Crochet Hanging Basket Pattern: Wall Hanging Basket, Storage Basket, and Mesh Organizer All in One

If you’ve been searching for a crochet hanging basket pattern that actually works in your home, you’ve found it. This pattern covers everything from a simple wall hanging basket to a full mesh storage organizer, and it’s written in a way that beginners and intermediate crocheters can both feel confident following along. Whether you want to hang it in the bathroom for rolled towels, in the kitchen for fruit, or in a child’s room for stuffed animals, this crochet hanging basket is one of those projects you’ll make over and over again.

Let’s get into all the details — materials, techniques, sizing, and the full written pattern — plus some tips on how to customize it once you’ve gotten the hang of the basic design.

Why Crochet a Hanging Basket?

Crocheted hanging baskets have exploded in popularity for good reason. They sit right at the intersection of function and handmade charm, and they fill a need that most homes genuinely have: stylish, affordable storage that doesn’t eat up shelf or counter space.

Unlike a rigid plastic or wire hanging organizer you’d buy at a big box store, a crochet hanging basket has texture, warmth, and a personality all its own. It becomes a piece of décor in addition to being useful. The open mesh structure that you’ll create in this pattern is especially practical because it allows airflow — ideal for produce, soaps, bath sponges, or anything that benefits from not being sealed in a solid container.

There’s also something deeply satisfying about making your own storage solutions. Once you complete your first hanging basket, you’ll start eyeing every empty wall space in your house with a new appreciation.

Materials You’ll Need

Before you start, gather everything so the project goes smoothly from the first stitch to the final knot.

Yarn: Approximately 200–350 yards of worsted weight cotton yarn (size 4). Cotton is the preferred choice here because it holds its shape well, withstands a little moisture without getting mushy, and has the structural integrity to support weight. You can absolutely use a cotton-acrylic blend if that’s what you have on hand. Avoid anything too stretchy, like a yarn with a high lycra or elastane content, because the basket opening will distort over time.

Hook: 5.0 mm (H/8) crochet hook. If you tend to crochet tightly, go up half a size to a 5.5 mm to keep your mesh open and airy.

Notions: A yarn needle for weaving in ends, scissors, a stitch marker or two, a wooden dowel or thick branch (roughly 12–14 inches wide) for the hanging rod, and approximately 18–24 inches of twine, macramé cord, or sturdy yarn for the hanging loops.

Optional extras: Wooden beads to decorate the hanging cords, a small ring to combine the cords into a single loop at the top, and a tape measure.

Abbreviations and Stitches Used

This pattern uses standard US crochet terminology.

ch — chain

sl st — slip stitch

sc — single crochet

dc — double crochet

ch-sp — chain space

sp — space

rep — repeat

beg — beginning

st(s) — stitch(es)

rnd — round

RS — right side

The primary stitch pattern for the body of this basket is a simple mesh made from double crochets and chain spaces. If you’ve worked granny squares or any kind of mesh shawl, this will feel immediately familiar. If you’re newer to crochet, a quick swatch before you start will help you get comfortable with the rhythm.

Gauge

Gauge matters more here than it might in, say, a scarf, because you want the basket to have enough structure to hold its shape when things are placed inside it.

Approximately 13 stitches and 8 rows in double crochet = 4 inches x 4 inches using worsted weight cotton and a 5.0 mm hook.

For the mesh pattern specifically: one mesh repeat (dc, ch 2) should measure roughly 1 inch across.

If your gauge is significantly off, adjust your hook size before beginning the full pattern.

Sizing

This pattern is written for a standard hanging basket that measures approximately 10 inches wide and 8 inches deep when completed and lightly blocked. It’s a versatile size — wide enough to hold a generous bundle of fruit, several rolls of toilet paper, or a collection of bath products, but compact enough to hang without dominating a small wall.

If you’d like a larger basket — say, for a children’s room organizer with multiple pockets — the pattern includes notes at the end for scaling up.

The Full Crochet Hanging Basket Pattern

Part One: The Base

The base is worked in continuous rounds of single crochet to create a firm, flat circle that will support the weight of whatever you place inside.

