Top with Lace Panels – Free Knitting Pattern
There is something truly timeless about a handknitted top. Whether you are a seasoned knitter looking for your next project or someone who has recently picked up the needles and wants to create something wearable and beautiful, a top with lace panels sits in a sweet spot that balances elegance with accessibility. This pattern brings together the structure of a classic fitted top with the delicate, airy beauty of lace panels running along the sides and front, giving the finished garment a feminine, flowing quality that works just as well dressed up for an evening out as it does layered over a tank for a relaxed summer afternoon.
This free knitting pattern is written for a range of sizes, uses worsted-weight yarn, and incorporates a straightforward lace repeat that even intermediate knitters will find approachable. Let’s get into everything you need to know, from materials and gauge to construction and finishing.
Why You Will Love This Project
Knitting your own clothing is one of the most rewarding things you can do with a pair of needles. Unlike scarves or dishcloths, a wearable garment gives you something you will reach for again and again, and the lace detail in this top elevates it well beyond anything you might find on a high-street rack.
The lace panels in this design are worked as vertical columns, running from the hem up to just below the underarm. This placement does several wonderful things at once. Vertically oriented lace creates a lengthening effect on the body, which most wearers find flattering regardless of their shape or size. The panels also provide a natural breaking point between the denser stockinette sections, which means the top has nice structure at the bust and shoulders while still feeling light and breathable across the torso.
The construction is worked flat in two pieces — a front and a back — and then seamed at the sides and shoulders. If you prefer seamless knitting, there are notes later in the pattern for adapting the construction, but the seamed version gives the garment excellent stability and helps the lace panels lie flat without curling or distorting.
Materials You Will Need
Getting your materials sorted before you cast on makes the entire knitting process smoother and more enjoyable. Here is everything you need for this project.
Yarn: Approximately 600–900 yards of DK or light worsted weight yarn, depending on your size. The pattern is written with yardage estimates by size in the sizing section below. A yarn with a little cotton or bamboo content works beautifully here because these fibers drape well and hold the lace detail clearly. Pure wool or a wool-blend will also work and will give you slightly more stitch definition. Avoid very fuzzy or hairy yarns like mohair for this particular project, as the lace pattern will be obscured by the halo.
Needles: US size 5 (3.75 mm) circular or straight needles for the main fabric, and US size 4 (3.5 mm) needles for the ribbed hem and neckband. If you knit loosely, you may want to go down a needle size to hit gauge. If you knit tightly, go up.
Notions: A set of stitch markers, a tapestry needle for seaming and weaving in ends, scissors, and a blocking mat with rust-proof pins. Blocking is not optional with lace — it transforms the finished fabric and opens up the pattern in a way that makes all the difference to the final look of the top.
Gauge: 22 stitches and 28 rows over 4 inches (10 cm) in stockinette stitch, blocked. Check your gauge carefully before casting on. Even half a stitch per inch off gauge can make a significant difference in a garment, particularly across the bust and shoulders.
Sizing Information
This pattern is written for sizes XS through 2XL, with finished bust measurements as follows. The top is designed with approximately 1–2 inches of positive ease, meaning it will fit slightly loosely at the bust for a relaxed, comfortable silhouette.
Size XS: Finished bust 32 inches — approximately 620 yards of yarn required.
Size S: Finished bust 36 inches — approximately 690 yards required.
Size M: Finished bust 40 inches — approximately 760 yards required.
Size L: Finished bust 44 inches — approximately 820 yards required.
Size XL: Finished bust 48 inches — approximately 870 yards required.
Size 2XL: Finished bust 52 inches — approximately 920 yards required.
Throughout the pattern, instructions are given for the smallest size first, with larger sizes in parentheses in the order listed above. If you are only knitting one size, it helps enormously to go through the pattern before you begin and circle or highlight all the numbers that apply to your size. This simple step prevents a surprising number of mistakes and makes the knitting feel much more intuitive.
