Drawstring Purl Pouch Knitting Pattern: A Complete Guide to Knitting Your Own Gorgeous Pouch
There is something deeply satisfying about finishing a knitted pouch. It is small enough to complete in an afternoon, useful enough to reach for every single day, and charming enough that people always ask where you bought it. The answer, of course, is that you made it yourself — and that is a feeling no store-bought item can replicate. This drawstring purl pouch knitting pattern is one of those projects that perfectly balances simplicity with elegance. Whether you are a beginner who has just mastered the knit and purl stitches or an experienced knitter looking for a satisfying weekend project, this pattern has something to offer you.
The purl stitch gives this pouch its distinctive texture. Unlike a stockinette pouch, which lies flat and smooth, a purl-textured surface catches the light differently and creates a subtle, almost bobbled appearance that feels wonderful in the hand. Add a simple drawstring closure and you have a finished object that functions beautifully as a jewelry pouch, a small gift bag, a coin purse, a dice bag for tabletop gaming, a tea bag holder, or even a travel container for earbuds and small accessories. The possibilities are genuinely endless, and once you make one, you will find yourself casting on for a second and third in different colors before the week is out.
Understanding the Purl Stitch Before You Begin
If you are new to purling, it helps to understand what makes the purl stitch different from the knit stitch before diving into the pattern. The knit stitch pulls a loop through the front of the work, while the purl stitch pushes a loop through from behind. The result is a stitch that looks like a small horizontal bump on the side facing you, which is the reverse of a knit stitch. When you work every stitch as a purl stitch in the round, you actually create what looks like reverse stockinette — a surface covered in those beautiful, uniform bumps that give this pouch its characteristic texture.
Working entirely in purl in the round takes a little more coordination than knitting in the round, because your yarn must remain in front of your work at all times. Some knitters find this awkward at first, but most people settle into a comfortable rhythm within the first few rows. If you truly struggle with purling in the round, you can achieve a similar result by knitting every stitch in the round, which produces smooth stockinette on the outside. But the full purl fabric really is worth the extra effort — it has a cozy, touchable quality that knitted stockinette simply does not replicate.
Materials You Will Need
Before you cast on, gather everything you need so your knitting session goes smoothly from start to finish.
For yarn, you will want a worsted weight or DK weight fiber. Worsted weight produces a slightly chunkier pouch that works well for bulkier items like crystals, cosmetics, or a set of dice. DK weight creates a more delicate finished object that suits jewelry or small trinkets beautifully. Any fiber content works for this pattern — wool gives you warmth and structure, cotton creates a sturdy and washable pouch, acrylic is affordable and comes in an enormous range of colors, and luxurious blends like merino and silk feel extraordinary against the skin. You will need approximately 75 to 100 yards of yarn for a small pouch, or 120 to 150 yards for a medium-sized version.
For needles, choose a set of double-pointed needles or a short circular needle in the size recommended on your yarn’s label. Most worsted weight yarns call for US size 7 to 9 needles, while DK weight typically works best on US size 5 to 6. You want the fabric to be slightly firm rather than floppy, so consider going down half a needle size from the yarn’s recommendation if your swatch feels too loose.
You will also need a tapestry needle for weaving in ends, scissors, a stitch marker, and a length of cord, ribbon, or I-cord for the drawstring. A crochet hook in a size slightly smaller than your knitting needles makes pulling the drawstring through the eyelets much easier. If you plan to make an I-cord drawstring with your leftover yarn, keep two double-pointed needles handy for that step.
Gauge and Sizing
Gauge matters more for pouches than many knitters expect, because even small variations in tension can significantly change the finished dimensions of a small project. For a worsted weight pouch on US size 8 needles, you should aim for approximately 18 stitches and 24 rows over four inches in the round. For DK weight on US size 5 needles, target around 22 stitches and 28 rows over four inches.
The small pouch in this pattern measures approximately 4 inches wide and 5 inches tall before the drawstring casing. The medium version measures approximately 5.5 inches wide and 6.5 inches tall. You can easily scale the pattern up or down by adjusting your cast-on number, keeping in mind that the stitch count should always be even so the ribbing at the top works out correctly.
