Striped Eyelet Stitch Crochet Tutorial: A Light & Lacy Pattern You’ll Love
If you’ve been searching for a crochet stitch that feels breezy, elegant, and surprisingly easy to execute, the striped eyelet stitch might be exactly what your hook has been waiting for. This light and lacy pattern combines the visual interest of open eyelets with the structured rhythm of stripes, giving you a finished fabric that looks far more complex than the stitch count requires. Whether you’re making a summer shawl, a lightweight baby blanket, a table runner, or a boho-style tote bag, the striped eyelet stitch is versatile enough to handle them all.
In this tutorial, we’ll walk through everything from the materials you’ll need to a full stitch-by-stitch breakdown, along with tips for customizing the pattern and troubleshooting the most common mistakes beginners make. By the time you finish reading, you’ll have everything you need to cast on your first swatch and fall completely in love with this stitch.
What Is the Striped Eyelet Stitch?
The striped eyelet stitch is a combination stitch that uses chains and double crochets (or treble crochets, depending on the variation) to create rows of open holes, or “eyelets,” separated by solid or semi-solid rows of stitches. When worked in two or more colors, those alternating rows read as stripes, giving the fabric its distinctive name.
The charm of this stitch lies in its contrast. The eyelet rows are airy and open, letting light filter through the fabric in a way that feels delicate and refined. The denser rows ground the design and define the stripe, keeping the fabric from feeling too loose. Together, they create a balanced, rhythmic fabric that’s as pleasant to make as it is to look at.
Because the stitch structure is highly repetitive and relies on only a handful of basic techniques — chains, double crochets, and skipped stitches — it’s accessible to anyone who has moved past absolute beginner territory. If you can make a chain, work a double crochet, and read a basic pattern, you can absolutely master this stitch.
Materials You’ll Need
Before diving into the tutorial itself, let’s make sure you have everything on hand.
Yarn: This stitch is best showcased in a smooth, light-to-medium weight yarn. The eyelets need clean definition to read well, and a fuzzy or textured yarn can blur the holes and muddy the stripe effect. For a classic look, choose two contrasting colors — something like cream and sage, dusty blue and terracotta, or soft white and charcoal. For a more subtle effect, choose two shades of the same color family. DK weight or worsted weight yarn works beautifully here, though you can scale up or down depending on your project.
Hook: Match your hook size to your yarn weight. A US size G (4.0mm) hook works well with DK yarn, while a US size J (6.0mm) hook pairs nicely with worsted weight. For a lacier drape, size up one hook from your yarn’s recommended size.
Scissors and a yarn needle: You’ll be changing colors regularly, so you’ll want scissors within reach for clean cuts. A yarn needle is essential for weaving in ends, of which you’ll have several.
Stitch markers: Helpful but not strictly necessary. If you’re new to this stitch, a couple of locking stitch markers can help you track the beginning of each row and keep your stitch count honest.
Understanding the Pattern Structure
The striped eyelet stitch is worked in a two-row repeat across two colors. Let’s call them Color A and Color B. You’ll always work two rows in one color before switching to the other. Within each color section, one row is a dense row and one row is an eyelet row. This creates the striped, lacy effect.
Here’s the basic breakdown of one full color repeat:
Row 1 (Color A, dense row): Standard double crochet across.
Row 2 (Color A, eyelet row): Chain 3 to turn, skip one stitch, double crochet in the next stitch, then work a chain-one space and a double crochet alternately across the row.
Row 3 (Color B, dense row): Standard double crochet across, working into both the double crochets and the chain-one spaces from the previous row.
Row 4 (Color B, eyelet row): Same as Row 2.
Then you switch back to Color A and repeat.
This two-color, four-row repeat is the foundation of the striped eyelet stitch. Once you’ve done it twice, your hands will know the rhythm and you’ll be working on autopilot.
Step-by-Step Striped Eyelet Stitch Tutorial
Let’s work through the stitch in detail. We’ll start by setting up a foundation chain and working through the first full repeat.