Abbreviations and Special Stitches
Before getting into the pattern itself, here are the abbreviations used throughout. If you are newer to reading knitting patterns, it is worth reading through this section carefully before you begin.
k: knit
p: purl
k2tog: knit two stitches together (a right-leaning decrease)
ssk: slip, slip, knit (a left-leaning decrease)
yo: yarn over (creates a new stitch and a small eyelet hole, which is how the lace pattern is formed)
RS: right side of the work
WS: wrong side of the work
pm: place marker
sm: slip marker
rep: repeat
sts: stitches
The lace pattern used in this top is a simple four-stitch, four-row repeat. The basic structure is a yarn over paired with a decrease on alternating sides, which creates a gentle zigzag of eyelets. Here is the lace repeat panel used in this pattern.
Lace Panel (worked over 12 stitches):
Row 1 (RS): K2, yo, ssk, k2, k2tog, yo, k2.
Row 2 (WS): Purl all stitches.
Row 3 (RS): K1, yo, ssk, k2, k2tog, yo, k3.
Row 4 (WS): Purl all stitches.
This four-row repeat is worked up the length of the lace panel sections. The result is a column of offset eyelets that reads as delicate and intricate but is actually very straightforward once you have worked a few repeats.
Pattern Instructions — Back
Cast on: Using your larger needles, cast on 88 (98, 110, 120, 132, 142) stitches using a long-tail cast on, which gives a neat, elastic edge that sits beautifully at the hem.
Ribbing: Switch to smaller needles and work 8 rows of k1, p1 ribbing. This is your hem band. The ribbing adds a bit of body and prevents the hem from rolling up.
Switch back to larger needles and set up the pattern as follows:
Setup Row (RS): K14 (16, 20, 23, 27, 30), pm, work Lace Panel over next 12 sts, pm, k46 (54, 58, 62, 68, 70), pm, work Lace Panel over next 12 sts, pm, k14 (16, 20, 23, 27, 30).
Continue in pattern as set, working the stockinette sections in plain knit on RS and purl on WS, and working the lace panels as established between the markers. Continue until the piece measures 13 (13, 13.5, 13.5, 14, 14) inches from the cast-on edge, ending with a WS row.
Armhole shaping: Bind off 4 (5, 6, 7, 8, 9) stitches at the beginning of the next two rows. Then decrease 1 stitch at each end of every RS row 4 (5, 6, 7, 8, 9) times total. You should have 72 (78, 86, 92, 100, 106) stitches remaining.
Continue in pattern without further shaping until the armhole measures 7 (7.5, 8, 8, 8.5, 9) inches from the bind-off, ending with a WS row.
Shoulder shaping: Bind off 7 (8, 9, 10, 11, 12) stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows. Place the remaining 44 (46, 50, 52, 56, 58) stitches on a holder for the back neck.
Pattern Instructions — Front
Work exactly as for the back through the armhole shaping. After completing the armhole decreases, continue in pattern until the armhole measures 4.5 (5, 5.5, 5.5, 6, 6.5) inches, ending with a WS row.
Neck shaping: On the next RS row, work across 27 (30, 33, 36, 40, 43) stitches in pattern, then bind off the center 18 (18, 20, 20, 20, 20) stitches for the front neck, and work to the end of the row.
You will now work each shoulder separately. Continuing on the left shoulder stitches, decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on every RS row 6 times. You will have 21 (24, 27, 30, 34, 37) stitches remaining for the shoulder. Continue without shaping until the armhole length matches the back, then bind off in two rows of 7 (8, 9, 10, 11, 12) stitches as for the back.
Rejoin yarn to the right shoulder stitches and work to match, reversing all shaping.
Seaming and Assembly
Once you have both pieces finished, block them before seaming. Soak the pieces in cool water with a small amount of wool wash, gently squeeze out the excess water (do not wring or twist), then lay flat on your blocking mat and pin to the schematic measurements. Allow to dry completely. This step makes a dramatic difference to how the lace panels look and how the pieces fit together.
After blocking, seam the shoulder seams using the three-needle bind-off or a mattress stitch join. The three-needle bind-off gives a clean, slightly raised seam on the inside that is strong and visually tidy. Mattress stitch is invisible when worked correctly and lies completely flat.
Seam the sides using mattress stitch, starting from the hem and working up to the underarm. Take care to match the rows carefully as you go — using markers or pins to align the pieces before you seam prevents any twisting or misalignment.