The Drawstring Purl Pouch Knitting Pattern
Abbreviations used in this pattern:
CO = cast on, K = knit, P = purl, K2tog = knit two together, yo = yarn over, PM = place marker, SM = slip marker, rnd = round, rep = repeat, BO = bind off
Small Pouch (approximately 4 inches wide, 5 inches tall):
Cast on 36 stitches using your preferred method. The long-tail cast on works particularly well for this project because it creates a firm, even edge that holds its shape beautifully at the base. If you are working on double-pointed needles, distribute your stitches evenly across three or four needles. If you are using a short circular, simply join to work in the round, being careful not to twist your cast-on stitches.
Place a stitch marker to indicate the beginning of the round and join for working in the round.
Base Shaping (Rounds 1 through 6):
Round 1: Purl all stitches. (36 stitches)
Round 2: P2, P2tog, rep from to end of round. (27 stitches)
Round 3: Purl all stitches.
Round 4: P1, P2tog, rep from to end of round. (18 stitches)
Round 5: Purl all stitches.
Round 6: P2tog, rep from to end of round. (9 stitches)
Cut yarn, leaving a six-inch tail. Thread the tail through a tapestry needle and draw it through all remaining stitches. Pull firmly to close the base, then draw the needle through to the inside of the pouch and weave in the tail securely. This method creates a neatly gathered base with no visible seam.
Now, if this feels backwards — working the base first when the base is at the bottom — do not worry. You are working from the base upward, which means you cast on at the bottom, work those decreasing rounds to gather the base closed, and then work your way up the sides of the pouch. The structure makes perfect sense once you see it taking shape.
Note: If you prefer to work the pouch from the top down, simply reverse the construction. Cast on at the top, work the body upward (which means downward in this approach), and close the bottom with the gathered decrease rounds. Either method produces the same finished result.
To re-set for the body of the pouch, return to your cast-on edge. Pick up and knit 36 stitches evenly around the cast-on edge, redistributing them across your double-pointed needles or short circular as needed. Place your stitch marker and join for working in the round.
Body of the Pouch (Rounds 1 through 28 for small, or until piece measures approximately 4 inches from cast-on edge):
Every round: Purl all stitches.
Work these purl rounds until the body of the pouch measures approximately four inches from the base. The continuous purl texture creates a dense, bumpy fabric on the outside that looks incredibly charming. Keep your tension consistent throughout — if you find yourself purling more loosely as your fingers tire, pause and readjust. Even tension is the key to a polished finished object.
Eyelet Round for Drawstring Casing:
Round 1: P2, yo, P2tog, rep from to end of round.
This creates a row of evenly spaced eyelets through which you will thread your drawstring. The yarn over followed by a decrease keeps your stitch count stable while opening up small holes at regular intervals. Work this round carefully and evenly — uneven tension here will be visible on the finished pouch.
Round 2: Purl all stitches.
Ribbed Top Edge:
Work K2, P2, rep from to end of round for 8 rounds.
The ribbing adds a finished, professional edge and helps the top of the pouch gather in slightly when the drawstring is not pulled tight, which keeps small items from spilling out. You can extend the ribbing to 12 or even 16 rounds if you want a deeper cuff effect.
Bind off loosely in pattern, working each stitch as it appears. A loose bind-off is essential here — if you bind off too tightly, the top of the pouch will pucker and the ribbing will not stretch properly. If you tend to bind off tightly, try using a needle one or two sizes larger for the bind-off row only.
Medium Pouch (approximately 5.5 inches wide, 6.5 inches tall):
Cast on 48 stitches. Work the base shaping through the same decrease sequence, adjusting as follows:
Round 2: P3, P2tog, rep from to end. (40 stitches — round toward an even number, adjusting the last repeat as needed)
Continue the decrease pattern until you have closed the base, then pick up 48 stitches around the cast-on edge and work the body rounds as above until the piece measures approximately 5.5 inches. Work the eyelet round as written (adjusting if your stitch count is not divisible by four by adding or subtracting one stitch), then complete the ribbed top edge and bind off.
Making the Drawstring
There are several wonderful options for your drawstring, and each one changes the character of the finished pouch noticeably.
A twisted cord made from the same yarn used for the pouch creates a beautifully cohesive look. To make one, cut three or four lengths of yarn approximately three times the desired finished length of your drawstring. Hold them together and twist in one direction until the cord begins to kink. Fold the twisted length in half, hold the folded end, and allow the two halves to twist around each other. Knot both ends to secure.