Round 1: Make a magic ring. Ch 1, work 6 sc into the ring, pull the tail to close. Do not join. Place a stitch marker in the last stitch made and move it up as you work. (6 sts)

Round 2: Work 2 sc in each stitch around. (12 sts)

Round 3: Sc in next st, 2 sc in next st — repeat from to around. (18 sts)

Round 4: Sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st — repeat from to around. (24 sts)

Round 5: Sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st — repeat from to around. (30 sts)

Round 6: Sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st — repeat from to around. (36 sts)

Round 7: Sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st — repeat from to around. (42 sts)

Round 8: Sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc in next st — repeat from to around. (48 sts)

At the end of Round 8, you should have a flat circle that measures roughly 5 inches in diameter. If you want a larger or smaller base, simply continue adding rounds following the established increase pattern (adding one extra sc between increases each round) or stop a round early.

Slip stitch to join at the end of Round 8. Fasten off and weave in the tail from the magic ring, but leave the working yarn attached to continue.

Part Two: The Basket Sides

The sides are worked upward from the base using the mesh pattern. This is where the crochet hanging basket really starts to take its signature open, airy shape.

Transition Round: Without turning, ch 3 (counts as first dc throughout), dc in each st around. Join with sl st to top of beginning ch-3. (48 dc)

This round creates a solid transition between the flat base and the open mesh sides, giving the basket a clean edge at the bottom.

Mesh Round 1: Ch 5 (counts as dc + ch 2), skip next 2 sts, dc in next st, ch 2, skip next 2 sts — repeat from to around. Join with sl st to 3rd ch of beginning ch-5. (16 mesh spaces)

Mesh Round 2: Sl st into first ch-sp, ch 5 (counts as dc + ch 2), dc in next ch-sp, ch 2 — repeat from to around. Join with sl st to 3rd ch of beginning ch-5.

Rounds 3 through 8: Repeat Mesh Round 2. Each round builds on the last, working dc into each dc of the round below and into each chain space as your anchor points.

After completing 8 mesh rounds, your basket sides should be approximately 6–7 inches tall. At this point you can decide whether you’d like to add one or two more rounds for extra depth, or move on to the top edge.

Part Three: The Top Edge and Hanging Rod Loops

The top edge does two things: it finishes the basket with a clean, sturdy border, and it creates the loops through which your hanging rod will pass.

Top Edging Round: Sl st into first ch-sp. Ch 3, work 2 dc into same ch-sp. Work 3 dc into each ch-sp around. Join with sl st to top of beginning ch-3. (48 dc)

Now work one round of sl st around the entire top edge to tighten and define it. This small step makes a big difference in how polished the finished basket looks.

Hanging Rod Loops: With your yarn still attached or rejoined at any point along the top edge, you’ll create two small loops — one on each side of the basket — to thread the hanging rod through.

Identify two points on the top edge that sit directly opposite each other. At the first point, ch 8, then sl st back into the top edge two stitches along (creating a small loop). Fasten off and weave in the end. Repeat on the opposite side of the basket.

If you prefer a more decorative approach, you can make these loops longer (ch 10 or 12) and tie them over the top of the rod rather than threading the rod through them.

Part Four: Assembly and Hanging

Slide your dowel or branch through both hanging loops so it runs across the top of the basket. The basket should hang open with the base pointing downward, like a pocket against the wall.

Cut two lengths of twine or macramé cord, each approximately 28–30 inches long. Tie one end of each cord to the outer ends of the dowel. Bring the cords up and tie them together at the center point — either in a simple knot, a gathering knot, or onto a metal ring — to create the loop you’ll hang on your wall hook.

For extra style, slide wooden beads onto the cords before tying them off at the top. A single bead at each cord junction can elevate the whole piece from simple storage into a considered wall hanging.

Hang your new crochet wall hanging basket on a sturdy hook rated for at least two to three times the weight of what you plan to store inside it.