Neckband
Using your smaller needles and with the right side facing, pick up and knit stitches evenly around the neck opening. As a general guideline, pick up approximately 3 stitches for every 4 rows along the vertical edges of the neck, and 1 stitch for each bound-off stitch across the horizontal edges. For a crew neck, work 6 rounds of k1, p1 ribbing and then bind off loosely in pattern. For a more open, slouchy neck, work 10–12 rounds before binding off.
Armhole Finishing
You can finish the armholes in several ways depending on your preference. For a clean, minimal finish, simply pick up stitches around the armhole opening and work 4 rounds of k1, p1 ribbing before binding off. For a sleeveless summer top, this is all you need. Alternatively, if you would like to add short sleeves or cap sleeves at a later date, leave the armhole with just its bound-off edge and a single crochet border for a neat finish.
Tips for Knitting Lace Successfully
If this is your first time incorporating lace into a wearable garment, a few tips will make the experience much smoother.
Always use a lifeline when knitting lace, especially in the early rows when you are still getting familiar with the repeat. A lifeline is a length of smooth, contrasting yarn threaded through all the live stitches on your needle. If you make a mistake that requires frogging (unraveling) back several rows, the lifeline catches the stitches for you so you do not drop or twist them.
Count your stitches at the end of every RS row, at least for the first few pattern repeats. Each yarn over creates one new stitch, and each decrease removes one stitch, so the stitch count within the lace panel should remain constant at 12 stitches throughout. If you find yourself with more or fewer stitches, you have either forgotten a yarn over or a decrease, and catching this early is much easier than trying to correct it ten rows later.
Work in good light. Lace on dark-colored yarn can be genuinely difficult to see, especially when you are first learning the pattern. If possible, choose a light or medium-toned yarn for your first attempt at this pattern.
Adapting the Pattern
One of the best things about a simple top pattern like this one is how adaptable it is. Here are a few ideas for making the design your own.
If you would like a longer top or tunic length, simply add additional rows in the body before the armhole shaping. Every 4 rows adds approximately half an inch to the length, depending on your gauge.
The lace panel placement can be moved. Placing the panels at the center front only, rather than at the sides and front, creates a different visual effect — a single central column of lace that draws the eye down the center of the body in a very elegant way.
You can replace the lace panel repeat with any 12-stitch lace pattern you love. Leaf lace, feather and fan, travelling vine — there are countless options. If you want to try a different stitch pattern, just make sure the stitch repeat divides evenly into 12 and that you work a gauge swatch in the new pattern before casting on, as different lace patterns can have slightly different tensions.
For a dressier look, try knitting the entire top in a single ply or laceweight yarn doubled, using slightly larger needles to hit gauge. This gives a more transparent, layered quality to the fabric that is beautiful over a slip or camisole.
Yarn Substitution Suggestions
While any DK or light worsted will technically work for this pattern, some yarns shine particularly well. A smooth, plied cotton-wool blend like Paintbox Simply DK gives crisp stitch definition and drapes beautifully in warmer weather. For a more luxurious option, a superwash merino like Malabrigo Rios or Cascade 220 Superwash in DK weight gives the lace wonderful depth and a beautiful sheen.
If you are knitting this as a summer top and want maximum breathability, look for a linen-cotton blend. Linen has almost no elasticity, so the gauge can feel a little unforgiving, but it softens beautifully with washing and wearing and creates a drape that cannot be matched by wool.
Pattern Notes and Final Thoughts
This top is designed to be a project you genuinely enjoy knitting, not just a garment you push yourself through for the sake of the finished object. The lace repeat is satisfying to work once it clicks, the construction is logical and intuitive, and the blocking and finishing stages are genuinely exciting because they reveal the full beauty of what you have made.
The estimated completion time for an average-speed knitter is between 12 and 20 hours depending on size and how much time you spend each session. It is an ideal long-weekend project or something you can chip away at over a few weeks.
Once you have made one version, you will almost certainly want to make another — in a different color, a different yarn weight, or with a variation on the lace. That is the nature of knitting a pattern you love, and it is one of the best problems to have.
Happy knitting.