Foundation Chain
Start with Color A. Chain a multiple of 2 plus 2 for the turning chain. For a practice swatch, chain 22. This gives you 20 working stitches plus a turning chain of 2.
Row 1: Dense Row (Color A)
Chain 22. Skip the first two chains (these count as your first double crochet). Double crochet in each remaining chain across — you should have 21 double crochets total, counting the turning chain as one stitch. Chain 3, turn.
Row 2: Eyelet Row (Color A)
The chain-3 counts as your first double crochet. Skip the first stitch directly below (the stitch at the base of your turning chain). Double crochet in the next stitch. Now work: chain 1, skip 1 stitch, double crochet in the next stitch and repeat from the asterisk all the way across. At the end of the row, work your last double crochet in the top of the turning chain from the previous row. Chain 3, turn.
You should see a row of small, evenly spaced holes running across the fabric. These are your eyelets. Take a moment to admire them — they’re the star of the show.
At this point, drop Color A (or cut it if you prefer cleaner edges) and pick up Color B.
Row 3: Dense Row (Color B)
With Color B, chain 3 (counts as first double crochet). Now double crochet in every stitch and every chain-one space across the row. This fills in all the gaps from the eyelet row and creates a solid band of Color B. Chain 3, turn.
This is an important step. Many beginners forget to work into the chain-one spaces and end up with a stitch count that gets smaller with every eyelet row. Make sure you’re treating each chain-one space as a stitch by inserting your hook into the space itself, pulling up a loop, and completing your double crochet.
Row 4: Eyelet Row (Color B)
Repeat exactly what you did in Row 2, but in Color B. Skip the first stitch, double crochet in the next, then work across in the chain-1, skip-1, double-crochet sequence. End with a double crochet in the top of the turning chain. Chain 3, turn.
Drop Color B and pick up Color A.
You have now completed one full color repeat of the striped eyelet stitch. Repeat Rows 1 through 4 for as many repeats as your project requires.
Tips for Clean Color Changes
Color changes are where this stitch either shines or shows its seams, so it’s worth taking a little extra time here.
When changing from Color A to Color B, work the last double crochet of your row until you have two loops remaining on your hook. At that point, drop Color A and use Color B to pull through both loops to complete the stitch. This blends the transition smoothly rather than creating a visible color jolt.
If you’re carrying your yarn up the side rather than cutting and reattaching, be careful not to pull too tightly. You want your side edges to remain even and relaxed. After every two rows, give your carried yarn a gentle tug to make sure it lies flat but isn’t puckering the edge.
If you decide to cut your yarn after each color section instead of carrying it, you’ll have more ends to weave in, but your edges will be neater, especially for projects that will be worn or displayed where the sides are visible.
Customizing the Striped Eyelet Stitch
One of the best things about this stitch is how easily it adapts to different aesthetics and project types. Here are a few ways to make it your own.
Play with color combinations. The classic two-color stripe is always beautiful, but nothing stops you from using three or four colors. Simply introduce a new color every two rows in whatever sequence appeals to you. Gradient yarn sets work especially well here, letting you create a subtle color wash across the fabric without making deliberate color changes.
Adjust the eyelet spacing. In the standard pattern, you’re skipping every other stitch to create eyelets. For a more open, lacy look, try skipping two stitches and chaining two before your next double crochet. For a tighter, more subtle effect, reduce the number of eyelets by working two double crochets between each chain-one space.
Mix stitch heights. Try working the dense rows in half double crochets instead of double crochets for a denser, cozier fabric. Or switch to treble crochets for eyelet rows to make the holes even more elongated and dramatic.
Add a border. A simple single crochet border in one of your yarn colors brings the whole piece together neatly. For something more decorative, try a shell stitch border or a classic picot edging.
Use it in the round. With a few modifications, you can work this stitch continuously in the round, which is perfect for hats, baskets, or cylindrical bags. The key adjustment is to chain one and join rather than turning at the end of each round.
Project Ideas for the Striped Eyelet Stitch
Now that you know the stitch, let’s talk about all the things you can make with it.