Tips for a Beautiful, Long-Lasting Crochet Hanging Basket

Block it before you use it. Wet blocking cotton yarn is easy — just soak the finished basket in cool water for about 15 minutes, squeeze out the excess (don’t wring), and then shape it while it’s damp. Let it dry flat for the base and hang it to dry once it’s mostly set. Blocking evens out the mesh and gives the basket a much more professional appearance.

Use cotton for anything near moisture. If this basket is going into a bathroom or near a kitchen sink, cotton is your best friend. It absorbs moisture, dries relatively quickly, and won’t develop the mildewy smell that some synthetics can when they stay damp.

Reinforce the base if you’re storing heavy items. You can slip a circle of cardboard, a small cutting board, or a commercial basket liner into the base to distribute weight more evenly. Cut a circle from a thin piece of craft felt and stitch it loosely to the inside base if you want something that stays put.

Scale it up for a children’s room organizer. To make a larger basket, simply increase your base by two more rounds (ending with 60 stitches instead of 48) and adjust your mesh round to: ch 5, skip 2, dc in next st, ch 2, skip 2 across. You’ll have 20 mesh spaces per round instead of 16, and the basket will measure roughly 13–14 inches wide. This size is perfect for stuffed toys, books, or craft supplies.

Make a set of three in graduated sizes. A trio of baskets — small, medium, and large — hung at staggered heights on the wall creates a striking and functional display. Use the same colorway for cohesion, or choose a gradient of shades that complement your room’s palette.

Ideas for Where to Use Your Crochet Hanging Basket

Once you have the basic pattern down, you’ll want to make more than one, and you’ll discover that different rooms call for different configurations.

In the bathroom, a single basket hung near the tub is perfect for soaps, small bottles, and a loofah. The open mesh means water drains easily and everything dries between uses. A second, smaller basket near the mirror can hold hair ties, bobby pins, and other small items that otherwise disappear into drawer chaos.

In the kitchen, this crochet storage basket works beautifully for onions, garlic, or citrus fruit — things that don’t need refrigeration but clutter up your counter. Hang it near a window and it becomes part of the room’s visual story, catching the light through the mesh.

In an entryway or mudroom, a slightly deeper version of this basket (made by adding four to six more mesh rounds) can hold gloves, hats, or dog leashes near the door. It’s practical without looking utilitarian.

In a home office or craft room, several hanging mesh baskets at different heights can replace an entire shelving unit for storing yarn, ribbon, stamps, or office supplies. Hanging organizers free up desk and floor space while keeping everything visible at a glance, which is especially useful in small rooms.

In a nursery or child’s bedroom, the soft cotton construction means there are no sharp edges and no risk of a hard basket falling and injuring a small child. Stuffed animals and small toys stay contained but can be retrieved easily by little hands.

Caring for Your Crochet Basket

To wash, hand wash in cool water with a gentle detergent, or place in a mesh laundry bag and run a gentle machine cycle in cold water. Reshape while damp and hang to dry. Avoid the dryer, as heat can shrink cotton significantly and cause your beautiful basket to become unusable.

For light cleaning between washes, a lint roller or a quick shake outdoors removes dust efficiently. If something spills inside the basket, spot clean with a damp cloth and a drop of dish soap, then rinse thoroughly.

A Few Final Notes

The crochet hanging basket pattern in this post is designed to be both beginner-friendly and adaptable. The base is worked in the round using a stitch pattern most crocheters already know, and the mesh sides repeat the same two-row sequence throughout, so there’s very little to memorize. Once you’ve worked through the first couple of mesh rounds, the rest flows almost automatically.

Don’t stress if your first attempt doesn’t look exactly like you imagined. Cotton yarn responds beautifully to blocking, and a lot of the unevenness that shows in a freshly finished piece smooths out once you’ve blocked and hung the basket. Give it a soak, let it dry on the rod, and you may find you love the result more than you expected.

Share your finished baskets — tagging your projects on social media and saving the pattern helps other crocheters find it, and there’s something genuinely lovely about seeing what different color combinations and yarn choices do to a single pattern.

Happy stitching.