Crochet Remote Control Holder Free Pattern: A Beginner-Friendly Project You’ll Actually Use Every Day
If you’ve ever spent ten minutes hunting for the TV remote only to find it wedged between couch cushions for the third time that week, this project is going to become one of your favorites. A crochet remote control holder is one of those small, practical makes that earns its place in your home immediately. It keeps your remotes organized, it looks charming on the arm of a sofa or draped over the side of a chair, and it works up quickly enough that you can finish it in a single evening. Best of all, this free crochet pattern is written for beginners, so even if you learned to crochet fairly recently, you have everything you need to make this happen.
In this post, you’ll find a complete, free pattern with stitch counts, yarn recommendations, hook size guidance, finishing tips, and ideas for customizing the project to match your home décor. Grab your hook and let’s get started.
Why Make a Crochet Remote Control Holder?
Before we dive into stitches and rows, let’s talk about why this project is worth your time. Crochet remote holders (sometimes called remote caddies, remote pockets, or armchair organizers) solve a real problem in a really beautiful way. Store-bought versions tend to be made from nylon or thin fabric and rarely match anything in your living room. A handmade version, on the other hand, can be customized in any color combination you want, made to fit any number of remotes, and given as a gift that people will genuinely use.
This is also a fantastic stash-buster project. The design uses a relatively small amount of yarn, so it’s a great way to use up partial skeins that have been sitting in your craft bin waiting for a purpose. If you love playing with color and texture, this pattern gives you a lot of room to experiment.
From a skill-building perspective, this project covers chains, single crochet, working in rows, creating a foundation, adding pockets, and finishing edges. If you’re newer to crochet and want a project that teaches you real techniques without overwhelming you, this is an excellent choice.
Materials You’ll Need
Here is everything you need to gather before you begin.
Yarn: Approximately 150–200 yards of worsted weight yarn (size 4). Cotton yarn works beautifully for this project because it’s sturdy, holds its shape well, and creates a firm fabric that supports the weight of remotes without sagging. That said, acrylic yarn works perfectly well and gives you a much wider color range. Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton, Paintbox Simply DK (held double), or any standard worsted cotton blend are all excellent choices. If you want a thicker, more structured caddy, consider holding two strands of DK weight yarn together.
Hook: Size 5.0mm (H/8) crochet hook. This is the standard recommendation for worsted weight cotton. If your tension tends to run tight, go up to a 5.5mm hook. If it runs loose, drop down to a 4.5mm.
Other supplies: Tapestry needle for weaving in ends, scissors, stitch markers (optional but helpful), and a ruler or measuring tape.
Gauge: Approximately 14 single crochet stitches and 16 rows equal 4 inches (10 cm). Gauge is not critical for this project since it doesn’t need to fit a body, but working close to gauge will give you a finished piece that looks neat and holds remotes without being too floppy.
Finished Dimensions
The finished remote control holder measures approximately 10 inches wide and 14 inches tall (including pockets). The pocket section is about 5 inches deep, which accommodates most standard TV remotes, cable boxes, and streaming device remotes. If you have particularly long or wide remotes, there are adjustment notes throughout the pattern to help you customize the sizing.
Abbreviations Used in This Pattern
Ch — chain
Sl st — slip stitch
Sc — single crochet
Hdc — half double crochet
St(s) — stitch(es)
BLO — back loop only
FLO — front loop only
Rep — repeat
Sk — skip
Sp — space
RS — right side
WS — wrong side
( ) — work all stitches inside the parentheses into the same stitch or space
[ ] — repeat the bracketed section the number of times indicated
Pattern Notes
This remote caddy is worked in two main sections: a long main panel that drapes over the arm or back of a chair, and a pocket panel that is worked separately and then sewn onto the lower half of the main panel. This construction method gives the pockets a clean, defined edge and makes it easy to adjust pocket depth without reworking the entire piece.
The pattern is written for a single-remote holder (one large pocket). After the main instructions, you’ll find notes for creating a two-pocket or three-pocket version.
All chains at the beginning of a row count as the first stitch unless otherwise noted.