Summer Wrap or Shawl: Work the striped eyelet stitch in a light linen or cotton yarn for a breezy wrap that pairs beautifully with a sundress. Choose a wide rectangular shape and add a simple fringe border along the short ends.
Baby Blanket: This stitch is a favorite for baby blankets because the lacy texture is visually engaging without creating gaps large enough to catch little fingers or toes. Work it in a soft, washable cotton blend and choose pastel colors for a classic nursery feel.
Table Runner: A table runner in natural cotton with crisp color contrast — think white and terracotta, or navy and cream — gives your dining table a handcrafted look that photographs beautifully.
Market or Beach Bag: Work the stitch in a sturdy cotton rope yarn for a bag that’s both functional and stylish. The eyelets add visual interest without sacrificing structure, especially if you use a tighter gauge.
Dishcloths and Kitchen Towels: Small, quick projects like dishcloths are a great way to practice the stitch before committing to something larger. Use a 100% cotton yarn for absorbency and durability.
Infinity Scarf: Work a long rectangle and seam the ends together for an effortless infinity scarf that shows off the stripe-and-lace combination in a wearable, cozy way.
Troubleshooting Common Mistakes
Even experienced crocheters run into hiccups when learning a new stitch. Here are the most common issues with the striped eyelet stitch and how to fix them.
Stitch count keeps decreasing: This almost always means you’re not working into the chain-one spaces on your dense rows. Remember, every chain-one space is a stitch placeholder. Insert your hook into the space, not around the chain, to complete your double crochet there.
Rows are getting wider: Check that you’re not accidentally working into your turning chain at the beginning of each row in addition to working into it at the end of the previous row. The turning chain is meant to replace one stitch, not add to your count.
Eyelets are uneven or inconsistent: Tension is usually the culprit. Try to keep your chain-ones relaxed and even. If you have a habit of pulling chains too tightly, your eyelets will look pinched. Practice making your chains slightly looser than feels natural until your tension evens out.
Color stripes are blurry or unclear: This is often a yarn choice issue. If your yarn is too fuzzy or the two colors don’t have enough contrast, the stripe effect won’t read clearly. Swap to a smoother yarn or choose colors that are further apart in value (light vs. dark).
Curling at the edges: Some curling is normal when working in rows, especially in the early stages of a project. Blocking your finished piece will solve most curling issues. If your project curls severely during the working process, try adding a border of single crochets along the sides as you go to stabilize the edges.
Blocking Your Finished Piece
Blocking is the step many crocheters skip, but it makes a dramatic difference with lacy stitches like this one. Blocking opens up the eyelets, evens out the tension across the whole piece, and gives the fabric that polished, professional finish you see in pattern photos.
For cotton or linen yarn, wet blocking works best. Soak your finished piece in cool water for about 20 minutes, then gently squeeze out the water (never wring), roll it in a clean towel to remove more moisture, and lay it flat on a blocking mat. Use rust-proof pins to shape the piece to your desired dimensions and let it dry completely — usually overnight.
For wool or wool-blend yarns, steam blocking is effective. Hover a steam iron a few inches above the surface of your piece without pressing down, then gently pin and shape while the fibers are warm and relaxed.
Acrylic yarns respond best to “killing” with steam for a permanent, draping block, but proceed carefully — too much heat will flatten the texture and can’t be reversed.
Final Thoughts
The striped eyelet stitch is one of those patterns that earns its place in your permanent repertoire. It’s light without being flimsy, patterned without being fussy, and colorful without requiring any complicated color work technique. The rhythm of the two-row repeat is meditative and satisfying, and the finished fabric has a handmade quality that feels genuinely special.
Whether you’re picking up a hook for the first time after mastering the basics or you’re a seasoned crocheter looking for a fresh project to work up on a lazy afternoon, this stitch delivers. Take your time with the first couple of repeats, trust your tension to even out as you go, and don’t skip the blocking step at the end — the difference it makes to the final look is remarkable.
Grab your favorite two skeins of yarn, find a comfortable seat, and give yourself permission to enjoy the process. The striped eyelet stitch has a way of making even a simple swatch feel like something worth keeping.
