I wash the finished pouch? Always follow the care instructions on your yarn label. Most acrylic yarns are machine washable on a gentle cycle. Cotton can usually be machine washed as well, though cold water is safest. Wool often requires hand washing in cool water and laying flat to dry.
Can I sell items made from this pattern? Yes! You’re welcome to sell finished pouches made from this pattern. If you post your makes on social media, I’d love to see them — tag your photos so the whole crochet community can enjoy your creations.
Final Thoughts
This easy crochet drawstring pouch pattern is one of those projects that never gets old. It’s fast, satisfying, and immediately useful. Once you’ve made one, you’ll find yourself making another in a different color, then another slightly larger, then one as a holiday gift, then one just because you love the stitch pattern you found and want to try it out. That’s the magic of small projects — they let you experiment freely without committing to weeks of work.
If you make this pouch, I hope it brings you the same joy that it’s brought so many other makers. Crochet at its best is about creating something useful and beautiful with nothing more than a hook, some yarn, and your own two hands. This little pouch is exactly that.
Happy crocheting!