The Free Pattern: Crochet Remote Control Holder
Part One: The Main Panel
The main panel is the long rectangular piece that drapes over your armchair or sofa arm. One half hangs on the outside of the chair, and the other half hangs on the inside. The remotes rest in the pocket, which is attached to the outer-facing side.
Foundation chain: Chain 37. (This creates a panel approximately 10 inches wide.)
Row 1 (RS): Sc in the second ch from hook and in each ch across. (36 sc) Turn.
Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each st across. (36 sc) Turn.
Repeat Row 2 until your panel measures 14 inches from the foundation chain, or your desired length. This typically takes around 56 rows, but row counts can vary depending on your tension. The most important thing is to measure as you go rather than rely purely on row counts.
When your panel reaches 14 inches, fasten off and weave in ends. Set this piece aside.
A note on length: The standard 14-inch length works well for most standard armchair arms, which measure between 6 and 8 inches wide. If your chair arm is wider or narrower, adjust the length of the panel accordingly. You want roughly equal lengths draping on either side of the arm so the caddy stays balanced. If you’re making this to hang over the back of a recliner or sofa, you may want to extend the panel to 18 or even 24 inches.
Part Two: The Pocket Panel
The pocket is worked as a separate rectangle and attached to the main panel. Working it separately means you can block it independently to get crisp edges, and if you want a decorative contrast color pocket, this construction makes that simple.
Foundation chain: Chain 37. (Matches the width of the main panel.)
Row 1 (RS): Sc in the second ch from hook and in each ch across. (36 sc) Turn.
Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each st across. (36 sc) Turn.
Repeat Row 2 until the pocket panel measures 5 inches from the foundation chain. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for seaming (approximately 24 inches).
Part Three: Adding the Pocket Border
Before attaching the pocket to the main panel, you’ll add a simple border to the top edge of the pocket. This creates a neat, finished look and adds a little extra stability.
Rejoin yarn to the top-right corner of the pocket panel (the last row you worked).
Border Row: Ch 2, hdc in the same st, hdc in each st across to the last st, 2 hdc in the last st. (38 hdc) Fasten off and weave in ends.
If you want a more decorative edge, you can work a simple shell border or a reverse single crochet (also called crab stitch) along the top of the pocket instead of the plain hdc border. Both options add a lovely finish without requiring additional materials.
Part Four: Attaching the Pocket
Lay your main panel flat with the right side facing up. Position the pocket panel on the lower half of the main panel, aligning the bottom and side edges. The bottom of the pocket should line up with the bottom edge of the main panel, and the sides should be flush.
Using the long tail you left when fastening off the pocket, and a tapestry needle, whipstitch or mattress stitch the pocket to the main panel along the bottom edge and both side edges. Leave the top of the pocket open. Pull your seams firmly so they’re secure — remotes are heavier than you might expect, and you want this to hold up to daily use.
Once the pocket is attached, weave in all remaining ends.
Part Five: Finishing the Main Panel Border
Adding a border around the entire main panel gives your remote caddy a polished, professional look and helps the edges lie flat. This step is optional but highly recommended.
Rejoin yarn at any corner of the main panel.
Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc evenly around all four sides of the panel, working 3 sc in each corner to turn neatly. When you reach the top edge of the pocket on the front face, work across the hdc border normally. Join with a sl st to the first sc.
Rnd 2: Ch 1, working in BLO, sc in each st around. Join with a sl st to the first sc. Fasten off and weave in all ends.
The back-loop-only round on Rnd 2 creates a subtle textural ridge that defines the edge beautifully and adds a small amount of extra structure.
Finishing and Blocking
Weave in all remaining yarn ends thoroughly. For cotton yarn especially, ends can work themselves loose over time, so take a few extra passes through nearby stitches before trimming.
Blocking is optional for acrylic yarn but makes a noticeable difference with cotton. To wet block your finished caddy, submerge it in cool water for a few minutes, gently squeeze out excess water without wringing, and lay it flat on a blocking mat or clean towel. Shape it to the correct dimensions (10 inches wide, 14 inches tall), pin the edges if desired, and allow it to dry completely. Blocking evens out your tension, opens up the stitches slightly, and gives the finished piece a cleaner, more structured appearance.
Making a Two-Pocket or Three-Pocket Version
If you have several remotes to corral — a TV remote, a cable or satellite remote, a soundbar remote, and so on — you might want to divide the pocket into two or three separate compartments.