An I-cord drawstring has a neat, rounded appearance that feels luxurious and holds up beautifully to repeated use. To make an I-cord, cast on 3 stitches onto a double-pointed needle. Knit those 3 stitches. Without turning your work, slide the stitches to the opposite end of the needle, bring the working yarn firmly across the back, and knit the 3 stitches again. Repeat this process, always working from right to left without turning, until your cord reaches the desired length. Bind off and weave in ends. I-cord is particularly satisfying to make while watching television.
A ribbon or decorative cord purchased from a craft or fabric store is the quickest option and allows you to add a contrasting color or luxurious texture to the finished pouch with minimal extra work. Satin ribbon, velvet ribbon, waxed cotton cord, and leather lace all look stunning threaded through the purl texture eyelets.
Thread your chosen drawstring through the eyelet round using a blunt tapestry needle or crochet hook, starting and ending at the same eyelet so both ends emerge from the same point. Tie a knot at each end to prevent the drawstring from pulling back through. If you want the drawstring to emerge from opposite sides of the pouch (which distributes the gathering more evenly when you pull it shut), thread the cord through starting at one eyelet and stopping when the midpoint of the cord is inside the pouch, then thread the second half back through from the diametrically opposite eyelet.
Finishing Touches and Care Instructions
Blocking your purl pouch makes an enormous difference to the finished appearance. Wet blocking is simple and effective — soak your finished pouch in cool water for fifteen to twenty minutes, gently squeeze out the excess water (never wring), and then reshape the pouch by inserting a small glass jar or similar object to hold the shape while it dries. The purl texture will bloom and even out beautifully, and any uneven stitches will relax into a more consistent fabric.
Care for your finished pouch according to the fiber content of your yarn. Wool pouches should be hand-washed in cool water with a gentle wool wash and laid flat to dry. Cotton and acrylic pouches can generally tolerate machine washing on a gentle cycle in a mesh laundry bag, though always check your yarn’s ball band to be certain.
Creative Variations to Try
Once you have mastered the basic drawstring purl pouch, the design lends itself beautifully to customization. Try working the body in alternating two-round stripes for a colorful striped effect — the purl texture makes even simple stripes look sophisticated. You can add a monogram using duplicate stitch embroidery after the pouch is complete, or use a self-striping or gradient yarn to let the color do all the work for you.
For a more textured variation, try working a seed stitch body instead of full purl rounds. Seed stitch in the round is achieved by alternating knit and purl stitches in each round, offsetting them so that each knit stitch sits above a purl stitch from the previous round. The resulting fabric has an almost tweedy appearance that is both rustic and refined.
A simple cable panel worked up the front of the pouch creates a striking focal point. Choose a simple four-stitch cable crossed every fourth round and frame it on each side with a couple of purl stitches to make it pop. The remainder of the pouch continues in full purl rounds, so the cable appears to float against the bumpy background.
For gift-giving, consider working a pair of matching pouches in coordinating colors — one for yourself and one to give away. They make wonderful birthday gifts, wedding favors, or holiday presents, especially filled with a small piece of jewelry, a set of stitch markers, or a collection of lip balms and small skincare items.
Why Knitters Keep Coming Back to This Pattern
There is a reason that simple, functional knitting patterns like this one remain perennially popular in the knitting community. They offer a rare combination of qualities that more ambitious projects sometimes lack — they are achievable in a single sitting, they use up yarn leftovers beautifully, they make genuinely useful objects, and they provide just enough of a technical challenge to keep the process interesting without becoming frustrating.
The purl pouch in particular has become a beloved project for knitters at every skill level because the purl stitch is accessible to beginners but never becomes boring for experienced knitters. There is something meditative about round after round of purling — a rhythm that settles the mind and keeps the hands busy in the most pleasant possible way.
If you are teaching someone to knit, this pattern is an excellent second project after they have mastered basic knit-stitch dishcloths or scarves. It introduces working in the round, the purl stitch, simple decreases, yarn overs, and basic ribbing — all the foundational skills that open the door to more complex projects — in a small, low-stakes context where any mistakes are easy to spot and correct.
Share your finished pouch on social media with the hashtag for your favorite knitting community and you will find an enthusiastic audience. Knitters love seeing how different yarn choices, color combinations, and drawstring materials transform the same basic pattern into something that feels entirely unique. Your handmade drawstring purl pouch is a small object with a big story, and it deserves to be seen and celebrated.
Now cast on and enjoy every single purl stitch of this wonderfully satisfying knitting pattern.