For a two-pocket version: After attaching the pocket panel as directed, use a length of yarn and your tapestry needle to stitch a single vertical seam down the center of the pocket from the bottom edge to the top border. This divides the single large pocket into two smaller pockets, each approximately 5 inches wide. This width accommodates most standard remotes comfortably.
For a three-pocket version: Work two vertical seams, dividing the pocket into thirds. Each pocket will be approximately 3.3 inches wide, which works well for slim remotes like streaming sticks or audio remotes, but may be tight for larger cable box remotes. You can adjust the pocket division to be uneven — for example, one wider pocket and two narrow ones — by simply placing your seam lines at different intervals rather than evenly.
Color and Customization Ideas
One of the best things about making your own remote caddy is the ability to personalize it completely. Here are some ideas to inspire you.
A simple two-color stripe pattern on the main panel is easy to achieve by changing colors at the beginning of a row every two, four, or six rows. This adds visual interest without complicating the stitch pattern at all.
If you want to try a textured stitch, the moss stitch (also called linen stitch or granite stitch) works beautifully for this project. It creates a tight, even fabric with a lovely woven appearance. Simply replace the plain single crochet rows with alternating sc and ch-1 patterns to achieve it.
For a more rustic, farmhouse-style look, use natural undyed cotton in cream or off-white paired with a simple black or dark navy border.
If you’re making this as a gift, consider matching the yarn color to the recipient’s living room palette. A thoughtful color choice turns a functional object into a truly personalized present.
Tapestry crochet is another option for advanced crocheters who want to add a motif — a small heart, a simple geometric shape, or initials — to the front of the pocket.
Tips for Success
Work your foundation chain loosely. A tight foundation chain is one of the most common beginner frustrations because it makes your first row awkward and can cause the bottom edge of your piece to draw in. If you struggle with this, try going up one hook size for the foundation chain only, then switching back to your regular hook for Row 1.
Check your stitch count at the end of every row for the first several rows. It’s much easier to catch a mistake early than to discover you’ve been working with 34 stitches instead of 36 for the past twenty rows.
Use a stitch marker to mark the first and last stitch of each row if you find yourself accidentally adding or losing stitches at the edges. The edge stitches are the ones most commonly missed by beginners.
When sewing the pocket to the main panel, take care to work through both layers consistently with the same tension throughout. An uneven seam will cause the pocket to pucker or pull, and it’ll be visible against the flat background of the main panel.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use a different yarn weight? Yes. Bulky weight yarn (size 6) worked on a 6.0mm hook will give you a thicker, more structured caddy that works up even faster. Just be aware that the finished dimensions will be larger, so you may want to reduce your starting chain. Conversely, DK weight yarn on a 4.0mm hook will produce a finer fabric — beautiful, but it will take longer to complete.
How do I keep the caddy from slipping off the chair arm? Most crochet remote caddies stay in place simply because the draping weight of each side keeps them balanced. If yours tends to shift, you can hand-sew a small strip of non-slip rug gripper or silicone shelf liner to the underside of the panel where it rests on the chair arm.
Can I machine wash this? If you used cotton yarn, yes — turn the caddy inside out (or lay it flat in a mesh laundry bag) and wash on a gentle, cold cycle. Lay flat to dry. Acrylic yarn can also typically be machine washed on a gentle cycle. Always check your specific yarn’s care label.
How long does this project take? Most crocheters finish this in three to five hours, depending on speed and how many breaks they take. It’s a realistic one-evening or one-weekend project.
Final Thoughts
A crochet remote control holder is one of those projects that earns its place in your home and in your project queue. It’s practical, it’s quick, it uses a small amount of yarn, and it genuinely solves a problem that almost everyone faces on a daily basis. This free pattern gives you a solid foundation that you can personalize endlessly with color, texture, pocket configuration, and finishing details.
Whether you’re crocheting this for yourself, making a batch as gifts, or just looking for a beginner-friendly project that results in something you’ll actually use, this remote caddy delivers. Pin this pattern, bookmark this page, and come back to it whenever you need a satisfying, functional make that works up beautifully and stays useful for years.
Happy crocheting!
